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D
Dodecahydro3a,6,6,90-tetramethylnaphtho(2,1b)furan
* A perfume ingredient
Functions:
Also known as (-)-norlabdane oxide, Dodecahydro3a,6,6,90-tetramethylnaphtho(2,1b)furan is used to reduce the overall amount of fragrance needed to produce sufficient aroma in beauty products and perfumes, primarily in scented deodorants (Patent Information).
There are no known adverse side effects or warnings for this ingredient.
DMDM Hydantoin
* Preservative that contains formaldehyde
Functions:
DMDM Hydantoin is a controversial ingredient because of its formaldehyde properties. Although the releasing of formaldehyde is the process that makes the environment less favorable for microorganisms (source), this process is what makes it an effective cleanser and preservative in many beauty products. According to RealSelf.com, it is primarily found in shampoo, conditioner, make up bases and foundations.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
DMDM Hydantoin is sometimes considered dangerous because of its toxic formaldehyde component, although the percentage is so small that it has been approved safe by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel. It can cause irritation or an allergic reaction on sensitive skin.
Recommended Products w/ DMDM Hydantoin:
ReLuma Skin Illuminating Anti-Aging Serum, Ahava Anti-Dandruff Shampoo, IQ Derma RestorEyes, Anthony Logistics After Shave Balm, Xen-Tan Transform Gradual Self Tan
DMAE
* See TIA’s listing of Dimethyl Mono Aminoethanol Bitartrate
* A liquid, organic compound also known as Dimethylethanolamine
Functions:
DMAE is often used as a treatment for a variety of ailments and diseases, from Attention Deficit Disorder to hangovers. However, as a skin care product, it’s been referred to as “A Facelift in a Jar” and is thought to firm the skin by stabilizing the membranes, boosting acetylcholine, or reducing lipofuscin deposits. Whatever the mechanism, the effect of DMAE is not considered dramatic, but does often create noticeable results (Smart Skin Care). It does not provide the same results as a surgical face lift, but does reduce further facial sagging that occurs with aging. Even though DMAE can’t fully reverse the existing facial sag, it may reduce its further progression.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Distearyldimonium Chloride
* Positively-charged surfactant
Functions:
Although Distearyldimonium Chloride is primarily used in hair conditioners, it is also found in many skin creams because of its moisturizing and smoothing properties. According to The Beauty Brains, the positive charges in Distearyldimonium Chloride react with the negatively charged proteins on the skin and don’t completely rinse off or become absorbed. This leaves a silky coating that leaves the skin feeling smooth.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Distearyldimonium Chloride is generally created synthetically and is relatively gentle, but can be irritating to sensitive skin. There are some concerns that it may be toxic but these are ultimately dismissed (source).
Recommended Products w/ Distearyldimonium Chloride:
Curel Youth Defense Moisture Lotion, Gold Bond Ultimate Restoring Skin Therapy Lotion
disteareth-75 IPDI
* A non-ionic emulsifier
Functions:
Disteareth-74 IPDI is an emulsifier and thickener used in cleaners and soaps, as well as makeup removers and baby shampoos. Its use in baby shampoos and makeup removers indicates that it is a gentle ingredient, although very little research is available.
According to a chemical specialist, an emulsifier is a type of surfactant typically used to keep emulsion (mixtures of immiscible fluids) well dispersed; the emulsifiers will surround an oil (or other immiscible molecule) and form a protective layer so that the oil molecules cannot “clump” together. This action helps keeps the dispersed phase in small droplets and preserves the emulsion.
There are no warnings regarding the use of Disteareth-75 IPDI.
Disteardimonium Hectorite
* A vegetable-derived suspending agent used to thicken oil-based products and serve as a stabilizer for emulsions
Functions:
This creamy, white powder is found in many face and skin creams, as well as deodorant, foundation, and lipstick. According to The Personal Formulator it has predictable, reproducible and stable viscosity control. Its sheer-thinning flow provides great suspension for other ingredients that would otherwise sink. Disteardimonium Hectorite is an organically modified magnesium silicate and a natural mineral.
