B
Coming Soon!
Coming Soon
Follow us on:
Twitter, Facebook, Ning
Lancome Genifique
You’ve seen the infomercial
B
Buxus chinensis
* Botanical Ingredient *
* The liquid wax of the seed produced by the jojoba plant. Also known as Jojoba oil.
Functions:
Works as a natural skin emollient, lubricant and cleanser. For centuries, native Americans used it to treat ailments such as wounds, burns, sores and cuts. A 2005 article in Pharmacological Research documents jojoba oil as having anti-inflammatory and skin soothing properties as well. Furthermore, because its structure and function resembles that of the lipid content of skin, it is also classified as a Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). As an NMF, it helps keep the intercellular structure of the epidermis intact and effectively keeps bacteria out, facilitates the skin’s healing process, prevents dermal irritation and regenerates the skin.
Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter)
*A botanical ingredient and natural fat obtained from the fruit of the karate tree. Also known as Shea butter.
Functions:
Acts as a skin conditioning and moisturizing agent as well as a viscosity (thickness) increasing agent. Its function as a dermal conditioner is two-fold. Not only does it help retain moisture and lessen the loss of water by forming a barrier on the skin’s surface, but it also works to reduce the appearance of rough patches and dry flakes on the skin. Many prefer this ingredient as a moisturizer because of its content of unsaponifiable fats. Unlike other fatty oils, these do not turn into soap when in the presence of a potent alkali, thus retaining its moisturizing properties. The unsaponifiable fraction consists of terpenic alcohols and sterols that give it healing tendencies. It also has a highly unsaturated glycericidic component, which makes it useful as UV screen. In addition, the moisturizers in shea butter are the same as those produced by the sebaceous glands of the skin. Since its structure and function resembles that of the lipid content of skin, it is considered to be a Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). As an NMF, it helps keep the intercellular structure of the epidermis intact, keeps bacteria out, facilitates the skin’s healing process, prevents dermal irritation and regenerates the skin. Butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) can be found in suntan gels and creams, cleansing products, indoor tanning preparations, hair conditioners, hair tonics, lipsticks and body lotions.
Butylphenyl methylpropional
* A synthetic pale yellow liquid aldehyde with a floral aroma.
Functions:
Used as a fragrance additive. You can find it in various personal care products such as perfume, aftershave lotion, hair shampoo/conditioner, hair dye, moisturizer and body wash.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The topical application of this ingredient has been shown to cause irritation and allergic reactions in many individuals. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has restricted its use in fragrances because of the potential dermal sensitization. The European Cosmetics Directive lists this ingredient as an “allergenic” substance, requiring all cosmetic products containing it to indicate the presence of Butylphenyl Methylpropional when its concentration exceeds 0.001% in leave-on the skin products and 0.01% in products that are rinsed off. The EWG’s Cosmetic Database ranks it as a moderate hazard, but it has not been assessed for safety by the industry panel.
Butylene glycol
* A glycol (type of alcohol) ether that comes in the form of a colorless liquid.
Functions:
Used as a solvent and viscosity (thickness) decreasing agent, emulsifier and plasticizer in cosmetic products. Butylene Glycol also functions as a mild humectant that helps the skin and hair retain moisture. Because it is resistant to high humidity, it is valuable in food and cosmetics, retains scents and preserves against spoilage. It can be found in personal care products such as shampoo/conditioner, moisturizer, foundation, cleanser, eye cream and sunscreen. It has also been shown to improve the freeze/thaw abilities of various solutions.
Safety Measures/Side Effects: The Cosmetic Industry Review expert panel concludes that the ingredient is safe to use in concentrations less than 50%. Several other studies support that there are no adverse effects. Human skin patch tests on undiluted Butylene Glycol in a study from the International Journal of Toxicology produced a low order of skin irritation. However, the EWG’s Cosmetic Database notes that there are reports of mild irritation for the eyes and skin if used in higher concentrations.
Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT)
* A fat soluble synthetic compound, in the form of a white/yellow crystalline solid. Also known as butylhydroxytoluene. See BHT article.
