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Isostearyl Neopentanoate
* Used in the overall formulation and dispersion of pigmentation in cosmetics
Functions:
Isostearyl Neopentanoate is the ester of Isostearyl Alcohol and Ieopentanoic Acid and is used in the formulation of eye makeup, primarily of eye shadows, and in blushers and makeup foundations. It is also used in skin care products, including skin cleansers, and moisturizers (RealSelf.com).
In cosmetics, it serves as a stablizer, emollient, and binder. Isostearyl Neopentanoate holds pressed powder makeup together, allowing it to remain in its “caked” form as a binder; it also enables it, when acting as a pigment dispenser, to go from a cream form to a powder form upon application, as in liquid eye shadows and concealers, according to a rosacea website.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Isostearic Acid
* A fatty acid most often used as a binder
Functions:
Isostearic Acid is a synthetically created fatty acid most often used as a binder in skin and beauty products, although it is also seen in products as a surfactant and emulsifier (Source). It is used to thicken most formulas as a binder and emulsifier.
As a fatty acid, it is a component of a complex mixture that also has the added benefit of protecting the skin from oxidative damage, according to CosmeticsCop.com.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
There are no warnings associated with Isostearic Acid. Fatty acids are generally considered safe ingredients in beauty products and with no negative research to indicate otherwise, it should be safe to assume to Isostearic Acid has no adverse side effects.
Recommended Products w/ Isostearic Acid:
Revlon’s Age Defying Spa Concealer, Skyn Icelands the Antidote Mineral Sunscreen SPF 18, Neostrata Lotion Plus AHA 15
Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate
* A synthetic fatty acid
Functions:
Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate is a synthetic compound derived from fatty acids. It is most often used in beauty products and cosmetics in relation to coloring and pigmentation because it is very reactive to almost all pigments and consistently forms a uniform coating.
According to Kobo, a cosmetics manufacturing and research company based in the US, France and Japan, Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearates are dispersible in many esters and natural oils at over 80% and can be used to develop non-greasy formulas. Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearates also have “excellent affinity to the skin.”
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
No safety warnings or adverse side effects have been found for Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate and the Environmental Working Group gives it a 100% safety rating.
Recommended Products w/ Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate:
Isopropyl Myristate
* An emollient
* A synthetic oil known to be comedogenic
Functions:
Isopropyl Myristate is a synthetic oil used as an emollient, thickening agent, lubricant or moisturizer in beauty products. It is most often seen in aftershaves, shampoos, bath oils, antiperspirants, deodorants, and various creams and lotions (Source). Although it is a popular ingredient, in more than 5% of formulations it can cause skin irritation and clog pores; for this reason, it is considered a comedogenic and is aggravating to acne.
A unique characteristic of Isopropyl Myristate as one of many emollients is its ability to reduce the greasy feel caused by the high oil content of other ingredients in a product. This synthetic oil is often added to beauty products to give them a slicker, sheer feel rather than an oily one. However, it is so deeply penetrating that it is also an ingredient in a well-known rust remover, Liquid Wrench, according to BetterHealthySkin.com. While it does its job as an emollient within the jar, it may penetrate skin too deeply, clogging pores.
Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate
* An emollient
Functions:
Very little information is available regarding Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate. It is used as an emollient, binder, and skin conditioning agent in beauty products according to the CosmeticsDatabase.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Little to no research was available for Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate, but the Environmental Working Group and the Cosmetic Safety Database gave it a safety rating of 100% for use in beauty products and cosmetics.
Recommended Products w/ Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate:
Isopropyl Isostearate
* An emollient
Functions:
Isopropyl Isostearate is the ester of Isopropyl Alcohol and Isostearic Acid(CosmeticsInfo.org). It is used in beauty products as an emollient, skin conditioning agent, binder and humectant. It helps lock in moisture and gives skin a smooth feel, according to Vaseline.com, and acts as a lubricant on the skin’s surface to give it a soft and silky appearance.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
According to RealSelf.com, the CIR Expert Panel CIR concluded that Isopropyl Isostearates are not sensitizers or photosensitizers, and are not carcinogenic. These esters, undiluted or at use concentrations, produced, at most, slight skin irritation but not sensitization, and were safe as a cosmetic ingredient. The Environmental Working Group also gave Isopropyl Isosotearate a 100% safety rating.