There are no known side effects to Disteardimonium Hectorite.
Recommended Products with Disteardimonium Hectorite:
Lorac Natural Performance Foundation, Dr. Spiller’s Celltresor Cream and Gel, Kose Seikisho Facial Cleansing Mousse, L’oreal Visible Lift with ‘Serum Inside’
Disodium succinate
* This is an organic salt used in beauty products
There is very little information regarding disodium succinate. There are no warnings found for the safety or side effects of this ingredient.
Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate
* Emulsifier derived from coconut and amino acids
Functions:
According to the Cosmetic Database, Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate is an organic compound used in foundation, sunscreen, spf products, concealer, anti-aging products, facial powder and moisturizer. Little information is available about this ingredient, but it is noted as a surfactant, consistency regulator, and moisturizer.
No side effects were noted for Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate.
Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates
* Two main complexes in a new derivative of Vitamin E
* Prevent and treat skin inflammation and dryness
Functions:
Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates (DLTP) is used for acne treatment, scar treatment, rosacea treatment, and as a moisturizer, conditioner ingredient, sunscreen component, and for anti-aging. According to a study by Phosphogenics, isolating the DLTP from Vitamin E and repurposing it works best when applied before acne, rosacea, or other irritants appear on the skin. Although it does decrease redness and inflammation if applied to an irritated area, it works wonderfully to prevent dry skin, hair, sunburn, or any other type of inflammation of the skin. Eventually, DLTP will be used to treat diaper rash, underarm irritation, and shaving irritation.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
According to Cosmetic Science Technology, there are no major safety concerns associated with DLTP.
Recommended Product with Disodium Lauriminodipropionate Tocopheryl Phosphates:
Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate
* An de-greasing ingredient often found in cleaning products, including shampoo
* Also known as MES
Functions:
According to the Gateway Group, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate is a cleaning agent that is gentle to skin. Even in high consistency, it still causes little irritation. It also has good cleaning ability, resistance to hard water, medium foaming ability, easiness of rinsing, good smoothness and biodegradation. It’s found in 95% of commercial shampoos (Source) and acts as a degreaser by binding to dirt and oil on the hair and scalp. It leaves hair clean and shiny and is also found in bubble bath, facial and hand cleanser, dishwasher detergent, etc. Basically, Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate is found in any cleaning agent that foams.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Disodium EDTA
* a salt of edetic acid.
Functions:
Cosmetic manufacturers frequently use this ingredient for a variety purposes. It primarily works as a preservative, chelator and stabilizer, but has also been shown to enhance the foaming and cleaning capabilities of a cosmetic solution. As a metal chelator, it counteracts the adverse effects of hard water by binding with heavy metal ions contained in tap water, which in turn prevents the metals from being depositied onto the skin, hair and scalp. This makes it a particularly useful ingredient for rinse-off products that inherently require water to come into contact with the skin. Essentially, this ingredient deactivates the metal ions through bonding with them, which inturn prevents cosmetic products from deteriorating, maintains its clarity and prevents it from smelling rancid. You can find this ingredient in virtually every personal care product including facial moisturizer/lotion, sunscreen, anti-aging treatment, cleanser, shampoo/conditioner, hair dye, body wash and eye cream.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Disodium distyrylbiphenyl disulfonate
* Sometimes referred to by its trade name Tinopal CBS-X. For more info, read this TIA Article.
Functions:
This multi-purpose ingredient functions as a stabilizer, hair conditioning agent, surfactant, viscocity (thickness) controlling agent and UV absorber. Many skin care companies market it as an optical brightener, one that absorbs light to make the face look whiter. It can be found in products such as anti-aging treatment, bar soap, eye cream and facial moisturizer.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Topical application has been shown to irritate the skin & eyes. Animal Studies have shown low doses of this ingredient to cause irritation and organ effects at low doses. It’s best that individuals with sensitive skin only use this ingredient in rinse-off products, or avoid it alltogether.
Disodium cocoamphodiacetate
* Derived from the fatty acids found in coconut oil. An imidazoline-derived amphoteric organic compound.
