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Azulene
* A chamomile extract of unsaturated hydrocarbons.
Functions:
Mainly used as a blue coloring agent in cosmetics. However, it has also been shown to have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties. A wide spectrum of personal care products contain this ingredient, including bath products, cleansing products, hair products, and skin care products. Its skin soothing abilities also make it a frequent ingredient in calming gels and after-sun products for the face.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) has assessed that it can be safely used in cosmetic products not intended for use around the eye, or on the lips/mouth. However, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel concludes that there is insufficient data to support the complete safety of the ingredient and because studies have shown this ingredient to cause cellular mutation when exposed to sunlight, it is also not recommended to use with leave-on products.
Azelaic acid
* A dicarboxylic acid, naturally derived from wheat.
Functions:
Works as an anti-acne agent, bleaching agent, and to a lesser extent, as a treatment for Rosacea. It functions an anti-bacterial and keratolytic, meaning it returns any abnormal growths on the skin back to normal. For this reason, it is primarily used to clear up bacteria-infested acne, and prevent future outbreaks. Research has shown it to have similar acne-fighting effects as prescription strength Tretinoin, an ingredient notorious for yielding unfavorable side effects such as skin peeling, stinging, and dryness.
With respect to its skin lightening properties, one double-blind study, demonstrated a 20% Azelaic acid cream to yield 65% good or excellent result in just 24 weeks. Many regard it as a safer alternative to hydroquinone because it does not cause the usual skin irritation and sensitization associated with many other skin bleaching agents. Furthermore, more and more studies are pointing to its effectiveness in reducing the flushing, lesions, and inflammation common in many Rosacea patients.
Avobenzone
* A synthetic dibenzoylmethane derivative. Also known as Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane or Parsol 1789.
Functions:
An oil soluble sunscreen agent. Classified as a “chemical” sunscreen because it works by absorbing UV rays over a wide wavelength, and then converting them to less damaging infrared radiation (heat). It’s marketed as a “broad spectrum” sunscreen because of it protects the skin against the sun’s entire range of UVA rays. It is one of the few chemical sunscreen agents with comprehensive UV protection, and for this reason, used in a large majority on sun protection products. It is also used in cosmetic products to protect other ingredients from deteriorating under the sun.
Tests have revealed Avobenzone’s tendency to significantly degrade in light over time, lessening its sun protection capabilities. For this reason, most sunscreens containing the ingredient also include photo-stabilizing ingredients like octocrylene. A number of companies have developed technologies to help stabilize the ingredient (i.e. Helioplex™, Active Photo Barrier Complex™), however the full risks associated with long term use of Avobenzone have yet to be determined.
Atelocollagen
* The solubilization of collagen-a fibrous protein usually obtained from shark skin or cows.
Functions:
Works as a hydrating agent by holding in moisture. Also believed to have anti-aging abilities, such as softening & diminishing the appearance of fine lines/wrinkles. Used in a variety of products such as facial lotions/creams, anti-aging serums, eye creams, face masks, sunscreens and lip balms.
Collagen makes up 75% of the skin, and is what makes the skin strong, thick, supple, and smooth. As we age, our skin’s collagen production begins to progressively break down, and the result is more wrinkled and saggy looking skin. It is believed that stimulating collagen production can help reduce the appearance of wrinkles and improve our overall skin texture.
Astraxanthin
* A red carotenoid produced by algae. See post.
Functions:
A potent antioxidant, believed to be 100-500 times more powerful than the antioxidant Vitamin E. Unfortunately, very little research has been conducted to explore the effects of topically applied Astraxanthin. For the time being, most studies focus on its effectiveness as an oral supplement and its potential in treating neurological disorders like Parkinson’s and Alzheimer’s. Despite the lack of information on this ingredient, it can still be found in several skin care products such as anti-aging serums, lotions/creams, and eye treatments.
Recommended Products w/ Astraxanthin:
ABI Dermaceuticals Moisturizing Anti-oxidant, Nutra-Lift Rejuvenating Therapy, Nutra Luxe Men Only Daily Moisturizer
Aspergillus ferment
* A fungus/mold extract, obtained by the fermentation of Aspergillus.
Functions:
A skin lightening agent. Believed to inhibit the body’s tyrosinase activity, and over time reduce the skin’s melanin (discoloration) production and fade the appearance of hyper-pigmented spots. Some regard it as a more powerful and stable form of Kojic acid. For the most part, you can find Aspergillus ferment as an ingredient in skin care products targeted at lightening the skin, such as serums, fade gels, masks and creams/lotions.
In cosmetics, this ingredient is often combined with Aspidosperma quebracho, a bark extract of an Amazonian tree. On one hand, many believe this fungus combo to effectively detoxify and regenerate the skin. However, there is no research showing the combination of these two ingredients to have any effect on the skin.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate
* A form of Vitamin C, more specifically, the tetraester of ascorbic acid and isopalmitic acid. See post.
