* A glucose derivative used in skin repair

* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: Glucosamine and Hyperpigmentation

Functions:

N-Acetyl Glucosamine (NAG) is a monosaccharide derivative of glucose, chemically created by combining glucosamine and acetic acid. Glucosamine, one of the building blocks of joint tissue and other connective tissues, is an amino sugar derived from shellfish and used in the treatment of arthritis and other joint conditions (Wikipedia).

It is used two-fold in skin care products as a treatment and aide for wound-healing before and after surgery, as well as a treatment for UV-damaged skin and hyperpigmentation. According to research, studies on the effectiveness of glucosamine and N-Acetyl Glucosamine (NAG) showed that patients who used them before undergoing surgery and continued until their incisions healed showed faster rates of healing compared to patients who did not take it. Glucosamine skin cream products provide support for healthy joint, cartilage, connective tissues and flexibility, useful in damaged tissue surrounding wounds. The nutrients are encapsulated into liposomes for concentrated delivery to the required area.

In 2006, the International Consensus on Glucosamine Skin Benefits was held with leading scientists in conjunction with Proctor and Gamble Beauty. The panel determined that N-Acetyl Glucosamine (NAG), a more stable form of glucosamine, reduced the amount of melanin in skin cells, meaning there was less excess pigment in the skin to cause age spots. Additionally, the panel concluded that a formulation of N-Acetyl Glucosamine (NAG) and niacinamide, a Vitamin B derivative, significantly reduced the amount and appearance of hyperpigmentation, age spots and uneven melanin distribution, because they knew that niacinamide had similar effects on slowing down pigment production and hypothesized that the two might work better together.

According to studies, “Chronic UV exposure can damage melanocytes, cells in the skin responsible for producing melanin, in a variety of different ways. Often, this damage can lead to a loss of cellular control, and the production of chemicals that allow the cells to keep producing more and more melanin.”

N-Acetyl Glucosamine (NAG) is also being used to reduce the wrinkles and help the skin to stay more resilient.

Safety Measures/Side Effects:

There are no adverse reactions to products containing N-Acetyl Glucosamine (NAG) and no adverse reactions have been found. Since glucosamine is usually derived from shellfish, those allergic to shellfish may wish to avoid it. However, since glucosamine is derived from the shells of these animals while the allergen is within the flesh of the animals, it is probably safe even for those with shellfish allergy.

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* An acidic ester

Functions:

N-Hydroxysuccinimide is used in cosmetics and beauty products as an ester often seen in eye creams. N-hydroxysuccinimide activates the elimination of blood originated pigments responsible for dark color and inflammation that causes under eye circles. “Infra-orbital shadows are due to the accumulation of hemoglobin and its coloured degradation products – biliverdin, bilirubin and iron – in the dermis and epidermis … N-hydroxysuccinimide renders the iron soluble for natural elimination” (source).

Safety Measures/Side Effects:

Although little research was found that documented actual studies or research on N-Hydroxysuccinimide, it is slightly acidic, and is an known irritant to skin, eyes and mucous membranes (Wikipedia).

Recommended Products w/ N-Hydroxysuccinimide:

AG Skin Solutions Eye Serum, BeFine Food Skin Care Eye Blossom, MD Skincare Lift Lighten Eye Cream

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* An emollient

Functions:

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate is an emollient used in skin care products for its properties as a skin conditioning and viscosity increasing agent. It is formed as a combination of neopentyl glycol (film-forming agent and solvent) and heptanoic acid (fatty acid made from grapes), according to CosmeticsCop.com. Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate is seen as a good alternative to silicones and is light and velvety on the skin, with excellent spreadability (source).

Safety Measures/Side Effects:

Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate has been rated by the Cosmetics Database as 100% safe for use and no studies were found that listed adverse side effects or any safety warnings regarding its use.

Recommended Products w/ Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate:

Grassroots Research Pomegranate Super Antioxidant Cream, BeFine Food Skin Care Eye Blossom, Estee Lauder Time Zone Line Wrinkle Reducing Lotion SPF 15

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* A soluble form of Vitamin B

* Please read TIA’s article on Sensitive Oily Skin? Try Vitamin B

* Please read TIA’s article on Niacin and the Nia24 Range

Functions:

Niacinimide is a derivative of Vitamin B3 that suppresses melanin from reaching the surface of the skin and protects the skin from further UV damage. Too much melanin (which is a naturally occurring substance in the body that is responsible for both its color the skin’s absorption of UV rays) can result in age spots, freckles, and hyper-pigmentation. According to a study done by Proctor and Gamble, data revealed that 5% Niacinamide applied to the face for 12 weeks resulted in reductions of fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, and skin sallowness (yellowing). In addition, elasticity (as measured via cutometry) was improved.

“Topical application of Niacinamide has been shown to increase ceramide and free fatty acid levels in skin, prevent skin from losing water content, and stimulate microcirculation in the dermis” according to the British Journal of Dermatology in 2000.

Niacinamide serves as a precursor of NADH and NADPH, which are co-enzymes essential for numerous metabolic pathways and play a key role in metabolism of glucose, cellular energy production, and synthesis of lipids. The levels of these co-enzymes decrease with age, and topical Niacinamide appears to reverse the decline. Niacinamide is also shown to have some antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties as well.

Niacinamide is also used to treat acne, and in an 8 week study in which patients were treated with a 4% concentration Niacinamide gel, 82% of patients treated with Niacinamide were considered improved. There were no side effects. The research suggested that anti-inflammatory activity of Niacinamide may have contributed to its effect on acne (SmartSkinCare.com). In a similar rosacea study, 24 out of 36 patients showed improvement.