Functions:
This surfactant works as a mild foaming agent, cleanser and skin/hair conditioner. As a foam booster, it increases a solution’s foaming capacity by increasing the surface viscosity of the liquid which surrounds the individual bubbles in a foam. It cleans the skin/hair by enabling water to mix with oil & dirt particles, and rinse them off the surface. It’s highly valued for cleansing the skin/hair without stripping it of its natural oils, and is thus incorporated into many “moisturizing” cosmetic cleaning products.
Furthermore, it’s particularly effective as a hair conditioning agent, because it helps improve the look and feel of dry/damaged hair by restoring it with body, suppleness and sheen. A mild and non-irritating ingredient, its apprpriate for even the most sensitive skin types and gentle enough for baby products. You can find this ingredient in a wide variety of personal care products such as shampoo/conditioner, facial cleanser, body wash, acne treatment, exfoliant/scrub, mascara and eye makeup remover.
Dipotassium glycyrrhizate
* Botanical Ingredient *
* A salt derived from the licorice plant. Also known as licorice root extract.
Functions:
This skin conditioning agent works to improve the appearance of dry/damaged skin by reducing flaking and restoring suppleness, and also functions as an anti-irritant with anti-inflammatory and skin soothing capabilities. In fact, clinical tests point to the ingredient as an effective treatment for atopic dermatitis.
Furthermore, studies suggest it may also inhibit the skin’s tyrosinase activity and melanin production, making it a potential lightening/brightening agent that prevents hyper-pigmentation. Further studies have shown it to help reduce the redness and irritation commonly associated with various ailments such as Rosacea, Psoriasis and acne. It can be found in personal care products such as facial moisturizer/lotion, anti-aging treatment, sunscreen, acne treatment, cleanser, foundation, skin fader/lightener, facial masque and eye cream.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Dipeptide-2
* A dipeptide consisting of the standard amino acids valine and tryptophan.
Functions:
Mainly works as a skin conditioning agent. It’s also believed to improve lymphatic circulation, and for this reason is often used in eye creams aiming to combat dark and puffy under-eye circles. Many cosmtic manufacturers market it as clinically proven to reduce under-eye bagginess and puffiness, however, it’s difficult to find any published (and unbiased) “clinical” data supporting such claims.
Yet, putting all questions surrounding the validity of such de-puffing claims aside, the amino acid structure of this ingredient does make it an effective skin conditioner. Because its structure resembles that of the lipid content of of the epidermis, it’s considered to be a Natural Moisturizing Factor (NMF). As an NMF, it helps keep the intercellular structure of the epidermis intact, facilitates the skin’s healing process, prevents dermal irritation and may even regenerate the skin. In fact, several animal studies suggest that the topical application of dipeptide-2 may act as a growth promoter because of its ability to increase the skin’s protein synthesis and amino acid uptake. You can find this ingredient in a variety of cosmetic products such as eye cream, anti-aging treatment, facial moisturizer/lotion, sunscreen, body lotion and eye makeup.
Dipeptide diaminobutyroyol benzylamide diacetate
* A synthetic neuro peptide.
Functions:
This skin conditioning agent is categorized as a neuro-peptide, and believed to block the body’s uptake of Na+, which in turn causes the facial muscles to relax and prevent the formation of expression lines (wrinkles). For this reason, it’s mostly used in anti-aging products that are specifically designed to provide a safer alternative to botox. It serves as the active ingredient contained in SY-NAKE- an anti-wrinkle product that claims this ingredient to mimic the effects of Walgerin 1- a peptide found in snake venom known for its muscle relaxing properties. Unfortunately, most of the availble data supporting the ingredient’s anti-aging abilities is far too biased and subjective to be taken seriously. You may find this ingredient in only a handful of skin care products such as anti-aging serum, eye cream and facial moisturizer/lotion.
Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate
* A quaternary ammonium salt that’s synthetically derived from palm oil. Sometimes referred to by its trade name Ammonyx.