Functions:
Works as a powerful antioxidant and whitening agent, with both anti-acne and anti-aging capabilities. It’s a potent, oil soluble form of Vitamin C Ester. Like other forms of Vitamin C, it helps prevent cellular aging by inhibiting the cross-linking of collagen, oxidation of proteins, and lipid peroxidation. It also works synergistically with the antioxidant Vitamin E, and has demonstrated superior percutaneous absorption and stability. Many studies have confirmed the skin lightening, photo-protective, and hydrating effects it can have on the skin. It can be found in various skin care products such as anti-aging serums, eye treatments, skin lightening gels and lotions/creams.
Safety Measures/Side Effects
Unlike L-Ascorbic acid, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate will not exfoliate or irritate the skin. It is well tolerated by even the most sensitive skin types. Also unlike regular Vitamin C , it can be used in high doses, and for up to eighteen months without oxidizing.
Ascorbyl palmitate
* A non-acidic molecule made from ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and palmitic acid (fatty acid). Also known as Vitamin C Ester.
Functions:
A preservative with antioxidant properties, helping blend vitamins A, C & D into a suspension. It’s an effective collagen builder and free-radical scavenging ingredient essential to healthy skin. With the advantage of being lipid (fat) soluble, it can penetrate the skin and deliver antioxidants faster than the water soluble forms of Vitamin C. This, in turn, helps prevent cellular aging by inhibiting the cross-linking of collagen, oxidation of proteins, and lipid peroxidation. Furthermore, it’s been shown to work synergistically with the antioxidant Vitamin E. Studies have also show it to be more stable than L-ascorbic acid. As a preservative, it’s mainly used in makeup products, but recent discovery of its superior antioxidant properties has helped it become an active ingredient in a variety of skincare products such as suncreens, lotions/crèmes, anti-aging treatments and serums.
Argireline
* A neuropeptide. Also known as acetyl hexapeptide-3 or AH-3.
Functions:
Known for its muscle relaxing properties. It’s commonly referred to as “Botox in a jar” because it’s believed to inhibit the release of neurotransmitters and relax the facial muscles- thus reducing expression lines and wrinkles. Unfortunately, proof of the ingredient’s benefits is scarce. However, one study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science did show a 10% concentration of Argireline to reduce wrinkles by 30% over a 30-day period.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Because Argireline is a recently discovered ingredient within the skincare arena, very little is known regarding is safety and effectiveness. However, it should be noted that, unlike Botox, which targets specific muscles, Argireline (assuming it works) will relax all muscles of the face. Theoretically speaking, this could also lead to facial sagging because the neurotransmitter release that Argireline inhibits, is also known to maintain facial firmness. Thus, those concerned with facial sagging should approach this ingredient with caution.
Arginine
* An essential alkaline amino acid.
Functions:
A building block of proteins, it plays a pivotal role in cell division, the healing of wounds, protein synthesis, immune function, the release of hormones, and the production of growth hormone. The body uses it to manufacture nitrite oxide, which causes the blood vessels to relax, thereby increasing blood flow. Because it also increases the body’s fat burning & muscle building functions, coupled with the fact that the liver uses it to produce creatine, arginine is used as a key ingredient in various weight loss & muscle building shakes.
Argania Spinosa
*Argania Spinosa (Argan) oil, derived from the kernels of the Argan tree
Functions:
Indigenous only to southwestern Morocco, Argan oil is a hydrating oil comprised of essential fatty acids, including Omega oils linoleic acid and oleic acid, and tocopherol (vitamin E), a powerful antioxidant. These components of Argan oil serve as emollients, attracting and retaining hydration in the skin, and have potent anti-inflammatory properties. In one study in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, a control cream containing argan oil (along with saw palmetto and sesame seeds) proved effective for reducing sebum production in oily prone skin.
Argan oil is used in a number of cosmetic and personal care products, including facial moisturizer, eye cream, lipstick, blush, sunscreen, and mascara. Argan oil can also be used on its own as an acne treatment, scar treatment, anti-wrinkle treatment, face and body moisturizer, anti-frizz hair treatment, stretch mark treatment, and as a cuticle moisturizer.
Argan oil
* Derived from the seeds of the fruits of the Moroccan argan tree. Read TIA’s article “What is it: Argan oil” for more info.
Functions:
Recommended Products w/ argan oil:
Kaeline Skincare, Aveda Green Science Firming Face Cream ($55), Your Best Face Quench Lip Treatment ($15)
Arctium lappa
*burdock, obtained from the roots, seeds and leaves of the burdock plant
Functions: Used as a tonic, skin soother, emollient, antiseborrheic, and ointment for minor cuts and burns. Can also help protect against chronic tissue inflammation and at the same time stimulate the synthesis of connective tissues such as collagen. Studies show that it can improve the signs of aging skin. Used in conditioners, foundations, shampoos, styling gels, cleansers, acne treatments and eye creams.
