I am so happy to be doing my second review from the land downunder where we have most of the world’s 10 most venous snakes. So it certainly seems fitting that I be reviewing a new cream by Aussie company Eclogite called Viper Milk; is it as deadly? Let’s see..

I found my new Viper Milk packaged 50ml shiny gold airless pump which seemed very luxurious indeed, and as this cream retails at $200 AUS it really is a luxury! The only thing to be prepared for is that the cream is dispensed not only as you press the pump down but also on the way up which can lead to a lot of wasted product which in my case happened quite frequently.

Eclogite have made some very impressive claims about Viper Milk on their website. Here’s a sample so that you can see why I was so interested in this product:

“How To Have 50% fewer wrinkles in just under 10 minutes…We have discovered four active ingredients which dramatically reduce the appearance of wrinkles… Two of these ingredients are exclusive to us, nobody else in Australia has them.”

At first glance at the ingredient list of Viper Milk, I was worried about the two silicone type things being high on the list. So I emailed Marta and learned that these are fillers that aren’t exactly great, but will make you skin soft. The inclusion of sodium benzoate is the only concern.  Viper Milk has some impressive muscle relaxer type ingredients, such as GABA, that need to be in a highish concentration for them to do much. It also has other ingredients that support collagen which all sounded pretty good to me.

The cream itself goes on a little slippery,  so a little goes a long way  and  a minute after putting it on  I felt tingles of activity and a little pink flush which subsided quickly.  Then I waited the 10 minutes hoping that the next time I looked in the mirror I would see my 21 year old complexion instead of my 31 years. I then took my first peek to find that … alas no … but WOW! I did look fresher! Really! I could not believe it so I was equally surprised when it had the same effect on day two.

The verdict-

After my month long trial I would have to say that Viper Milk didn’t make me look 10 years younger but it did make me look younger. My skin looked better and my pores seemed less noticeable and my skin felt soft and smooth. I didn’t notice any spike in my rate of breakout using Viper Milk which I was kind of surprised about for a product that feels so active. I’m unsure as to how much the muscle relaxers worked and what long term effect these could have on the formation of expression lines but there is potential.  I really enjoyed putting this cream into my routine and would like to keep up the pricey Viper Milk habit; still I guess it’s cheaper than Botox.  I recommend giving Viper Milk a try and would love to hear if other people get the “wow effect” that I have experienced because I think this product would be worth some more testing.

My next Trial for the TIA community is Unscented 24 Hour Moisture Cream from another Aussie Band Called A’kin. Although this next cream is not really an anti ageing product I am looking forward to giving it a try.

Water, Cyclopentasiloxane & Polysilicone-11 &  Amino Butyric Acid & Barium Sulfate & Panax Ginseng Root Extract & Portulaca Oleracea Extract & Centella Asiatica Extract, Butylene Glycol & Ethoxydiglycol & Dimethylacrylamide/Acrylic Acid/Polystyrene Ethyl Methacrylate Copolymer & Palmitoyl Hexapeptide -14 & Lycium Barbarum Fruit Extract, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Cetearyl Alcohol &  Polysorbate 60, Glycerin & Water & Dipeptide Diaminobutroyl Benzylamide Diacetate, Gluconolactone, Whey Protein, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Benzoate, Sodium Citrate.

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Reviewed by Kerry

When Marta wrote “calling all 20-something’s and 30-something’s finally a brand that claims to aim to take you seriously” I was over the moon and typing my response in hope that I would be chosen to try FemmeScience Age Control ($54 US). Wow, I didn’t think I would get chosen because I live all the way in beautiful OZ!

The sad thing is I am reviewing this product purely for the American TIA community because FemmeScience does not ship outside the USA. For an Aussie Sheila (woman) with the early signs of aging this could be a bad thing. Let’s see…

FemmeScience focuses on addressing the concerns of the younger demographic; which is maintaining a youthful appearance.   I am 31 and have really been trying to look after my skin all my life but even with regular facials and all the lotions and potions; I have got my starter wrinkles. Now I am trying to test a product that that is supposed to stop or slow future aging. A hard thing to test! How can I tell if a serum I put on today will help my tomorrows? I was sceptical and thought that this could be the “fear marketing” that will have all us 20-30 something’s buying the product. So I tested for all the things I could see and feel.

As for my 20-30 something skin concerns, I am worried about my fine lines from expression and small amounts of pigmentation on my cheeks. I also worry about skin firmness and maintaining collagen. I have combination skin with an easily oily and congested t-zone.

As for the product it’s self, Marta has already placed a detailed description of the goodies and some possible badies contained in FemmeScience Age Control in her “Age Control dare to try it” May 9 2010 post.

On receiving FemmeScience Age Control, I eagerly opened the box to see a nicely packaged, 50ml pump pack which strangely had two lids as if to say “I am so powerful, hold me back!” or maybe the product suffers from oxidisation.  I expected Age Control to be more of a serum but it is a light unscented cream and goes on feeling like a moisturiser. Age control does not feel active and there were no tingles, it was quite soothing but because it felt like putting on a moisturiser  it seemed weird to  then put my moisturiser(Derma Radiant ,Anti Wrinkle Complex) over the top (there was ten minutes between application for Age control to work its magic).

A few days into the trial I started to have some queries about the product so I fired off an email to FemmeScience and waited… Then I fired off a second email and waited… finally, this was their response to my questions:-

Can the product be used around the eye area where “starter wrinkles” start?

We do not recommend using Age Control on the delicate eye area. FemmeScience has its Under Eye Renewal eye cream that was developed specifically to address starter wrinkles, fine lines and crows feet around and under the eye area.

What testing has been done to prove it is an effective product?

All of our products go through standard industry testing, as do all products, in order to determine whether the products deliver on their claims.

What research was referred to in the development of the formula?

The formula was developed with the highest-quality, industry-standard botanicals and ingredients that have track records of efficacy and benefits, and in concentrations that are effective.

Is Femme Science age control a standalone, effective product or does it have to be used in conjunction with your other products?