Functions:
This cationic emulsifier primarily works as an anti-static agent, and secondarily as a hair conditioning and detangling ingredient. It’s known for helping to soften and moisturize the hair, and can also work as a wetting agent in cosmetic products. As a plant derived ingredient, it’s generally regarded as environmentally safe and known to possess above average biodegradability capabilities. Thus, many cosmetic manufacturers are increasingly incorporating it into their products. While this ingredient can help enhance the lubricity and softening properties of o/w creams and lotions, it’s mostly used in hair products such as shampoo/conditioner, anti-dandruff treatment, detangler and after-sun product.
Dimethylmethoxy chromanol
* A synthetic vitamin E analog. Sometimes referred to as Lipochroman-6
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: Free Radicals and Lipochroman-6
Functions:
Mainly works as an anti-oxidant in cosmetic products. Lipochroman-6 is a high potency anti-oxidant that’s believed to inhibit tyrosinase activity and peroxynitrite formation- one of the main culprits behind lipide peroxidation and cell damage (2 huge skin agers). It’s supposed to work by capturing free radical nitrogen and oxygen molecules in the body. Lipochroman-6 is a synthetic analog of gamma-tocopherol, but has been proven to have >20 times its anti-oxidant activity. It can therefore be used in very low concentrations. While this ingredient is a relatively new one, extensive data exists demonstrating it as a potent antioxidant. You can find it in skin care products such as facial moisturizer, sunscreen and anti-aging treatment.
Recommended Products w/ dimethylmethoxy chromanol:
Osmotics Anti Radical Age Defense, Zelens Radical Defense Serum
Dimethylamine
* A secondary amine that comes in the form of a colorless liquid. Sometimes referred to as anhydrous dimethylamine or DMA.
Functions:
In the cosmetic industry, this ingredient serves as a precursor to various other ingredients, mainly solvents, surfactants and skin/hair conditioners. It’s commonly used to create lauryl dimethylamine oxide (common soap ingredient), stearamidopropyl dimethylamine (common hair conditioner ingredient), behenamidopropyl dimethylamine behenate (common anti-static ingredient) and oleamidopropyl dimethylamine (common emulsifier). It can be found in mostly cleansers and hair products like shampoo & conditioner.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
This ingredient is well known for causing severe irritations to the skin, eyes and mucous membranes. Studies have shown that short term skin contact may cause minor irritations, and that prolonged contact may result in necrosis of the skin. Furthermore, available data suggests that it may act as a carcinogen and toxin to the immune system, respiratory system, nervous system and liver. For this reason, the European Union has set restrictions on its use.
Dimethyl mono aminoethanol bitartrate
* Often referred to as DMAE. For more info read TIA’s articles What is it: DMAE anti-ager or cell killer? and What is it? DMAE versus Retinol
Skin tightening
DMAE. Very little research to back up skin tightening claims. Anecdotally, results are subtle rather than dramatic. It may work by reducing lipofuscin deposits. A 2007 study published in the British Journal of Dermatology raised concerns about DMAE’s potential to damage skin cells.
Recommended Products w/ DMAE:
Nutra-Lift Rejuvenating Therapy, Nutra Luxe Men Only Daily Moisturizer, PRESCRIBEDsolutions Brightening Boosters
Dimethyl isosorbide
* Sometimes referred to as Arlasolve DMI or DMI.
Functions:
Primarily works as a solvent, and secondarily as a viscosity decreasing (reducing thickness) agent. It has been found that dimethyl isosorbide can effectively penetrate the skin, because it has the ability to dissolve loose fat in the skin so that it can carry across the skin membrane. Thus, it’s greatly valued as a solvent because of its tendency to enhance the delivery of other ingredients contained in a cosmetic formulation, even those that are water soluble. In fact, its solvent action can enable it to effectively reach the source of a skin disorder. This partiular quality can be especially beneficial when feeding the skin with antioxidants. Studies have documented its ability to enhance the skin lightening, antioxidant and other skin properties of ferulic acid and its esters.
Dimethyl ether
* The simplest ether, produced by the dehydration of methanol. It comes in the form of a colorless gas.
