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Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride
* A conditioning chemical added to hair products for easy detangling
Functions:
Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride is a water-soluble derivative of natural guar gum, and delivers conditioning properties to shampoos and after-shampoo hair care products.
A study was done on bleached and non-bleached hair to test the efficacy of this ingredient. Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride was determined to be an excellent hair conditioning agent. With concentrations as low as 0.5% in shampoo, significant improvements in the ease of combing (or detangling) were observed in both wet and dry, virgin and bleached hair. It far out performed Polyquaternium-10, another conditioning agent used in shampoo.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
No adverse side effects could be find for Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride and it has been approved for use by the Environmental Working Group.
Recommended Products w/ Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride:
Guaiazulene
* An antioxidant derived from chamomile oil
Functions:
Guaiazulene is a dark blue crystalline hydrocarbon and derivative of azulene, the blue colored constituent of chamomile oil. It also occurs naturally as a constituent of oil of guaiac, a rose scented oil often used in soap (Source). Its blue coloring makes it ideal as an ingredient in shampoos and other hair care products for gray hair and its anti-inflammatory properties also enable it to soothe the scalp and follicles.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
According to the Environmental Working Group, Guaiazulene is approved by the FDA as a color additive in beauty products, but is not approved for use around the sensitive eye area. It is, however, an ingredient in Jack Black Eye Balm Age Minimizing Gel, which is a safe and effective product.
Recommended Products w/ Guaiazulene:
Phytoargent Whitening Shampoo for Graying Hair, Jack Black Eye Balm Age Minimizing Gel
Gotu Kola
* A natural, herbal anti-inflammatory and wound healer
* Also known as Centella Asiatica
Functions:
According to Wikipedia, Gotu Kola is mildly antibacterial, anti-viral, anti-inflammatory, anti-ulcerogenic, anxiolytic, a cerebral tonic, and circulatory stimulant common to Sri Lanka, northern Australia, Indonesia, Iran, Malaysia, Melanesia, New Guinea, and other parts of Asia. Gotu Kola has been known as “the fountain of life” thanks to Chinese legend telling of an ancient Chinese herbalist that lived for more than 200 years as a result of using the herb and was traditionally used as a treatment for leprosy.
According to research done by The University of Maryland Medical Center, some studies indicate that triterpenoids found in Gotu Kola strengthen the skin, boost antioxidants in wounds, and increase blood supply to the area. It’s also thought to boost the production of type I collagen and myofibroblasts. Based on these findings, Gotu Kola has been used topically for minor burns, psoriasis, prevention of scar formation following surgery, and prevention or reduction of stretch marks.
Glycyrrhiza Glabra
* Used as a whitener, antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and moisturizer
* Also known as Licorice Root Oil
Functions:
According to The National Cancer Institute, Glycyrrhiza Glabra has been used as an anti-inflammatory and antioxidant, primarily because of licochalcone, a molecule contained in licorice root extract which helps control oil production, and helps calm and soothe acne-prone skin.
Although it is currently used in many skin care and beauty products, there is little research on its actual ability to whiten or moisturize. When combined with other plant oils, alpha-hydroxy acids, beta-hydroxy acids, keto-acids amides, ammonium salts and inorganic salts it can be used to reduce dark age spots and whiten skin, according to some studies.
According to The National Institutes of Health, topical licorice extract gel has been shown to be effective in the treatment of atopic dermatitis in preliminary human study and is sometimes used to help decrease inflammation because of its effect on steroid metabolism. However, both of these benefits need more research.
Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs)
* A family of carbohydrates that help with the maintenance and support of collagen and elastin
* Read TIA’s article on Glycosaminoglycans (GAGs)
Functions:
Glycosaminoglycans’ primary role is to maintain and support collagen, elastin and turgidity (bounce) in the cellular spaces and keep protein fibers in balance and proportion. It also promotes the ability of the collagen and elastin fibers to retain moisture, therefore remaining soluble (Source). In skin care products, they are essential to the epidermal & dermal cells metabolism and keeping the collagen and elastin of the skin in good condition. GAGs are important in the reaction of copper peptides to help repair wrinkles and scarring. Known as the water reserve of the viable epidermis and dermis, these carbohydrates are dependent on fluid intake. Glycosaminoglycans are also linked to the lymphatic system.