Yes, the product can be used apart from other FemmeScience products, in conjunction with other products that you might already have in your skincare routine. We do, however, recommend following it with the Night Cream because the formulas are complementary.

Will you be starting to offer shipping worldwide in the future?

We plan to be sold nationally and internationally, both online and in stores. Our goal is for the first of these developments to be completed by the end of this year.

Finally, there are people who worry about the inclusion of DMDM hydantoin and iodpropynyl butylcarbamate. Why do you include these particular ingredients and what do you feel about their safety for use in your skincare?

FemmeScience uses industry-standard ingredients that have been approved for use in skincare by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review. Both of those preservative ingredients have been approved safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel.

Ford-Carther, J (Corporate Communications Manager) ‘Company and product information please 2’, accessed June 2 2010

After having my questions answered I didn’t feel any more assured that FemmeScience Age Control was going to do what FemmeScience claimed; I really felt that they threw me the standard industry jargon. I also thought it was weird that the product claims to be for starter wrinkles but can’t be put near the eyes, I mean how many of us have our first signs of aging on our cheek? I was more inclined to keep faith that Marta thought that this was a good 20-30’s product to keep myself on the trial.

As the trial continued I noticed significant congestion even though I hadn’t changed my exfoliation (Cosmedix Blueberry Smoothie) routine at all, there were also a few more instances of breakout than is normal for me. I contacted Marta and she informed me that it could be due to the inclusion of cetearyl alcohol or laureth 7.

The Verdict-

At the end of the month long trial FemmeScience Age Control had a slight effect on skin tone by lightening the pigmentation on my cheeks but there were no remarkable effects to skin texture or firmness. The fine lines were still there but there weren’t any extra lines. Would I pay the $1.40 that it costs per millilitre? I am not sure; I liked the effect on pigmentation but I didn’t like the congestion, its back to the drawing board for me.

I am so pleased to also be announcing that I have just been given the OK by Marta to do another review for you all, and I am really excited because it is a brand new cream called Viper Milk by Eclogite (I think the name got me) what is in a name? Let’s see…

I feel privileged to be included in the TIA community all the way in OZ. Also a final thank you to Marta for taking steps to take the TIA shop global, I think you’re blood’s worth bottling!

Ingredients

Acqua purificata (purified water), caprylic/capric triglycerides, stearic acid, acetyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, curcuma longa root (turmeric) extract, camellia sinensis (green tea) extract, glycerin, ubiquinone (coq-10), niacinamide, soya sterol, beta glucan, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (vitamin c), retinol (vitamin a), polyacrylamide, persea gratissima (avocado) extract, butylene glycol, c13-14 isoparaffin, hyaluronic acid, carbomer, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 60, lecithin, carnitine, laureth-7, propylene glycol, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, thioctic (alpha lipoic) acid, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin e), dmdm hydantoin, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate

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Tomorrow (June 17^th) the lovely Kardashian sisters will launch their new skincare line, PerfectSkin. I took a sneak preview to see if the products live up to the claims likely to be made in the barrage of infomercials.

Behind PerfectSkin is the inevitable scientific expert. Oddly, given that the Kardashians don’t have hair care products in their line, they have teamed up with one Dr Ron Disilvo, a chemist who has worked for coiffing companies, Redken and John Paul Mitchell.

The formulations themselves are not outstanding but certainly pass muster with a handful of botanicals with good pedigrees. Actually, I’d say they have gone out of their way to make flagship product, Repair and Protect, look very appealing  with just a few silicones and other fillers. The rest, especially and mask and the toner, are rather overpowered by harsh preservatives.

Of course, the Kardashian girls have a revolutionary new ingredient: “a newly discovered exotic plant enzyme, OGG-1 (8-oxo-guanine DNA glycosylase)”.  In humans OGG-1 has been widely researched and is recognized as an important antioxidant that repairs a specific kind of mutated lesion in DNA that is caused by free radical damage. However, studies on OGG-1 are somewhat contradictory. Research on mice lacking in OGG-1 found that they lived a perfectly normal lifespan. Whilst, Australian skin cancer researchers tentatively concluded that a weak presence of OGG-1 “may lead to a lack of DNA repair”.

PerfectSkin isn’t the only skincare company to feature OGG-1. It is also used by Remergent, whose clinical trials claim that “the delivery of this enzyme into fibroblasts increases the rate of repair of 8-oxo-G, and reduces mitochondrial toxicity”.

PerfectSkin doesn’t say from which “exotic” plant its OGG-1 is obtained from, but I suspect that it is arabidopsis thaliana. In 2005, French company claimed that it had cloned OGG-1 from this plant. Plus, I found another skincare company called Trivani that specifically says that it uses OGG-1 from arabidopsis thaliana in its Day Protection Serum.

Arabidopsis thaliana is a wee plant that is sometimes called mouse cress. In case you were wondering how it got involved in all this OGG-1 stuff, it turns out to be the have the smallest plant genome and was the first plant genome to be sequenced. Ironically, for something being associated with longevity by cosmetic companies, it has entire lifespan of only six weeks.

Should you be intrigued by PerfectSkin, be warned that it is one of those give them your credit card and get charged every 60 days numbers. The five piece set, which includes Repair & Protect, cleanser, toner, mask and eye cream, costs about $80 every two months. Having said that, there does seem to be a no fuss 60-day return and refund policy.

