Ingredients
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Lancome Genifique
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Ingredients
Aesculus hippocastanum
*horse chestnut, in cosmetics usually an extract from the seeds of the horse chestnut
Functions: Used as a toner and astringent as well as an anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and anti-cellulite agent. The ingredient is widely used in Europe for chronic venous insuffiency, hemorrhoids, post-operative edema and as a skin-clearing topical. Extracts from horse chestnut seeds contain saponins known as escin, which are anti-inflammatory compounds that have a gentle soapy feel. Escin reduces capillary fragility, which helps prevent the leakage of fluids into surrounding tissues that ultimately leads to swelling. They also interfere with the release of inflammatory mediators by decreasing white blood cell activation. One 2007 study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science indicated that the ingredient generates contraction forces in fibroblasts, rendering it a potent anti-aging ingredient. Aesculus hippocastanum can be found in moisturizers, cleansers, toners, scrubs, and aftershave lotions.
Alanine
* An amino acid
Functions:
Alanine is a non-essential amino acid that can be manufactured in the body, or obtained through dietary sources such as meat, seafood, eggs, fish, beans, nuts and seeds. It is one of the 20 proteinogenic amino acids, which are considered the building blocks of proteins (Wikipedia). It is used in a wide variety of cosmetics and personal care products as a skin conditioning agent, anti-static agent and masking ingredient, and as an amino acid, may combine with the epidermal cells to fill up creases, and thus provide the surface of your skin with a smoother appearance.
Alanine is FDA approved.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database rates Alanine as a low hazard ingredient, but notes large data gaps indicating a lack of available research. Alanine is “Classified as not expected to be potentially toxic or harmful,” and no studies were found that listed any negative side effects related to this ingredient.
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
* A thickener and emulsifier
Functions:
There is very little information available regarding Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, which is noted by the Cosmetics Database as a emulsion stabilizer and viscosity increasing agent. There is no scientific information about Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate and the compounds used to create this ingredient, although a book by John Woodruff entitled “Nature’s Way The Handbook of Skin Care,” notes that Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate absorbs sebum or oil, giving the skin a matte appearance and possibly increasing moisture.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database rates Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate as a low hazard ingredient, but notes 100% data gaps, indicating that there is no available research for this ingredient. No studies were found that listed negative side effects, although ammonium can be considered toxic in high concentrations, and may be a factor in this ingredient’s usage.
Recommended Products w/ Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate:
Babassuamidopropalkonium Chloride
* A hair conditioning agent
Functions:
There is very little information available regarding Babassuamidopropalkonium Chloride, which is used as a conditioning agent in a variety of hair care formulas; it also has anti-static properties. Babassuamidopropalkonium Chloride is derived from Babassu Oil, a vegetable oil extracted from the seeds of the babassu palm in the Amazon region of South America. Babssu Oil is considered non-drying, and is often found in cleansers and skin moisturizers. It is thought to be similar to coconut oil, and is often used as a substitute for it, according to Wikipedia. Babassu Oil contains numerous fatty acids, including lauric acid (a moisturizer in coconut oil and an acne fighter), myristic acid (a highly absorbent lubricant), palmitic acid (a foaming surfactant and sometimes emollient), and stearic acid (a fragrance ingredient and emulsifier). Because Babassuamidopropalkonium Chloride is formed from Babassu Oil, it is thought to share the properties of this compound, including its fatty acid benefits.
C13-14 Isoparaffin
* An emollient
Functions:
C13-14 Isoparaffin is a mixture of hydrocarbons (mineral oils) derived from petroleum, and is used in cosmetics and personal care products primarily as an emollient, and also considered a thickening agent or gelling ingredient (FaceProducts-Online). Little additional information is available regarding C13-14 Isoparaffin, and isoparaffins are simply defined as gelling or thickening agents; petroleum is a known moisturizer.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
However, petroleum can be contaminated with carcinogens and is blacklisted as an ingredient by the European Union. According to Marta’s post about Aquaphor and Petroleum Safety, “certain impurities may be in the petrolatum and they can cause allergies and even be a carcinogen. Cosmetics should use highly refined petroleum that has been cleaned of these impurities.”