Safety Measures/Side Effects: Arctium lappa has not been assessed by the CIR expert panel. However, cases show that allergic skin reactions (contact dermatitis) may occur in individuals with allergy to members of the Asteraceae/Compositae family, including ragweed, chrysanthemums, marigolds, and daisies.
Arbutin
* Glucosylated hydroquinone, derived from the leaves of fruits such as bearberry, pear and cranberry. See Alpha Arbutin.
Functions:
A natural skin lightening/whitening agent. It works by slowly releasing hydroquinone through hydrolysis, which in turn blocks Tyrosinase activity and reduces the skin’s melanin (pigmentation) production. In cosmetics, this ingredient appears in two different forms: Alpha-Arbutin or Beta-Arbutin. Due to patenting concerns, most skin care products contain plant extracts that contain Arbutin (e.g. bearberry, pear, blueberry), rather than pure Arbutin. Used in a variety of cosmetics, particularly ones aimed at lightening the skin such as lotions, crèmes, serums, cleansers, and spot treatments.
While most research strongly supports the ingredient’s ability to fade/lighten age spots and hyper-pigmentation, it is still unclear as to how much Arbutin it takes to inhibit melanin production. Overall, the general consensus is that it works as a skin lightening agent and seems to be a promising alternative to pure Hydroquinone.
Arachidonic acid
* An omega-6 fatty acid primarily found in red meat. Sometimes referred to as AA or ARA.
Functions:
Acts as a skin conditioning agent in cosmetics. It’s said to enhance the appearance of dry or damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness. This ingredient is contained in a variety of face, body and hand skin products like moisturizers, wrinkle smoothers, and night creams.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Arachidonic acid has been shown to produce redness and inflammation in the skin, and high doses have even led to skin ulcerations. However, formulations containing a concentration of .04% or less will not irritate the skin.
Apigenin
* A bioflavonoid found in leafy plants and vegetables (e.g. parsley, celery, chamomile, thyme).
Functions:
Shown to have multiple functions. Acts as an anti-inflammatory, anti-oxidant, anti-irritant, lightening agent, anticarcinogenic, and antiseptic. Used in a variety of skin care products, most often those containing the herbal extract of chamomile. Because it’s been shown to stimulate the blood vessels and encourage hair growth, it’s also incorporated into a variety of hair loss products.
Current research points towards Apigenin being a strong anti-cancer ingredient. It has demonstrated significant chemo-preventative activity against UV radiation, and the ability to reduce DNA oxidative damage. Studies have also shown it to inhibit melanoma growth and metastastic potential. Many even speculate it as an alternative sunscreen ingredient for humans. Current research overviews seem promising, though more is needed and underway.
Recommended Products w/ apigenin:
B Kamins Eyelash Fortifier, Dermaquest’s Dermalash Eyelash Growth Promoter Complex
Anthemis nobilis
Chamomile
Amyl Cinnamal
* An aldehyde, in the form of a pale liquid. Usually manufactured into synthetic form, though it does occur naturally in plants. Also known as alpha-amyl cinnamic aldehyde.
Functions:
A perfume ingredient whose main function is to add fragrance to a product. It has a floral scent reminiscent of jasmine. Used in bath products, shampoos, and various body & hand products.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
A well-known irritant, insomuch that it is one of 8 other ingredients in a fragrance mix specifically designed to detect contact allergies to fragrances. The European Cosmetics Directive has classified this ingredient as an “allergenic” substance. Furthermore, the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) Standard restricts the use of Amyl cinnamal in fragrances because of potential sensitization.
Amodimethicone Microemulsion
See trimethylsilylamodimethicon
Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate
* A thickener and emulsifier
Functions:
There is very little information available regarding Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate, which is noted by the Cosmetics Database as a emulsion stabilizer and viscosity increasing agent. There is no scientific information about Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate and the compounds used to create this ingredient, although a book by John Woodruff entitled “Nature’s Way The Handbook of Skin Care,” notes that Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate absorbs sebum or oil, giving the skin a matte appearance and possibly increasing moisture.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database rates Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate as a low hazard ingredient, but notes 100% data gaps, indicating that there is no available research for this ingredient. No studies were found that listed negative side effects, although ammonium can be considered toxic in high concentrations, and may be a factor in this ingredient’s usage.
Recommended Products w/ Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl Taurate:
Ammonium lauryl sulphate
* A surfactant. Also known as ammonium dodecyl sulfate.
