* An ancient, natural herb used to strengthen and soften skin

* Also known as Horsetail

Functions:

Equisetum Arvense contains saponins, flavonoids, and silica, which are attributed to the herb’s ability to strengthen and regenerate skin tissue. Thanks to its high levels of silica (which gives it a very smoothing, softening effect on skin) and its diuretic properties, it can be used as an astringent and has also been used to heal wounds and improve circulation. Equisetum Arvense contines maganese, magnesium, iron and copper, all bio-minerals necessary for collagen and elastin creation (Source).

Safety Measures/Side Effects:

There are no known adverse side effects of Equisetum Arvense.

Recommended Products w/ Equisetum Arvense:

Skin2SkinCare Anti-Wrinkle Night Recovery, Max Green Alchemy Scalp Rescue Conditioner, Dermaxime Rejuvenating Toner, Dr. Alkaitis Organic Day Creme, Moltobene Clay Esthe Pack

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* An ingredient distilled from the dried flowerbuds of Eugenia caryophyllus

* Also known as clove oil

Functions:

Eugenia Caryophyllus, or cloves, were traditionally used to kill intestinal parasites thanks to their broad anti-microbial properties against fungi and bacteria, thus supporting its traditional use as a treatment for diarrhea, intestinal worms and other digestive ailments. These anti-microbial properties also explain its use in deodorants and anti-fungal powders. According to ArtemisHerbs, Japanese researchers have discovered that like Eugenia Caryophyllus contains antioxidant properties which help prevent the cell damage eventually causes malignant disease. However, the chemical eugenol has been found to be a weak tumor promoter, making this ingredient one of many healing herbs with both pro- and anti-cancer effects.

Safety Measures/Side Effects:

According to The International Federation of Aromatherapists and the medical journal Contact Dermatitis, Eugenia Caryophyllus should be used with extreme caution. Clove oil contains 73% eugenol, a volatile substance that research has shown causes skin-cell death and it can be a potent skin irritant when used repeatedly. It should not be used by pregnant women and its use should be monitored carefully because of its volatile properties.

Recommended Products w/ Eugenia Caryophyllus:

Male Order Dermalogica Environmental Control Deodorant, Bioelements Power Peptide, Ren Rose Synergy 012 Restoring Facial Serum

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* An plant-derived eye soother

* Also known as Eyebright

Functions:

Euphrasia Officinalis’ (Eyebright) astringent properties account for its usefulness as a topical treatment for under-eye puffiness and dark circles. It counteracts inflammation and reduces mucous drainage, thanks to its high levels of iridoid glycosides, flavonoids, and tannins. Eyebright was and continues to be used primarily as a poultice for the topical treatment of eye inflammations, including blepharitis, conjunctivitis, and styes. It’s known to give rapid relief from redness, swelling, and visual disturbances in eye infections, although should only be used under doctor’s supervision when used as a treatment for an eye infection (Source).

Safety Measures/Side Effects:

There are no known side effects for Euphrasia Officinalis, although it should only be used under supervision if an eye infection is suspected. Although Eyebright is considered an herbal remedy for eye infections, as an under-eye cream or applied directly, it can irritate an eye infection if not used properly.

Recommended Products w/ Euphrasia Officinalis:

Derma Radiant Ageless Eyes, Male Order Menscience Ultralight Eye Rescue Formula, Lab Series Age Rescue Therapy, Five Best Vitamin C, E Creams, DermaRadiant Ageless Eyes

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* The most power antioxidant of all the green tea catechins

* For more info, read TIA’s article about Green Tea and EGCG

Functions:

Both animal and human studies have credibly demonstrated that topical green tea formulations reduce sun damage, and animal studies have shown that the Epigallocatechin Gallete (EGCG) in green tea may actually prevent skin cancer. Green tea appears to exert sun damage protection by quenching free radicals and reducing inflammation rather than by blocking UV rays. Therefore, green tea may synergistically enhance sun protection when used in addition to a sunscreen (Source).

