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Cystine
* An amino acid conatining sulfur that naturally occurs in the body. It’s the product of the splitting of proteins of the amino acid methionine. It comes in the form of a colorless solid.
Functions:
All amino acids are the building blocks of proteins. This specific amino acid, cystine, is found in especially high quantities in keratin and constitutes for 5% of human hair. The body requires it to produce glutathione, a natural antioxidant known to fight free-radical damage. A defieciency in cystine has been shown to significantly slow down the growth of both skin & hair, and thus many believe it to be an essential anti-aging ingredient for healthy skin, hair, bones, and connective tissue. Supplements of the nutrient have been shown to help rebuild skin & hair tissue, speed the healing of burns and wounds and treat arthritis.
Cymbopogon schoenanthus oil
* Botanical Ingredient *
* Also known as lemongrass oil or camel grass oil.
Functions:
Mainly used as a tonic and fragrance additive in cosmetic products. Its anti-bacterial properties (Source: Journal of Applied Microbiology, 2000, volume 88, pages 308–316) and anti-fungal capabilities make it an excellent choice for oilier skin types. More than anything, it’s used to add a lemon scent to, not just skin care formulations, but other items such as soap, candles and incense sticks. You can find this ingredient in personal care products such as hair dye, shampoo/conditioner, moisturizer/lotion, bath oil, exfoliant/scrub, anti-aging treatment and acne treatment.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The FDA includes it on its list of Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) food additives. However, it has been known to irritate the skin of some individuals, particularly with those with lemongrass allergies.
Recommended Products w/ cymbopogon schoenanthus:
Cymbopogon martini
* Botanical Ingredient *
* An oil extracted from palmarosa, a wild herbaceous grass native to India, Africa and Indonesia. Also known as palmarosa oil or geranium oil.
Functions:
This ingredient works as a skin conditioning agent and tonic. As a tonic, it works by balancing the skin’s sebum production. You’ll often find it in cosmetic products aiming to combat oiliness, and it’s particularly effective in treating specific skin issues such as acne and pimples. This is largely due to palmarosa oil’s well documented anti-microbial properties and ability to eliminate bacteria that causes acne. As a skin conditioning agent, it helps keep the skin supple and elastic, allowing skin cells to healthily regenerate. Many individuals use it to treat skin infections and prevent scarring. This oil also has a long lasting aroma (similar the smell of roses), which also makes it a popular fragrance additive in the cosmetic industry. You may find this ingredient in various personal care products such as facial moisturizer/lotion, anti-aging treatment, cleanser, acne treatment, perfume, shaving cream, body firming lotion, eye cream, makeup remover and bath oil.
Cyclopentasiloxane
* A silicone. See TIA’s Silicone Article.
Functions:
Mainly used as a conditioner, delivery agent, lubricant and solvent. Like all other silicones, this ingredient has a unique fluidity that makes it easily spreadable. When applied to the skin and hair, it gives a silky & slippery feeling to the touch and acts a mild water repellent by forming a protective barrier on the skin. It can also fill in fine lines/wrinkles, giving the face a temporary “plump” look.
It’s ability to impart a wet and silky look makes it an ideal candidate in hair products, both rinse off and leave on ones. It’s particularly useful in hair conditioners because it provides a silky feel with out weighing the hair down with greasy residue. Because of its water thin consistency, it helps deliver heavier silicones also contained in a product, and for this is reason is often used in conjunction with dimethicone. In fact, as a volatile silicone, it quickly evaporates into the air after delivering nutrients to the skin and hair. You can mostly dind this ingredient in products such as foundation, facial moisturizer/lotion, hair dye, shampoo/conditioner, styling gel, anti-frizz treatment, sunscreen, anti-aging treatment and deodorant/antiperspirant.
Cyclomethicone
* A synthetic silicone oil. See TIA’s Silicone Article.
Functions:
Works in a variety ways, namely as a conditioning agent, solvent, humectant, carrying agent and viscosity controlling agent. Like all other silicones, this ingredient has a unique fluidity that makes it easily spreadable. When applied to the skin and hair, it gives a silky & slippery feeling to the touch and acts a mild water repellent by forming a protective barrier on the skin. It can also fill in fine lines/wrinkles, giving the face a temporary “plump” look.
Because its molecules are too big to physically penetrate the skin, it does not have any true moisturizing properties, but rather mostly functions as a carrying agent for other ingredients contained in a product. It’s particularly useful at quickly delivering nutrients to the skin & hair and evaporating into the air. It can also work as a base solvent for perfume oils and fragrance oils, as well as an anti-static agent. It’s particularly useful as a hair conditioner because it provides a silky feel with out weighing the hair down with greasy residue. It can be found in a variety of cosmetic products such as facial moisturizer/lotion, foundation, shampoo/conditioner, body spray, sunscreen, anti-aging treatment, antiperspirant/deodorant, concealer, hair dye and eye cream.
Cyclohexasiloxane
* A silicone. See TIA’s Silicone Article.
Functions:
Primarily works as a skin conditioning agent and emollient. Like all other silicones, this ingredient has a unique fluidity that makes it easily spreadable. When applied to the skin, it gives a silky & slippery feeling to the touch and acts a mild water repellent by forming a protective barrier on the skin. It can also fill in fine lines/wrinkles, giving the face a temporary “plump” look.
It is often used in conjunction with cyclopentasiloxane (INCL name Cyclomethicone) to work as a base liquid, carrying agent and wetting agent. It also helps reduce the amount of residue typically associated with deodorants & antiperspirants. You can mainly find it in personal care products such as facial moisturizer/lotion, foundation, anti-aging treatment, sunscreen, concealer and mascara.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Cyclodextrin
* A naturally occurring polysaccharide that is produced from starch. Sometimes referred to as cycloamylose.
Functions:
This ingredient’s unique cylindrically shaped molecular structure enables it to form host-guest or inclusion complexes with a variety of materials, and thus it’s employed in a variety of fields. It’s used to enable drug release in pharmaceutical products, to immobilize toxicity in enviromental substances (i.e. sewage) and eliminate cholesterol in various food products.
In cosmetics, it’s primarily used for its odor absorption capabilities. In addition to stabilizing fragrances, it also works to reduce the foam in a solution an enhance the solubility and delivery of other ingredients in a product. As a stabilizer that keeps other ingredients from evaporating and losing efficacy, it’s often used in conjunction with vitamin A derivatives (aka retinoids) because they are very sensitive to temperature and light. For this reason, you may find this cyclodextrin in a variety of anti-aging products that contain potent, yet unstable, antioxidant ingredients. It’s contained in personal care products such as anti-aging treatment, facial moisturizer/lotion, sunscreen, cleanser, eye cream, deodorant/antiperspirant and self-tanner.
Cyanocobalamin
* A common form of vitamin B12. Sometimes referred to as cobalamin.
Functions:
Vitamin B12 plays a crucial role in the body’s healthy biological functioning. It’s responsible for the proper functioning of the brain, the formation of blood and the metabolism, synthesis and regulation of DNA and fatty acid cells.
Cosmetically speaking, cyanocobalamin’s functions are far less obvious and clear. While it has been shown to effectively treat psoriasis (Source: Dermatology, 2001, volume 203, number 2, pages 141–147), there is very little research to support its benefits for the skin following topical application. With that being said, many anti-aging creams contain this ingredient, believing that it may strengthen the skin’s capillaries and reduce inflammations. You may find this ingredient in personal care products such as anti-aging treatment, facial moisturizer/lotion, shampoo/conditioner, hair loss treatment, mouthwash, eye cream, styling gel and cleanser.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Curcuma longa
* Botanical Ingredient
* A yellow-orange polyphenol that is extracted from the plant curcuma longa, a South Asian plant belonging to the ginger family. Also known as turmeric extract or curcumin.