Functions:
A foaming agent that makes solutions easier to spread over the face. It’s known for its ability to interrupt hydrogen bonding, the main contributor to the high surface tension of water. This surfactant also functions as an excellent cleansing agent because it helps water bind with the skin’s dirt and oil so that they can be washed away. It’s primarily used in shampoos, cleansers and bath products.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Ammonium lauryl sulphate is classified as an irritant at concentrations of 2% or higher, and the longer the ingredient stays in contact with the skin, the greater the chance of irritation. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has assessed this ingredient as safe to use in cosmetics, but only in formulations designed for brief use and followed by a thorough rinsing of the skin.
Ammonium hydroxide
* A solution of ammonia in water. Also known as aqueous ammonia.
Functions:
Acts as a pH adjuster. It’s used in a variety of cosmetics, particularly hair products like dyes, bleaching products and grooming products. When used in hair dyes, it helps the color properly diffuse into the hair shaft. In addition to hair dye, it can also be found in products such as facial moisturizer/lotion, anti-aging treatment, cleanserm sunscreen, acne treatment, exfoliant/scrub, mascara and skin fader/lightener.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Has been found to be irritating to the eyes and mucous membranes. The ATSDR’s Division of Toxicology reports that high levels of ammonia exposure are toxic to human beings. Even in dilute concentrations, ammonia is toxic for aquatic animals. For this reason, it has been classified as dangerous to the environment. The FDA affirmed it as Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) to used in products not exceeding good manufacturing practices. In addition, the Cosmetics Directive of the European Union has also determined it safe to use in cosmetics, but only in concentrations of 6% or lower.
Ammonium glycolate
* A synthetic form of glycolic acid (an alpha hydroxy acid or AHA).
Functions:
Works to exfoliate and adjust the PH balance of the skin. Like all other forms of glycolic acid, when Ammonium glycolate is applied, it weakens the bonds between the lipids and dead skin cells of the upper layer of the epidermis. As a result, the outer layer of skin dissolves away to reveal a younger and fresher layer of skin underneath. Its ability to penetrate and exfoliate the skin helps reduce the appearance of fine lines/wrinkles, discoloration, blemishes, and scars. As an exfoliant, it also evens out skin tone and enables the skin to more effectively absorb other ingredients. This is particularly beneficial when “feeding” the skin with powerful antioxidants and moisturizers.
As a PH adjuster, Ammonium glycolate is often used in conjunction with regular Glycolic Acid to maintain the PH levels needed for exfoliation. You can find this ingredient in a variety of face care products, especially cleansers, masks and lotions.
Ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate/VP copolymer
* A synthetic polymeric sulfonic acid. Also known as Aristoflex AVC.
Functions:
Acts as a gelling agent for aqueous solutions and as a thickener/stabilizer for oil in water solutions. It works over a wide PH, has a non-tacky feel, and is free of any hydrocarbon or solvents. It can be found in cosmetic products such as facial moisturizer/lotion, sunscreen, anti-aging treatment, facial masks, body lotion, tanning oil and DHA-based self-tanners.
Products w/ ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP copolymer:
Aminopropyl ascorbyl phosphates
* A stable, nonacidic, and penetrating form of Vitamin C (AKA L-Ascorbic Acid).
Functions:
A powerful antioxidant with many anti-aging benefits such as building collagen, defending the skin against free-radicals, healing inflammation, reducing the appearance of fine lines & wrinkles, and lightening discolorations. A relatively new derivative of Vitamin C, it’s preferred by many for having superior stability and effectiveness. It’s particularly lauded for reducing melanin production- the culprit behind age spots, Melasma and hyper-pigmentation. It’s also been shown to be more effective than water soluble Vitamin E in protecting against hydroxyl free radicals. It can be found in a variety of skin care products like serums, lotions, eye creams and, most especially, skin lightening products.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Aminopropane Sulfonic Acid 3
* A synthetic organic compound analogous to Taurine. Also known as Homotaurine.
Functions:
Its chemical structure closely resembles that of the neurotransmitter GABA. Thus, many believe that it has the ability to prevent wrinkles and facial sagging by inhibiting muscle movement. Because not enough studies have been conducted on this particular function, Aminopropane Sulfonic Acid 3 is used in only a select number of face creams. For the most part, it’s found in hair products that aim to combat hair loss and promote hair growth. Although it’s frequently administered to treat Alopecia, there lies very little evidence to support its effectiveness in treating hair loss.
Aminophyilline
* Pharmaceutical ingredient primarily used to treat emphysema & asthma.
Functions:
It functions as a bronchodilator by relaxing the bronchial muscles and facilitating airflow through the respiratory tract. With regards to cosmetics, Aminophyilline is used to treat cellulite because of its ability to break down fat cells into fatty acids. It’s mainly used as an active ingredient in “thigh creams,” but is sometimes even directly injected into areas with cellulite (AKA Mesotherapy).