Functions:
Primarily acts as an antioxidant food additive because of its ability to preserve fats. In cosmetics, it’s also used as a preservative. As an antioxidant, it helps fight against the deterioration of cosmetic products caused by chemical reactions with oxygen. It’s also known to work synergistically with other antioxidants. It’s mostly used in makeup products such as eyeliner, lipstick, blush and foundation, but you can also find it in various other cosmetic products like moisturizer, cleanser and perfume.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The FDA considers this ingredient as Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) to use as a food additive up to concentrations of .02%. Furthermore, the CIR Expert Panel has assessed this ingredient as safe to use in cosmetic products. However, a great deal of controversy has surrounds ingredient, mostly because of its suspected carcinogenic and anti-cancer properties.
Bupleurum falcatum extract
* Botanical Ingredient *
* A Chinese plant extract commonly referred to as Chai Hu or Hare’s Ear Root.
Functions:
For over 2,000 years, the Chinese and Japanese have used this anti-inflammatory herb as a natural medicinal treatment for hepatitis, cirrhosis and other inflammation related illnesses. It’s also traditionally used to heal deafness, dizziness, diabetes, wounds and vomiting, although there is no scientific evidence to support its effectiveness in treating such conditions. However, several preliminary clinical studies have shown it to prevent Hepatitis B and protect the liver during HIV treatments.
In terms of skin care, there is no research supporting Bupleurum Falcatum extract’s benefits for the skin, except that it may possess wound healing abilities for peptic ulcers. It can be found in personal care products such as sunscreen, facial moisturizer, foundation, tanning lotion and hand cream.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Bromelain
* A mixture of protein digesting enzymes found in pineapple juice an stems.
Functions:
When taken orally, this ingredient has been shown to have anti-inflammatory, antithrombotic, anti-coagulating, diuretic and de-clotting abilities, both on the internal and external parts of the body. It’s often administered as a pain remedy for arthritis, a digestive aid, a decongestant for sinusitis and, most recently, as a complementary treatment for cancer patients. It’s also been demonstrated to work synergistically with Tumeric, another anti-inflammatory.
In cosmetics, it’s primarily known for its anti-inflammatory properties. As an anti-inflammatory and anti-blood clotting agent, it is often used to help reduce the redness, bruising and pain that typically follows invasive cosmetic procedures. Recent studies have shown Bromelain, when administered orally, to prevent the growth of tumor cells, eliminate burn debris and expedite wound healing.
Boron nitride
* A synthetic polymorphic inorganic powder consisting of boron and nitrogen.
Functions:
Functions as a lubricant, an optical diffuser, absorber, and emulsifier. Because of its light-scattering properties, it is most often used in the form of a “soft focus” powder, which creates a shimmery and translucent finish to the face. Its hexagonal crystal structure provides a silky and smooth feel, good slip and excellent skin adhesion properties which enable makeup to stay on the face for long periods of time. Its lubricating abilities facilitate the compaction, transfer and removal of various makeup products, eliminating the need for compacting additives such as stearates. Boron Nitride also the ability to absorb excess oil in the face. You may find this ingredient in cosmetic products such as mineral powder, foundation, eyeshadow, blush, bronzer, eyeliner, lipstick and sunscreen.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Borago officinalis
* Botanical Ingredient *
* An essential fatty acid derived from the plant Borago officinalis- a bright blue, star shaped flower. Commonly referred to as Borage or Borage Seed Oil. For more info, read this Truth In Aging post.
Functions:
Functions as an emollient and skin-conditioning agent. It’s also believed to have a cooling, diuretic, anti-inflammatory and saline effect on the skin. As an emollient, research has demonstrated its effectiveness in reducing redness and soothing damaged & irritated skin tissue. For this reason, it’s frequently used in conjunction with harsh exfoliating ingredients like AHA’s and retinoids, as well as a natural anti-acne creams.
Bixa orellana
* Botanical Ingredient *
* A South American fruit shrub commonly called the “lipstick tree” because it contains brightly colored red annatto seeds. Often referred to as annatto extract.