* Read TIA’s Turmeric Article.
Functions:
Medicinally speaking, curcuma longa is believed to have many helath benefits for the human body. Recent research points to this ingredient as an effective preventative treatment for Alzheimers, colon cancer, ovarian cancer, arthritis and diabetes. As an Alzheimers remedy, studies have shown it to improve memory and prevent brain deterioration by inhibiting the formation of amyloid-beta oligomers. Clinical data also demonstrates the polyphenol to inhibit angiogenesis, neutrophil activation and collagenase & stromelysin expression, proving it to be an effective anti-inflammatory against arthritis, ulcers and tumor formation. There’s even research to show its ability to inhibit the growth of certain cancer cells, namely ovarian, bladder and melanoma cancer cells.
Creatine
* A nitrogenous organic acid that occurs naturally in vertebrates.
Functions:
Biologically speaking, this ingredient is naturally produced by amino acids in the body, and plays a vital role in supplying energy to skeletal muscle and nerve cells. It’s been shown to increase muscle strength and raise the body’s human growth hormone, and for this reason is frequently taken as a supplement by body builders.
Cosmetically speaking, many skin care manufacturers theorize that creatine demonstrates the same cell-signaling properties when applied topically to the skin. They believe that it may improve skin cell turnover, increase elasticity and treat hyper-pigmentation, particularly when used in combination with folic acid and carnitine. Many who use this ingredient (orally or topically) report an increase in hair growth and thickness, although others claim it to cause the reverse effect as well (i.e. hair loss).
Copernicia cerifera wax
* Botanical Ingredient *
* A wax derived from the tropical palm tree copernicia cerifera. It comes in the form of hard yellow-brown flakes. Also known as carnauba wax or Brazil wax.
Functions:
The hardest of all commercial vegetable waxes, this tough and amorphous ingredient has a variety of functions, such as increasing a solution’s viscosity, imparting emollience and preventing the oil and water parts of an emulsion from separating (especially in creamy formulations). It’s usually used to help thicken the oil portion of stick products like lipstick or chapstick, working to give them structure and solidify them. With regards to lip and eye products, this waxy ingredient not only helps stiffen them, but also contributes a flexibility and plasticity that also helps facilitate their application.
Coffeeberry
* A natural, powerful antioxidant found in the coffee cherry that prevents and repairs damage caused by free radicals
* For more info, read TIA’s article on coffeeberry.
Functions:
Although many other fruits contain antioxidants, the coffeeberry surpasses other sources with more than three times the level of concentration found in green tea and blueberries. The polyphenols found in the coffeeberry neutralize free radicals in and on the skin before they can affix to skin cells and destroy the membrane. These polyphenol anti-oxidants are believed to prevent cellular damage in skin and the coffeeberry is considered safe for sensitive skin types due to its natural properties. Research is currently being done on its healing and soothing properties and it is thought to protect against the sun’s UVA and UVB radiation, according to AntioxidantSkinCare.org. A test on women ages 35 – 60 found that over three weeks, application of cream containing coffeeberry reduced wrinkles, dry skin, and discoloration by 46% and improved skin softness by 64% (Source).
Coenzyme q10
* A naturally occurring antioxidant that helps neutralize harmful free radicals. Sometimes referred to as CoQ10 or ubiquinone.
*For more info, read TIA’s article What is it: Co-enzyme Q10?
Functions:
Coenzyme Q10 (CoQ10) is a vitamin-like substance produced by the human body and is necessary for the basic functioning of cells. According to SmartSkinCare.com, it is an antioxidant that helps neutralize harmful free radicals, one of the causes of aging. Stress, aging or some medications can cause a natural decline in CoQ10 and in most people over thirty, levels of CoQ10 in the skin are below optimum, resulting in lesser ability to produce collagen, elastin and other important skin molecules. As a small molecule that can easily penetrate the skin, CoQ10 may boost skin repair and regeneration and reduce free radical damage. According to a 1999 study in Germany, CoQ10 has the beneficial effect of preventing photoaging and wrinkles, most notably crows feet around the eyes.
Coenzyme A
* Adapted from pantothenic acid and adenosine triphosphate.
Functions:
Biologically speaking, this coenzyme plays a vital role in the synthesis and oxidation of fatty acids. With regards to cosmetics, it primarily functions as a a skin conditioner and emollient, and secondarily as a solvent. It is said that coenzyme A and L-carnitine both work as sculpting agents by creating the one-way flow of fatty acids, stimulating a respiration chain between mitochondrion and free fatty acids and decreasing excessive triglycerides of fatty cells. In one study, oxidized coenzyme A stimulated collagen production. You may find this ingredient in various personal care products such as toothpaste, body firming lotion, shampoo/conditioner, self tanner, hair loss treatment, anti-aging treatment and facial moisturizer.
Coco-glucoside
* Derived from coconut oil and fruit sugar.
Functions:
Works as a surfactant, foaming agent, conditioner and emulsifier. It helps increase the foaming capacity of a solution, and is particularly useful in hair care products, in which it has the ability to smooth out the hair structure and increase manageability. As an anionic surfactant, it mildly cleanses the skin/hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed off. As an emulsifier, it keeps the oil and water parts of an emulsion from separating, and it also enhances the properties of primary cleansing and moisturizing agents contained in a product.
This ingredient is compatible with all skin types and gentle enough to be used in baby products. The Duhring Chamber Test lists it as having the lowest irritation score of all common surfactants. You may find it in a variety of cosmetic products such as body wash, shampoo, cleanser, conditioner, hair dye, liquid hand soap, exfoliant/scrub, acne treatment, facial moisturizer and baby soap.
Coco-betaine
* A derivative of cocamide and glycine betaine. Its made from coconut oil, and comes in the form of a pale yellow liquid. Also known as cocamidopropyl betaine.
Functions:
Works as a surfactant, foaming agent, viscocity increasing agent, emulsifier and conditioner. As a surfactant, it’s mostly used in bath products because it gently cleanses the skin/hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed off. On top of that, its pH range contributes a mild germicidal effect, which also makes it an effective, yet mild, cleansing agent for personal sanitary products.
Cocamidopropylamine oxide
* Made by reacting dimethylaminodpropylamine and hydrogen peroxide with coconut oil. It comes in the form of a clear to slightly hazy liquid.
Functions:
It works as a conditioning agent and surfactant. As a surfactant, it effectively cleanses the skin/hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed off. It also has the ability increase the foaming capacity of a cosmetic solution and enhance the water solubility of other cleansing agents contained within a product. Its conditioning properties help improve the appearance of dry/damaged hair by increasing its body, suppleness and sheen. You can find this ingredient in personal care products such as cleanser, shampoo, bath oil/salts, acne treatment, body wash, hand sanitizer ,makeup removed, dandruff treatment and bubble bath.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Cocamidopropyl hydroxysultaine
* An inner salt derived from the fatty acids of coconut oil.
Functions:
This ingredient has a wide range of uses, especially with hair care products. It acts as a foaming agent, conditioner, anti-static agent, surfactant and thickener. As a mild surfactant, it gently cleanses the skin/hair and helps deliver other ingredients contained in a product, particularly moisturizing and cleansing ones. It’s mostly used in bath and hair products such as shampoo, body wash, cleanser, hair dye, liquid hand soap, bubble bath, conditioner, exfoliant/scrub and shaving cream.
Cocamide MIPA
* A mixture of isopropanolamides of coconut acid. Also known as cocamide monoisopropanolamine.