Though it’s marketed as a “miracle” ingredient, proven to eliminate the unsightly dimples and bumps associated with cellulite, there is very little clinical evidence to support these claims. In fact, the first study to introduce Aminophylline as an effective combater against cellulite (published in the 1995 Nov issue of Obesity Research) was invalidated because of its small number of test subjects and lack of objectivity (one of the authors was selling an Aminophylline cream at the same time as the study).
Aminomethyl propanol
* An alkanolamine that comes in the form of either a colorless liquid or crystalline solid.
Functions:
Works to adjust PH levels. Found in a variety of hair and skincare products like lotions, creams, hair dyes, hairsprays and wave sets.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
It’s been shown to cause mild dermal irritation and sensitization. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel reviewed the safety of this ingredient and assessed that though Aminomethyl propanol is highly alkaline in its pure form, its negative effects are buffered once mixed into cosmetic products and diluted. Initially, the CIR restricted cosmetics to using Aminomethyl propanol only in concentrations of 1% or lower. Then in 2007, the CIR reevaluated it and reassessed it safe to use at concentrations up to 7%. It should be noted, however, that Aminomethyl propanol cannot be used in products containing secondary amines because it could cause harmful carcinogenic nitrosamines to form.
Aminoethylphosphonic acid
* A phosphonate that naturally occurs in plant and animal membranes. Also called Albatin.
Functions:
Primarily a chelating agent- it binds with metallic compounds and prevents them from contaminating and adhering to the skin. According to Dr. Brandt, it also functions as a lightening agent because it inhibits melanin (skin pigmentation) production by limiting the enzymatic activity of Tyrosinase. It may work synergistically with other skin lighteners, such as ascorbic acid.
Aminobutyric acid
Also known as GABA. See GAMMA- Aminobutyric acid.
Aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine
* An aluminum compound that also goes by the name Aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex gly.
Functions:
An anti-bacterial astringent that temporarily closes the pores and reduces the amount perspiration produced on the site of application. It also gets rid of unpleasant odors. Primarily used in deodorants and antiperspirants.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Many prefer Aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine over other types of aluminum salts because it’s much more tolerated by the skin and less likely to cause irritation. However, there are still toxicity concerns over airborne Aluminum compounds, which is why Europe has established tight restrictions over its use. The FDA, on the other hand, has reviewed the safety of this ingredient and approved it for use in OTC antiperspirant products.
Aluminum stearate
* Fine, white Aluminum salts that are produced using stearic acid.
Functions:
Acts as a viscosity (resistance to flow) moderator, suspending agent (keeps the oil and water parts of an emulsion from separating), and thickening agent. Mainly used in products that require viscosity stabilizers like cleansing gels, shampoos and lotions. Because of its ability to also suspend color, you can also find it in several makeup products like foundation and liquid eyeliner.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has assessed this ingredient as safe to use in cosmetic products, and states that the potential for dermal toxicity is very low. Studies have shown it to cause slight skin irritations, but only when used in very high doses.
Recommended Products w/Aluminum stearate:
Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate
* A complex carbohydrate made by plants.
Functions:
Acts as an anti-caking agent, a viscosity (resistance to flow) increasing agent, and an absorbent. Used in products like lotion, powder, and makeup, mainly for aesthetic purposes. For example, it can keep foundation from “caking†onto the skin, or lessen the greasy shine associated with certain lotions. It’s also been shown to enhance the SPF factor in several sunscreens. In fact, as little as 5% aluminum starch octenylsuccinate can increase the SPF of titanium dixiode by 40%.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has assessed this ingredient as safe to use in cosmetic products, provided that the already established limitations on certain heavy metal concentrations are not exceeded. Though aluminum is considered neurotoxic, studies have revealed no evidence of toxicity in aluminum starch octenylsuccinate.
Recommended Products w/ Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate:
Aluminum oxide
* A crystalline compound of Aluminum and Oxygen. Also known as Alumina.
Functions:
Primarily used as an abrasive and thickening agent, but also functions as an anti-caking agent and absorbent. It can be found in cosmetic products like blush, powder foundation, lipstick and facial cleanser. It also acts as an insoluble carrier for mineral pigment, and is frequently mixed into mineral powder makeup. Because of its abrasive texture, many use these crystals to exfoliate and resurface the skin-particularly with Microdermabrasion.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Aluminum Oxide does not penetrate the skin. Both the FDA and BDIH regard it as safe to use for cosmetic purposes. However, it must be noted that aluminum is a neurotoxin.
Recommended Products w/Aluminum oxide:
Aluminum hydroxide
* A stable form of aluminum.
