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Lancome Genifique
What is really in
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Lyral
* A fragrance ingredient
* Also known as Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde
* Please see TIA’s post on Hydroxyisohexyl 3-Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde
Functions:
Lyral is a fragrance and masking ingredient used in many skin care products. It as an aldehyde fragrance that readily penetrates the skin, making it ideal for use in beauty products such as deodorant, skin creams and cosmetics. Lyral’s combination of myrcenol and acrolein is responsible for its long-lasting, powerful scent that is reminiscent of Lily of the Valley. It is considered one of the “Top 10 Scents” of the past 25 years, according to The European Union, and is found in over 35% of all beauty products.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Lycium Barbarum
* A powerful antioxidant
* Also known as Wolfberry or Goji Berry
* Please see TIA’s post on Goji Juice: The Ultimate Antioxidant Food
Functions:
Previously seen in juices and marketed as Goji juice or Wolfberry juice, Lycium Barbarum is now seen as an ingredient used in beauty products and cosmetics thanks to its powerful antioxidant properties. Its oxygen radical absorption capacity is 25,000 (compared to blueberries’ 2,500) and it is also rich in calcium, potassium, iron, zinc, selenium, Vitamin B and Vitamin C. In a study done in China in 1991, it was shown that Lycium Barbarum’s phytochemicals helped to prevent the oxidation of DNA and helped to restore damaged DNA (Source). This indicates that it would be an ideal ingredient in anti-aging products; however, no conclusive testing on Lycium Barbarum’s effectiveness has been done outside of Asia and many of its claims are derived from traditional herbal uses.
Lithium Stearate
* A stabilizer and binder
Functions:
Lithium Stearate is a metallic salt of a fatty acid that is primarily used as a stabilizer in the cosmetic industry (Source). According to the CosmeticDabatase, Lithium Stearate is also used as an anti-caking agent, binder, and viscosity agent; it helps to keep emulsions from separating into their oil and liquid components. It is most often seen in eye shadows, blushes, and other cosmetics.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
According to a study by the International Journal of Toxicology, “Stearates (including Lithium Stearate) are practically nontoxic, and have a low potential for acute dermal toxicity. Skin irritation studies with rabbits demonstrated that Stearates are only minimal to slight irritants at high concentrations.” However, the CIR approves the use of Lithium Stearate only under certain concentrations because of its properties as an irritant and the EWG notes that Lithium compounds are known to be neurotoxic to humans, although this is when ingested, not applied topically.
Liposomes
* Serve as a delivery system directly to aging skin cells
Functions:
Liposomes are, by definition, a tiny bubble (vesicle), made out of the same material as a cell membrane used to deliver chemicals in solutions (Wikipedia). This ingredient was originally developed to transport drugs through the body to treat cancer and other diseases, but cosmetics companies have began using Liposomes because of their unique ability to provide cells with critical nutrients and the nourishment necessary to promote collagen production.
Liposomes are a popular ingredient in anti-aging products because of their ability to capture and deliver active anti-aging ingredients through the layers of skin right down to the cellular level where they can be most productive, according to the Skin Care Resource Center. They deliver nutrients directly to aging cells and have been shown to improve skin hydration, reduce fine lines, diminish wrinkles and improve texture.
Linoleic Acid (LA)
* An Omega 6 fatty acid
Functions:
Linoleic Acid is a polyunsaturated fatty acid and is part of the Omega 6 fatty acids, found in many vegetable oils, especially safflower and sunflower oils. It occurs naturally in the body, and deficiencies lead to dry hair, hair loss, and poor wound healing (Wikpedia). It is no surprise then that Linoleic Acid is often used as an ingredient in beauty products for the treatment of these same problems. It is used as an emulsifier, and in the making of soaps and quick-drying oils; it is also used as for its anti-inflammatory, acne reduction, and moisture retention properties.
Linoleate
* A fatty acid
* Often seen in beauty products as part of a compound (Glyceryl Linoleate or Tocopheryl Linoleate)
* Please read TIA’s article on Linoleic Acid
Functions:
Linoleate is a salt or ester of Linoleic Acid that is used as a skin conditioning agent in beauty and skin care products. It is often combined with other compounds, such as Glyceryl or Tocopheryl (Vitamin E), to be a more effective ingredient, and listed in products as such (Source).
As a component of Tocopheryl Linoleate, it forms a barrier against moisture evaporation from the skin, prevents free radical damage in the skin tissues, serves as an antioxidant nutrient, slows cellular aging due to oxidation and nourishes cells and dry skin (Source).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Lilial
* A fragrance ingredient
Functions:
Lilial is a fragrance ingredient formally known as Butylphenyl Methylpropional. It is a widely used fragrance compound found naturally in the essential oil of chamomile and is used synthetically in a variety of beauty products, including perfumes, shampoos, deodorants, tanning lotions and hairstyling products, primarily for its Lily of the Valley aroma.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Allergic contact dermatitis to Lilial was first reported and well studied in 1983 (The Green Beauty Guide). Lilial has repeatedly been found to be a skin irritant in animals and was listed as an irritant in 2001 by Contact Dermatitis. It’s also banned as an ingredient in Europe because of its toxic and irritant properties (Source).