Ingredients in Repair & Protect

Water (Aqua), Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Trisiloxane, Limnanthes Alba (Meadowfoam) Seed Oil, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Squalane, Polysorbate 60, Panthenol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Retinyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid/Orange/Citrus Limon/Citrus Aurantifolia Polypeptides, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Hydrolyzed Myrtus Communis Leaf Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Symphytum Officinale Leaf Extract, Spirulina, Platensis Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Bioflavonoids, Lecithin, Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Flour, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Allantoin, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Chlorphenesin, Fragrance (Parfum)

Ingredients in Cleanse

Water (Aqua), Decyl Glucoside, Cocamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, PEG-150 Distearate, Glycerin, Sorbitol, Tocopheryl Acetate, Ascorbic Acid, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Fruit Extract, Butylene Glycol, Ulmus Fulva Bark Extract, Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract, Spirulina Platensis Extract, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Water, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Oil, Thioctic Acid, Disodium EDTA, Polysorbate 20, Citric Acid, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Fragrance (Parfum), Red 40 (CI 16035), Annato (CI 75120)

Ingredients in Toner

Water (Aqua), Glycerin, Kaolin, Cyclopentasiloxane, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Stearic Acid, Cetyl Alcohol, Titanium Dioxide, PEG-100 Stearate, Phospholipids, Retinyl Palmitate, Pantothenic Acid, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Argania Spinosa Leaf Extract, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Fragrance (Parfum), Blue 1 (CI 42090), Yellow 5 (CI 19140)

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“Perfect” is a subjective word. What I call perfect weather (cloudy with a cool breeze by day, thunderstorm at night) would make a summer beachgoer curse the sky. But a perfect complexion – now that’s something where we can all find some common ground…in the form of flawless, glowing, youthful skin. Is one product capable of delivering complexion perfection for all skin tones and types?

The only rotten egg is phenoxyethanol, which is surrounded by so much goodness that it’s hard to really scold. Overall, the formula dishes out delicious extracts and powerful actives with the best of them. As a carbon-neutral company committed to merging modern science with beneficial botanicals, Pure Skin Formulations succeeds in finding what’s best for the face.  “Perfect” may be pushing it, but the Perfecting Day Lotion definitely delivers.

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Between eating, drinking, talking, yawning, smiling, frowning, and every emotional expression in between, lips are probably the face’s most active part. Yet, I don’t typically consider the lips when calculating my skin’s cosmetic intake. I smear on whatever balm, stick, or gloss is stuffed in my purse or waiting on my bedside table.

When I wrote about my beauty regime before bedtime, a reader asked why I left out my lips. It’s a rather good question, considering that I physically cannot turn off the lights to go to sleep without first coating a layer of moisture on my lips. I do my homework before shopping for a lip product and try to spare my pout from unnatural nasties. I also play favorites, so much so that I could be accused of lip balm addiction. A new favorite has recently entered the rotation, making its way onto my lips day and night.

Lypsyl LypMoisturizer is my mouth’s flavor of the month. It is unique in more ways than its shape: an oblong stick with a large applicator head and a one-handed slider (in the form of a bumblebee). This vessel makes Lypsyl ideal for moisturizing on the go, with one hand holding a phone, bag, drink, etc. The balm glides on smoothly and conditions fully with a single swipe. There is little sheen and zero color, making Lypsyl a lovable moisturizer for dainty and manly lips alike. While the immediate effects include a slippery surface and a minty tingle, Lypsyl’s long-lasting hydration does not disappear from a mere lick of the lips. I could still feel its comforting presence a full hour after application.

What makes Lypsyl a superior lifeline for your lips? Encased in extremely thin, tender, vulnerable skin, the lips are low in melanin and prone to chapping. Lip cancer from sun damage is the single most common form of oral cancer. As the mouth’s gatekeepers, the lips pose a precarious entryway to the body, making safe ingredients a must. Lucky for lips, Lypsyl’s formula is loaded with hydrating components and therapeutic properties.

Organic shea butter, which is considered a Natural Moisturizing Factor, helps heal, soothe, and regenerate skin. Its moisturizing benefits are two-fold: Not only does it help the lips retain moisture by forming a barrier on the skin’s surface, but it also reduces the appearance of dry flakes on the skin. Swedish beeswax also protects by building a barrier over the lips, while coconut oil contributes additional moisture. An extract from the South American fruit shrub Bixa Orellana, endowed with various anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties, gives skin a “sunny” glow and may function as an antioxidant due to its high carotenoid content. Vitamins A and E heal cracked and irritated lip skin. Ceresin, a binding wax, holds it all together.

Nothing not to like on that list. However, the leading three ingredients (mineral oil, petrolatum, and paraffin) gave me pause, since they so starkly diverge from the rest of the all-natural formula. Mineral oil and petrolatum, or soft paraffin, are cheap petrochemical byproducts from oil production.  As such, they need to be refined. It is feared that some methods of production present hazardous, toxic, or carcinogenic components. But cosmetic-grade petrolatum and mineral oil must meet precise specifications requiring all contaminants to be removed.

The Environmental Working Group considers mineral oil, petrolatum, and paraffin to be low hazards. Ultimately, the specter of danger associated with these emollients is no match for their benefits. Mineral oil softens the skin by holding in water, while petrolatum essentially melts into the skin, filling in gaps in the lipid barrier and preventing skin from losing moisture to evaporation.

Lypsyl may not be for everyone. Nay-sayers might include organic purists, SPF sticklers, and alligator lips. But this lightweight drugstore balm is one of the best beauty buys on the market. At around $3, Lypsyl surpasses the conditioning power of more high-end lip moisturizers for only a fraction of the price. Lypsyl’s sleek glide and silky feel reminds me of Dr. Hauschka Lip Care Stick, which retails for about $14. Both deliver a soft, nourished pucker. But Lypsyl makes the experience more fun, less costly, and equally enjoyable.

Ingredients in Lypsyl Original Formula:
Mineral Oil, Petrolatum, Paraffin, Hydrogenated Coconut Oil, Ceresin, Beeswax (Apis Mellifera), Flavor, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Fruit (Organic), Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E Acetate), Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A Palmitate), Bixa Orellana Seed Extract

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by Kim

I think it’s important to have rituals, even if they are simple; a quiet morning coffee or tea, a nighttime stroll, a few sun salutations. For me, I happen to really love my beauty rituals. My bathroom is my little sanctuary, and pampering myself in small ways, every day, is a huge part of what makes me feel awesome. And when I say “feel awesome” I’m not just referring to my mood… I’ve become a pro at having super soft touchable skin. I’m going to share with you some of my absolute favorite beauty rituals that are guaranteed to help your skin (and your mood) feel amazing. Even if you just pick one or two of these rituals you will definitely see results – soft, nourished and most of all healthy skin.