Recommended Products w/ Isopropyl Isostearate:
Bliss An Ounce of Prevention AM SPF 15, Elizabeth Arden Prevage Body, Olay Professional Pro X Wrinkle Smoothing Cream
Isononyl Isononanoate
* An emollient
Functions:
Isononyl Isononanoate is a skin conditioning emollient that leaves a silky feeling on the skin. Very little information is available about the distinguishing characteristics of this emollient.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Although the Environmental Working Group gave Isononyl Isononanoate 100% safety rating and it is generally considered a safe ingredient in beauty products, the November 2008 issue of Contact Dermatitis published a new study by the Department of Dermatology at a Belgium University entitled “New Cosmetic Allergens: Isononyl Isononanoate and Trioleyl Phosphate” although full results were unavailable at this time.
Recommended Products w/ Isononyl Isononanoate:
Vivite Daily Antioxidant Facial Serum, Skyn Icelands the Antidote Mineral Sunscreen SPF 18, My Blend Day Creme, Redpoint Age Management Essentials, Abrione Positive Vibrations Massage Cream, 3Lab WW Eye Cream with Human Growth Hormone
Isohexadecane
* An emollient
Functions:
Isohexadecane is a high purity, iso-paraffin emollient and solvent used in cosmetics and beauty products. Although it is colorless and odorless, it creates a very creamy, thick formula. However, for all of its rich texture, Isohexadecane leaves a non-greasy, light and silky feeling on the skin. It is most often found in foundations, sun care products, lip products, deodorants and antiperspirants and makeup removers (Source).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
There are no safety measures or warnings associated with the use of Isohexadecane and the Environmental Working Group rates it 100% safe. A study was published in Contact Dermatitis in 2004 that concluded that Isohexadecane does not cause contact dermatitis.
Recommended Products w/ Isohexadecane:
Dr. Spiller’s Celltresor Cream and Gel, Estee Lauder Time Zone Line Wrinkle Reducing Lotion SPF 15, Kronos Phyx Overnight Repair Masque, Elemis Vitamin Rich Body Lotion, Olay Professional Pro X Wrinkle Smoothing Cream, Ahava Protective Moisturizing Fluid SPF 15, Lorac Natural Performance Foundation, Skinceuticals Age Interrupter, Nia 24 For Aging Lips, Olay Total Effects Eye Transforming Cream
Isoeugenol
* A chemically altered form of Eugenol, a primary component of Clove Oil
* Please Read TIA’s article on Eugenol
Functions:
Isoeugenol is ultimately a chemically altered form of Eugenol that is created by heating Eugenol and changing is composition. Eugenol is a liquid extracted from certain essential oils especially from clove oil, nutmeg, cinnamon, and bay leaf. Often seen in beauty products for its benefits as a derivative of clove oil, thanks to clove oil’s antioxidant properties, a close relative of Isoeugenol is often listed as Eugenia Caryophyllus on ingredient lists. Isoeugenol is primarily used in beauty products as a fragrance ingredient because of its spicy aroma (Wikipedia).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
There are many conflicting reports regarding the use of Eugenol and therefore Isoeugenol. The FDA does not regulate herbs and herbal ingredients, but an overview on Cloves from the National Institutes of Health seems to says that in moderation it is an acceptable ingredient, although it can have adverse side effects, including contact dermatitis.
Isoeicosane
* An emollient
Functions:
Isoeicosane is a hydrocarbon emollient that is often used as a replacement for mineral oil in “oil-free” products. It leaves a satiny texture and feel on skin and hair, and is often used for imparting shine, and silkiness to hair in conditioners (Source).
Because Isoeicosane is oil-free, it’s non-soluble in water and glycerin, although it is soluble in oil-based products that contain mineral oil or plant oils. This makes it a less frequently used ingredient than many other emollients.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Environmental Working Group and Cosmetic Safety Database gave Isoeicosane a hazard rating of 100% safe and no research could be found to indicate that there were any negative side effects to using products that contain Isoeicosane.