Functions:
This ingredient works in a variety of ways, including as an emulsifier, a stabilizer (in foams & emulsions), a thickener, a surfactant, an anticorrosive agent and a foaming agent. Its function is very similar to that of Cocamide DEA and Cocamide MEA. Its mostly contained in personal care products such as shampoo, hair dye, conditioner, body wash, dandruff treatment, bubble bath, exfoliant/scrub, cleanser and liquid hand soap
Cocamide MEA
* Made by mixing the fatty acids from coconut oil and monoethanolamine (MEA). It comes in the form of a waxy, white substance. It may also contain small amounts of Cocamide DEA.
Functions:
Works as a thickener, foaming agent and emulsifier. Its functions are very similar to those of Cocamide DEA. Its mainly used to thicken and opacify a cosmetic formulation, and also works to enhance the properties of the main cleansing ingredient contained in a surfactant, most often a bath product like conditioner or body wash.
While its foaming capabilities are not directly responsible for cleansing the skin/hair, it allows the hands to efficiently work and spread the cleanser/shampoo across the surface, which in turn, helps the mechanical removal of dirt. It also provides excellent moisturization and conditioning to the hair/skin. This ingredient is most often used in opaque and syrupy cosmetic formulations such as hair dye, body wash, conditioner, dandruff treatment, liquid hand soap, cleanser, exfoliant/scrub, bubble bath and bath oil.
Cocamide DEA
* Made by reacting the fatty acids from coconut oil with diethanolamine.
Functions:
An emulsifier, thickener and foaming agent. This ingredient has the ability to increase the foaming capacity and/or stabilize the foam of a surfactant, most often a bath product such as shampoo or bubble bath. It can also increase the viscosity of an aqueous (water based) solution.
Because Cocamide DEA is both water soluble and oil soluble, it enables both water and oil to be evenly dispersed in a solution. It also traps the oil based dirt of the hair so that it can be rinsed away. While traditional cleansing surfactants (i.e. soap) have a drying effect, this ingredient effectively cleans the hair and conditions it with its natural fatty acids derived from coconut oil. It also has the ability to enhance the performance of other ingredients, namely cleansing agents and conditioners. You’ll mostly find this ingredient in shampoo, body wash, cleanser, liquid soap, bubble bath, dandruff treatment, hair dye exfoliant/scrub and bath oil.
Citrulline
* An organic compound and amino acid that’s highly present in the rind of watermelon. Sometimes referred to as L-Citrulline. See TIA’s article on Tripeptide-10 Citrulline.
Functions:
In the human body it’s primarily located in the liver, where it helps detoxify the body and combines with other amino acids to convert to arginine. Seeing how its main function is to boost the body’s production of arginine, it’s widely used as an herbal supplement designed to enhance sports performance. In cosmetics, this ingredient mainly functions as a skin conditioning agent with potential antioxidant benefits. Citrulline is said to trigger a compound in the body that helps relax the muscles, and many believe it benefits the cardiovascular and circulatory immune systems. While more research is needed to support the ingredient’s purported benefits, it most likely possesses water-binding properties (like all amino acids). You can find it in a variety of personal care products such as facial moisturizer, sunscreen, foundation and anti-aging treatment.
Chrysin
* A naturally occurring flavone extracted from the blue passionflower.
Functions:
Mainly used as an anti-inflammatory and skin conditioning agent. Its falsely marketed as an aromatase inhibitor (decrease in estrogen & increase in testosterone), and thus is often taken as an herbal supplement by body builders. Recent research also suggests that it may increase collagen production without affecting the protein structure of human skin.
As an anti-inflammatory, this flavonoid is believed to improve the strength of blood vessels and circulation underneath the skin, as well as eliminate blood pigments and by-products of hemoglobin degradation. It’s particularly popular with under-eye creams because it is believed to activate the enzyme the enzyme UGT1A1 and eliminate the bilirubin and biliverdin accumulated underneath the skin (aka “dark circles”). In addition to eye cream, you may find this ingredient in cosmetic products such as anti-aging treatment, facial moisturizer, sunscreen, body firming lotion, eye makeup and exfoliant/scrub.
Chrysin
* Botanical Ingredient *
* A naturally occurring isoflavone that is extracted from plants, most often from the passiflora caerulea (blue passion flower).
Functions:
This flavanoid is well documented for exhibiting anti-inflammatory, anti-tumor and anti-carcinogenic capabilities. It’s frequently taken as an herbal supplement by bodybuilders who are looking to increase muscle mass via an increase in testosterone. This is due to the fact that most chrysin manufacturers market their supplements as aromatase activity inhibitors (meaning it inhibits the synthesis of estrogen). However, there is no substantial scientific data to support these purported claims, and there is growing evidence that this ingredient has no effect on the body’s estrogen levels whatsoever.
In skin care, this ingredient is mostly used as a skin conditioning agent, anti-inflammatory and potential antioxidant. Research strongly suggests that this flavonoid works to reduce inflammations, most likely due to the fact that it inhibits COX-2 expression and PGE-2 formation. It also demonstrates its ability to scavenge free radicals in the body, purporting that it may function as an antioxidant as well.
Choline chloride
* An organic compound and quaternary ammonium salt. Sometimes referred to as epacholine, biocolina and lipotril.
Functions:
Biologically speaking, the body requires choline chloride to maintain proper brain functioning. Because of its ability to accelerate growth, its widely used by the agricultural community as an additive to animal feed and plant fertilizer. With regards to skin care, this ingredient is mainly used as a humectant, and is sometimes even administered to pre-menopausal women to keep the mucous membranes moist. In general, though, it plays a minor role in the cosmetic industry, and is mainly used in rinse-off products like body wash, cleanser, soap and hair loss treatment.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Cholesterol
* A lipid and sterol (unsaturated solid alcohol present in fatty tissue) that is either plant or animal derived. It comes in the form of a naturally waxy fat-like substance.
Functions:
It works as a skin conditioner, thickening agent, stabilizer and water binding agent. Because the skin’s natural lipid barrier comprises of cholesterol, this ingredient helps maintain proper functioning in the epidermis by retaining moisture levels and regulating cell activity. It works to strengthen the outer structure of the skin and protect it from dehydration. It also keeps the water and oil parts of an emulsion from separating and controls the viscosity of non-aqueous solutions. Because of it’s multi-functional nature, you can find this ingredient in a wide range of personal care products such as facial moisturizer, anti-aging treatment, sunscreen, lipstick, eye cream, foundation, cleanser and hair dye.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Cholecalciferol
* A form of vitamin D, also known as vitamin D3.
Functions:
Believed to function as an antioxidant, though there’s very little evidence pointing to the benefits of its topical application. Biologically speaking, cholecalciferol is a hormone that’s essential to the body’s proper bone functioning and immune system. Deficiencies can lead to various bone conditions like osteoporosis, rickets and calcification. It’s mainly produced in either the kidney or the epidermal layer of the skin following UVB exposure. Oral supplements have been shown to effectively prevent and fight against various forms of cancer.
Chlorphenesin
* An organic compound.
Functions:
Primarily used as a pharmaceutical muscle relaxant, which works by blocking nerve impulses that are sent to the brain. In cosmetics, it’s used as a preservative because of its anti-fungal and anti-bacterial properties. As a preservative, it prevents various products from running into issues such as such as viscosity changes, pH changes, emulsion breakdown, visible microorganism growth, color changes and disagreeable odor formation. Secondary to anti-fungal nail treatments, this ingredient is mostly contained in products such as facial moisturizer, anti-aging treatment, sunscreen, foundation, eye cream, cleanser, mascara and concealer.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Chlorphenesin has been reported to cause irritation and contact dermatitis in many, particularly those with sensitive & dry skin. In addition, research has shown it relax the skeletal muscle, depress the central nervous system and cause respiratory depression (slow or shallow breathing) in infants. Considering this, the FDA dissuades pregnant/nursing women and small children from using personal care products containing this ingredient.