Dry Brushing

Dry brushing is an old technique that helps to stimulate circulation and detoxify the skin – plus it feels  incredible! This is one of my all time favorite and effective skin healing techniques. It also helps with cellulite, removes dead skin, stimulates the lymphatic system, and helps with digestion. It’s great to do first thing in the morning before your shower. Basically, all you need is a soft natural brush (I use a boar brush). You want to use light pressure and always brush towards your heart, never away. Start with your feet, work up your legs, brush your entire back and abdomen area, chest, neck and shoulders. Then work from your hands up your arms. For a full and detailed description of dry brushing check out this site. Because dry brushing is so effective at removing dead skin cells, it can really help improve skin texture and cell renewal.

Extra Exfoliation

Marta turned me (and many of us) on to the Clarisonic Brush. This brush is great for any problems areas on the body, like little bumps on the back of your arms or legs. I use it in the shower, but you can also you it dry on dry skin as well (on the body, not the face!) It’s a bit pricey, but I have the Clarisonic Mia, which is less expensive.  And I happen to like the compact size a lot better than the regular model. Currently at Skinstore.com at 20% off.

Moisturizing

For soft supple skin, moisturizing key. Dry skin equals rough skin, and is also a big contributor to those little pesky pumps. However, I’ve found that super heavy creams can also be tricky. If your skin is too coated, it can’t breathe which can lead to clogged pores and rough skin (especially in the summer). My all-time favorite body moisturizer is Weleda Wild Rose Body Lotion. Although it’s quite light and has a very thin loose consistency, it does a phenomenal job of moisturizing. And smells divine! It sells for $23.00, but you can always find it at Luckyvitamin.com or vitacost.com for around $15.00.  It’s been a staple of mine for years. Another great, extremely pure, and slightly heavier body lotion is Ohhh Organic Coconut Lotion ($11.95). The six main simple ingredients are super nourishing for your skin: Organic Virgin Coconut Oil, Vitamin E, Organic Cocoa Butter, Macadamia nut oil, Kukui nut oil, Pineapple Extract. Take a few moments after your shower to slather on a little moisturizer. Your skin will love it.

Your Feet

I learned this trick from my mom, who learned it from Oprah, and it’s a great way to keep your feet nice and soft. I still recommend all the usuals – pumice stone or microplane, pedicures, etc. – but this trick really works, and is super cheap. Keep a little tub of Stridex or Oxypads by your bed.  At night, wipe your feed down with the pads. The salicylic acid breaks down the dead skin. And then put on a good thick foot cream. You are supposed to sleep with socks on as an extra seal, but I don’t.

Nutrition

As you’ve probably heard, your skin is your largest organ. Often times skin irritation is really just a symptom of an internal imbalance, and nutrition can play a huge role. Good healthy fats are critical for supple soft skin.  Fish oil is a phenomenal supplement with a whole host of benefits. It’s great for your blood, your joints, your brain and nervous system. And it does wonders for your skin. I take Dr. Mercola’s Krill Oil. Nordic Naturals also makes great fish oil (once again luckyvitamin and vitacost generally have the best deals). Flax seed oil is another great healthy fat for your skin.

Whatever your beauty rituals are, try to keep them all natural. There are so many toxins floating around our food and our air, its best not slather them on our skin.  In addition, if your beauty routine feels like a chore, back off from it. It should be a part of your day that you really enjoy… and the results will come much quicker!

Ingredients in Weleda body lotion

Water (Aqua), Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Alcohol, Glycerin, Rosa Moschata (Rosehip) Seed Oil, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glyceryl Linoleate, Calendula Officinalis Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Fragrance (Parfum)*, Rosa Damascena (Musk Rose) Flower Oil, Limonene*, Linalool*, Citronellol*, Benzyl Alcohol*, Geraniol*, Citral*, Eugenol*, Farnesol*, Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Distillate, Beeswax (Cera Flava), Sodium Beeswax, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Chondrus Crispu

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I typically endure an adolescent-grade acne breakout every few months, at a particular time of the month. The onslaught is sudden and inescapable. I have no choice but to wait out the storm with a tube of concealer on hand until it passes. The solitary zit, on the other hand, is much more frequent – and, fortunately – treatable.

When I detect the rumblings of a volcano under the skin’s surface, I need to be physically restrained from picking at my face. The urge to squeeze, extract, and pop is simply too great. But the consequences – redness and irritation at best, scarring and enlarged pores at worst- are definitely not worth it. I’ve found another way to nip a blemish in the bud, no picking involved.

Bremenn Research Labs Emergency Zit Stick is designed for the blemish that crops up at the worst time. It is not for chronic and pervasive acne, which would be better treated by a comprehensive anti-acne program like a cleanser, mask, and toner system – or even medication. Rather, the Emergency Zit Stick is a spot treatment intended to instantly heal and clear the affected area surrounding a blemish. Housed in a travel-friendly orange tube with a spongey applicator, the concentrated solution is a white emollient that becomes transparent once dabbed onto skin.

Most zit zappers work by driving out acne bacteria and drying out their home base, making an inhospitable environment for more growth. Though the Emergency Zit Stick also kicks bacteria to the curb, the formula puts more focus on healing and protecting than drying out the surrounding skin. Its texture is not cakey like many acne treatments, and its effects do not entail a wake of peeling skin. After only one overnight application, I awoke to find that a burgeoning blemish on my chin had been banished. For a more stubborn case on my forehead, I brought the Emergency Zit Stick with me and reapplied a small dot of solution a few times throughout the day. Completely clear skin was right around the corner.

Like most traditional acne treatments, the Emergency Zit Stick makes use of benzoyl peroxide, which blasts away acne-causing bacteria by sloughing off skin cells. Because it naturally dries and peels skin, benzoyl peroxide can be irritating, especially at concentrations higher than 5%. While many anti-acne products contain between 5% and 10% benzoyl peroxide (ProActiv Advanced Blemish Treatment, for example, has 6%), the Emergency Zit Stick sticks to a less drying but still effective 2.5%. The formula offsets its slight drying effect with a nourishing emollient base.