Glycine Soja
* Also known as Soybean
Functions:
According to The Skin Care Dictionary, Glycine Soja (Soy) contains significant amounts of all the essential amino acids and is a good source of protein. It is derived from Soybean Amino Acids and is rich in protein, minerals and vitamins, especially Vitamin E. It is commonly used in bath oil and soap making, as well as for skin conditioning and skin firming because it is a natural emollient and moisturizer.
Soybeans contain the isoflavones and types of phytoestrogen which are considered by some to be useful in the prevention of cancer and by others to be carcinogenic and endocrine disruptive.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Glyceryl Stearate
* A naturally derived fatty acid, most often used as an emulsifier
Functions:
Glyceryl Stearate is derived from palm kernel, vegetable or soy oil and is also found naturally in the human body. It acts as a lubricant on the skin’s surface, which gives the skin a soft and smooth appearance (Source). It easily penetrates the skin and slows the loss of water from the skin by forming a barrier on the skin’s surface. It has been shown to protect skin from free-radical damage as well.
Chemically, Glyceryl Stearate is used to stabilize products, decrease water evaporation, make products freeze-resistant, and keep them from forming surface crusts. Glyceryl Stearate reduces the greasiness of oils used in certain cosmetics and personal care products, according to CosmeticsInfo.org.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Glyceryl Stearate is approved by The Cosmetic Ingredient Review board and has received the GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe) rating from the FDA.
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate
* A non-drying lubricant used as a viscosity agent in beauty products
Functions:
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate is a film former and viscosity agent according to CosmeticDatabase.com. It is often used in gels because of its strong hydrating power and a very high water absorbing capacity. Glyceryl Polymethacrylate can help to reconstruct the dermis and increase skin firmness and contains a natural fragment of elastin. It can also be used to fight premature aging and maintain the skin’s resistance and integrity (Source).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Glyceryl Polymethacrylate is considered safe and the Environmental Working Group issued no warnings for its use.
Recommended Products w/ Glyceryl Polymethacrylate:
Kronos Phyx, Emergin C Multivitamin Retinol Serum, Jack Black Eye Balm Age Minimizing Gel
Glyceryl Oleate Citrate
* A plant-derived emollient and emulsifier
Functions:
Glyceryl Oleate Citrate is one of many glyceryl monoesters (an organic compound formed by an acid and an alcohol). It is a fatty acid monoglyceride (a lipid, an ester of glycerol and one fatty acid) used as an emulsifier and stabilizer for water-in-oil emusions (Source). Ultimately, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate is a compound used most often in cosmetics and beauty products as a fragrance ingredient (in part due to the pleasant fragrance naturally found in esters); a skin-conditioning agent; an emollient; a surfactant; or an emulsifying agent (CosmeticsDatabase.com).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Glyceryl Oleate Citrate has the FDA Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) rating and has also been approved for use in beauty products by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel. A thorough study by the National Institutes of Health of 43 different glyceryl monoesters and Glyceryl Oleate Citrate was found to be nonirritating and nontoxic to animals or humans.
Glyceryl Dilaurate
* An emollient originating from vegetable oil that is known to cause skin irritation
Functions:
Glyceryl Dilaurate is in the Glyceryl Diesters, a group of ingredients made up of glycerin and fatty acids. They are used as emollients and for other purposes in many cosmetics and beauty products. Glyceryl Diesters, on a whole, are FDA and CIR approved and are given the GRAS rating. They are generally used in low concentrations and are not irritants (Source).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
However, Glyceryl Dilaurate in particular is labeled as a known irritant, although the cases are few and far between. Specifically, a study, done by CIR published by the National Institute of Health found that Glyceryl Dilaurate was a mild primary irritant, but not a skin sensitizer in maximization tests. An eye shadow containing 1.5% Glyceryl Dilaurate did not induce skin irritation in a single insult patch test, but mild skin irritation reactions to a foundation containing the same concentration were observed. Use Glyceryl Dilaurate with caution and stop use immediately if skin irritation occurs.
Glyceryl Diisostearate
* Used in skin care as a lubricant and emollient
* Has been known to cause irritation in some studies
Functions:
Glyceryl Diisostearate is a Glyceryl Diester made of glycerin and fatty acids. It is used in skin care products, moisturizers, and lipstick and other makeup products because of its good dispersability for color particles and excellent adhesion strength. This makes it a key ingredient in many lipsticks and cream blushes. All Glyceryl Diesters act as lubricants on the surface of the skin and give it a soft and smooth appearance (Source).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Although the FDA has given Glyceryl Diisostearate its GRAS rating and the CIR has approved it for use in cosmetics, it is a known irritant. Most consumers do not suffer adverse reactions from Glyceryl Diisostearate, especially in the low concentration found in products. However, a Japanese study published in Contact Dermatitis found that Glyceryl Diisostearate caused irritation and lip cream dermatitis in patients, especially those with prior histories of irritant reactions.