Functions:
Acts as a skin protectant and opacifying (reduction of a clear/transparent appearance) agent in cosmetics. It’s used in an array of products including foundation, lipstick and moisturizer. Many sunscreens use aluminum hydroxide as a coating for titanium dioxide- it prevents it from clumping and allows for an even application. Rather than penetrating the skin, it forms a refractive layer that helps reflect UV rays away from the skin. In fact, an aluminum coating is recommended in the Guidelines for Natural Cosmetics of the BDIH.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Aluminum hydroxide is non- irritating and nontoxic when applied on the skin because it does not penetrate the epidermis. The FDA permits the use of this ingredient in OTC skin products (usually ones with an SPF). Aluminum hydroxide is not to be confused with the controversial Aluminum chlorohydrate, which is believed by many to cause cancer and Alzheimer’s disease. Yet it should be noted that both ingredients comprise of Aluminum-a proven neurotoxin.
Aluminum chlorohydrate
* A complex inorganic salt, formed by reacting aluminum with hydrochloric acid. See also Aluminum Oxide.
Functions:
Works by altering the pH balance of the skin and lessening the production of sweat. Mainly used in anti-perspirants and deodorants.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
This ingredient can irritate the skin, cause acne and aggravate razor burn for some people. Though there is no scientific evidence to support the idea, an overwhelming number of people believe that aluminum salts can lead to Breast Cancer and Alzheimer’s disease. In 2002, The National Cancer Institute stated that they could find no link between aluminum salts and breast cancer. However, studies have proven aluminum to be a neurotoxin that may disturb the blood-brain barrier’s function. Furthermore, The Risk Assessment Information System, sponsored by the US Dept of Energy, says that it “may be involved” in Alzheimer’s and Parkinsons.
Alumina
* A crystalline compound of Aluminum and Oxygen. See aluminum oxide.
Functions:
Primarily used as an abrasive and thickening agent, but also functions as an anti-caking agent and absorbent. It can be found in cosmetic products like blush, powder foundation, lipstick and facial cleanser. It also acts as an insoluble carrier for mineral pigment, and is frequently mixed into mineral powder makeup. Because of its abrasive texture, many use these crystals to exfoliate and resurface the skin-particularly with Microdermabrasion.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Aluminum Oxide does not penetrate the skin. Both the FDA and BDIH regard it as safe to use for cosmetic purposes. However, it must be noted that aluminum is a neurotoxin.
Recommended Products w/Aluminum oxide:
Althea officinalis
chapped skin
Marsh Mallow
Alteromonas Ferment
Water-binding
Marine bacteria
Little evidene to back up that it works
Alpha-isomethyl ionone
* A synthetic compound in the form of a colorless liquid.
Functions:
Used as a perfume. Adds fragrance to a variety of products including aftershave lotion, bubble baths, hair care products and moisturizers.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
It’s been known to irritate the skin and trigger allergic reactions for some people. After evaluating the potential side effects of Alpha-isomethyl Ionone, the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) banned the ingredient from being mixed into fragrance products (i.e. perfume, cologne). But you can still find this ingredient in a variety of other cosmetics that are not categorized as a “fragrance.”
Alpha arbutin
* A biosynthetic, super form of Arbutin, which derives from bearberry plants.
Functions:
Promotes lightening/whitening and an even skin tone. Works by inhibiting the body’s oxidation of Tyrosine, the culprit behind melanin production and its resulting hyper-pigmentation (brown spots). It’s been proven to be more stable and work faster than Beta Arbutin. Believed to eliminate Melasma & liver spots (age spots), inhibit tanning of the skin after sun exposure, and brighten the overall appearance of the skin.
Recommended Products w/Alpha Arbutin:
Your Best Face Restore, MD Skincare Lift & Lighten Eye Cream ($58), NIA 24
Allantoin
* A chemical compound that comes from the extracts of a comfrey plant.
Functions:
Highly regarded for its skin soothing, healing and keratolytic (ability to remove excess skin) properties. It helps shed the outer layer of the epidermis and promotes healthy tissue formation. It also softens the skin and enables it to absorb more moisture. It’s particularly effective at treating wounds, burns, skin ulcers, eczema, and any other abrasion in the skin. There’s no evidence of anti-aging effects. Found in almost every type of cosmetic product including lotion, dandruff shampoo, toothpaste, shaving cream and lipstick.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Studies have shown it to be safe and effective to use, with a recommended concentration of 0.5 -2.0%.
Recommended Products w/Allantoin:
Verdure Rejuvenating Masque Peel ($60 2 fl.oz.), Anthony Logistics After Shave Balm ($19.50 for 2oz), Nutri-Lift Dark Spot Fade Gel ($22 for 2oz), or these 3 Anti-Stretchmark Creams.
Alkylphenol-ethoxylates
* Commonly referred to as APEs- they’re synthetically made from alkyphenols (i.e. nonylphenol, octylphenol).