Shea butter, glycerin, squalane, and sodium hyaluronate are the formula’s moisturizing stand-outs. Lesser emollients include the coconut oil-derived caprylic/capric triglyceride, the fatty alcohol mixture cetearyl alcohol, the silicone caprylyl methicone, the thickening lubricant octyldodecanol, and the synthetic oil polyisobutene. Though it seems counter-intuitive to coat so many creamy or oily components over a blemish, keep in mind that the Emergency Zit Stick is meant to be dabbed on targeted spots. It is not for spreading over the entire face, which might pose a problem for acne-prone skin. I would have expected additional breakouts around my initial blemish if the emollients in the formula clogged my pores. Instead, my highly sensitive skin looked more moisturized and less irritated than it usually does following an anti-acne treatment.

In addition to an antibacterial agent and soothing moisturizers, the formula incorporates other anti-acne benefits. Boerhavia Diffusa, a plant native to India, delivers both antiviral and anti-inflammatory properties. A new plant to me, Bakuchiol, is endowed with excellent anti-microbial powers. Often found in mouthwash formulas, this extract can be equally effective on blemishes. Likewise, caprylyl glycol is a humectant that doubles as an anti-microbial. An extract from the prickly pear cactus is a potent antioxidant, which may help lessen irritation inflicted by benzoyl peroxide. Allantoin and bisabolol are known natural anti-irritants. Lastly, there’s a small amount of vitamin E, believed to naturally protect against the sun’s UV rays. Overall, these ingredients help to reduce the redness and swelling that usually accompany a blemish, while copolymers form a thin layer that smooths the surface and creates an effortless canvas for concealer.

Some caveats: I don’t think the Emergency Zit Stick would be the best choice for oily skin, since its aforementioned moisturizing base would not be necessary, nor necessarily welcome. Although Bremenn Research Labs eschews parabens, the main preservatives - phenoxyethanol, disodium EDTA, sodium benzoate – are not exactly benign. Additionally, the emulsifier oleth-10 and the pH adjuster sodium hydroxide are potential irritants. Despite these suspect synthetics, the whole is greater than its parts, proving to make emergency blemishes disappear – without a trace – within a couple of days. I have not personally found a zit zapper so compatible with my (dry/sensitive) skin, though around $20 seems rather high for a .12 oz. mixed bag of ingredients.

Active Ingredient: Benzoyl Peroxide 2.5%
Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Butylene Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Steareth-2, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Oleth-10, Octyldodecanol, Hydroxyethyl Behenamidopropyl Dimonium Chloride, Caprylyl Methicone, Bakuchiol, Hydrolyzed Opuntia Ficus-Indica Flower Extract, Boerhavia Diffusa Root Extract, Allantoin, Sodium Hyaluronate, Dicetyl Phosphate, C18-21 Alkane, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Caprylyl Glycol, Behenyl Alcohol, Xanthan Gum, Glyceryl Acrylate/ Acrylic Acid Copolymer, Squalane, Ethylhexylglycerin, Polysorbate 60, Polyisobutene, Ceteth-10 Phosphate, Disodium EDTA, Bisabolol, PVM/MA Copolymer, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Hydroxide, Magnesium Aluminum Silicate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Sodium Benzoate, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891).

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By Copley

Some nights I am too worn out to do much more than rinse off my makeup, brush my teeth, and pop in my mouth guard (yes, I’m a grinder). But on nights when I have the energy and time (at least 20 minutes) to make nice with the bathroom mirror, I try to do a thorough job, leaving no inch of my face uncovered and no beauty duty neglected. Years of testing products for TIA have spawned a cosmetic graveyard of dusty jars and near-empty bottles. Only the best survive, compelling me to replace them after running low. It’s a Darwinian world in my medicine cabinet.

You’ve got to admit that it is awfully tempting to pile layer upon layer of products at night, since it doesn’t matter what you look like in the dark. But I have boiled my beauty regime down to a science, sticking to tried and true treatments instead of experimental overkill. Before washing the day’s sunscreen, makeup, and grime off my face, I don my trusted Tassi to avoid soaking my hairline. When I occasionally go to bed with wet hair, I leave the Tassi on to soak up the remaining moisture like a towel and act as a barrier for my memory foam pillow.

I alternate among three different cleansers depending on the condition of my complexion. If my skin is feeling dry, I use Olive’s Organic Botanicals Facial Replenisher Cleanser, a nourishing oil-based blend of organic botanicals. If it’s looking dull, I rely on Bambola Beauty’s Volcanic Mineral Scrub to stimulate my skin cells without stripping them. If I intend to apply a lightening solution or serum, I start with Mango Madness Skincare Exfoliate Me, a 10% glycolic cleanser that offsets its exfoliating effects with natural emollients like olive oil and rose hip seed oil. Lastly, I erase stubborn smudges of mascara with Eminence Organics Herbal Eye Makeup Remover. Its gentle formula, make up of soothing anti-inflammatory extracts, is ideal for sensitive skin, and its removing power is strong enough for even waterproof makeup.

Once my eye area is naked, I never cover it under my face mask without first putting on a few strategic products. A rich eye cream is a must, but finding one that doesn’t irritate my hypersensitive under-eye skin is easier said than done. I generally avoid gels, since they tend to make my skin feel tight, sticky, and thirsty. Two of my favorite eye moisturizers for nighttime are L’uvalla Eye/Lip Anti-Wrinkle Cream (which is 99% organic) and Nurture My Body Eye Cream (available in the TIA Shop). Both of these products deeply hydrate while enveloping weary eyes with calming essential oils. Their power to lull my eyes to sleep has given me a renewed appreciation for aromatherapy. And I like to think that their anti-aging benefits have helped delay the onset of crow’s feet, or at least the kind that are obvious sans smiling.