Chlorophyllin-copper complex
* A semi-synthetic sodium/copper derivative of chlorophyll. Also known as potassium sodium copper chlorophyllin.
Functions:
The cosmetic industry mainly uses this ingredient as a colorant and deodorant agent. As a derivative of chlorophyll it adds a green dye to dentifrices, as well as to various makeup and skin care formulations. The topical application of this ingredient also helps eliminate odors that form on the skin, and is particularly effective in deodorizing wounds, burns and other skin conditions. In addition to helping control odor, chlorophyllin-copper complex is also known to help expedite the healing of wounds by slowing the growth of certain anaerobic bacteria on the skin. You can find this ingredient in a variety of personal care products such as bath oil/salts, soap, shampoo, cleanser, moisturizer, antiperspirant/deodorant, facial masks, body oil, foot odor treatment, toner/astringent and exfoliant/scrub.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Chlorhexidine digluconate
* The salt of chlorhexidine and gluconic acid. It comes in the form of an odorless, white crystalline powder.
Functions:
A topical anti-microbrial agent and disinfectant used to treat fungus, bacteria and other skin infections. In cosmetics, it mainly functions as a biocide, oral care agent and preservative. As a biocidal agent, it helps cleanse the skin and eliminates odor by destroying the growth of microorganisms. In addition to preventing bacterial growth on contact, it also has residual effects that inhibit microbial regrowth after application. Chlorhexidine digluconate is widely used in dentistry because of its ability to eliminate plaque formation. Its anti-bacterial properties also make it an effective preservative that protects a cosmetic formulation from contamination and spoilage. It can be found in various personal care products such as mouthwash, hair dye, foundation, anti-aging treatment, facial moisturizer, sunscreen, eye makeup, acne treatment, exfoliant/scrub, cleanser and after shave.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Chlorella vulgaris extract
* Botanical Ingredient *
* An extract of algae. It comes in the form of a green liquid. Also goes by the trademark name Dermochlorella.
Functions:
This skin conditioning and protecting agent is believed to have powerful anti-aging benefits, mainly due to the fact that it’s a rich source of carotenoids- a family of nutrients that, when ingested, deposit into the skin and protect it from the harmful effects of UV rays (i.e. pigmentation, sunburn, cancer. In fact, Korean researchers have discovered that when Lutein (a carotenoid) was extracted from chlorella vulgaris, it blocked the growth of human colon cancer cells.
Chitosan ascorbate
* The ascorbic acid (vitamin C) salt of chitosan- a polysaccharide derived from the outer skeleton of crustaceans. Sometimes referred to as chitosan or chitin.
Functions:
Primarily functions as an antioxidant, skin conditioner and film-forming agent. As a stabilized form of Vitamin C, it offers the anti-oxidant and anti-aging properties of ascorbic acid. Furthermore, the chemical structure of one of its main components, chitin, closely resembles that of mucopolysaccharides (i.e. hyaluronic acid, heparin) substances found within human skin tissue whose function is to moisturize and lubricate. Thus, chitosan ascorbate hydrates by supplying water to the skin, avoiding dehydration through water retention and providing a protective film on the epidermis. Its protective film-forming capabilities help fix other active ingredients contained in a cosmetic solution to the skin, heightening their effectiveness. Studies have also shown chitosan ascorbate to create a protective “bandage” on the skin, which helps stop bleeding, encourages wound healing and expedites tissue regeneration.
Chamomile
* Botanical Ingredient *
* Refers to several distinct plants of the Asteraceae species (sunflower and daisy family). On an ingredient list, it can appear in the form of many names including:
- chamomilla recutita
- matricaria recutita (German Chamomile or Blue Chamomile)
- chrysanthellum indicum (Golden Chamomile)
- anthemis nobilis (Roman Chamomile)
- ormenis multicaulis (Moroccan Chamomile)
- matricaria discoidea (Wild Chamomile).
Functions:
The chamomile flower is most often consumed as a bitter tea infusion, which is made by brewing its dried flower heads. It contains coumarin, a naturally-occurring compound with anticoagulant and blood-thinning effects. For thousands of years, humans have relied on chamomile tea for various medicinal purposes, such as the calming of the digestive tract, the pain relief of menstrual cramps, the easing of spasms associated with Irritable Bowel Syndrome and, perhaps most frequently, as an anti-insomnia sedative.
Cetyl ricinoleate
* A fatty acid made from castor oil, a vegetable oil obtained from the seeds of the ricinus communis plant. Also known by its trade name Naturechem CR.
Functions:
Works as a conditioner, stabilizer and film forming agent in cosmetic formulations. It’s known for providing a light, non-oily and silky moisturization to the skin. It is considered to be a non-comedogenic emollient that does not clog the pores. This ingredient is mostly used in makeup and skincare products such as lipstick, facial moisturizer, anti-aging treatment, sunscreen, cleanser, lip gloss and facial masks.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The FDA includes castor oil on its list of natural flavoring substances and direct food additives. Some people question the safety of this ingredient, believing that it contains the highly toxic compound ricin. In truth, it does not contain ricin due to the fact that it’s water-soluble and does not dissolve in the oil obtained from the castor beans. The CIR Expert Panel has assessed this ingredient, and all other castor oil derivatives, as non-toxic and non sensitizing, determining it safe to use in cosmetic products. The EU Cosmetics Directive also permits it t be used in personal care products according to the general provisions of the directive.
Cetyl Peg/Ppg-10/1 dimethicone
* A silicone/siloxane. Also known as cetyl dimethicone copolyol or by its trade name Ambil EM 90.
Functions:
A skin/hair conditioning agent, emulsifier and delivery agent. As a silicone it provides emolliency, water binding properties, good slip and a silky touch on the skin. It keeps the water and oil parts of an emulsion from separating, and possesses great trapping capacity that enables it to prolong the release of active molecules, particularly pigmented ones. It also conditions the skin, gives it a smooth and soft look and eliminates any tackiness. You may find this ingredient in various makeup and skincare products such as facial moisturizer, foundation, concealer, sunscreen, lipstick, blush, anti-aging treatment, eye cream and lip gloss.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The safety of this ingredient has not been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. In general it’s regarded as safe to use in cosmetic products, although many believe PEGs to act as toxic carcinogens. For more information on the safety of PEGs, read Truth In Aging’s PEG Article.
Cetyl palmitate
* The ester of cetyl alcohol and palmitic acid- a naturally occurring fatty acid found in plants and animals. It is also a chief component in the wax of sperm whale oil. It comes in the form of a white, crystalline, wax-like substance.
Functions:
An emollient that lubricants and conditions the skin’s surface, helping it to appear softer and smoother. It is also used as a surfactant in shampoos, and as an emulsifier and thickening agent in various lotions and cremes. It also helps add texture various makeup products. This ingredient is primarily used in personal care products such as facial moisturizer, foundation, lipstick, lip/eye liner, sunscreen, anti-aging treatment and concealer.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose
* The ether of cetyl alcohol and hydroxyethylcellulose. Its classified under gums, hydrophilic colloids and derivatives. Sometimes referred to as Polysurf.
Functions:
A thickening agent for aqueous solutions and a stabilizer in emulsions. It also helps retain moisture levels on the skin & hair an reduces tackiness. This ingredient is mostly used in cosmetic products such as facial moisturizer, anti-aging treatment, conditioner, sunscreen, cleanser, bronzer and foundation.