Functions:
Since ancient Mayan civilization, indigenous tribes of the South American rainforest have relied on Bixa Orellana’s bright red annatto seeds for fabric dye, body paint and arts & crafts. In addition, tribes have long since believed that the seeds to work as an expectorant, and the roots to aid in digestion. For this reason, native South Americans administer the whole plant as a natural medicinal treatment for bladder conditions, fevers, dysentery, burns, inflammation, heartburn and various skin problems.
Today, many people, particularly those interested in natural medicine, believe infusions and decoctions of this ingredient to work as an effective diuretic with powerful anti-inflammatory (external & internal), anti-bacterial and digestive properties. Though its medicinal use is somewhat scarce in North America and Europe, several western studies support Bixa orellana’s purported digestive, anti-bacterial and anti-inflammatory abilities. Click here for a full list of research conducted on this ingredient.
Bismuth oxychloride
* A synthetically prepared white, crystalline powder. A derivative of the metal Bismuth.
Functions:
Functions as a colorant, adding a white pigment to cosmetic products. It’s frequently contained in makeup because it provides good slip, a silky feel and an excellent dermal adhesion that enables makeup to stay on the skin for long periods of time. It’s especially popular with mineral powder makeup because can give either a white shimmer or pearlescent matte finish to the face. This glow serves several aesthetic purposes because, by reflecting light away from the skin, it helps camouflage wrinkles and age spots. This ingredient also functions as a bulking agent for liquid formulations. You can find it in products such as blush, powder foundation, eyeshadow, bronzer, lipstick and nail polish.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Bisamino PEG/PPG-41/3 Aminoethyl PG-Propyl Dimethicone
* A silicone
Functions:
An effective hair conditioning ingredient that does not produce build-up. A super silicone compound, its known for providing a shiny and smooth appearance to the hair, and ideal for dry/damaged/color treated hair types. It’s mainly used in hair products like smoothing balm, shampoo, conditioner, anti-frizz sprays and detangler.
Bisabolol
* The primary component of the essential oil extracted from chamomile. Also known as levomenol.
Functions:
Works as a skin conditioning agent. It enhances the appearance of dehydrated or damaged skin by reducing dry flaking and restoring suppleness to the skin. For hundreds of years, people have used it for medicinal practices, believing it to have anti-irritant, anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties. Because of its high panthenol concentration, it can effectively stimulate and promote the skin’s healing process. It also increases the skin penetration of other cosmetic ingredients, which can be particularly useful when feeding the skin antioxidants. In addition to its skin soothing and healing abilities, it also exudes a subtle floral aroma that is often used to add fragrance to cosmetic products. You can find this ingredient in a wide variety of personal care products such as moisturizer, sunscreen, anti-aging treatment, eye cream, mineral powder foundation, cleanser and lipstick.
BIS Diglyceryl polyacyladipate 2
* A sticky paste.
Functions:
A semi-solid emollient often used as a lanolin substitute. It’s valued for its high water-binding properties, excellent adhesion to the skin and glossy finish. Though it is sometimes contained in cosmetic products such as moisturizer and hair dye, this ingredient is most often used in lip products such as lip gloss, chapstick, lip plumper and lipstick.
Safety Measures/Side Effects
A major component of this ingredient is adipic acid, a mild skin irritant and mildly toxic.
Recommended Products w/ BIS diglyceryl polyacyladipate- 2:
Tarte Lipstick-Bikram ($22)
Biotinyl tripeptide
* A tripeptide comprising of Biotin and 3 amino acid residues. It is considered a protein derivative. Also known as Biotinyl-GHK.
Functions:
A conditioning agent believed to have protective and reparative effects on the hair. Because it contains Biotin, it is also believed to be effective at preventing hair loss. Various scientists purport that Biotinyl-GHK has the ability to increase the adhesion proteins that are responsible for keeping the hair rooted in the scalp (AKA not falling out). However, there exists little scientific evidence to substantiate these claims regarding Biotin, and further research is warranted (See Biotin). This ingredient is mostly found in hair care products such as hair loss treatments, lash extenders, shampoo and conditioner.