According to SmartSkinCare.com, due to their antioxidant and anti-inflammatory activities, topical green tea polyphenols are likely to slow down the development of some signs of aging. Whether green tea can actually diminish wrinkles and skin sag is far more uncertain. In a 2005 study, forty women with moderate photoaging were randomized to either a combination regimen of 10% green tea cream and 300 mg twice-daily green tea oral supplementation or a placebo regimen for 8 weeks. No significant differences in clinical grading were found between the green tea-treated and placebo groups. On the other hand, histologic grading of skin biopsies did show significant improvement in the elastic tissue content of treated specimens.

As the major polyphenolic compound in green tea responsible for its healing and protective powers, EGCG is especially potent with 25 to 100 times the antioxidant power of vitamins A, C and E. Research by the University of Georgia and the U.S. Department of Veteran Affairs demonstrated that EGCG will protects the skin’s immune system, delays cellular aging and stabilizes sensitive, irritated skin. According to scientist Santosh Katiyar, it “enhances the production of interleukin-12, which has a role in DNA repair. If green tea polyphenols can repair DNA, then they can prevent skin cancer.” EGCG is also being researched as a treatment for HIV.

Safety Measures/Side Effects:

There are no warnings or adverse reactions resulting from EGCG.

Recommended Products w/ Epigallocatechin Gallate:

Sircuit Skin Cool Lychee Wa Mask, PCA Skin pHaze 24 Rejuvenating Serum, Sophytos Polyphenol Skin Drops

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* Used in sunscreen as a UV filter

* Often listed on sunscreen products as Octinoxate

* Read TIA’s Article that talks about Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

Functions:

According to CosmeticsInfo.org, Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (also called Octyl Methoxycinnamate) is an active ingredient in OTC sunscreen products. It is used in products that are applied to the skin to absorb, reflect or scatter UV rays; it protects the skin from sunburn and other damaging effects of the sun. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate also protects cosmetics and personal care products from deterioration caused by UV rays and allows them to last longer in high UV conditions.

Safety Measures/Side Effects:

The Food and Drug Administration (FDA) conducted an OTC drug review of Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate and did approve it for use in OTC sunscreens up to a concentration of 7.5%. However, it has been known to produce excess reactive oxygen species that can interfere with cellular signaling, cause mutations, and lead to cell death. This reaction may also be implicated in cardiovascular disease. As always, ingredients applied to skin may cause allergic reactions. One instance of this reaction was published in Contact Dermatology but was not significant enough to discourage FDA approval.

Recommended Product w/ Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate:

Dr. Spiller’s Celltresor Cream and Gel

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* A derivative of palm oil lipid and is an ultra mild, skin smoothing ester

* Used in cosmetic formulations as a solvent, carrying agent, pigment wetting agent, fragrance fixative and emollient

Functions:

Ethylhexyl palmitate is a derivative of palm oil often used as an organic replacement to silicone. It has a ‘dry-slip’ feel that is very similar to silicone’s texture. It is found in many skin care products as an ingredient used to adjust the consistency.

Safety Measures/Side Effects:

There are no major side effects associated with Ethylhexyl Palmitate, although irritation or allergic reaction can occur from products containing this ingredient. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel found that in skin tests with the Palmitates and with products containing the Palmitates, one of three products containing 40%-50% Ethylhexyl Palmitate produced mild irritation. However, no skin care product contains this high concentration of the ingredient (Source).

Recommended Products w/ Ethylhexyl Palmitate:

Redpoint Age Management Essentials, DDF Organic Sun Protection SPF 30, Skin Biology Calypsos Oil, Tarte Eraser 4 in 1 Concealer, Skin Biology CP Night Eyes

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* An ester formed by the condensation of a salicylic acid with 2-ethylhexanol and used in sunscreen

Functions:

Ethylhexyl salicylate (also known as Octyl Slicylate) is an organic compound used as an ingredient in sunscreens and cosmetics to absorb UVB rays from the sun, according to Wikipedia. It is a colorless liquid with an oily consistency that often emits a mildly floral fragrance.