Recommended Products w/ cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose:
Cetyl ethylhexanoate
* A synthetic ester of cetyl alcohol and 2-ethylhexanoic acid. Comes in the form of a pale yellow wax/liquid.
Functions:
Works as an emollient, skin conditioner and thickening agent. It lubricates the surface of the skin/hair, removes the appearance of dry patches and flakes and gives the skin a soft and smooth look. It gives cosmetic products water-repelling properties and an easy spreadabillity. It’s used as a substitute to Spermaceti wax, which comes from whales. You can find this ingredient in products such as lipstick, foundation, facial moisturizer, lip gloss, anti-aging treatment, lip/eye liner, conditioner and eye shadow.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The safety of this specific ingredient has not been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient review (CIR) Expert Panel.
Cetyl dimethicone copolyol
* Also known as cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 dimethicone or Abil EM90.
Functions:
A silicone/siloxane that functions as an emulsifier, surfactant and delivery agent for other ingredients contained in a cosmetic formulation. It keeps the water and oil parts of an emulsion from separating, and possesses great trapping capacity that enables it to prolong the release of active molecules, particularly pigmented ones. It also conditions the skin, gives it a smooth and soft look and eliminates any tackiness. You may find this ingredient in various skin care and makeup products such as sunscreen, foundation, concealer, lipstick, facial moisturizer, blush, eye cream and anti-aging treatment.
Cetyl alcohol
* A fatty alcohol that’s either produced from the end products of the petroleum industry, or derived from plants (palm oil-palmityl alcohol). It comes in the form of a white, waxy solid. It’s no longer derived from whale sperm oil (where it was originally discovered) seeing how whales are now an endangered species.
Functions:
Works as an emollient, emulsifier, thickener and carrying agent for other ingredients contained in a cosmetic solution. It keeps the oil and water parts of an emulsion from separating, and gives products good spreadability. As a thickening agent and surfactant, it helps alter the viscosity and increase the foaming capacity of non-aqueous (i.e. lotions) and aqueous solutions (i.e. shampoo). It is often misinterpreted as an “alcohol” related to ethyl or rubbing alcohol, both of which can be extremely drying to the skin. The truth, in fact, is quite the opposite, as cetyl alcohol is well known to effectively condition and soften the skin and hair. Because of its multi-functional capabilities, this ingredient is used in a wide range of personal care products such as moisturizer, face cream, shampoo/conditioner, anti-aging treatment, hair dye, sunscreen, cleanser and lipstick.
Cetrimonium chloride
* A quaternary ammonium salt or QUAT.
Functions:
Mainly used to prevent static and build-up in the hair. It can also cleanse the skin/hair and eliminate odor by preventing the growth of microorganisms, and by enabling water to mix with dirt and rinse it away. In addition, by reducing the surface tension of other ingredients and working to distribute and suspend insoluble solids in liquid, it helps form emulsions. This ingredient is mainly used in hair products such as hair dye, shampoo/conditioner, styling gel, mousse, detangler, dandruff treatment and relaxer.
Safety Measures/Side Effets:
Cetearyl olivate
* The ester of cetearyl alcohol and the fatty acids derived from olive oil. Comes in the form of an oily wax.
Functions:
A nonionic emulsifier that helps blend ingredients together in cosmetic solutions, usually ones with moisturizing properties. It’s helps soften the skin & hair, and gives products a smooth and luxurious feel. It’s most often used in conjunction with sorbitan olivate, and this blend most often appears as Olivem 1000 on an ingredient list. You can find this ingredient in several personal care products such as facial moisturizer, conditioner, anti-aging treatment, sunscreen, shaving cream, eye cream, lip gloss, cleanser, skin fader, scar treatment and body firming lotion.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The safety of cetearyl olivate has not been reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. However, the CIR Expert Panel has assessed one of its main components, cetearyl alcohol, as non-toxic and non-sensitizing, classifying it as safe to use in cosmetic products. The EU Cosmetics Directive also allows cetearyl alcohol to be used in cosmetics as long as it’s derived from plants.
Cetearyl glucoside
* Formed by the condensation of cetearyl alcohol (fatty acid) with glucose. Can be naturally derived (from coconut/corn oil) or chemically synthesized.
Functions:
An emulsifier used in oil in water formulations. It helps skin and hair retain moisture, and gives a velvety after touch. You can find it in a variety of cosmetic products such as facial moisturizer, sunscreen, anti-aging treatment, eye cream, foundation, conditioner, body firming lotion, hand cream and cleanser.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The safety of this ingredient has not been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. Generally, it’s considered a mild ingredient not known to cause any irritation or sensitization on the skin.
Recommended Products w/ cetearyl glucoside:
Remergent Advanced Retinol Therapy ($56), Juice Beauty SPF 30 Mineral Light Moisturizer ($28)
Ceteareth-60 myristyl glycol
* A polyethylene glycol derivative.
* Ceteareths are made from cetearyl alcohol- a blend of cetyl and stearyl alcohol (natural fatty acids from coconut oil), and ethylene oxide. The numerical value represents the average number of molecules of ethylene oxide added.
Functions:
A nonionic emulsifying agent that helps thicken acqueous formulations. It’s generally used in shower/bath surfactant solutions (cleansing agents) such as shampoo, body wash and bubble bath. However, it can also be found in various other cosmetics such as facial moisturizer, cleanser, exfoliant/scrub and acne treatment.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The safety of ceteareth-60 myristyl glycol has not been assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. For more information on the safety of ceteareths, read the Safety Measures/Side Effects section for ceteareth-20.
Ceteareth-6 olivate
* The esther of ceteareth-6 and olive acid (derived from oilve oil). Sometimes referred to as Oliverm 800.
* Ceteareths are made from cetearyl alcohol- a blend of cetyl and stearyl alcohol (natural fatty acids from coconut oil), and ethylene oxide. The numerical value represents the average number of molecules of ethylene oxide added.
Functions:
A nonionic emulsifier that reduces the surface tension of the substances being emulsified. It works best in oil in water formulations with low viscosity (thickness), such as liquidy cremes, oil-free lotions and even spray on emulsions. The lipids contained in this ingredient derive from olive oil, and are thought to have the highest compatibility with skin out of all other natural lipids. Ceteareth-6 olivate quickly penetrates the skin to provide a deep hydration that has a light and non-greasy feel. It gives formulations good spreadability, and is compatible over a broad pH range.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Ceteareth-20
* A fatty alcohol.
* Ceteareths are made from cetearyl alcohol- a blend of cetyl and stearyl alcohol (natural fatty acids from coconut oil), and ethylene oxide. The numerical value represents the average number of molecules of ethylene oxide added.
Functions:
Functions as an emollient and emulsifier. It’s usually used in conjunction with other alcohols and fatty acids, working to thicken a solution and help other ingredients dissolve in a solvent. It also functions as a nonionic stabilizer in oil in water emulsions. This ingredient is one of the most common emollients used in cosmetics, and you can find it in products such as hair dye, facial moisturizer, anti-aging treatment, conditioner, cleanser, sunscreen, exfoliant/scrub, depilatory cream and acne treatment.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Ceresin
* A white/yellow wax derived from ozocerite, a naturally occurring fossil wax found near soft shale.