Glyceryl Behenate
* A mixture of glycerides and fatty acids
Functions:
Glyceryl Behenate is one of many Glyceryl Monoesters, which are primarily used in the formulation of creams and lotions, moisturizers, and other skin care products, and can also be found in permanent waves, deodorants, bath soaps, eye makeup and foundations. It functions as an emollient, skin-conditioning agent, surfactant and emulsifying agent.
According to CosmeticsInfo.org, Glyceryl Monoesters, including Glyceryl Behenate, are all prepared from glycerin and most from fatty acids as well, some of which come from refined vegetable oils.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Glyceryl Behenate has been approved by the FDA, receiving its GRAS rating, and the CIR (Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel).
Recommended Products w/ Glyceryl Behenate:
Kose Seikisho Facial Cleansing Mousse, Unbelievable by Cheryl Tiegs
Glycerin
* A naturally occurring ingredient (also synthetically made) that balances the water levels in skin to facilitate moisture
* Also known as Glycerine or Glycerol
* Read more about Glycerin in TIA’s article
Functions:
Glycerin is used as a lubricant and humectant in a variety of personal care products, and as a cosmetic bonding agent for makeup. Simply stated, glycerin attracts water to skin and helps skin to feel smoother and softer. However, studies have found that it not only attracts water to the skin, but also helps skin cells mature properly. According to a study done by The Medical College of Georgia, Glycerin works as a signal to help direct skin cells through their four normal stages of maturity. In the endless cycle of skin-cell production, the youngest cells move up from the deepest layer and switch from replicating as their main function to eventually becoming mature surface cells that spit out lipids to help form the skin’s protective barrier.
Glycereth-26
* An emollient used in skin care products
Functions:
Glycereth-26 is a glyceryl ester and is a multitudinous oil used in cosmetics as an emollient, lubricant, as well as a water-binding and thickening agent (Source). There is not much information on the use of Glycereth-26 specifically, or glyceryl esters in general, although it is clear that its primary function is as a thickener.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Environmental Working Group issues no warnings for Glycereth-26 and no other documented adverse side effects were found.
Recommended Products w/ Glycereth-26:
Azure Hydropeptide Cellular Transformation Growth Serum, Savoge Idebenol Facial Antioxidant
Glutamine
* The most abundant naturally occurring, non-essential amino acid in the human body
* Also known as L-Glutamine
Functions:
Glumatine is known to aid in protein synthesis, immune function and serves as an anti-inflammatory. It occurs naturally in the body and sources include beef, chicken, fish, eggs, milk, dairy products, wheat, cabbage, beets, beans, spinach, and parsley (Source). As an immune booster and antioxidant, Glutamine can condition and heal the skin when applied topically.
According to The University of Maryland Medical Center, when the body is stressed (such as from injuries, infections, burns, trauma, or surgical procedures), steroid hormones, such as cortisol, are released into the bloodstream. Elevated cortisol levels can deplete glutamine stores in the body. Since glutamine plays a key role in the immune system, a deficiency in this nutrient can significantly slow the healing process. Clinical studies have reported that glutamine supplements or topical ointments enhance the immune system and reduce infections and may also aid in the recovery of severe burns or wounds.
Glucosyl Hesperidin
* A flavonoid compound known to stimulate blood circulation
Functions:
Although Glucosyl Hesperidin is generally considered a blood pressure medication, its ability to improve blood circulation allows it to stimulate the surface circulation of the skin and therefore help to improve dark circles under the eyes, dull complexion and tired skin. In patent research by Proctor and Gamble, it was found that Glucosyl Hesperidin can be used for anti-aging and skin lightening products. The flavonoid compounds in Glucosyl Hesperidin are known to provide antioxidant, UV absorbing, and radical scavenging benefits, and are also known to be effective in strengthening collagen structure. Its high solubility is also favorable for use in skin care products.