Safety Measures/Side Effects:

The EWG finds Niacinamide to be only 66% safe for use in cosmetics and beauty products, although it is CIR and FDA approved for use. Russian and Japanese studies, primarily in the late 1980s and early 1990s on mice found it to be carcinogenic, neurotoxic, and caused genetic mutations.

Recommended Products w/ Niacinamide:

glotherapeutics gloPeptide Defense, Zo Skin Health Ossential Growth Factor Serum, Gold Bond Ultimate Restoring Skin Therapy Lotion, 3LAB Perfect “Glow” Complex, glotherapeutics gloRetinol CS , Olay Professional Pro X Wrinkle Smoothing Cream, Pevonia De Aging Body Lotion, Olay Total Effects Eye Transforming Cream

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* A preservative

Functions:

Nisin is an antimicrobial preservative found in cosmetics and beauty products. Although it is more commonly used as a preservative in a variety of packaged foods ranging from cheeses to alcohol, it is used in cosmetics because it of its antibacterial properties and 34 amino acid residues (Wikipedia). Nisin is a rare example of a “broad-spectrum” bacteriocin effective against many organisms and is soluble in water; it can be effective at levels nearing the parts per billion range and can be used in a variety of beauty products and cosmetics, extending their shelf life at low concentrations.

Safety Measures/Side Effects:

Nisin is not considered to be an irritant and is considered safe for use topically. The EWG gives Nisin a safety rating of 81%. Nisin was found to cause neurotoxicity and organ toxicity in rats and rabbits, but the last published study was in 1952. It has been used safely and frequently in food products throughout the world for decades.

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* A bulking and opacifying agent

* Please read TIA’s article on YBF and Why Nylon

Functions:

Nylon-12 is a polymer made of repeating units linked by amide bonds and is used because of its unique properties as a flexible solid. In cosmetics and personal care products, the Nylon ingredients (of which Nylon-12 is one, in addition to Nylon 6, 6/12, 11, 66, 611, and 12/6/66) are used in the formulation of body and hand creams, eye makeup, mascara, nail polish, and skin fresheners. Nylon-12 is primarily used as a bulking agent, and opacifying agent, according to CosmeticsInfo.org.

As a clay alternative, Nylon-12 provides shine reduction, a silky feel to skin, and is able to expand and contract with facial movements without filling in small lines, creating a full and smooth appearance (Source). Nylon-12 is also hypo-allergenic and sterile.

Safety Measures/Side Effects:

Although there are few studies done on Nylon’s effect on skin and skin sensitivity, its prevalent use in clothing that has close contact with skin demonstrates that Nylon is not associated with adverse dermal effects such as skin irritation or sensitization. Nylon ingredients are polymers and are not absorbed through the skin; due to the poor absorption of polymers, there is usually little concern for human health after exposure to polymers when they are used in cosmetics and personal care products (Source).

The EWG rates Nylon-12 as 99% safe and it is FDA approved.

Recommended Products w/ Nylon-12:

Your Best Face Defend, Your Best Face Control, Almay Clear Complexion Concealer, Dermacia Lycogel Melt Resistant Foundation, Revlon Age Defying Spa Foundation, RAW Perfect Balance, Bliss An Ounce of Prevention PM

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* A preservative

* Please read the following TIA articles concerning N-Butyl Paraben and its link to cancer: Preservatives and Parabens and Are They Safe? and What Is It: Estrogen in my Shampoo

Functions:

N-Butyl Paraben is a preservative used in cosmetics and beauty products, primarily as an antimicrobial and antifungal preservative to prolong the shelf life of formulas. It is an oil-soluble preservative of the paraben family (which commonly include all butylparabens, methylparabens, ethylparabens, and propylparabens) and is considered non-toxic and non-irritating at .05 to 1% concentration Source).

Although parabens (the group of chemicals in which N-Butyl Paraben belongs) are generally considered safe when used in low percentages (.04% – .08%), many studies have found a link between parabens and breast cancer. According to the CIR Expert Panel, however, “the available acute, subchronic, and chronic toxicity tests, using a range of exposure routes, demonstrate a low order of parabens’ toxicity at concentrations that would be used in cosmetics” (Source). After testing different levels of exposure to parabens in women, men, and children, the CIR Expert Panel found that these “determinations are conservative and likely represent an overestimate of the possibility of an adverse effect (e.g., use concentrations may be lower, penetration may be less) and support the safety of cosmetic products in which parabens preservatives are used.”

Ultimately, the cosmetics industry has found the low levels of parabens in cosmetics to be safe and the connection between parabens and breast cancer to be weak. The FDA (which has given N-Butyl Paraben its GRAS rating) finds that although parabens can mimic estrogen, the actual effects of this low level of activity on the body do not cause cancer in a higher incidence than naturally occurring estrogen. Nonetheless, many paraben-free products are being created to avoid the possible dangers of N-Butyl Paraben and other paraben-based preservatives.

Safety Measures/Side Effects:

However. In a 2004 study published by the Journal of Applied Toxicology, 18 of 20 malignant breast tumors showed high concentrations of parabens, which are known to mimic estrogen in the body and affect the growth of breast tissue. Dr. Darbre, one of the chief scientists on the study, acknowledged that “One would expect tumours to occur evenly, with 20 per cent arising in each of the five areas of the breast … But these results help explain why up to 60 per cent of all breast tumours are found in just one-fifth of the breast – the upper-outer quadrant, nearest the underarm” (Source). Not all deodorants contain parabens; however, many beauty products in addition to deodorant contain parabens, including face cream, body lotions, cleansers and shampoos.

Read Anticancer by David Servan-Schreiber for more information.

Recommended Products w/ N-Butyl Paraben:

Derma Radiant Anti Wrinkle Complex

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