Functions:
This ingredient works as a solvent, aerosol propellant and viscosity decreasing (reducing thickness) agent in cosmetic products. As a solvent, it prevents other ingredients from separating from a solution, and helps cosmetic formulations maintain their clarity even when they’ve been exposed to extreme temperatures. When used in conjunction with propane, it’s also been shown to effectively remove warts. Mostly, however, cosmetic manufacturers include dimethyl ether as a propellant ingredient for aerosol products, particularly those of the hair care variety. You can find this ingredient in personal care products such as hair spray, styling mousse/foam, self tanner, hair dye, sunscreen, anti-aging treatment, anti-fungal treatment, cleanser and wart removal treatment.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Dimethyl ether has yet to be assessed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel. However, it’s prone to causing skin irritations, highly flammable and slightly toxic when inhaled. As a result, several countries, such as Japan, have prohibited its use.
Dimethiconol
* A silicone. For more info, read TIA’s Silicone Article.
Functions:
This ingredient functions as a skin/hair conditioner, anti-foaming agent and emollient. Like most silicones, this ingredient has a unique fluidity that makes it easily spreadable. When applied to the skin, its known for creating a subtle gloss that feels smooth and silky to touch. It also acts a mild water repellent by forming a protective barrier on the skin, and can fill in fine lines/wrinkles on the face, giving it a temporary “plump” look.
The cosmetic industry values this ingredient for its ability to impart a non-greasy emollience that makes the skin/hair look smooth and silky. It’s known to provide a less greasy feel than standard silicones without sacrificing any of its lubrication properties. As a heavier silicone, it’s often used in conjunction with lighter silicones that help better deliver it to the skin/hair, such as cyclopentasiloxane. This is particularly true when it comes to conditioning hair care products. It can be found in avariety of personal care products such as facial moisturizer/lotion, mascara, anti-frizz treatment, anti-aging treatment, sunscreen, shampoo/conditioner, styling gel and foundation.
dimethicone/vinyltrimethylsiloxysilicate crosspolymer
* A silicone based polymer used in moisturizing lotions
Functions:
Dimethicone
* A silicone based polymer. Also referred to as polydimethylsiloxane. For more info, read TIA’s Silicone Article.
Functions:
One of the most widely used ingredients in cosmetics, dimethicone works as an anti-foaming agent, skin protectant and skin & hair conditioner- it prevents water loss by forming a hydrating barrier on the skin. Like most silicones, this ingredient has a unique fluidity that makes it easily spreadable. When applied to the skin, its known for creating a subtle gloss that feels smooth and silky to touch. It also acts a mild water repellent by forming a protective barrier on the skin, and can fill in fine lines/wrinkles on the face, giving it a temporary “plump” look.
Diisostearyl Malate
Functions:
A skin conditioning agent and emollient. This ingredient is predominantly used in lip products such as lipstick and lip gloss, although it can also be found in cosmetics such as hair dye, eye shadow, sunscreen, eye liner, bronzer/highlighter and blush.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Dermititis in Japanese study
Diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate
* A heavy ester derived from essential fatty acids. Sometimes referred to by its trademark name Schercemol PDD Ester.
Functions:
A skin conditioning agent and emollient that also functions as an excellent dispersing agent in pigmented solution. It’s also known to provide long lasting coverage and enhance the water-resistant properties of various cosmetic fomulations, particularly with makeup, SPF and hair products. It’s mostly used in products such as sunscreen, lipstick, styling gel, facial moisturizer/lotion, foundation and mascara.
Recommended Products w/ diisostearoyl polyglyceryl-3 dimer dilinoleate:
Diisopropyl dimer dilinoleate
* Produced from the reaction of isopropyl alcohol and dilinoleic acid, an essential fatty acid derived from vegetable oils. It comes in the form of a clear to slightly hazy liquid.
