Face: What is it?

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    Face

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    As head dermatologist of research and development for science-driven skincare brand Dermophisiologique since 1998, Carolina Redaelli has patented seven molecules for products of topical use. After receiving her Bachelors in Medicine and Surgery at the University of Milan, she specialized in dermatology and completed postgraduate work at the Agora’ School of Aesthetic Medicine. She has lectured at Ecole Dynamique in scientific and medical training and serves as a freelance researcher in the dermocosmetic field. I spoke with the doctor on her work with Dermophisiologique (of which we’ve most recently reviewed and recommended the brand’s Cleansing Milk and Xomega Body Cream) to create products that restore the skin’s natural physiology and incorporate chemicals that benefit – rather than harm – the epidermis.

    Could you tell me a little bit of why, how and when the company began?


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    Coffee addicts take note: The bean in your ritual cup of joe may perk you up on a daily basis, but the fruit of the coffea arabica plant could also shed years off your face with its potent antioxidant properties. We first touched on the benefits of coffee in cosmetics and the coffee berry in 2008, but the arrival of National Coffee Month brings us back to the caffeinated subject once again.  According to the Institute of Anti-Aging Research, coffee berry extract has potential anti-aging benefits in the skin because of it’s high concentration of polyphenols, and has shown significant improvements in dyschromia, fine lines, wrinkles and the overall appearance of the skin.


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    I have been seeing double recently. So have some of our readers – especially the eagle-eyed Kim and Joan. We have been finding products with exactly the same formulas made by completely different companies. Often the only thing that is different is the price and that can be vary by as much as 100% or even 300%. I got the double vision thing only the other day when I started to test the new Nutra-Lift Lash Renue ($49 at the TIA shop) and began to think there was something very familiar about it. Sure enough, it was a nearly identical twin of Cilea ($69.99).


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    I first came across retinaldehyde in Avene Retrinol. It is a relatively new form of retin A that is supposed to be stronger than most over the counter retinols as well as being gentler. I promptly forgot all about it until one of the TIA readers reminded me that Osmosis Boost ($52.09 in the TIA shop) has retinaldehyde.

    Retinol (retin-A) and retinyl palmatate are vitamin A and work on wrinkles and photodamaged skin by exfoliating the cells and encouraging new ones to form. Altough they work, they can be unbearably irritating for sensitive types. Retinaldehyde (retinal) can be converted by the body to either retinoic acid or retinol (which, in turn, can be converted to retinyl palmitate). Because of this metabolization, treating the skin with retinaldehyde could be effective, while reducing the side effects associated with heavy guns. That’s the theory anyway; but does it work in practice?


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    I recently found myself bumping into references to an amazing new breakthrough in antiaging skincare called Cynergy TK. Although there are plenty of phony blogs extorting its virtues, I couldn’t quite work out what it was. Then I noticed that some of the products featuring Cynergy TK seemed to hail from New Zealand. My thoughts went immediately to sheep. I hereby apologize to all Kiwis for such crude, stereotypical thinking, but it turned out that I was on to something. Cynergy TK is kinetin from sheep’s wool.

    Now, can sheep-derived kinetin really get rid of wrinkles, or is the New Zealand sheep marketing board just trying to pull the wool over my eyes?


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