Functions:
It acts as a surfactant in household cleaning products and hair products like shampoo, conditioner and dye.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
APE’s are considered toxic, but their breakdown products alkyphenols (APs) are believed to be 10 times more toxic. APEs are hormone disrupters because they mimic estrogen. Furthermore, they are not biodegradable when washed down the drain, and have been known to contaminate rivers and hinder the reproduction of fish. In 1976 the US phased APEs out of all detergents, but it can still be found in many cosmetics products and spermicides. It is not recommended that you use this ingredient.
Alkyl polyglycoside
* Derived from fatty alcohol, palm oil and glucose.
Functions:
Primarily acts as a surfactant. It helps emulsify various products (i.e. lotions, crèmes, cleansers) and makes them easier to spread over the skin. The formulation also reduces the total amount of other surfactants without sacrificing the product’s performance. Also, because it’s obtained from renewable sources (i.e. fatty oils and acids), it is environmentally friendly. Completely biodegradable, both aerobically and anaerobically.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Toxicological and ecological laboratory tests have produced favorable results. Alkyl polyglycosides have demonstrated a good compatibility with the eyes, skin and mucous membranes, and have even reduced the irritant effects of surfactant combinations.
Alkyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer
* An absorptive crosspolymer.
Functions:
Absorbs sebum and effectively controls oil production. Also helps extend the shelf life of a product. Frequently used in pressed powders, as well as creams and lotions.
Recommended Products w/ Alkyl Methacrylates Crosspolymer:
Aldenine
* A combination of soy, wheat and tripeptide 1. See Aldenine Article.
Functions:
Boosts the production of collagen III (type we had when we were children), and protects the cells from photo damage. It’s supposedly able to boost collagen production by 300% in just 7 days.
Osmotics Anti-Radical Age Defense ($125), Zelens Skin Science Serum, Dermaxime Rejuvenating Day Cream, see post for more.
Alcohol-denat
* Denatured alcohol (meaning a small amount of denaturant added to ethyl alcohol to make it taste bad.)
Functions:
Has a variety of purposes in cosmetics. It acts as an anti-foaming agent, astringent, antimicrobial agent, and a solvent. It also helps deliver the active ingredients of a product. Almost every type of skincare product lists it as an ingredient, particularly those specifically designed to treat acne.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has ruled it safe, claiming that the dermal application of skin products would not produce harmful exposure to ethyl alcohol. However, those with dry skin may want to avoid using this ingredient, as alcohol does have a tendency to strip the skin of its natural oils. With that in mind, it may be very useful for anyone wishing to treat acne or oily skin.
Albumen
* The clear, liquid part of an egg- AKA the egg white. Pure protein.
Functions:
When applied, it leaves a film on the face and gives a temporary smooth finish. By constricting the skin, it also gives a tightening effect that goes away after a short period of time. Often used in facial masks.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Can cause skin irritation, particularly for anyone allergic to eggs. Because it has no known benefits for the skin (other than a superficial, brief moment of “tighteness”), it is generally not a recommended ingredient.
Albatin
* A hydroglycolic/aqueous solution. See aminoethylphosphinic acid.
Functions:
Primarily a skin whitening agent. Unlike many other skin lighteners that inhibit the production of tyrosinase, Albatin effectively prevents melanin (pigmentation) production by inhibiting activity of the DOPAchrome tautomerase. It’s also known to work synergistically with other skin lighteners and maximize their whitening capabilities. For this reason, it is often combined with Absorbic Acid and Arbutin in products.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Recommended use is 3% concentration.
Recommended Products w/Albatin:
A&G Skin Solutions Eye Serum ($120 for .25 oz)
Alanine
* An amino acid
Functions:
Alanine is a non-essential amino acid that can be manufactured in the body, or obtained through dietary sources such as meat, seafood, eggs, fish, beans, nuts and seeds. It is one of the 20 proteinogenic amino acids, which are considered the building blocks of proteins (Wikipedia). It is used in a wide variety of cosmetics and personal care products as a skin conditioning agent, anti-static agent and masking ingredient, and as an amino acid, may combine with the epidermal cells to fill up creases, and thus provide the surface of your skin with a smoother appearance.
Alanine is FDA approved.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database rates Alanine as a low hazard ingredient, but notes large data gaps indicating a lack of available research. Alanine is “Classified as not expected to be potentially toxic or harmful,” and no studies were found that listed any negative side effects related to this ingredient.
Agar
* A gelatinous substance (polysaccharide) derived from seaweed. Also known as agar agar.
Functions:
It’s mainly used as an emulsifier and thickening agent in a variety of cosmetics, but it also works as a fragrance additive and binder. Because it is a derivative of seawee, many also believe it to have antioxidant properties. You can find it in a variety of personal care products such as foundation, exfoliant/scrub, cleanser, shaving cream, anti-aging treatment, facial moisturizer/lotion, liquid soap, acne treatment, body wash and facial powder.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Some animal studies conducted by the Center for Disease Control via RTECHS have shown tumor formations with high doses of Agar.