Biotin
* A water soluble vitamin naturally found in food. Also known as Coenzyme R, Vitamin B7 or Vitamin H.
Functions:
Mainly used for its moisturizing and smoothing properties. It’s believed to improve the texture in creams, and also add shine, manageability and body to the hair. Because Biotin is a necessary component to the growth and formation of cells, fatty acids and fats, a deficiency of the vitamin often leads to heart problems, skin rash and hair loss. For this reason, many believe that is has the ability to encourage hair growth. In actuality, not one scientific study has yet to prove this particular function, and topical application of Biotin is most likely ineffective considering the fact that it cannot penetrate the skin. Thus far, studies have mostly demonstrated its ability to make the hair more pliable and easy to comb. If looking to treat hair loss, a much better alternative to topical application would be a oral supplement (although even the benefits to biotin supplements remain unclear). Despite the fact that no current research supports the efficacy of this ingredient with regards to skin and hair care, you can still find it in a variety of products such as hair grooming gel, conditioner, shampoo and moisturizer.
Biosaccharide gum-1
* A polysaccharide made by fermenting plants.
Functions:
A moisturizing and skin soothing ingredient. It works by binding water to the epidermis, and creating a moisture-binding film on the skin that gives the skin a soft, smooth feeling. In addition to providing long lasting moisturization, it also functions as an anti-irritant. It can be found in a variety of cosmetics such as facial moisturizer, sunscreen, eye cream, foundation and conditioner.
Recommended Products w/Biosaccharide Gum-1:
Betula alba
* Botanical Ingredient *
* Commonly referred to as Birch Extract- the leaf and bark extract of the White Birch Tree.
Functions:
Known for its skin healing and purifying properties, yet it also functions as an astringent. The shoots and leaves of the plant have been shown to act as a laxative and diuretic, and many consume it orally to treat their gout, rheumatism and kidney stones. In fact, one of the plant’s chemical components, Betullinic Acid, is currently being tested as a promising cancer treatment.The water soluble form of the acid inhibited the growth of human prostate cancer cells by nearly 96%, according to a Weill Cornell research team. Some researchers believe that it has the ability to destroy tumor cells and slow the growth of both HIV and melanoma.
Betaine
* An amino acid. Also known as Trimethylglycine or glycine betaine.
Functions:
Primarily functions as a humectant and anti-irritant in cosmetic products. The small polar molecules of this ingredient are prone to hydrogen bonding (AKA interacting with water), which in turn gives it the ability to retain moisture. It’s able to give superior hydration to the skin, without the residual stickiness often associated with glycerin based emulsions. When used in skin care products, it can temporarily decrease the depth of wrinkles, giving the face a much smoother appearance. Its specific molecular structure is also responsible for giving it unique solvent powers and sensory properties, such as a silky and smooth feel. Its “silk effect”, in turn, is the reason for why it’s used in so many hair shampoos and conditioners.
Beta hydroxy acid
* An organic acid that’s either biosynthesized or extracted from the bark of a willow tree. A derivative of Aspirin. Also known as BHA or Salicylic acid.
Functions:
Mainly works as an exfoliant, but also act as an anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, denaturant, anti-dandruff agent, hair conditioning agent, skin conditioning agent and preservative. The skin care community regards it as an invaluable ingredient because of its multi-functional and versatile nature.
As a keratolytic agent, it exfoliates the skin by causing the cells of the epidermis (upper layer of skin) to shed more easily, making room for new cell growth. Higher concentrations (8-12%) of topically applied salicylic acid can effectively remove warts. Studies have documented BHA concentrations as low as 2% to improve skin thickness, collagen production, wrinkling, roughness and hyperpigmentation over a time period of just 6 months. For this reason, this ingredient is used for both practical purposes, such as with dandruff/dry scalp shampoos, and as a key component in anti-aging skin care. Furthermore, by removing the dead skin cells of the epidermis, this ingredient enables the skin to absorb other anti-aging products (antioxidants, moisturizers) to its maximum potential.