Recommended Products w/ Caffeine:
Leucine
* An essential Amino Acid known to slow the degradation of muscle and skin tissue
Functions:
Leucine is an essential amino acid, often used as a dietary supplement by body builders because of its ability to slow the degradation of muscle tissue by increasing the synthesis of muscle proteins, according to Wikipedia. It can also assist with the growth and repair of muscle tissue in the bones, muscle, and most importantly for beauty products, skin. Thanks to this ability, Leucine is an ingredient being used in anti-aging skin care products. It is thought to help regenerate aging skin and reduce fine lines and sagging skin; it is said to create firmer, more supple skin and increase elasticity by repairing aging skin tissue.
Lauryl Lactate
* An emollient
* An AHA
Functions:
Lauryl Lactate is a naturally occurring acid known as an Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) found in beauty products and cosmetics functioning as an emollient, skin conditioning agent, and exfoliant. It is also infrequently used to impart fragrance in some products (Source).
Because Lauryl Lactate is so versatile, it is seen as an ingredient in a variety of beauty products and cosmetics, including: moisturizers, exfoliants, cleansers, body lotions, makeup, shampoos, hair dyes, and conditioners.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The CIR has approved Lauryl Lactate for use in cosmetics, but only in concentrates less than 10%, and only with a pH level of 3.5 or greater (Source).
Lauroyl Lysine
* A surfactant and conditioning agent
Functions:
Lauroyl Lysine is an Amino Acid derivative that is made from natural coconut fatty acid (coconut oil). It is most often used as a hair and skin conditioning agent, although it is also used in the formulation of products by contributing to a product’s texture by helping to gel solvents (Source). According to a study published in Cosmetics and Toiletries in 2003, Lauroyl Lysine is not only useful in binding hair and skin conditioners or other cream or gel products, but eye shadows and powder-based products as well.
Some studies that shown that the Lysine component in Lauroyl Lysine can also be useful in the treatment (but not cure) of coldsores because in inhibits the reproduction of the Herpes virus, according to Health911.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Lauric Acid
* The main fatty acid in coconut oil
* Also known for its anti-viral and anti-microbial properties
Functions:
Lauric Acid is the main fatty acid in coconut oil as well as palm kernel oil; it is also found in human milk, cow’s milk, and goat’s milk. It is used in beauty products and skin care because of its moisturizing abilities, and is also recognized as an acne-fighter thanks to its anti-microbial properties Source).
Lauric Acid is a medium chain fatty acid, which has the additional function of being formed into Monolaurin in the human or animal body. According to Dr. Mary Enig, a leading nutritionist and biochemist studying fats and oils, Monolaurin is an antiviral, antibacterial monoglyceride used to destroy viruses such as HIV, herpes, influenza, and various pathogenic bacteria. This may be an further explains why Lauric Acid can combat acne.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Laureth-9
* An emulsifier and surfactant
* Has anesthetic properties, as well as anti-itch properties
* Please see TIA’s post on Laureth-7 for more information about Laureths
Functions:
Laureth-9 is a Polyethylene Glycol Ether of Lauryl Alcohol with an Ethylene Oxide value of 9. It is used in rinse-off products as an emulsifier and surfactant, most often in shampoos and hair conditioners in concentrations up to 4%. It is also used in leave-on products such as body and face
creams in concentrations up to 3%.
Laureth-9 is also used in medicinal creams to treat dry and irritated skin, thanks to its additional anesthetic properties. However, there is some concern that the anesthetic effect of Laureth-9 could actually lead to sunburns and other inflammation because users would not feel damage occurring, according to research published by the European Commission’s Scientific Committee on Consumer Products. It is also thought to relieve itching (Source).
Laureth-7
* A surfactant and emulsifier
Functions:
Laureth-7 is a synthetic compound obtained by the extensive chemical modification of Lauric Acid, a natural fatty acid, and Oxirane, according to Cosmetics Unmasked. Laureth-7 is used as an emulsifier and surfactant in the formulation of a variety of bath, eye, facial, hair, cleansing and sunscreen products, as well as cuticle softeners, deodorants and moisturizing products.
All of the Laureth ingredients are produced by reacting Ethylene Oxide with Lauryl Alcohol and the number associated with the Laureth – in this case, 7 – refers to the average number of repeating Ethylene Oxide units in the molecule. According to research, as the numerical value of Laureths increases, the viscosity of the ingredient increases until they become white, waxy solids. Ultimately, Laureth-7 is low on the Laureth scale, which reaches Laureth-40. Therefore, Laureth-7 has a low-viscosity. However, there is some research which shows that the lower the numerical value of the Laureth, the higher the risk for irritation.