Aesculus hippocastanum
*horse chestnut, in cosmetics usually an extract from the seeds of the horse chestnut
Functions: Used as a toner and astringent as well as an anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, and anti-cellulite agent. The ingredient is widely used in Europe for chronic venous insuffiency, hemorrhoids, post-operative edema and as a skin-clearing topical. Extracts from horse chestnut seeds contain saponins known as escin, which are anti-inflammatory compounds that have a gentle soapy feel. Escin reduces capillary fragility, which helps prevent the leakage of fluids into surrounding tissues that ultimately leads to swelling. They also interfere with the release of inflammatory mediators by decreasing white blood cell activation. One 2007 study in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science indicated that the ingredient generates contraction forces in fibroblasts, rendering it a potent anti-aging ingredient. Aesculus hippocastanum can be found in moisturizers, cleansers, toners, scrubs, and aftershave lotions.
Acrylates/octylacrylamide Copolymer
* A copolymer of octylacrylamide and one or more monomers consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or one of their simple esters
Functions:
A film-forming and fixative agent. It is also what makes many products “water-resistant.” Frequently used in hair sprays and sunscreens, it gives a smooth and glossy finish when applied to the hair/skin. You can find this ingredient in products such as hairspray, sunscreen, mascara, fragrance, eye liner, blush and tanning oil.
Acrylates copolymer
* A general term for copolymers of two or more monomers consisting of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or one of their simple esters.
Functions:
A stabilizer mostly used in styling products to set the hair, add body, and protect it from humidity. It possesses a multitude of functions and can work as a film forming agent, hair fixative agent, suspending agent and antistatic agent. It’s also sometimes used as a waterproofing agent in cosmetic products, as well as an adhesive for nail binding products. It’s widely used by the cosmetic industry in products such as hair dye, mascara, nail polish, lipstick, hairspray, body wash, sunscreen and anti-aging treatment.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Acrylates C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Cross Polymer
Functions:
A film forming agent that’s used as a thickener and stabilizer in cosmetic products. Mainly used in clear gels and liquids, as well as some sunscreens and facial scrubs. It’s typically designed to keep dispersions mixed in water from lumping. The film also provides water-binding properties to products. You can find this ingredient in a wide variety of cosmetic products including sunscreen, facial moisturizer/lotion, anti-aging treatment, eye cream, exfoliant/scrub, cleanser, hair dye and styling gel.
Acmella oleracea
muscle relaxant
Toothache plant
Acetyle hexapeptide 8
* A neuropeptide sold under the commercial name of Argireline, is used as a muscle relaxer. Also known as AHA-3.
Functions:
Commonly referred to as “Botox in a jar” because it’s believed to inhibit the release of neurotransmitters and relax the facial muscles- thus reducing expression lines and wrinkles. Unfortunately, proof of the ingredient’s benefits is scarce. However, one study published in the International Journal of Cosmetic Science did show a 10% concentration of Argireline to reduce wrinkles by 30% over a 30-day period. You’ll mostly find this ingredient in skin care products designed to combat the signs of againg, such as anti-aging treatment, facial moisturizer/lotion, concealer, eye cream and foundation.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Acetylcysteine
* Also known as N-acetylcysteine or N-acetyl-L-cysteine (NAC)
Functions:
A pharmacological agent predominantly used as an expectorant to helps relieve difficulties with breathing, but it also functions as a corneal vulnerary and an antidote to acetaminophen poisoning. It consists of the amino acid cysteine, which is, in turn, responsible for boosting the body’s levels of the essential tripeptide glutathione. Glutathione, a strong antioxidant, is responsible for protecting the body’s cells from toxins and free radical damage.
In cosmetics, it mainly functions as a skin conditioning agent. With regards to its potential antioxidant benefits, research seems promising. One study demonstrates how the topical applications of N-acetyl-L-cysteine helpes prevent UV induced photoaging on human skin. several other studies support these findings and suggest that the ingredient may be an effective protector against oxidantive stress. It can be found in products such as sunscreen, facial moisturizer/lotion, anti-aging treatment, mascara, eye cream, skin fader and shampoo/conditioner.
Acetamide MEA
* Also referred to as ethanolamine. An amide that comes in clear liquid form.
Functions:
Acts as a conditioning agent, plasticizer and stabilizer. Its main purpose is to add shine and retain moisture in mostly bath and hair care products, such as bubble baths, shampoos, and hair conditioners. It is also used as a foam booster and thickener.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Acetamide MEA is a mild skin irritant with low toxicity. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has ruled it safe to use topically in rinse-off and leave-in products in concentrations of lower than 7.5%. The International Journal of Toxicity specifies that cosmetic formulations containing the ingredient are safe with the stipulation that they lack significant amounts of free acetamide or nitrosamine.