Recommended Products w/ Isoeicosane:
Isododecane
* Often used as an emollient
Functions:
Isododecane is a hydrocarbon ingredient most often used as an emollient in skin care products. Thanks to its low viscosity and density, it has a high spreadability, which makes it especially ideal for any lotion-based product (Source). Isododecane leaves a weightless feeling on the skin and evaporates easily; therefore it is also seen as a fragrance and perfume ingredient.
Because Isododecane is completely soluble with silicones, hydrocarbons, mineral spirits, etc., it is also used in a variety of products, including mascara, eyeliner, lotions, hair care, conditioners, setting lotions and hairsprays (Source).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The EWG issues no warnings for Isododecane, nor does the FDA or the CIR. It is generally considered a non-irritant unless there is prolonged exposure or a pre-existing allergy.
Recommended Products w/ Isododecane:
Isodecyl Salicylate
* Also known as Salicylic Acid or BHA
* Read TIA’s posting on BHA
Functions:
Isodecyl Salicylate is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA) that can be obtained from the bark of willow trees. It is an ester of Salicylic Acid that is a derivative of Aspirin. It is used in cosmetics and personal care products primarily as an exfoliating agent, but also as an anti-dandruff agent, hair conditioning agent, skin conditioning agent and preservative. Isodecyl Salicylate improves skin thickness, collagen production, wrinkling, roughness and hyperpigmentation by removing the dead skin cells of the epidermis and enabling the skin to absorb other anti-aging products (antioxidants, moisturizers) to its maximum potential (RealSelf).
Because of its Aspirin properties, Isodecyl Salicylate is also used in products as an anti-inflammatory and antiseptic. It is found in concentrations up to 3%.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Isodecyl Neopentanoate
* An emollient, similar to Cyclomethicone
Functions:
Very little information is available regarding Isodecyl Neopentanoate, but a Danish research firm has found it to be an alternative to Cyclomethicone, a synthetic silicone oil. Although only one source likens Isodecyl Neopentanoate to Cyclomethicone, you are encouraged to read TIA’s article on Cyclomethicone for more information.
Isodecyl Neopentanoate has a high spreadability and leaves a soft feeling on skin and hair. It is often used in shampoos and soaps and can be used as a solvent and emulsifier (Source).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
There are no warnings regarding Isodecyl Neopentanoate, and it is given a 100% approval by the Cosmetic Working Group.
Recommended Products w/ Isodecyl Neopentanoate:
RAW Perfect Balance, Murads Oil Free SPF 15 Sunblock with Sheer Tint
Isocetyl Stearate
* A skin conditioning emollient
Functions:
Isocetyl Stearate is the ester of Isocetyl Alcohol and Stearic Acid (found in animal and vegetable fats) and acts primarily as a lubricant on the skin’s surface. It dries to form a thin coating, giving the skin a soft and smooth appearance.
Isocetyl Stearate can also be used to dissolve other substances, usually liquids. Stearate esters have the unique properties of low viscosity and an oily nature, which results in a nongreasy film when applied to the skin or lips. In cosmetics and personal care products, Isocetyl Stearate is often used in the formulation of eye makeup, skin makeup, lipstick and skin care products (CosmeticsInfo.org).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Isocetyl Stearate has a low toxicity and is essentially non-irritating, although it has caused allergic reactions at concentrations in studies that were higher than those found in cosmetics (Source). It is nonsensitizing and nonphototoxic. It has been approved for use by the CIR.
Isobutylparaben
* A preservative found in skin care products
* Read the following TIA articles concerning Isobutylparaben and its link to cancer: Preservatives and Parabens and Are They Safe? and What Is It: Estrogen in my Shampoo
Functions:
Isobutylparaben is a paraben and preservative found in many skin care products, ranging from skin cream to body lotion to deodorant. Isobutylparaben is a less frequently used paraben and preservative, but is most often used to extend the shelf life of beauty products (Source).
Although parabens are generally considered safe when used in low percentages (.04% – .08%), many studies have found a link between parabens and breast cancer. According to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review (CIR) Expert Panel, however, “the available acute, subchronic, and chronic toxicity tests, using a range of exposure routes, demonstrate a low order of parabens’ toxicity at concentrations that would be used in cosmetics” (source). After testing different levels of exposure to parabens in women, men, and children, the CIR Expert Panel found that these “determinations are conservative and likely represent an overestimate of the possibility of an adverse effect (e.g., use concentrations may be lower, penetration may be less) and support the safety of cosmetic products in which parabens preservatives are used.”