Laureth-5 Carboxylic Acid
* A surfactant
Functions:
Laureth-5 Carboxylic Acid is a synthetic compound obtained by the extensive chemical modification of Lauric Acid, a natural fatty acid, and Oxirane, and is used most often as a surfactant and emulsifier in hair care products, according to the book Cosmetics Unmasked by Dr. Steve Antczak of the UK.
There is very little research available on Laureth-5 Carboxylic Acid, but a study done at the University of Pennsylvania says that Laureth-5 Carboxylic Acid “allows for film formation and has moisturizing properties, and is compatible with a large variety of surfactants, which allows it to be used in a variety of personal cleansers. It also works as an anti-static agent.”
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
There are no warnings or adverse side effects listed for Laureth-5 Carboxylic Acid. However, Oxirane is one of the compounds used to create Laureth-5 Carboxylic Acid and it is known to be a skin irritant in high concentrations.
Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein
* A hair strengthener
Functions:
According to Cosmetics Unmasked, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein is a “synthetic compound obtained by the extensive chemical modification of Lauric acid, a natural fatty acid, and modified soybean protein.” It’s used as both a hair strengthener and an anti-static agent in hair care products. There is little additional research available on Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein at this time.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
No warnings could be found for Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein and no studies have been done that have produced any negative side effects from its use in beauty products or cosmetics.
Lauramine Oxide
* A foam builder and versatile ingredient
Functions:
Lauramine Oxide is an Amine N-oxide, an active component primarily found in shampoo, bubble bath and hand soap thanks to its foam building properties (Source). Because Lauramine Oxide has dual functional groups in the same molecule (both asidic and basic groups), it is very versatile.
It can have high solubility in some solutions and low in others; it creates positive charges and negative charges on different atoms; it carries anionic or cationic properties depending on pH value. Therefore although Lauramine Oxide is seen most frequently as a foam builder in beauty products, it can also be used as a dye dispersant, wetting agent, emulsifier, lubricant, surfactant, anti-static agent, and viscosity controlling agent, according to research.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Laneth 10 Acetate
* An emulsifier derived from lanolin
Functions:
Laneth 10 Acetate is derived from Lanolin Alcohol, which is derived from sheep’s wool. According to research, Laneth 10 Acetate is used as an emollient, stabilizer and emulsifier. It moisturizes the skin, hair and nails and is frequently used to reduce brittleness and cracking.
Laneth 10 Acetate is one of many Laneth ingredients including Laneth-5, Laneth-16, Laneth-25, and Laneth-9 Acetate.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Laneth 10 Acetate is safe for use in cosmetics and beauty products, despite the possible inclusion of small levels of 1,4-dioxane, a by-product of ethoxylation, according to the CIR. The FDA also regulates the levels of 1,4-dioxane in cosmetics.
Lactoperoxidase (LPO)
* An enzyme derived from milk
Functions:
Lactoperoxidase is an enzyme found naturally in milk that is known to have antimicrobial and antioxidant properties. According to research published in the Journal of Applied Microbiology, it has antibacterial properties that are helpful for the skin and can eliminate acne-causing bacteria. Lactoperoxidase is also an important component in a combination of ingredients (LPO, glucose, glucose oxidase (GO), iodide and thiocyanate) used to prevent yeasts, fungi, viruses and bacteria from growing in cosmetics and other beauty products (Source).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
There are no adverse side effects from the use of products containing Lactoperoxidase in normal concentrations.
Recommended Products w/ Lactoperoxidase:
Isun Blue Green Algae Mask, Africology Body Lotion, Burt’s Shea Butter Hand Repair Creme
Lactamide MEA
* A shine and conditioning agent
* Also known as Acetamide MEA
Functions:
Lactamide MEA is a lactic acid-derived humectant commonly found in hair conditioners and shampoos. It’s primary purpose is to add and retain shine and moisture in products. It is also found in moisturizers, body lotions and sunscreens.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
According to the Environmental Working Group, Lactamide MEA is relatively safe for use, especially in rinse off products.
Recommended Products w/ Lactamide MEA:
Intense Hydrating Cream for Feet, Dermalogica Daily Defense Block SPF 15
L-Carnitine
* The biologically active form of Carnitine, a nutrient that helps the body turn fat into energy
* Also known as Acetyl-l-carnitine
* Please read TIA’s article on Carnitine
Functions:
According to The University of Maryland Medical Center, L-Carnitine and Carnitine’s fundamental roles in the body is the transport of long chain fatty acids across the mitochondrial membrane into the mitochondria, where the fatty acids are ultimately broken down and converted to energy. Although it’s clear why both L-Carnitine and Carnitine oral supplements are beneficial to the body from the inside out, helping to shed fat, boost energy and build muscle (although even research on the true effects of those results is lacking), applied topically, L-Carnitine’s uses are suspect.