I have smaller than average eyes with sort of droopy eyelids, as much as it pains me to admit. I’m currently testing a product by Bremenn Research Labs called Upper Eyelid Lifter in the hopes that my lids can get a boost (without a needle). So far, my lids haven’t shown the slightest lift, but I will certainly report back if I start to see real results. Since giving up on Revitalash for fear of waking up one day with mud in my baby blues, I have been rather half-hearted with my trials of alternative eyelash growth products. Though I’ve fought hard to fall in love with Tarte MultiplEye Natural Lash Enhancer for its safe-sounding formula (and lack of prostaglandin analogs), I frequently have to hold back tears when the stinging solution comes into contact with my eyes. My quest for long, luscious lashes continues.

Growing up in Florida left lasting reminders of the importance of sunscreen. Joining the faint freckles that have dotted my nose and cheeks since awkward grade school yearbook photos, brand-new sun spots have begun to congregate on my forehead and temples. It took over ten years for me to embrace my freckles, so it should come as no surprise that these sudden beacons of hyperpigmentation are unwelcome. Without a single drop of hydroquinone, PrescribedSolutions A Bolt of Lightening has helped a great deal in minimizing the sneaky sun spots along my hairline. For larger constellations, I spread on Lumixyl Topical Brightening Creme, which gradually evens out skin tone and fades discolorations thanks to the combined efforts of licorice root extract, Phenylethyl Resorcinol, and a synthetic peptide. It also doubles as a pretty decent moisturizer. However, nighttime is when I bring out the moisturizing big guns – my skin’s Super Soakers, if you will.

Run-of-the-mill face lotions do not cut it as an overnight treatment in my book. My latest and greatest beauty-on-a-budget find is Lather AHA Facial Therapy, a minty green night cream that instantly quenches thirsty skin. Its blend of copper gluconate, lactic acid, green coffee extract, gingko biloba extract, borage seed oil, and carrot seed oil bring about a gloriously healthy glow come morning. These heavy-hitting ingredients manage to simultaneously improve texture, stimulate blood flow, and boost collagen synthesis. An even richer cream than Lather is Bambola Beauty Revitalizing Liposome Moisturizer, a pink-hued, antioxidant-flavored smoothie for the face. I simply can’t get enough of this wholesome cream and its yummy scent. Like Bambola, Skin2Skin Anti-Wrinkle Night Recovery loads up on organic extracts and vitamins, which are further supplemented by advanced anti-agers. Also like Bambola, this cream smells good enough to lick – not unlike a fresh soft pretzel. No matter which of these creams I reach for, I rest assured that my skin will get the royal treatment while I catch up on zzz’s.

For some extra oomph in my nightly beauty ritual, I use a facial mask targeted at my skin’s status. Teava’s Rehydrate Facial Treatment Mask draws on kaolin clay to extract waste materials from the skin and stimulate blood circulation. Teava is excellent as a quick fix for flaking and dullness, but nothing beats gloTherapeutics gloConditioning Restorative Mask to thoroughly replenish moisture and radiance. Even though it functions perfectly well as an anti-aging mask, I prefer to leave it on instead of removing before bed so that it can work its magic all night. I’m still trying to train myself to stay positioned on my back so that the mask doesn’t transfer to my pillow.

Thanks in part to an a.m. coffee habit I can’t seem to kick, my teeth have seen brighter days. If I get really ambitious about achieving a sparkling smile (such as for an important upcoming event), I will devote two full weeks to a Target Whitening Wraps regime. After applying the wraps every night for just 30 minutes, I see a noticeable difference in the shade of my teeth. I’ve learned the hard way not to exceed 30 minutes, since sensitive gums are painfully inevitable. To tackle individual stains in the grooves of my teeth, I follow up my two-minute electric Oral-B brushing with Supersmile Whitening Toothpaste (in my favorite flavor- Icy Mint). Afterward, my teeth seem more polished (due to sodium bicarbonate), protected (from attack by bacteria), and sparkling. Specific stains fade within a week, and my oral hygiene appreciates the added step. All in all, it may seem like a lot of work at the end of a long day, but it’s so worth it when I can genuinely smile at my own reflection the next morning.

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Calling all 20-somethings and 30-somethings! Finally a brand that claims to aim to take you seriously. You are so beyond Clinique and Bliss and marketing over content. You get the green thing and natural options like Aveda and Amala, but are they really providing you with the best possible blockades against future aging. Then there’s all those anti-wrinkle miracle ingredients aimed at the boomers with skin that needs repair over prevention. What’s a young person to do? Enter Femme Science.

This Miami-based new company saw you and saw an opportunity saying: “Recognizing that among dozens of choices, there were virtually no skincare lines that addressed this audience, FemmeScience was founded to provide a scientifically developed line for youthful skin.” I think Femme Science is right. There is a big gap in the market and I struggle a little to give 20 and 30-somethings product advice when so much of the new breakthroughs have focused on repair rather than prevention.

I have before me Femme Science Age Control ($54). It seems to be a fairly intelligent formulation that covers most bases and doesn’t get distracted by too many fillers. Top of the actives are two peptides, acetyl hexapeptide – which is believed to inhibit the release of neurotransmitters and relax the facial muscles- thus reducing expression lines and wrinkles – and palmitoyl oligopeptide, known as collagen builder Matrixyl. Yin and yang-like the roles are complimentary: the first may prevent future wrinkles, the second ensures good skin going forward.

For 20 and 30-something skins, antioxidants are important (see our antioxidant picks for 30-somethings) as is tackling the first signs of skin dullness (see our regimen for 30-somethings). So I was pleased to see multitasking turmeric. This is an important antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, soother of irritations and skin whitener. Curcumin is thought to be the primary pharmacological agent in turmeric. The research is a bit patchy and most of it has been conducted on animals. However, in some studies, curcumin’s anti-inflammatory effects have been shown to be comparable to the potent drugs such as hydrocortisone. In a report in Medical News, one company claims that turmeric’s skin whitening potency is four times greater than that of the conventional cosmetic whitener, arbutin.