Iron Oxides
* Pigments used to color cosmetics
Functions:
Iron Oxides have been used in the coloring of cosmetics since the early 1900s and are used to give not only cosmetics, but any skin product, its color. They are classified into three major color groups: the yellow iron oxide (yellow), colcothar (red), black iron oxide (black). These iron oxides are fine powders with a slight unique odor, according to ChemistryQuestion.com. There are 16 Iron Oxides in total and they are all compounds of iron and oxygen.
When used in cosmetics, Iron Oxides are considered ideal because they are non-toxic, non-bleeding and moisture resistant. This makes them a great additive to cosmetic products such as eye shadows, blushes and lipsticks. Iron oxides graded safe for cosmetic use are produced synthetically in order to avoid the inclusion of ferrous or ferric oxides, and impurities normally found in naturally occurring iron oxides (Wikipedia).
Iodoproynyl Butylcarbamate
* A preservative used in beauty products
Functions:
Iodoproynyl Butylcarbamate is an iodine-based preservative often considered to be a gentle alternative to paraben preservatives. The Cosmetic Ingredient Review expert panel has determined that it’s safe for use at less than .1% concentration in beauty products; a maximum concentration of 0.02% in rinse-off products; at 0.01% in leave-on products; in deodorant/antiperspirant products in which the limit is 0.0075%. Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate is not to be used for oral hygiene and lip-care products, or in products intended to be used on a large part of the body, such as body lotion (RealSelf.com).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
However, a Danish study published in the April 2006 issue of Contact Dermatitis found that Iodoproynyl Butylcarbamate can be a toxicant, cause contact dermatitis and have immune effects.
Recommended Products w/ Iodoproynyl Butylcarbamate:
Inositol
* A nutrient in the Vitamin B complex
Functions:
Inositol is a nutrient in the Vitamin B complex plays an important part in the health of cell membranes, regulates the contents of the cells, making effective functioning possible. While high levels of Inositol can lead to healthy hair and and aid in hair growth, low levels can lead to hair loss and skin dryness, even eczema (Source).
According to The National Cancer Institute, Inositol helps cell membranes respond to their environment, including cells in skin and hair. It has the same chemical formula as glucose and is found in beans, peas, brown rice, wheat bran and nuts.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
There are no adverse side effects to using products containing Inositol or ingesting it as a nutrient in supplements or as part of your daily diet.
Recommended Products w/ Caffeine:
IMIDAZOLIDINYL Urea
* A preservative used in beauty products
* Please see TIA’s post on Diazolidinyl Urea, a similar chemical compound
Functions:
IMIDAZOLIDINYL Urea is an antimocrobial preservative found in beauty products often used to protect them from spoilage caused by yeast, bacteria or mold included in the formulas. It is a formaldehyde releaser and one of the most widely used preservatives in the world, according to the National Cancer Institute.
Due to its high water solubility, it can be incorporated into almost any beauty product. Although it is often used in conjunction with parabens, it is not a paraben and is FDA approved for use in baby lotion, skin cream, sunscreens, shampoos, eyeliners, blush, perfumes, deodorants, hair dyes, shaving cream, etc.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Idebenone
* A super antioxidant that protects skin against free radicals
* A synthetic variant of Hydroxydecyl Ubiquinone and CoQ10
* Read TIA’s article on Idebenone
* Read TIA’s article on CoQ10
Functions:
Idebenone is an antioxidant that protects cells from environmental damage, improves the appearance of fine lines, reduces dryness, and smooths skin texture. Studies show that Idebenone is more powerful in preventing cell damage than Vitamin C, Vitamin E, Coenzyme Q10, Kinetin, and Alpha Lipoic Acid (Source). Although it is very similar to CoQ10, it’s more water soluble and has a slightly different anti-oxidant profile.
However, studies published in the March 2006 issue of the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology found Idebenone less effective than Vitamins E and C with ferulic on sun-exposed skin. Another study published in the same journal two years later found that red grape antioxidant was also more effective than Idebenone on sun-exposed skin. Therefore, although Idebenone is still considered a very powerful antioxidant, it may be less so when used in sunscreen products (Souce).
