Body
March 11, 2010
Posted by Summar
As head dermatologist of research and development for science-driven skincare brand Dermophisiologique since 1998, Carolina Redaelli has patented seven molecules for products of topical use. After receiving her Bachelors in Medicine and Surgery at the University of Milan, she specialized in dermatology and completed postgraduate work at the Agora’ School of Aesthetic Medicine. She has lectured at Ecole Dynamique in scientific and medical training and serves as a freelance researcher in the dermocosmetic field. I spoke with the doctor on her work with Dermophisiologique (of which we’ve most recently reviewed and recommended the brand’s Cleansing Milk and Xomega Body Cream) to create products that restore the skin’s natural physiology and incorporate chemicals that benefit – rather than harm – the epidermis.
Could you tell me a little bit of why, how and when the company began? Read more...
March 9, 2010
Posted by marta
I have been seeing double recently. So have some of our readers – especially the eagle-eyed Kim and Joan. We have been finding products with exactly the same formulas made by completely different companies. Often the only thing that is different is the price and that can be vary by as much as 100% or even 300%. I got the double vision thing only the other day when I started to test the new Nutra-Lift Lash Renue ($49 at the TIA shop) and began to think there was something very familiar about it. Sure enough, it was a nearly identical twin of Cilea ($69.99). Read more...
February 8, 2010
Posted by marta
A new study has found that exposure to phthalates, chemicals used in perfumes, nail varnish and plastics, at the prenatal stage can affect development and behavior in children.
Phthalates are part of a group of chemicals known as endocrine disruptors, that interfere with the body’s endocrine, or hormone system. They are a family of compounds found in a wide range of consumer products such as nail polishes, to increase their durability and reduce chips, and in cosmetics, perfumes, lotions and shampoos, to carry fragrance. Other phthalates are used to increase the flexibility and durability of plastics such as PVC, or included as coatings on medications or nutritional supplements to make them timed-release. Read more...
January 29, 2010
Posted by marta
Most of us tend to assume that “alcohol” in cosmetics does not translate to happy hour. On the contrary, we might expect dry, irritated skin if we use a cosmetic product with alcohol. A few weeks ago, our anti-alcohol prejudice got a bit of a jolt when we spotted alcohol in Amala’s products. How could this be, given Amala’s wholesome, organic brand positioning? I have also noticed alcohol high up the ingredients list of another natural brand, Weleda.
Amala told us that they haven’t figured out a way of excluding alcohol from their formulations and that they use a gentle form derived from wheat. In fact, there are “good” alcohols and “bad” ones. So which group does wheat derived alcohol fall into?
In benign form alcohols are glycols used as humectants that help deliver ingredients into skin. When fats and oils (see fatty acid) are chemically reduced, they become a group of less-dense alcohols called fatty alcohols that can have emollient properties or can become detergent cleansing agents. Read more...
January 26, 2010
Posted by marta
An ingredient called phospholipids has started turning up in skincare (John Masters Organics vit C serum) and even haircare (Nioxin). When I found it in Trillium Organic’s body scrub the other day, I was forced to admit that I didn’t know much about it except that it is in cell membranes and the name (perhaps its the association with phosphorous) makes me think of fire flies. This didn’t help me understand what its roles in skincare would be. It tuns out they are multifarious, from keeping oils and water in potions mixed together and, on our skins, as a complex protective barrier.
Phospholipids are comprised of two types of fatty acid. That puts them in the lipid family, a broad group of naturally-occurring molecules which includes fats, waxes, sterols, fat-soluble vitamins (such as vitamins A, D, E and K). The main biological functions of lipids include energy storage, as structural components of cell membranes, and as important signaling molecules. Read more...