Functions:
A rich lubricant and moisturizer that helps give the skin a soft and smooth appearance. It also functions as an excellent dispersing agent for pigmented solutions. It’s mainly used in makeup products such as lipstick, eye shadow, lip gloss and foundation, but can also be found in facial moisturizer, sunscreen and anti-aging treatment.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
This ingredient has not been shown to be irritating, carcinogenic or toxic. Both the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel and the EU Cosmetics Directive have reviewed the safety of this ingredient and determined it as safe to use in OTC personal care products. When topically applied, diisopropyl dimer dilinoleate remains on top of the skin and barely (if at all) penetrates the epidermis. For this reason, high concentrations of this ingredient are still believed to be safe. In fact, it’s deemed safe to use in concentrations as high as 53% in lipsticks.
diisopropyl adipate
* A non-oily emollient with rapid absorbency
Functions:
Diisopropyl Adipate is a viscous liquid that acts as a lubricant on the skin’s surface. According to CosmeticsInfo.org, it is not only used to give skin a soft, smooth appearance, but is added to cosmetic products to soften synthetic compounds. It serves as an emollient or solvent that absorbs rapidly. The adipate component is often used as a cosmetic base in products such as perfumes, colognes, aftershave lotions, skin cleansers, foundations and lipsticks.
There are no known negative side effects to diisopropyl adipate beyond the usual warnings regarding allergic reactions.
Dihydroxyacetone
* Also known as DHA
* The primary active ingredient in sunless tanners
* See TIA’s article that explains Dihydroxyacetone
Functions:
Dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is a simple carbohydrate that is primarily used as an ingredient in sunless tanning products. It is often derived from plant sources such as sugar beets and sugar cane, by the fermentation of glycerin. DHA is the only FDA approved sunless tanning ingredient and can be found in all sunless tanners. Products contain DHA in concentrations ranging from 1% to 15%, according to The New Zealand Dermatological Society. The artificial tan takes 2 to 4 hours to begin appearing on the skin surface, and will continue to darken for 24 to 72 hours, depending on formulation type.
Dihydrocoumarin
* A heterocyclic compound found in melilotus officinalis (sweet clover).
Functions:
Mainly used as a flavor additive in beverages, gelatins, puddings, candy, and other food items. In cosmetics, it’s used as a fragrance ingredient and preservative in products such as perfume, moisturizer, soap and cream.
Side Effects/Safety Measures:
Two year animal studies administered by the National Toxicology Program reveal some evidence for carcinogenic activity. Furthermore, according a 2005 study published in the Public Library of Science, this ingredient may quicken the aging process by inhibiting sirtuin deacetylases, a process which is crucial to the regulation of healthy aging. In fact, increased sirtuin has been shown to increase longevity in yeast, roundworms and fruit flies, and inhibition of the enzyme has been shown to decrease the lifespan of yeast by as much as 30%. Further studies have demonstrated similar evidence suggesting that dihydrocoumarin may, in fact, hasten the aging process and increase cell toxicity.
Diethylhexyl carbonate
* An ester oil. Sometimes referred to by its trade name Tegosoft DEC.
Functions:
A skin conditioning agent that provides light and non-greasy emollience to the skin. It’s well known for its low-viscous texture and good spread-ability, and is often used as a substitute for silicone and siloxane ingredients such as cyclopentasiloxane. You can find this ingredient in personal care products such as foundation, sunscreen, facial moisturizer, concealer, anti-aging treatment, bronzer/highlighter and body lotion.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
This ingredient is generally thought of as mild and gentle enough for sensitive skin. With regards to its safety, it’s scheduled to be reviewed by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel sometime in 2009.
Recommended Products w/ diethylhexyl carbonate:
Dicaprylyl ether
* A plant derived oil. Sometimes referred to as dioctyl ether or by its trademark name Cetiol OE.
Functions:
A skin conditioner, emollient and solvent that’s primarily used to create a smooth and soft appearance for the skin. Unlike most emollients, it provides a dry and non-greasy feel to the skin, which makes it an excellent choice for powder formulations like deodorant. It’s also known for its fast spreading capabilities, and is thus used to help facilitate the spreadability of many slow spreading ingredients. It can be found in cosmetic products such as facial moisturizer/lotion, sunscreen, doedorant, hair dye, foundation, anti-aging treatment, eye cream, self tanner and shampoo.
Recommended Products w/ dicaprylyl ether:
Dicaprylyl carbonate
* A soild, plant-derived fat. Sometimes referred to as the trademark name Cetiol® CC.