Glucosyl Hesperidin is seen in under eye products and creams as a product that can help improve blood circulation, thereby overcoming the negative physical effects caused by stress, tiredness and a cold, dry climate.
Glucosamine HCl
* An amino sugar and one of the most abundant monosaccharides, often used to treat psoriasis and help with skin rejuvenation
Functions:
Although Glucosamine HCl is normally found in shellfish, it can also be created from the fermentation of corn, according to Wikipedia. Glucosamine is necessary in the body for the structure and function of the articular cartilage. It assists in maintaining the elasticity and integrity of the connective tissue and assists in building, maintaining and repairing cartilage, tendons and ligaments. It is most commonly used as a topical ointment or oral supplement to treat osteoarthritis. The same anti-inflammatory and elasticity properties that make it a great treatment for osteoarthritis may also contribute to its use in skin products and cosmetics. It’s also been known to help in the treatment of psoriasis.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Gluconolactone
* An antioxidant polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is capable of chelating metals
Functions:
Gluconolactone is composed of multiple water-attracting hydroxyl groups, which hydrate the skin, resulting in enhanced degrees of moisturization. According to a study featured in Dermatologic Surgery journal, Gluconolactone is a polyhydroxy acid (PHA) that is capable of chelating metals and may also function by scavenging free radicals, thereby protecting skin from some of the damaging effects of UV radiation. Gluconolactone provided up to 50% protection against UV radiation and UV radiation-induced elastin promotor activation. Contrary to some scientific fears, it does not significantly increase sunburn cells in human skin.
Although more research is being done on Gluconolactone’s effects on photoaging, in one study, signs of photoaging were significantly reduced after six and twelve weeks of twice daily use, including firmness, sallowness, fine lines, wrinkles, roughness, hyperpigmentation and pore size (Source). According to the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, it may also show improvements in patients with rosacea, and is gentle on sensitive skin.
Ginkgo
* A naturally occurring antioxidant that serves as an anti-inflammatory and aids in skin rejuvenation
* Also known as Ginkgo Biloba
Functions:
Although used for centuries, first in Asia, for the treatment of many health concerns, including stomach problems and Alzheimer’s (The Mayo Clinic), it has recently been found to aid in skin care in a variety of ways. Ginkgo provides many antioxidant benefits, when drank in tea or applied topically in skin care products, thanks to its high levels of quercetin, a common and powerful antioxidant. Its anti-inflammatory and defensive properties are also particularly strong and it’s been discovered to help treat acne, eczema, or other types of facial redness and inflammation (Source). This may be because of Ginkgo’s properties as a vasodilator, increasing circulation, improving sebaceous secretions, decreasing capillary hyper-permeability, improving tissue irrigation and activating cell metabolism (especially in the cortex, by increasing glucose and oxygen uptake).
GAMMA-Aminobutyric Acid (GABA)
* A new ingredient in skin creams that is supposed to simulate Botox injections
* Read TIA’s article on Products with Gamma-Aminobutyric Acid
Functions:
Cosmetic companies use GABA in products claiming to relax muscles topically. However, GABA has not been proven to relax muscles and reduce the appearance of wrinkles or expression lines when applied topically. Cosmetic companies are hoping consumers will associate the topical application of products containing GABA with its internal function of controlling the manner in which nerve impulses fire, although this is not a proven effect (Source).
There is no solid research proving GABA works in this manner when applied topically, despite astudydone by the Journal of Investigative Dermatology. If GABA worked as stated and you applied it to your entire face, it would in theory penetrate below the skin and relax all of the muscles in your face, neck and jaw. This may actually result in skin sagging, rather than the plumping that it claims to create. This component actually requires a reaction between it and many other chemicals to create a plumping, tightening effect.
Gamma Oryzanol
* A plant-derived anti-oxidant used in age spot or whitening agents
* Also known as rice bran oil
* See TIA’s article on Rice Bran
Functions:
Originally used by the Japanese in the 1960s, Gamma Oryzanol is a natural nutrient extract isolated from rice bran oil that contains a mixture of sterols and ferulic acids, which may aid in the destruction of free radicals in the skin. It has recently been researched for its ability to slow the progress of melanin pigmentation by intercepting the ultraviolet rays at the skin’s surface and hindering their transmission (Science Direct). Gamma Oryzanol is often seen in sunscreen thanks to this ability. It is also able to protect skin lipids from oxidation, and is used to prevent freckles, age spots, and darkening of the skin.