Femme Science Age Control also has ubiquinone. Also called CoQ10, this naturally decreases with aging. When applied topically, Ubiquinone is thought to penetrate the skin easily, and reduce free radical damage via its antioxidant properties. It is also been found to assist cells in building collagen and elastin, therefore reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Ubiquinone also has properties that allow it to prevent or reduce oxidative damage to tissues, and may be more effective than Vitamin E at preventing this damage.

With moisturizers (avocado and hyaluronic acid) and several vitamins, there’s plenty going on here (the only thing to be a bit wary of is DMDM hydantoin and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate). All that remains is to see what effect it has on starter wrinkles. For obvious reasons, I can’t test this one, so we need a 20 or 30-something reviewer. Only serious testers need apply and you must prepared to use for at least a month and report back to the TIA community with a detailed review. Leave a persuasive comment on this post and finger’s crossed we’ll pick you.

For more posts on skincare for the wrinkle starter wheels set, look under Face in the navigation bar and 20-something and 30-something categories in the pulldown menu.

Ingredients

Acqua purificata (purified water), caprylic/capric triglycerides, stearic acid, acetyl hexapeptide, palmitoyl oligopeptide, curcuma longa root (turmeric) extract, camellia sinensis (green tea) extract, glycerin, ubiquinone (coq-10), niacinamide, soya sterol, beta glucan, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (vitamin c), retinol (vitamin a), polyacrylamide, persea gratissima (avocado) extract, butylene glycol, c13-14 isoparaffin, hyaluronic acid, carbomer, polysorbate 20, polysorbate 60, lecithin, carnitine, laureth-7, propylene glycol, cetearyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate, thioctic (alpha lipoic) acid, tocopheryl acetate (vitamin e), dmdm hydantoin, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate

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Dr. Stuart H. Kaplan believes in his skincare line, so it’s not surprising that his bathroom cabinet is stocked full of it. The dermatologist of over 25 years says he’s found the key to combat aging by addressing a third component never addressed by a skincare line before: Natural Hormonal Progression. After realizing that most products only took chronological aging and environmental damage into account, and discovering a link between the decline of Hormone Replacement Therapy (due to its many dangers) and what he saw as a marked difference in women’s skin, Dr. Kaplan derived a formula to help women acquire those same benefits topically. The result: KaplanMD, a skincare line that uses a trio of estrogen mimicking ingredients (soy, black cohosh and grapeseed extract) to fight aging from the get-go. And by the get-go, Dr. Kaplan says as early as your 20s. We spoke with the dermatologist on the creation of his line, why he touts his products to both the young and menopausal set, and his argument on why men should be (and are) following suit.

I read that Kaplan MD was created in response to a study that linked Hormone Replacement Therapy to cardiovascular disease and cancer. Can you explain how you thought to create a skincare line in response to this?

In the early 2000s, the NIH came out with a study that said Hormone Replacement Therapy had a lot of dangers. Up until that time it was thought that women in their 40s and 50s who start menopause, there should be no problem in replacing the hormones the body is no longer producing. So they did a study and found that this was not correct, that there were dangers including certain types of breast cancer, heart disease, endocrine problems. Women stopped using HRT because of it.

At that time I saw a huge difference in skin – it made perfect sense because estrogen is important in making collagen for our skin strength, elastic tissue gives our skin flexibility, hyaluronic acid gives skin volume and maintains hydration and holds on to water. As the body stops making estrogen, the levels start going down gradually. So I thought that a product that mimics estrogen– applied topically gives people a vehicle to actually get those benefits.

You’ve been a dermatologist for 25 years, had you not seen a skincare line that did this before? And how long did it take to create the line?

There is no skincare line that does this – not just when I came out with this line – I’d researched it for about two years and still there hadn’t been. And no one has even mimicked it since. In terms of creation, it’s not easy to put 10 active ingredients in one product, you have to worry about all sorts of variables. In the end it took about 4 years to create, test and perfect the line.

My thought process was this: women would go to their spa or their doctor, and get one ingredient – let’s say glycolic acid. And then they’d get something else, one at a time. And then they are carrying bags of stuff. They put on 10 different products for this and this and this. I’m thinking ‘I take a multivitamin, but I don’t get each of the 31 vitamins and swallow them separately’. There is no way to use 10 different products and have time to do anything else. That was what we had to do with our line, create a vehicle that was powerful enough to hold all these active ingredients – and there’s a difference. If you are layering all those products on your skin, how effective is that? It makes a difference if there is only one product going on the same layer of your skin.

What is KaplanMD’s philosophy for skincare?

KaplanMD is based on my tagline, the 10-3-1 Concept: 10 active ingredients per product, to prevent and treat all three types of skin aging, in one concise and synergistic line. Each formula has the best ingredients so you get the benefits of a dozen products in just one. I call it a complete balanced diet for your skin. It is everything you are going to need.

What kind of science and/or trial and error went into formulating it?

I looked at the best ingredients that I could find. I wasn’t just looking for vitamin C but the best type of vitamin C. All of them have been tested by other third-party companies and by myself. I wanted to make it simple, a cleanser, a toner, a day cream, a night cream. So it was more fiddling with how to put all these ingredients in one. And they all have a Phytogenic triactive complex of soy, black cohosh and grapeseed extract. I spoke with endocrinologists and made sure soy and black cohosh would be compatible with grapeseed extract, which is a very powerful antioxidant. They worked well together, they fit in the microsphere, and they worked in conjunction with the other ingredients. The time released microsphere also doesn’t just dump the ingredient on your skin, it’s a slow release that has a longer benefit.  Of course there was a certain amount of trial and error. There has to be a little bit of sorting through and then once you’ve done that then you have to test it on patients.

Synergy is very important. When products have one active ingredient like glycolic acid, in order to improve the product they have to increase the concentration. The stronger it is, the benefits go up, but the irritation also goes up. For some reason the concept of balance has never been used in skincare. At a certain point loading up with one ingredient increases benefits but it also increases side effects. With our products, there are seven different antioxidants – so you get those benefits, but they also have very unique side effects that don’t overlap, they are working synergistically and they aren’t so high in concentration that you are seeing negative side effects.