Functions:
A skin conditioner and emollient that works by providing a protective film and enhancing the skin’s lipid layer. It’s often categorized as a “dry emollient” because of its ability to moisturize the skin, making it feel soft and smooth without leaving a greasy residue behind. It has excellent spreadability, and leaves a dry, velvety feel to the skin similar to how a silicone would. Furthermore, it emulsifier easily and, has long-term emulsion stability and facilitates the application of slow spreading ingredients. For this reason, it’s often used in sunscreens containing ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, an ingredient that is notoriously difficult to spread over the skin. You can find this ingredient in various personal care products such as facial moisturizer/lotion, sunscreen, anti-aging treatment, rosacea treatment, eye cream, baby oil and cleanser.
Dibutyloctyl sebacate
* Liquid oil of Diester made from Sebacic Acid and 2-Butyloctanol
Functions:
This ingredient primarily functions as a cleansing oil and dispersing agent for pigment. Its rich & oily texture makes it an effective solubilizer for poorly soluble ingredients. It can be found in cosmetic products such as cleansing creme, facial moisturizer/lotion, shampoo/conditioner and hair dye.
Diazolidinyl Urea/Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
* A synergistic blend of two preservatives
* A vegetable-derived preservative with the trade name Germall Plus
* See TIA’s Diazolidinyl Urea
Functions:
Diazolidinyl Urea, when combined in synergy with Iodopropoynyl Butylcarbamate, simply increase the effectiveness of Diazolidinyl Urea on its own as a skin moisturizer. Diazolidinyl Urea is a white powder that releases formaldehyde in the skin, allowing for greater natural moisture. Idopropynyl Butylcarbamage (IPBC) is a white crystalline powder that contains iodine (Source, Source). According to a Study, the small percentage of these two chemicals in skin moisturizers is not dangerous and is used to increase moisture in skin.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Diazolidinyl urea
* It comes in the form of white powder.
Functions:
An antimicrobial that’s predominantly used as a preservative in cosmetic products, protecting them from from the bacteria, yeast and molds known to cause spoilage. It can be found in virtually every type of personal care products including as facial moisturizer/lotion, sunscreen, anti-aging treatment, cleanser, styling gel, foundation, shampoo/conditioner, eye cream, deodorant and mouthwash.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
A lot of controversy surrounds the safety of diazolidinyl urea. Many believe it to be both toxic and carcinogenic, mainly due to the fact that it’s a proven formaldehyde releaser. However, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel evaluated the available data on this ingredient (and reevaluated it in 2006) and concluded it as safe to use on cosmetic products at a maximum concentration of .5%. Their studies demonstrated it to be neither toxic nor photosensitizing. However, tests did show it to produce mild skin irritations in some (1 out of 1000), so this ingredient should probably avoided by those with very sensitive skin.
Diacetyl boldine
* Extracted from the bark of the Chilean Boldo tree. Sometimes referred to as DAB or by its trademark name Lumiskin.
Functions:
This ingredient works as a skin lightening agent in skin care products. Its molecular structure resembles that of stress receptors, which leads many to believe that it has the ability to simultaneously block stress receptors and inhibit the body’s melanin production (skin pigmentation). For this reason, it’s often used to combat hyper-pigmentation, age spots and melasma. Small studies overseen by Louis Rinaldi, the managing director of cosmetics development at Bremenn research labs, demonstrated DAB to lighten pigmentation by 25% in test subjects who applied the ingredient daily for two months. However, a great deal of further research is required to substantiate these findings. You can be find diacetyl boldine in cosmetic products such as facial moisturizer/lotion, anti-aging treatment, cleanser, sunscreen, skin fader/lightener, concealer, toner and acne treatment.
Dehydroacetic acid
* A cyclic ketone that comes in the form of an odorless, white powder.