Benzylparaben
* A paraben. Read TIA’s article about parabens for more info.
Functions:
Benzyl salicylate
* A clear, colorless liquid with a floral aroma.
Functions:
Primarily used as a fragrance additive, and secondarily as a UV light absorber. Can be found in a variety of cosmetic products such as perfume/cologne, hair dye, moisturizer, sunscreen, bubble bath and cleanser.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
This ingredient has been known to cause dermal irritation. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has restricted its use in fragrances because of the potential sensitization and allergic reactions. In Europe, it is listed as an “allergenic” substance and the European Cosmetics Directive requires OTC leave-on products to indicate its presence, even at concentrations of .001%.
Benzyl benzoate
* A clear, colorless liquid with a pleasant aroma.
Functions:
Mainly used as a fragrance ingredient and solvent (helps other ingredients dissolve into a solution). It also functions as an insecticide that kills lice, mites and other insects responsible for causing the skin condition Scabies. A wide variety of personal care products contain this ingredient, including aftershave lotion, shampoo/conditioner, cleanser, perfume, moisturizer, suntan lotion and nail polish.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
This ingredient has been shown to irritate the skin with some individuals, and should be avoided by those with a perfume allergy. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has restricted the use Benzyl Benzoate in fragrances because of the potential dermal sensitization. In Europe, it is listed as an “allergenic” substance and the European Cosmetics Directive requires OTC leave-on products to indicate its presence, even at concentrations of .001%.
Benzophenone-4
* Also known as Sulisobenzone. See Sunscreen Article.
Functions:
A photostabilizer and sunscreen agent used for its ability to absorb UV rays. It helps prevent the integrity of other cosmetic ingredients from deteriorating under the sun. Though it covers UVB and short UVA (UVA-2) range rays, it’s an inadequate sunscreen agent when used alone. For this reason, it is often used in conjunction with other sun protecting ingredients. It’s used in a variety of personal care products like sunscreen, nail polish, lotion/cream and lipstick.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Studies have shown it to act as an irritant and allergan when topically applied to the skin. The FDA has approved the use of benzophenone-4 as a safe and effective OTC sunscreen ingredient, but only in concentrations up to 10%. The EU Cosmetics Directive has also assessed the sunscreen ingredient as safe to use in OTC products at concentrations up to 5%.
Recommended Products w/ Benzophenone-4:
Benzophenone-3
* An organic compound in powder form. Also known as Oxybenzone. See Sunscreen Article.
Functions:
Primarily functions as a photostabilizer and sunscreen. As a “chemical” sunscreen agent, it protects the skin from harmful UV-A rays. By absorbing UV rays, it also helps prevent the integrity of other cosmetic ingredients from deteriorating under the sun. For this reason, it’s most often used in conjunction with other sunscreen agents. It’s used in a variety of personal care products like sunscreen, nail polish, lotion/cream and lipstick.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
There are several suspected dangers associated with Benzophenone-3 or Oxybenzone. Despite its sun protective abilities, it has been shown to penetrate the skin and cause photo-sensitivity. As a photocarcinogen, it’s demonstrated an increase in the production of harmful free radicals and an ability to attack our DNA cells. For this reason, it is believed to be a contributing factor in the recent rise of Melanoma cases with sunscreen users. Some studies have shown it to behave similarly to the hormone estrogen, suggesting that it may cause breast cancer. It has also been linked to contact eczema.
Benzoic acid
* The simplest aromatic carboxylic acid. A colorless, crystalline solid naturally found mostly in berries and essential oils.
Functions:
Mainly acts as a PH adjuster and preservative, although it can also be used to add fragrance to a product. It’s used in a variety of cosmetic products such as facial moisturizer, mouthwash, sunscreen, foundation, shampoo, cleanser and lipstick.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Technically not classified as a dermal irritant, although this ingredient has been shown to cause allergic skin reactions in some individuals. It may also act as an eye or respiratory irritant. Compared to most other preservatives, it appears to be much safer and less irritating. The CIR Expert Panel has assessed this ingredient as safe to use in cosmetics at concentrations up to 5%. The EU Cosmetics Directive has also determined it safe in cosmetics, but only at concentrations up to 2.5% in rinse off products and .5% in leave-on products.