It is an ester formed by the condensation of a salicylic acid with 2-ethylhexanol. The salicylate component absorbs ultraviolet light and protects the skin from the harmful effects of exposure to sunlight. The ethylhexanol portion serves as a fatty alcohol, adding emollient and oil-like (water resistant) properties.

Safety Measures/Side Effects:

Although the Cosmetics Ingredient Review notes that reproductive and developmental toxicity can occur in relation to Salicylic Acid, one of the two primary components of Ethylhexyl Salicylate, it has determined that the levels used in cosmetic and beauty products would not cause any adverse reaction. Importantly, the FDA has approved Ethylhexyl Salicylate for use in sunscreen with up to 5% concentration. In OTC sunscreens, it is often referred to as Octisalate (Source).

Recommended Products w/ Ethylhexyl Salicylate:

Olay Definity Color Recapture, Male Order Ahava Protective Moisturizing Flui with SPF 15, Dr. Spiller’s Celltresor Cream and Gel

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* An emollient derived from plant oil that prevents water loss

* Also known as Octyl Stearate

Functions:

According to Chemiplast, a Belgian researcher, Ethylhexyl Stearate is used as an oil component for emulsions, bath oils, and as a solvent for active substances in cosmetics. Stearate esters are used most frequently in the formulation of eye makeup, skin makeup, lipstick and skin care products.

Safety Measures/Side Effects:

The CIR Expert Panel notes that the safety of the stearate esters has been assessed in a number of studies. They have low acute oral toxicity and are essentially non-irritating to the eyes. At cosmetic use concentrations, the stearate esters were, at most, minimally irritating to skin (Source).

Recommended Products w/ Ethylhexyl Stearate:

Neova Night Therapy with Copper Peptides, Blue Lizard Australian Sunscreen

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* A natural preservative used as an alternative to parabens

* Derived from glycerin and can also be used as a deodorizer and skin conditioner

Functions:

Ethylhexylglycerin servces as a surfactant and preservant enhancer and acts as a safe preservative in minute amounts. It’s a proven preservative-enhancer and is often used instead of controversial parabens (Read more in TIA’s article on parabens and preservatives).

Ethylhexylglycerin is a synthetic compound derived from grains and plants and works by reducing interfacial tension on the cellular walls of micro-organisms, promoting their more rapid destruction and a wider spectrum activity (Source).

Safety Measures/Side Effects:

Although Ethylhexylglycerin is generally considered safe, it has been found to be an irritant to the skin in two studies, causing allergic contact dermatitis: A Belgian study by the Department of Dermatology at the University Hospital and a study in the Contact Dermatitis Journal

Recommended Products w/ Ethylhexylglycerin:

Juice Beauty Green Apple SPF 20 Antioxidant Body Moisturizer, Terralina Gentle Facial Cleanser, Julique’s Biodynamic Beauty Refining Treatment, Skin2Skin Care Anti-wrinkle Night Recovery

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* A chelator found in shampoos and soaps

* Can be irritating and should be rinsed off thoroughly after use

Functions:

Etidronic Acid is a chelating agent and may be added to bind to or counter the effects of substances such as arsenic, iron, or other metal ions that can occur in the presence of some soaps (Source). Etidronic acid also acts to retard oxidation of fatty acids. For clarification, a chelator, or chelating agent is a binding component added to many cosmetics, beauty products, and water softeners to form multiple bonds with a single metal ion and neutralize it (Source).

Safety Measures/Side Effects:

There is very little information warning about side effects of Etidronic Acid in skin care products or soaps that are not used on an industrial level. It is noted, however, that while Etidronic Acid has not been limited from inclusion in cosmetics and does have legitimate uses, it is recommended that, as with most cosmetic products (particularly soaps), the product should be thoroughly rinsed from the skin after use.

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