Did you start off with the framework of your knowledge of dermatology?

I absolutely started off with my knowledge of dermatology – all this time I’ve been a doctor studying skin, and on top of that knowledge, you know a lot of the difference between what is fluff and what is not, and the overhyped products that don’t work. As a dermatologist I looked at the ingredients, starting from that base. Before my line came out, no one has been talking about HRT. The endocrine system is an important part of our body – how can it not affect our skin? There is no doubt – as a doctor – it was important to realize that our skin doesn’t just age chronologically. So it was a combination, I saw those women coming in with bags of stuff. As a scientist I have to go through the ingredients, test them, see if I can tweak it to be most effective, make sure it is cosmetically elegant. That’s why people like this line – patients with cancer that can’t take estrogen – this product helps them because it doesn’t have the dangers of taking internal estrogen.  And topically they are perfectly safe, and supported by doctors at UCLA and Memorial Sloan Kettering.

Are all your products geared specifically toward women or are they for men as well? In what age range?

Absolutely, this is not a menopause brand.  In speaking to endocrinologists – I’ve learned that the estrogen levels don’t start going down suddenly with menopause, but they gradually start decreasing in your 20s. It made sense to me then if we want to stop that slow deterioration, then there is a third component – natural hormonal progression – and it affects men and women, all races, due to a decrease in estrogen and a loss of elastic tissue, collagen and hyaluronic acid.  So you are seeing a change in your 30s and 40s that you didn’t see before in your 20s but was happening nonetheless.

Looking after your heart doesn’t begin at your first heart attack, if you want to prevent a heart attack you begin much earlier, so the same goes for your skin and these products. Men and women both have estrogen, the levels are different, but estrogen levels go down no matter the gender and estrogen affects elasticity. Collagen is like the framework that keeps our skin strong, elastic tissue gives bounce back. These changes affect men as much as women – men are just slow to adopt changes. Men weren’t getting Botox before, but now they are. So it really is a line for both genders, and it isn’t restricted to women of any age, either.

There are several doctors and researchers that say that estrogen mimicking ingredients and parabens can also lead to cancer. Do you agree with this premise, and if so, what makes an ingredient like black cohosh safe?

As far as estrogens mimicking ingredients, I totally disagree- there are people that specialize in cancer research that disagree, there’s no way that this product would be recommended among breast cancer patients and by oncologists. Black cohosh and soy are perfectly safe topically. There is a huge difference between something topical and internal. I do agree that if you were to ingest it – THAT would be dangerous. There are different ways medicines can be absorbed into the skin, some like a birth control patch are meant to penetrate the skin into the body. Others are just meant to stay in the skin and have systemic benefit. With KaplanMD products, by controlling the microsphere, figuring out the systemic absorbtion, and also time releasing it so there is prolonged benefit, that’s perfectly safe for the skin. I checked with doctors at UCLA and other cancer centers and they had given me the green light. I did my research and spoke to people that I thought were very educated. So I can’t disagree more – it is perfectly safe, to have a product – topically – and it is proven by oncologists who give it to patients that have already experienced cancer.

In regards to parabens, they have been around for 50 and 60 years. Parabens are natural preservatives of plants that help prevent bacteria. I think it more harmful to say you’d rather have a preservative that has no real research on it than one that has been around for years and that still has no direct link to cancer. Doctors will agree that parabens are safe. There has to be a preservative so the product doesn’t rot. The oncologist at UCLA says the study that has been done about parabens isn’t a controlled study, there is no cause and relationship, no link.

If you were to introduce someone to your skincare line with one product, which would it be?

That’s a hard question, because there made such few products that we tried to make each one unique in it of itself. It’s not like we have four different cleansers and five different eye creams. It is person specific. The number one reason that patients don’t get better when they go to the doctor is because they don’t use the medicines properly. So I would say to them, are you more of a day cream person or a night cream person? Are you the type of person that brushes your teeth two times a day? Because that tells me something. If you only do it once, than I’ll say the night cream. When I think of the night cream, I think reparative, so you are repairing the day’s damage. So I’d say the night cream.

Which product have the clients been raving about? What has people most excited?

For people in their 20s, glosses and plumpers are big. But, for the most part, it is the same thing as putting oil on your lip, it makes it shiny– but essentially it also accelerates and amplifies UV rays that are damaging. Plumpers normally irritate skin – your lip swells because of the allergic reaction. That kind of expansion and contraction will cause more wrinkles. So I looked into making a product that protected and has an SPF, and that has all the peptides. I looked at things that plumped and protected from the sun. The Lip 20 moisturizes, repairs and firms with those peptides, and the hyaluronic filling spheres smooth wrinkles and cause a natural fullness. And people like the container; it opens and closes automatically.  For people in their 40s it is more the night cream because that’s when people noticeably start to see that kind of damage.

What kind of products do you have in your bathroom cabinet right now?

I use my line – all the products in my line- people ask me how my skin looks so young. It would be foolish if I worked so hard to create this line and then not use it myself when I believe in it. So I have toothpaste, aspirin, dental floss and my skincare line in my cabinet right now.

Are there any new products coming out in the near future at KaplanMD?

We just came out with a scrub. A lot of women believe the harsher the scrub the better – I totally disagree. Microscopically, a harsh scrub will cause tears. So it is better to use a very fine scrub that you can use everyday than a harsh scrub that you can only use much less frequently. Our scrub has finely ground date seeds and jojoba esters, pineapple and papaya enzymes. We are also coming out with a mask very shortly.

Now that you’ve been in the business for years, what ingredients raise red flags for you when you are looking at skincare cosmetics?

I don’t want to be disparaging – but it’s not an ingredient in particular as much as a product that overpromises. I’d be weary of single ingredient products. A lot of times, alone it doesn’t do anything, but the company overpromises and says it does. So avoid products that overpromise, look to see who is making them – and who better than a dermatologist? And look for products that are going to treat all three types of aging. You want to start in your 20s and 30s.

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