Benzethonium chloride
* A synthetic quaternary ammonium salt.
Functions:
Primarily used as a preservative and antimicrobial agent, and secondarily used as a surfactant. It works by killing microorganisms and inhibiting their future growth, and for this reason frequently appears as an ingredient in antibacterial hand wipes, antiseptic creams and anti-itch ointments. In cosmetics, its antimicrobial properties are employed to protect products from spoiling. It’s mostly used in personal care products like rash creme, foot odor powder, facial lotion, cleanser, makeup and sunscreen.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Benzethonium chloride can be irritating to the skin at concentrations higher than 5%. A suspected carcinogen, some believe that it can harm the body’s immune system, central nervous system and lymph system. However, the CIR Expert Panel conducted several studies that showed no evidence for any potential toxicity, carcinogenic activity or mutagenic capabilities. Furthermore, several independent studies demonstrate benzethonium chloride as a possible ati-cancer agent. the CIR assessed this ingredient as safe to use at concentrations up to .5% in OTC skin care products, and at at maximum concentration of .02% for products used in the eye area.
Bentonite
* A clay-like ingredient based on silicates.
Functions:
Primarily works to absorb oil and other impurities from the skin. It also performs as a bulking agent, emulsion stabilizer, opacifying agent, viscocity increasing agent and suspending agent. When used in surfactants, it enables a non-greasy application that is ideal for those with oily skin.
Bentonite most often appears in facial masks, but as a secondary ingredient. Because of its high absorbative powers and tendency to absorb large quantaties of water, it’s rarely the dominant clay ingredient in a mask because it would take too long to dry. Instead, this ingredient is mostly used in lower concentrations to help make facial masks more elastic. In addition to masks, you can also find Bentonite in facial cleansers, foundations, acne treatments and lotion/cremes.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Behenyl alcohol
* A natural fatty alcohol in the form of a white, waxy solid.
Functions:
An emulsifier that also keeps the oil and liquid parts of a solution from separating. Its other functions include altering the thickness of a liquid, increasing foaming capacity, and stabilizing foams. When applied to the skin, it gives it a smooth feel and helps prevent moisture loss. Many products incorporate this ingredient because of its unique sensory properties and non-greasy feel after application. It’s mainly used in face/body lotions and creams, but can also be found in deodorant, lipstick and foundation.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Many people tend to categorize this ingredient as drying and harmful because its name includes the word “alcohol.” In truth, behenyl alcohol has the opposite effect of alcohol, seeing how it effectively emulsifies and seals in moisture into the skin. Furthermore, it is neither irritating nor toxic. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has ruled this as safe to use in cosmetics.
Behentrimonium methosulfate
* Derived from rapeseed oil.
Functions:
A very mild yet effective ingredient known for its de-tangling and hair thickening properties. Because this ingredient directly deposits onto the hair follicle to smooth out the cuticles, it’s highly regarded for its conditioning abilities. It can be found in many hair products like conditioner, detangler, shampoo and styling gel. It also acts as an emulsifying agent, gentle enough to be used in baby products that are left on the skin. When used in lotions and creams, it gives a soft and powdery after-touch to the skin.
Recommended Products w/Behentrimonium Methosulfate:
Alaffia Shea & Honey Nourishing Conditioner, Billy Jealousy Pre-Shave Treatment & Shave Cream, Gold Bond Ultimate Restoring Skin Therapy Lotion
Behentrimonium chloride
* A yellow, waxlike organic quaternary ammonium salt compound . Also known as docosyltrimethylammonium chloride.
Functions:
Acts as an anti-static and conditioning agent. Its waxy texture also makes it a great defrizzer and emulsifier. Primarily used in hair care products such as conditioner, dye and mousse.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
While quaternary ammonium compounds like Behentrimonium chloride are not known to be sensitizing, they are toxic compounds that can be corrosive, causing conjunctival irritation and irreversible ocular damage in high concentrations. The CIR expert panel has marked it as high priority for review. According to the EU Scientific Committee on Consumer Products, it is permitted to be used in concentrations of 0.1% in finished products.