Functions:
A fungicide and bactericide predominantly used as a preservative in cosmetics. It works by killing off and preventing the growth of microorganisms that contribute to a product’s decay. It can be found in personal care products such as eye shadow, facial moisturizer/lotion, blush, anti-aging treatment, lip gloss, mascara, facial powder, cleanser and exfoliant.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The FDA permits this ingredient to be used as an indirect food additive for use in adhesives. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel assessed the safety of dehydroacetic acid and concluded that it is safe to use in cosmetic products. Clinical tests showed little to no evidence regarding the ingredient’s toxicity and potential for irritation. The EU Cosmetics Directive also permits this ingredient to be used in personal care products at a maximum concentration of .6%.
Decyl oleate
* Made from the naturally occurring fatty acid, oleic acid.
Functions:
Primarily used as a lubricant. It creates a thin, non-greasy film that gives the skin a smooth and soft appearance. It’s frequently used used in products geared at removing makeup. You can find this ingredient in cosmetics such as facial moisturizer/lotion, anti-aging treatment, sunscreen, eye shadow, hand & foot cream, conditioner, aftershave and eye cream.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel has assessed this ingredient as non-toxic and non-irritating, thus determining it as safe to use in cosmetic products. It has been shown to be comedogenic (clog the pores), and should be avoided by those with oily and acne prone skin types.
Recommended Products w/ decyl oleate:
Decyl glucoside
* A plant derived polyglucoside. It’s made by reacting glucose with decanol, a derivative of coconut.
Functions:
A non-ionic surfactant that’s used as a cleansing agent. It’s gentle enough for sensitive skin and can be used in baby products. It also possesses moisture binding properties that help make the skin feel smooth and soft. It can be found various personal care products such as facial cleanser, body wash, shampoo, liquid hand soap, hair dye, self tanner, exfoliant and bubble bath.
Recommended Products w/ decyl glucoside:
Exederm Cleansing Wash ($12.99), Christophe Robin Creme Lavante Au Citron ($52)
DEA-cetyl phosphate
* Also goes by the trademark name Amphisol.
Functions:
An emulsifier that keeps the oil and water parts of a solution from separating. It can be found in cosmetic products such as sunscreen, facial moisturizer/lotion, cleanser, eye cream, mascara and foundation.
D-Boldus
* Found in the Chilean Boldus Tree
* Also referred to as Peumus Boldus
Functions:
D-Boldus is a natural herb found in the evergreen shrub in the Andrean regions of Chile and Peru and in Morocco. According to Healthline.com, it is considered an anti-inflammatory and an antioxidant. Although it is used as an ingredient in skin creams, it is traditionally ingested as a tonic.
It’s been used in folk medicine as an herbal remedy for a variety of ailments. The leaves of the Boldus tree are used in creating analgesics and antiseptics. They’ve been used to create an herbal cure for gonorrhorea in South America and are also used in the treatment of liver disease, gallstones, urinary tract infections, intestinal parasites and rheumatism (Source).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
D-beta glucosamine
* Builds collagen and elastin
Functions:
A skin strengthening agent found in Chinese Foxglove, D-beta glucosamine is an amino derivative of glucose and is used as a pH adjuster in skincare (source). According to Naturopathica, it is a major amino sugar that makes the natural moisturizing factor NMF. Microscopically, beta-glucosamine, applies dryness in skin when applied in a cream or moisturizer and and helps with exfoliation. Because it is smaller than most amino sugars, it penetrates skin more deeply than many other ingredients and therefore leads to higher efficacy.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
There are no warnings regarding side effects for D-beta glucosamine. As always, any topical cream can cause irritation or allergic reaction on sensitive skin.
Recommended Products w/ D-beta Glucosamine:
D-beta fructan
* A naturally occurring sugar with moisture binding and skin-softening properties
* Witchhazel
Functions:
According to The Vital Therapy Store, D-beta fructan is a polysaccharide that stimulates the immune function of the skin. It is found in mushroom extracts and has been found to improve immune function of the skin (and the entire body). Its properties are similar to aloe vera polysaccharides and guides the activity of glucosamine into the cellular compartments that oversee the skin’s moisture retention. It has also been used as an anti-inflammatory agent and as a building block of collagen and elastin.
There are no documented warnings or negative side effects for D-beta fructan.
Recommended Product w/ D-beta Fructan:
