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Euphrasia Officinalis
* An plant-derived eye soother
* Also known as Eyebright
Functions:
Euphrasia Officinalis’ (Eyebright) astringent properties account for its usefulness as a topical treatment for under-eye puffiness and dark circles. It counteracts inflammation and reduces mucous drainage, thanks to its high levels of iridoid glycosides, flavonoids, and tannins. Eyebright was and continues to be used primarily as a poultice for the topical treatment of eye inflammations, including blepharitis, conjunctivitis, and styes. It’s known to give rapid relief from redness, swelling, and visual disturbances in eye infections, although should only be used under doctor’s supervision when used as a treatment for an eye infection (Source).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
There are no known side effects for Euphrasia Officinalis, although it should only be used under supervision if an eye infection is suspected. Although Eyebright is considered an herbal remedy for eye infections, as an under-eye cream or applied directly, it can irritate an eye infection if not used properly.
Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax
* A plant derived substitute for beeswax or carnauba wax
Functions:
Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax is a multifunctional complex of natural wax esters derived from the waxy leaf structure of Candelilla shrubs found in the Southwest United States and Mexico (Source). It increases the residence time of natural emollients on the skin and to help provide a protective, moisture resistant environment for skin, according to The Environmental Working Group.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
There are no warnings regarding this natural ingredient.
Recommended Products w/ Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax:
Eugenia Caryophyllus
* An ingredient distilled from the dried flowerbuds of Eugenia caryophyllus
* Also known as clove oil
Functions:
Eugenia Caryophyllus, or cloves, were traditionally used to kill intestinal parasites thanks to their broad anti-microbial properties against fungi and bacteria, thus supporting its traditional use as a treatment for diarrhea, intestinal worms and other digestive ailments. These anti-microbial properties also explain its use in deodorants and anti-fungal powders. According to ArtemisHerbs, Japanese researchers have discovered that like Eugenia Caryophyllus contains antioxidant properties which help prevent the cell damage eventually causes malignant disease. However, the chemical eugenol has been found to be a weak tumor promoter, making this ingredient one of many healing herbs with both pro- and anti-cancer effects.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Etidronic Acid
* A chelator found in shampoos and soaps
* Can be irritating and should be rinsed off thoroughly after use
Functions:
Etidronic Acid is a chelating agent and may be added to bind to or counter the effects of substances such as arsenic, iron, or other metal ions that can occur in the presence of some soaps (Source). Etidronic acid also acts to retard oxidation of fatty acids. For clarification, a chelator, or chelating agent is a binding component added to many cosmetics, beauty products, and water softeners to form multiple bonds with a single metal ion and neutralize it (Source).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
There is very little information warning about side effects of Etidronic Acid in skin care products or soaps that are not used on an industrial level. It is noted, however, that while Etidronic Acid has not been limited from inclusion in cosmetics and does have legitimate uses, it is recommended that, as with most cosmetic products (particularly soaps), the product should be thoroughly rinsed from the skin after use.
Ethylparaben
* A preservative found in skin care products, often used to treat dry skin through essential oils such as eucalyptus and primrose oil
* Read the following TIA articles concerning ethylparaben and its link to cancer: Preservatives and Parabens and Are They Safe? and What Is It: Estrogen in my Shampoo
Functions:
Ethylparaben is a paraben and preservative found in many skin care products, ranging from skin cream to body lotion to deodorant. It can be found in essential oils used to treat dry skin and in primrose oil serving as an anti-septic. Although parabens are generally considered safe when used in low percentages (.04% – .08%), many studies have found a link between parabens and breast cancer. According to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel, however, “the available acute, subchronic, and chronic toxicity tests, using a range of exposure routes, demonstrate a low order of parabens’ toxicity at concentrations that would be used in cosmetics” (source). After testing different levels of exposure to parabens in women, men, and children, the CIR Expert Panel found that these “determinations are conservative and likely represent an overestimate of the possibility of an adverse effect (e.g., use concentrations may be lower, penetration may be less) and support the safety of cosmetic products in which parabens preservatives are used.”
Ethylhexylglycerin
* A natural preservative used as an alternative to parabens
* Derived from glycerin and can also be used as a deodorizer and skin conditioner
Functions:
Ethylhexylglycerin servces as a surfactant and preservant enhancer and acts as a safe preservative in minute amounts. It’s a proven preservative-enhancer and is often used instead of controversial parabens (Read more in TIA’s article on parabens and preservatives).
Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from grains and plants and works by reducing interfacial tension on the cellular walls of micro-organisms, promoting their more rapid destruction and a wider spectrum activity (Source).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Although Ethylhexylglycerin is generally considered safe, it has been found to be an irritant to the skin in two studies, causing allergic contact dermatitis: A Belgian study by the Department of Dermatology at the University Hospital and a study in the Contact Dermatitis Journal
Ethylhexyl Stearate
* An emollient derived from plant oil that prevents water loss
* Also known as Octyl Stearate
Functions:
According to Chemiplast, a Belgian researcher, Ethylhexyl Stearate is used as an oil component for emulsions, bath oils, and as a solvent for active substances in cosmetics. Stearate esters are used most frequently in the formulation of eye makeup, skin makeup, lipstick and skin care products.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The CIR Expert Panel notes that the safety of the stearate esters has been assessed in a number of studies. They have low acute oral toxicity and are essentially non-irritating to the eyes. At cosmetic use concentrations, the stearate esters were, at most, minimally irritating to skin (Source).
Recommended Products w/ Ethylhexyl Stearate:
Neova Night Therapy with Copper Peptides, Blue Lizard Australian Sunscreen
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
* An ester formed by the condensation of a salicylic acid with 2-ethylhexanol and used in sunscreen
Functions:
Ethylhexyl salicylate (also known as Octyl Slicylate) is an organic compound used as an ingredient in sunscreens and cosmetics to absorb UVB rays from the sun, according to Wikipedia. It is a colorless liquid with an oily consistency that often emits a mildly floral fragrance.
It is an ester formed by the condensation of a salicylic acid with 2-ethylhexanol. The salicylate component absorbs ultraviolet light and protects the skin from the harmful effects of exposure to sunlight. The ethylhexanol portion serves as a fatty alcohol, adding emollient and oil-like (water resistant) properties.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
* A derivative of palm oil lipid and is an ultra mild, skin smoothing ester
* Used in cosmetic formulations as a solvent, carrying agent, pigment wetting agent, fragrance fixative and emollient
Functions:
Ethylhexyl palmitate is a derivative of palm oil often used as an organic replacement to silicone. It has a ‘dry-slip’ feel that is very similar to silicone’s texture. It is found in many skin care products as an ingredient used to adjust the consistency.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
There are no major side effects associated with Ethylhexyl Palmitate, although irritation or allergic reaction can occur from products containing this ingredient. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel found that in skin tests with the Palmitates and with products containing the Palmitates, one of three products containing 40%-50% Ethylhexyl Palmitate produced mild irritation. However, no skin care product contains this high concentration of the ingredient (Source).
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
* Used in sunscreen as a UV filter
* Often listed on sunscreen products as Octinoxate
* Read TIA’s Article that talks about Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Functions:
According to CosmeticsInfo.org, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (also called Octyl Methoxycinnamate) is an active ingredient in OTC sunscreen products. It is used in products that are applied to the skin to absorb, reflect or scatter UV rays; it protects the skin from sunburn and other damaging effects of the sun. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate also protects cosmetics and personal care products from deterioration caused by UV rays and allows them to last longer in high UV conditions.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
ethylhexyl isononanoate
* An emollient ester, or fatty alcohol base used in cosmetic creams and foundations
Functions:
Very little information is available regarding Ethylhexyl Isononanoate beyond its use as an emollient ester. Emollients are generally used to thicken and stabilize liquid products and esters are formed by combining acid (often amino acid) and alcohol.
No warnings could be found regarding this ingredient.
Recommended Products w/ Ethylhexyl Isononanoate:
Ethylenediamine
* A highly toxic ingredient that is toxic in its 100% concentration and is easily absorbed into the skin
* For more information, read TIA’s post on Aminophyilline, another ingredient that often contains Ethylenediamine
Functions:
Although Aminophyilline and Ethylenediamine are not FDA approved for use in cosmetics, they do appear in some products. Ethylenediamine is a colorless, viscous liquid with an ammonia-like odor. According to OSHA, it is used as surfactant, dyeing agent, solvent and emulsifier in a variety of cleaning products. It can be found in topical anti-fungal creams, steroid creams, and antibiotic creams.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Because Ethylenediamine is not FDA approved, and is such a potent compound, it should be generally avoided. It has many hazardous side effects, including respiratory issues and severe skin reactions. There is also a high incidence of allergic reactions to this ingredient (New Zealand Dermatological Society).
Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer
* A compound often used as a gel in skin care ingredients
Functions:
Little information is available on Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer. In skin care products, it is used as a stabilizing emollient, or as a viscosity increasing agent. Ultimately, Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer is used in skin care products to create a gel-like consistency and stabilize the formula. According to The Cosmetics Database, it is a polymer of ethylene, propylene and styrene that has been hydrogenated.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
There are no listed side effects for Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer.
Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer
* Used as film former, emulsifier, and thickener in cosmetics
* Can be an irritant if not combined with the appropriate formula
Functions:
Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer is a synthetic polymer used as a binder and film-former in dyes, adhesives and recently, skin creams. There is not much information available on Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer beyond its thickening and binding properties.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Although Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer has been approved for use in skin care products, it is done so with caution. Even the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel warns that it must be used with caution and under certain qualifications, including careful formulation to avoid irritation. It may contain impurities, and is can be toxic when absorbed through the skin at high levels. Therefore, it is only a safe ingredient in skin care products when there is a guaranteed low absorption rate.
Recommended Products w/ Ethylene/Acrylic Acid Copolymer:
Ethylbisiminomethylguaiacol Manganese Chloride
* An active ingredient in sunscreen products
* Also known as EUK-134
Functions:
According to the Journal of Investigative Dermatology, EUK-134 not only prevents damage done by exposure to the sun’s harmful UVB rays, but can also increase cell survival after the exposure occurs. It is therefore a complete antioxidant system that mimics nature and is safe and beneficial in cosmetics and, more importantly, sunscreens (source).
UVB-generated oxidative stress contributes to photoaging and photocarcinogenesis, and increased oxidative stress may lead to increased DNA damage, subsequent mutation, and in the long run, cancer. By replenishing the cell’s antioxidant defense, EUK-134 may be very efficient in the fight against both the short and the long-term photoaging and photocarcinogenesis from UVB radiation on the skin.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Ethyl Macadamiate
* A plant-derived alternative to synthetic silicone
* Fatty acid from Macadamia oil
Functions:
Ethyl Macadamiate is a non-greasy and non-sticky alternative to silicone that exhibits excellent spreadability. Its dry, smooth consistency makes it especially appealing for use in skin care products, as well as hair conditioner, according to Purist.com and Wikipedia. Because of its easy spreadability, it’s a popular ingredient in sunscreen products.
Ethyl Macadamiate is a natural substance and has no major side effects.
Recommended Products w/ Ethyl Macadamiate:
Ethyl acetate
* A relatively non-toxic solvent often found in nail polish remover
Functions:
Ethyl Acetate is a colorless liquid with a characteristically sweet smell, often used in nail polish removers, and is manufactured on a large scale for use as a solvent. Due to its low cost, low toxicity levels, and sweet smell, Ethyl Acetate is a common ingredient in cosmetics. It is found in many perfumes thanks to its ability to evaporate on the skin quickly, leaving behind the perfume’s fragrance without an oily or alcholic residue (Source).
According to CosmeticsInfo.org, the FDA has approved Ethyl Acetate with its GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe) rating. This is consistent with its use as a flavoring and solvent in many foods and beauty products. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel concurs with these findings. Although Ethyl Acetate is thought to be somewhat toxic, it is used to decaffeinate coffee and tea, and is also used in the fermentation of wine.
Ethoxydiglycol
* Used as a solvent and carrier in skin care products
* Also known as Diethylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether
Functions:
According to RealSelf.com, Ethoxydiglycol is a clear, practically colorless, liquids used in cosmetics and personal care products. It is a solvent used to thin out products and increase viscosity. This compound is used in hair and bath products, eye and facial makeup, fragrances, personal cleanliness products, and shaving and skin care products.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Although there was little data regarding the side effects of Ethoxydiglycol, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel found that acute, subchronic, and chronic oral toxicity studies indicated a low order of toxicity for these glycols (of which Ethoxydiglycol is one). Results of parenteral injection, inhalation, and acute and subchronic cutaneous toxicity studies likewise supported a low order of toxicity. It should be noted, however, that Ethoxydiglycol ultimately contains ether, and therefore can be linked to cancer, developmental/reproductive toxicity, allergic reactions and endocrine disruptions.
Ergothioneine
* A natural antioxidant amino acid found in mushrooms
* Read more about Ergothioneine in TIA’s Article
Functions:
According to SkinInfo.com and The Natural Database, Ergothioneine is an antioxidant found in various liver, kidney, black and red beans, oat bran and fungi (mushrooms) that protects the mitochondrial membrane from oxidation by transferring fatty acids to help skin use oxygen more efficiently and produce more regenerative energy. Topically, it is used to prevent wrinkles, reduce signs of aging skin, and reduce photodamage.