Functions:
A thickening agent that also keeps the oil and liquid parts of an emulsion from separating. As a wax, it helps harden lipid (oil) based solutions like pomade or balm. It also reduces brittleness and adds strength and stability to various stick cosmetics, such as lipstick. It’s valued for its stability and high melting point, and often functions as a substitute to Beeswax. This ingredient is primarily used in personal care products such as lipstick, lip/eye liner, lip gloss, eye shadow, facial moisturizer, mascara and anti-aging serum.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
This ingredient has been shown to cause dermal irritation and sensitization in some. The FDA has approved it as an indirect food additive to be used in adhesive products. The CIR Expert Panel evaluated this ingredient to be non-irritating and non-toxic, and recognizes it as safe to use in cosmetic products.
Ceramide
* A family of lipid molecules comprising of sphingosine and a fatty acid. Its found in high concentrations within the cell membrane of cells. See Truth In Aging’s Ceramide Post.
Functions:
Works as a hydrating agent. Making up for of 50% of our skin’s natural protective barrier, ceramides retain moisture levels in the skin and help regulate cell activity. Some studies have shown that adding ceramides to skincare products effectively replenishes the skin’s reduced ceramide levels. Further studies have that topical application can actually help rebuild and restore the epidermal barrier, strengthening the skin’s appearance and maximizing its moisture levels.
For years, ceramides were thought of simply a structural component to the lipid bilayer of all cell membranes, including the upper layer of skin. Interestingly though, recent studies reveal that they can also act as a signaling molecule that send messages to the rest of the body. The ’signal’ they perform is apostosis, programming a cell to die. This has made ceramide the subject of numerous studies on its role in treating cancer patients.
Centaurea cyanus flower extract
* Botanical Ingredient *
* An extract of the flowers from the plant annual plant (meaning it dies each year) centaurea cyanus. It’s native to Europe and produces bright blue flowers. Also known as cornflower extract.
Functions:
While a great deal of folklore and literary allusions surround this herbal ingredient, medicinally speaking, it is most commonly associated with eye care and as a treatment for conjunctivitis due to its anti-anti-inflammatory properties.
In cosmetics, it mainly works as an anti-inflammatory, skin conditioning agent and astringent. It’s rich in polyphenols, specifically flavonoids and anthocyanins. Because it is a rather expensive ingredient, it is not used as often as many other botanical ingredients, and when it is, it’s most often for an eye related product (i.e. eye cream). You may find centaurea cyanus extract in personal care products such as foundation, sunscreen, blush, facial moisturizer/lotion, eye shadow, facial powder, eye cream, anti-aging treatment and mascara.
Castoryl maleate
* Made by the reaction of castor oil with maleic anhydride. Comes in the form of a light yellow liquid. Sometimes referred to as Ceraphyl RMT.
Functions:
A conditioning agent that helps retain moisture on the skin for long periods of time. It’s particularly useful in depositing moisture in rinse-off cleansers, which tend to dehydrate the skin and strip its protective lipid barrier. In addition to cleanser, this ingredient is also used in cosmetic products such as body wash, liquid soap, shaving cream, facial moisturizer, concealer, foundation and anti-aging treatment.
Cassia angustifolia extract
* Botanical Ingredient *
* Extract of the seeds of cassia angustifolia, a native Indian plant. Commonly referred to as senna, cassia senna or alexandrian senna.
Functions:
The pharmacology world recognizes this ingredient as a powerful cathartic that relieves constipation, as well as an expectorant, wound dresser, antidysentric and and carminative. Sennasoides are frequently extracted from the plant and used as a natural laxative.
In cosmetics, it’s primarily used as a skin conditioning agent because of its high content of polysaccharides. In vitro tests have isolated the plant’s polysaccharides (Galactomannan) and shown them to mimic hyaluronic acid. Furthermore, studies demonstrated it to effectively repair dryness, provide long lasting suppleness & moisture, exhibit film-forming capacities and retain water on the surface of both skin and hair. In can also function as an anti-inflammatory and treatment for acne. You may find this botanical ingredient in cosmetic products such as sunscreen, foundation, facial moisturizer/lotion, anti-aging treatment, cleanser, hand & eye cream, skin fader/lightener, facial masque and toner.
Carrageenan
* A polysaccharide that’s extracted from seaweed.
Functions:
Works as a thickening agent, binder and hair conditioning agent. It has excellent water binding properties, as well as the ability to form gels at room temperature. They provide a wide array of textures and can stabilize a variety of formulations such as emulsion, foams and suspensions. Early research suggests that the topical application of carrageenan may even inhibit certain genital sexually transmitted diseases, mainly human papillomavirus (HPV). Cosmetic manufacturers value this ingredient because it can thin under stress and then recover its consistency once the stress is removed. In oter words, they are easy to pump but then stiffen again. You may find this ingredient in personal care products such as toothpaste, facial moisturizer, shampoo/conditioner, shaving cream, foundation, sunscreen and cleanser.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Carnosine
* Naturally occurring combination of two amino acids (alanine and histidine). Sometimes referred to as L-Carnosine. See Truth In Aging’s Carnosine Article.
Functions:
Works as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent. It functions as an anti-oxidant by neutralizing and disarming the free radicals responsible for attacking our DNA cells. It helps to chelate ionic metals (flush toxins from the body), it has immune boosting properties, and has been shown to reduce and prevent cell damage caused by beta amyloid (the substance found in the brain of Alzheimer patients). Most interestingly, many claim it can extend the Hayflick Limit (skin cells can only reproduce themselves around 52 times until they “die.” Carnosine extends their ability to reproduce to just over 60 times, making it a real anti-ager).
Carnitine
* A quartenary ammonium salt that the body naturally produces from the amino acids lysine and methionine. Sometimes referred to as L-Carnitine. See TIA’s article on carnitine and cellulite.
Functions:
Carbomer
* A series of synthetic polymers primarily made from acrylic acid. The come in the form of white, fluffy powders.
Functions:
Carbomers are thickening agents that help control the viscosity and flow of cosmetic products. They also help distribute and suspend insoluble solids into liquid, and prevent the oil and liquid parts of a solution from separating. They have the ability to absorb and retain water, and can swell up to 1000 times their original volume when dispersed in water. Generally, this class of ingredients is used in gel-like formulations because it forms a colloidal, mucilage-like consistency when mixed in water. On a cosmetic ingredient list, the name carbomer is sometimes associated with a number such as 910, 934, 940, 941 and 934P. These numbers simply represent the specific molecular weight and compositions of the polymer. This ingredient is contained in a wide range of personal care products such as styling gel, facial moisturizer, sunscreen, shampoo, anti-aging treatment, eye cream, cleanser and scrubs.
Carapa guaianensis seed oil
* Botanical Ingredient *
* Oil extracted from the compressed seeds of the Amazonian tree carapa guianensis. Also known as andiroba oil.
Functions:
For thousands of years, the Wayapi and Palikur Indians of the Amazon have used this oil to treat skin and muscle inflammations, fevers, ulcers, and skin parasites. They also relied on it for natural lamp fuel and as insect repellent, particularly because it does not have an unfavorable smell like most other insect repellents. Today, the people of Brazil frequently use it to treat arthritis, psoriasis and rheumatism. Research on this ingredient has demonstrated in vitro antibacterial activity, as well as antiparisitic and anti-tumor activity.
Caprylyl trimethicone
* A silicone that comes in the form of a clear liquid.
Functions:
This emollient is used to enhance the slip and reduce the tack in hair, skin care and makeup products. It offers a light and dry feel, and makes cosmetic solutions easy to spread over the face. It also functions as an effective wetting and dispersing agent. Like most silicones, caprylyl trimethicone has the ability to temporarily enhance the appearance of the face by filling in fine lines/wrinkles and giving an overall “plumped” look. This ingredient is particularly useful with foundations and eye shadow, but can also be found in other products such as facial moisturizer, anti-aging serum, anti-frizz gel, sunscreen, lipstick, hair gloss and eye cream.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
See Truth In Aging’s Silicone Article
Recommended Products w/ caprylyl trimethicone:
Caprylyl methicone
* An alkylmethyl silicone, in the form of a clear liquid.