Recommended Products w/Behentrimonium chloride:
Behenoxy dimethicone
* A silicone based polymer. See Silicones Article.
Functions:
An emollient primarily used as a skin & hair conditioner. More specifically, it adds shine to the hair and retains moisture in the skin. Like all other silicones, this ingredient has a unique fluidity that makes it easily spreadable. When applied to the skin, it gives a silky & slippery feeling to the touch. Behenoxy dimethicone also acts a mild water repellent by forming a protective barrier on the skin. It fills in fine lines/wrinkles, giving the face a temporary “plump” look. Because of this smoothing effect, it is often used on the face before applying makeup, and has even been shown to reduce the appearance of unsightly scars. It’s found in a variety of hair & skin products such as conditioner, facial cream/lotion, anti-aging treatments, serums, after-sun products and lip balm.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Behenic acid
* A colorless water soluble fatty acid that is derived from the oil extracts of plants, seeds and animal fats.
Functions:
A conditioning agent that works to smooth out the hair follicle. It also functions as a thickening agent and surfactant, and is often used as an opacifier in clear liquid solutions. This ingredient can be found in various cosmetic products like hair conditioner, shampoo, deodorant, eye liner, facial moisturizer, cleanser and styling gel.
Behenamidopropyl ethyldimonium ethosulfate
* A long chain quaternary ammonium salt.
Functions:
An excellent hair conditioning and anti-static agent. Due to this ingredient’s long chain length, its moisturizing properties are ideal for dry and overprocessed hair. It also functions as a surfactant. Used in a variety of hair, bath & body products like shampoo, conditioner, shaving cream, body wash and soap.
Behenalkonium Chloride
* A long chain fatty acid derived from plants.
Functions:
An excellent conditioning and anti-static agent. It smoothes the hair follicle to give it a shiny appearance. It’s frequently used in shampoos and conditioners to improve the hair’s body and manageability. It also functions as a surfactant, and is commonly used in shaving creams and liquid soap.
Balm of gilead
* Botanical Ingredient *
* A balm made from the resinous gum of poplar buds from North American trees. Also known as commiphora gileadensis or Balsam of Mecca.
Functions:
Used mainly as an anti-inflammatory and healing agent on the skin. Its healing powers are so great that in addition to cosmetics, it’s also used to soothe the mucous membrane for conditions such as laryngitis, sore throats and other respiratory infections. In skin care, it can treat dermalogical ailments such as eczema, psoriasis, frostbite and hemorrhoids. It even works to soothe the aches and pains of muscle tissue, and works effectively to treat severe bruising, arthritis and rheumatism. In addition, because it exudes the sweet smell of evergreen trees, it is also used as a natural fragrance additive. You may find this ingredient in products such as anti-itch ointments, eczema creams, hair balms, moisturizers and pain relief/wound creams.
Babassuamidopropalkonium Chloride
* A hair conditioning agent
Functions:
There is very little information available regarding Babassuamidopropalkonium Chloride, which is used as a conditioning agent in a variety of hair care formulas; it also has anti-static properties. Babassuamidopropalkonium Chloride is derived from Babassu Oil, a vegetable oil extracted from the seeds of the babassu palm in the Amazon region of South America. Babssu Oil is considered non-drying, and is often found in cleansers and skin moisturizers. It is thought to be similar to coconut oil, and is often used as a substitute for it, according to Wikipedia. Babassu Oil contains numerous fatty acids, including lauric acid (a moisturizer in coconut oil and an acne fighter), myristic acid (a highly absorbent lubricant), palmitic acid (a foaming surfactant and sometimes emollient), and stearic acid (a fragrance ingredient and emulsifier). Because Babassuamidopropalkonium Chloride is formed from Babassu Oil, it is thought to share the properties of this compound, including its fatty acid benefits.