Although it is used in many topical products like skin creams and moisturizers, umerous studies have also shown that consuming fruits and vegetables which are high in antioxidants like ergothioneine may reduce the risk of developing chronic diseases. It has been shown to have strong antioxidant properties and to provide cellular protection within the human body (Source).
ergocalciferol
* Vitamin D2
* Primarily used to treat psoriasis in skin care application
Ergocalciferol, or Vitamin D2, is a fat-soluble vitamin and a powerful antioxidant and anti-carcinogen. According to Healthy-SkinCare.com, Vitamin D plays a role in skin cell metabolism and growth. Therefore, it has shown some effectiveness in treating itching and flaking which are common symptoms of this skin problem. Although Vitamin D creams are available over the counter, the active Vitamin D form is only available in prescription creams or supplements. Although it normally takes several weeks to see results from topical ergocalciferol treatment, Vitamin D creams have few side effects, unlike steroid containing creams. Additionally, because one of the vitamin d benefits is to act as a powerful antioxidant, Vitamin D can play a role in preventing the premature aging of skin and damage to the skin structure.
Equisetum Arvense
* An ancient, natural herb used to strengthen and soften skin
* Also known as Horsetail
Functions:
Equisetum Arvense contains saponins, flavonoids, and silica, which are attributed to the herb’s ability to strengthen and regenerate skin tissue. Thanks to its high levels of silica (which gives it a very smoothing, softening effect on skin) and its diuretic properties, it can be used as an astringent and has also been used to heal wounds and improve circulation. Equisetum Arvense contines maganese, magnesium, iron and copper, all bio-minerals necessary for collagen and elastin creation (Source).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
There are no known adverse side effects of Equisetum Arvense.
Recommended Products w/ Equisetum Arvense:
Skin2SkinCare Anti-Wrinkle Night Recovery, Max Green Alchemy Scalp Rescue Conditioner, Dermaxime Rejuvenating Toner, Dr. Alkaitis Organic Day Creme, Moltobene Clay Esthe Pack
Epigallocatechin Gallate (EGCG)
* The most power antioxidant of all the green tea catechins
* For more info, read TIA’s article about Green Tea and EGCG
Functions:
Both animal and human studies have credibly demonstrated that topical green tea formulations reduce sun damage, and animal studies have shown that the Epigallocatechin Gallete (EGCG) in green tea may actually prevent skin cancer. Green tea appears to exert sun damage protection by quenching free radicals and reducing inflammation rather than by blocking UV rays. Therefore, green tea may synergistically enhance sun protection when used in addition to a sunscreen (Source).
epigallocatechin gallate
* An anti-oxidant isolated from green tea
* Read TIA’s article about Green Tea as a Sunblock
Functions:
Green tea is most oftentimes drank to absorb its high levels of antioxidants. However, it has also been found to protect the skin from UV-radiation induced damage (Source) and tumor formation. Epigallocatechin gallate is one of the four major catechins in green tea and have a much higher level of polyphenolic substances than those found in black tea, another herbal antioxidant source.
Green tea has been used in the Orient for centuries to promote health and treat ailments. It has recently been used as a cancer chemotherapy preventative and is being tested for its effects on multiple sclerosis.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
There are no known negative side effects of epigallocatechin gallate or its presence in green tea.
Recommended Products w/ Epigallocatechin Gallette:
Ensulizole
* A water-soluble absorber of ultraviolet B radiation, used topically as a sunscreen
* Also known as phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic
Functions:
Ensuliozole is a UVB-protecting agent found in most sunscreens. It does protect skin from UVA rays as well, but not as thoroughly as the protection provided from UVB rays. For complete skin protection, this ingredient (as well as many other UVB-protecting sunscreen ingredients) must be paired with other UVA-protecting ingredients (including avobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, or Mexoryl SX), according to CosmeticsCop.com.
Most chemical sunscreen ingredients are oils that are soluble in the oil phase of emulsion systems (eMedicine). Because ensulizole is water-soluble, it has the unique characteristic of feeling lighter on skin. As such, it is often used in sunscreen lotions or moisturizers with a goal of a non-greasy finish.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Ectoin
* A natural moisture binder that also protects the skin from the effects of UVA-induced cell damage
Functions:
Ectoin is a natural substance proven to prevent UVA-induced premature photoaging by inhibiting UVA-induced second messenger release (Source). According to a study published by Skin Pharmacology and Physiology in 2004, it was shown that Ectoin protects the skin from the effects of UVA-induced cell damage in a number of different ways. It was demonstrated that the UVA-induced second messenger release, transcription factor AP-2 activation, intercellular adhesion molecule-1 expression and mitochondrial DNA mutation could be prevented. The results obtained clearly demonstrate that Ectoin counteracts the effects of UVA-induced and accelerated skin aging at different cell levels.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
There are no adverse side effects or warnings associated with Ectoin in skin care products.
Recommended Products w/ Ectoin:
Shiseido Bio Performance Super Restoring Cream, Rare Minerals Skin Revival Night Treatment