Functions:
This ingredient is mainly used to give cosmetic products a silky smooth feel, an easy spreadability, and a reduced tackiness/greasiness from other oily ingredients. Like most silicones, caprylyl methicone has the ability to temporarily enhance the appearance of the face by filling in fine lines/wrinkles and giving an overall “plumped” look. In addition, it works as a co-solubilizer between silicone and organic oils, and helps carry and disperse the vitamins, pigments, hydrophobic powders and other ingredients contained in a cosmetic solution.
Cosmetic manufacturers highly value this ingredient because it’s compatible with various other organic ingredients such as esters, glycerides, fatty alcohols and acids, hydrocarbons, vegetable oils, sunscreen actives, hydrophilics, and silicones. Caprylyl methicone can also act as a gentle cleanser, and because it is completely volatile (meaning it evaporates), it does not leave any residue on the skin. Furthermore, it has been shown to improve the gloss and color intensity in lip stick and lip gloss. In addition to lip products, it can be found in cosmetic formulations such as eye shadow, sunscreen, facial moisturizer, anti-aging treatment, self tanner and eye cream.
Caprylyl glycol
* Can be plant derived or chemically synthesized.
Functions:
A humectant and skin conditioning agent that lends moisturization, emollience and wetting properties to many cosmetic solutions. It also function as a stabilizer and has been shown to increase the antimicrobial activity of other preservatives. In fact, it’s often used in a preservative blend containing phenoxyethanol and chloroxylenol, named Optiphen. Because of its multi-functioning nature (moisturizer & anti-microbial), it’s used in a plethora of personal care products such as facial moisturizer, sunscreen, anti-aging treatment, lip gloss, mascara, concealer, cleanser and foundation.
Recommended Products w/ caprylyl glycol:
Exederm Cleansing Wash, Aveda Green Science Firming Face Cream ($55), MD Skincare Lift & Lighten Eye Cream ($58)
Capryloyl salicylic acid
* The ester of salicylic acid. Sometimes referred to as LHA. See beta-hydroxy acid.
Functions:
A skin conditioning agent that works by enhancing the appearance of dry/damaged skin, reducing dry patches/flaking and restoring suppleness to the skin. As an ester of salicylic acid (aka beta hydroxy acid or BHA), it’s categorized as a BHA that works as an exfoliant, anti-inflammatory, and antiseptic. The skin care community regards it as an invaluable ingredient because of its multi-functional and versatile nature.
As a keratolytic agent, it exfoliates the skin by causing the cells of the epidermis (upper layer of skin) to shed more easily, making room for new cell growth. Higher concentrations (8-12%) of topically applied salicylic acid can effectively remove warts. Studies have documented concentrations as low as 2% to improve skin thickness, collagen production, wrinkling, roughness and hyperpigmentation over a time period of just 6 months. A study published in Dermatology Times showed a significant improvement in wrinkles in 41% of the subjects who regularly used an LHA (capryloyl salicylic acid) peel, and a substantial lightening of hyperpigmentation in 46% of the LHA users (compared to only 31% and 34%, respectively, for those who used glycolic peels).
Caprylic/capric triglycerides
* A mixed triester derived from coconut oil and glycerin. It comes in the form of an oily liquid, and is sometimes mistakenly referred to as fractionated coconut oil.
Functions:
Mainly works as an emollient, dispersing agent and solvent. As an emollient, it both quickly penetrates the surface to condition the skin/hair, and provides a lightweight and non-greasy barrier of lubrication. As a dispersing agent, it helps enhance the delivery of vitamins, pigments and other active ingredients contained in a solution so that they become evenly spread out and fully absorbed by the epidermis. It’s oily texture helps thicken cosmetic formulations and provides a slipperiness, which in turn allows for the easy spreadability of solutions and a smooth after-touch. Cosmetic manufacturers highly value this ingredient for its lack of color and odor, as well as for its stability. It possesses such great stability and resistance to oxidation, in fact, that it has an almost indefinite shelf life. You may find this ingredient in personal care products such as facial moisturizer, lipstick, anti-aging serums, sunscreen, foundation, eye cream and lip/eye liner.
Camellia sinensis leaf
* Botanical Ingredient *
* An extract of the leaves of the tea plant camellia sinensis. Commonly referred to as green tea extract. See Truth In Aging’s Green Tea Article.
Functions:
Biologically speaking, a significant amount of scientific evidence points to the antioxidant and anti-carcinogenic properties of green tea. Many studies, including those conducted by the American Association for Cancer Research and in the journal Preventative Medicine, have demonstrated how drinking green tea can help prevent the formation of cancerous tumors, in both mice and humans. While there are only limited studies to prove its effects on the skin (Source: Photodermatology, Photoimmunology, and Photomedicine, February 2007, pages 48–56), most skin experts generally recommend green tea as a powerful antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-aging ingredient.
Calendula officinalis
* Botanical Ingredient *
* Plat material derived from the flowers of Calendula officinalis, the common marigold. Also known as Pot Marigold or English Marigold. For more information, read TIA’s Calendula Article.
Functions:
Historically speaking, everyone from the Greeks, Romans, Indians and Arabs used this plant as a medicinal herb, dye and cooking ingredient. The petals, pollen and stems are rich in triterpenoid esters (an anti-inflammatory), antioxidants and carotenoids, giving the flower a wide array of functions. Today, it has a strong presence in pharmacology, in which it is used as a bactericide, antiseptic, antiviral and anti-inflammatory to treat various skin disorders and pain. According to NIH, grades for the quality of the scientific evidence regarding its purported properties are as follows: radiation dermatitis: B; otitis media (ear infection): C; skin inflammation: C; and wound healing: C.
Calcium sulfate
* A salt both chemically synthesized and naturally found in the soft mineral gypsum. Sometimes referred to as gypsum, alabaster, ”Plaster of Paris” or terra alba.
Functions:
A common industrial chemical known for its ability to trap moisture. This substance is most often used as a coagulant and desiccant (a substance that induces a state of dryness). Because this ingredient serves as the main component to materials such as drywall, plaster and cement, it plays a vital role in the construction industry. In addition, it can also function as a soil additive, an additive in turbid water (e.g. ponds, lakes), an orthopedic cast and a food additive.
Calcium pantothenate
* Salt of pantothenic acid (vitamin B5). Commonly found in plant and animal tissue. Sometimes referred to as pantothenic acid.
Functions:
Biologically, pantothenic acid (and its salts) is needed to form coenzyme-A, and plays a vital role in the metabolism and sysnthesis of carbohydrates, proteins and fats. Furthermore, when in the body the acid is converted to pantotheine, which is crucial for a healthy pregnancy and believed to help reduce cholesterol. Calcium pantothenate is often used as a dietary supplement because, as a salt, it’s more effectively absorbed by the body.
The cosmetic industry first began incorporating this ingredient when several studies showed a deficiency of pantothenic acid to cause hair loss and skin irritation. Since then, cosmetic manufacturers continue to use this ingredient, mainly functions as a hair/skin conditioning agent. It’s believed to work as a humectant, increasing the water content and elasticity of hair. Similarly, many regard it as a moisturizer and skin softener, that works by attracting moisture to the upper epidermis. Many also believe it to work as an effective anti-acne treatment.
Calcium pantetheine sulfonate
* The calcium salt of the S-sulfonate of pantetheine.
Functions:
Believed to work as a skin lightener/brightener. While its lightening effects have yet to be fully substantiated, there is a small amount of research showing that it inhibits the production of melanin (Source: Pigment Cell Research, June 2000, pages 165–171). Several other studies also suggest that it can encourage hair growth and work as an anti-inflammatory on the skin. This ingredient is contained in cosmetic products such as facial moisturizer, anti-aging treatment, foundation, age-spot treatment, facial masks and sunscreen.
Calcium ascorbate
* The salts of ascorbic acid (Vitamin C). Often referred to as Ester C.
Functions:
A salt of ascorbic acid, an essential nutrient that plays a pivotal role in the body’s collagen production, tissue repair, synthesis of neurotransmitters and resistance to infection. This ingredient mainly functions as an antioxidant in cosmetic products. It has many anti-aging benefits including building collagen, defending the skin against free-radicals, healing inflammations, reducing the appearance of fine lines & wrinkles and lightening discolorations.
It also conditions the skin, controls the pH level and preserves a finished product by slowing the possibility of deterioration caused by exposure to the air. You can find this cosmetic ingredient in a variety of products such as facial moisturizer, anti-aging treatment, sunscreen, mouthwash, eye cream, whitening toothpaste, age-spot lightening treatment, eye cream and cleanser.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Caffeine
* An organic compound that provides antioxidant protection from free radicals
* For more info, read TIA’s article about caffeine and skincare.
Functions:
Guaranteed to accompany any candy binge, a caffeine high portends a hard crash. Luckily, when caffeine does not have the same effect when absorbed by the skin. According to Dermaxime.com, caffeine not only aids with the absorption of other ingredients in skin care creams, but the acid in it functions as an antioxidant and may protect against sun-induced skin cancer. Whether delivered orally (in coffee) or topically (in skin cream), caffeine provides antioxidant protection from free radicals.
Also a vascoconstrictor, caffeine tends to reduce puffiness. By increasing blood flow and increasing the lipolytic effect, it blocks enzymes and decreases triglycerides breakage. This anti-inflammatory impact makes a difference when it comes to eye treatments. By constricting the blood vessels in the delicate eye area, caffeine can help temporarily reduce puffiness.
C9-15 fluoroalcohol phosphate
* A complex mixture of esters of phosphoric acid.
Functions:
A skin conditioner that helps thicken and extend the life of various skin care and makeup products. It mostly functions as a coating to pigmented solutions because it provides a good resistance to water and sebum. This, in turn, makes it an excellent ingredient for makeup products because it helps control shine and allows makeup to stay on the skin for long periods of time. It’s particularly popular with pigmented mineral powders, liquid foundation and SPF solutions. You can find this ingredient in products such as bronzer, blush, foundation, mascara, acne treatment, sunscreen, eye liner and facial moisturizer.
c20-22 alkyl phosphate
* Extracted from phosphoric rock.
Functions:
An anionic emulsifier, most often used to give cosmetic formulations a silky, velvety feel with a matte finish. Some suspect that it also has the ability to function as a UV absorber and antioxidant. It has been shown to work effectively in low doses. You can find this ingredient in personal care products such as sunscreen, facial moisturizer, anti-aging treatment, rosacea cream, bath oil, baby products, self tanner and foundation.
C13-14 Isoparaffin
* An emollient
Functions:
C13-14 Isoparaffin is a mixture of hydrocarbons (mineral oils) derived from petroleum, and is used in cosmetics and personal care products primarily as an emollient, and also considered a thickening agent or gelling ingredient (FaceProducts-Online). Little additional information is available regarding C13-14 Isoparaffin, and isoparaffins are simply defined as gelling or thickening agents; petroleum is a known moisturizer.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
However, petroleum can be contaminated with carcinogens and is blacklisted as an ingredient by the European Union. According to Marta’s post about Aquaphor and Petroleum Safety, “certain impurities may be in the petrolatum and they can cause allergies and even be a carcinogen. Cosmetics should use highly refined petroleum that has been cleaned of these impurities.”
c12-20 acid peg-8 ester
* A polyglycol ester of fatty acids. Sometimes referred to as Xalifin-15.
Functions:
An emulsifier that can also improve a cosmetic solution’s stability and water binding properties. As a non-ionic compound, it’s considered non-toxic and safe when applied to skin. It’s even gentle enough for individuals suffering from previous skin irritations, allergies or dermatitis. This ingredient is contained in many personal care products like facial moisturizer, sunscreen, foundation, anti-aging treatments, eye cream and cleanser.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Though this ingredient is considered safe to use on sensitive skin, PEG-8 has been known to cause irritation in some. If you encounter a product containing c12-20 acid peg-8 ester, be sure to do a small patch test on your forearm before fully applying it to the face.
For more information on PEG’s, read Claire’s post.
C12-15 alkyl lactate
* A synthetic compound derived from lactic acid and C12-15 alcohols. Also known as Ceraphyl 41.
Functions:
Primarily used as an emollient and solvent. Its emolliency helps give many lotions their desired creamy texture and thickness. As a moisturizer, it provides a non-oily lubrication that reduces the greasiness and tackiness of other ingredients, such as petroleum. In fact, it’s often used as a substitute for mineral oil because of its excellent moisturizing capabilities.
It’s easy to emulsify, and can also be used as a thickening and lathering agent in shampoos and body washes. When used in sunscreen, it helps solubilize Benzophenone-3 and avobenzone, two frequently used chemical UV absorbers. It can be found in personal care products such as self-tanner, facial moisturizer, aftershave lotion, fragrance, acne treatment, sunscreen, bubble bath and cleanser.
Recommended products w/ C12-15 alkyl lactate:
c12-15 alkyl benzoate
* An ester of benzoic acid.
Functions:
Mainly used as an emollient and thickening agent. Many cosmetic products contain this ingredient because it provides a light conditioning and silky after touch to the skin and hair. It’s also been shown to act as an antimicrobial agent and a preservative, particularly in products containing UV absorbers. You may find this ingredient in a variety of cosmetics such as sunscreen, facial moisturizer, anti-aging treatments, shampoo/conditioner, body wash, self tanner, eye cream, foundation and deodorant.
Recommended Products w/ c12-15 alkyl benzoate:
Dr Spiller’s Celltresor Cream, iQ Derma RestorEyes ($85), No-Melt Sunscreen by Elemis ($39)
C10-40 isoalkylamidopropylethyldimonium ethosulfate
* A quaternary ammonium compound (or QUAT).
Functions:
An anti-static and cationic hair conditioning agent. It’s used in a variety of hair products such as hair spray, shampoo/conditioner, anti-frizz serum and hair dye.
C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer
* A synthetic copolymer.
Functions:
A film forming agent that creates a flexible and cohesive protective film over the skin/hair for long periods of time, thus helping to retain moisture. It also works to control the thickness and stability of a solution. You can find this ingredient in a plethora of cosmetic products such as facial moisturizer, sunscreen, cleanser, baby lotions, anti-aging treatment, eye cream, hair dye and hair styling gel.
Recommended Products w/ C10-30 alkyl acrylate crosspolymer:
MD Skincare Lift & Lighten Eye Cream ($58), Murad Firm & Tone Serum ($75), Your Best Face Control ($160)
c10-18 triglycerides
* A tri-ester of glycerin and chain fatty acids.
Functions:
Primarily acts as an emollient, skin conditioning agent and solvent. A combination of a multitude of solid fats and liquid oils, its specific chemical composition is responsible for giving cosmetic formulations excellent water binding and thickening abilities. It’s most often used in products such as concealer, powder, sunscreen and eye cream.
