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Pyridoxine HCl
* Vitamin B6
* Please read TIA’s post on Sensitive, Oily Skin? Try Vitamin B
Functions:
Pyridoxine HCl is the hydrochloride salt of Vitamin B6. When applied naturally in the body, Pyridoxine assists in the balancing of sodium and potassium as well as promoting red blood cell production. It is also thought to be a preventative for dandruff, eczema, and psoriasis, according to Wikipedia. It is also thought to have anti-bacterial and antioxidant properties when applied topically to the skin, although there is very little research to verify these claims (CosmeticsCop.com). Although Vitamin B6 itself is not directly liked to skin care when applied topically, a deficiency can lead to skin problems, including contact dermatitis, irritation, eczema, and blisertering (iHealthDirectory.com).
Pyridoxine
* A Vitamin B6 derivative
* Please read TIA’s post on Sensitive, Oily Skin? Try Vitamin B
Functions:
Little information is available regarding Pyridoxine, although it is known that a Vitamin B6 deficiency can lead to skin problems, including contact dermatitis, irritation, eczema, and blisertering (iHealthDirectory.com). Pyridoxine is used in cosmetics and beauty products as a skin and hair conditioning agent, and also has anti-static properties. According to CosmeticsInfo.org, it is most often used as an ingredient in bath products, soaps and detergents, cleansing products, shampoos, conditioners, and less often, skin care products.
Pyridoxine is FDA approved and has received its GRAS (Generally Recognized as Safe) rating.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Punica Granatum
* Pomegranate
* Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: Pomegranate
* Please read TIA’s article on Five Best Botanical Ingredients for Younger Skin
Functions:
Punica Granatum, also known as Pomegranate, has long been touted for its high levels of Vitamin C and antioxidants, which can help prevent cell damage. Several studies have shown its ability to speed wound healing, as well as play a positive role in the repair of sun damaged and aging skin. Pomegranate extracts exert their positive effects by extending the life of fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin, the components that give strength and support to the skin, according to an article on Anti-Aging foods at Longevity.About.com.
Pullulan
* A film former
Functions:
Pullulan is a film former and binder popular in the production of breath strips, but it also appears as an ingredient in cosmetics and beauty products because of its solubility in water, and adhesive properties. According to Wikipedia, it is produced from the starch of the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans, and CosmeticsCop.com says that it is “Glucan gum produced by black yeast that contains polysaccharides, which makes it a good water-binding agent, thickening agent, and antioxidant,” although no other information corroborates any antioxidant properties or benefits.
Pullulan is seen as an ingredient in cosmetics and beauty products, specifically anti-aging products, because of its ability to provide an instant skin-tightening effect as it adheres to the skin. It is able to quickly form a sheer film that temporarily improves skin’s texture and appearance. According to Hayashibara, a Japanese manufacturer of Pullulan, it also provides a smoother texture to formulas, provides foam retention, is anti-static and oil resistant, and water soluble and therefore easily rinsed away.
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
* A skin-conditioning agent
* Also known as Antarcticine
* Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract
Functions:
Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract is a strain of bacteria isolated from mud found on King George Island in Antarctica. According to Dermaxime.com, it is a peptide that is classified as a protein derivative, and contains the following three amino acid residues: glycine, histidine and lysine. It is used in a number of anti-aging products because of its ability to regenerate and protect the skin by retaining moisture and water, heal wounds, increase collagen and elastin production, and improve hydration.
Propylparaben
* An anti-fungal preservative
* Read the following TIA articles concerning Propylparaben and its link to cancer: Preservatives and Parabens and Are They Safe? and What Is It: Estrogen in my Shampoo
Functions:
Propylparaben is the propyl ester of p-hydroxybenzoic acid, occurs as a natural substance found in many plants and some insects, although it is manufactured synthetically for use in cosmetics, pharmaceuticals and foods, according to Wikipedia. It is used as a preservative for its anti-fungal and anti-microbial properties to extend the shelf life of beauty and cosmetic products. It is considered non-toxic, non-sensitizing and non-irritating at .05 to 1% concentrations.
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate
* A skin-conditioning agent
Functions:
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate is derived from Propylene Glycol, and is a diester of proplyene glycol and fatty acids; it is a mixture of Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate and Propylene Glycol Dicaprate (CosmeticsInfo.org). However, this compound differs greatly from Propylene Glycol, and is strictly a skin conditioning agent that utilizes its fatty acid components to maintain and improve lubrication and skin cell resilience, combining with proteins to promote healthy skin, according to research. Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate is used in skin care and beauty products as an ingredient in moisturizers, cleansing products, fragrance products, and makeup products such as foundations and lipsticks.
Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate is FDA approved as a direct food additive, and CIR approved as well.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Propylene Glycol
* A versatile moisturizer
* Also known as Propane-1,2-diol
* Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: Propylene Glycol
Functions:
Propylene Glycol, a petroleum derivative produced by propylene oxide hydration, is a versatile ingredient used in over 4,000 products and formulas in the cosmetics and beauty industry as a moisturizer, skin conditioning agent, carrier in fragrance oils, solvent and viscosity decreasing agent. It is also a frequent food additive (as E1520) and is also found in deodorant sticks, toothpaste, mouthwash, tobacco products, and other industrial products such as anti-freeze and brake fluid (Wikipedia). It is responsible for the consistent texture of lipstick, the consistency of lotions and formulas that contain both oil and water, the long-lasting fragrance of perfumes, and the foaming action of shampoos, according to Propylene Glycol.com. In skin and hair care products, Propylene Glycol acts by retaining the moisture content of skin or the formula, preventing the escape of moisture or water.
Propyl Gallate
* A preservative
* Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: Preservatives and Parabens and Are They Safe?
Functions:
Propyl Gallate is an antioxidant preservative used in a wide variety of cosmetics and beauty care products, including lipsticks, bath products, skin cleansing products, moisturizers, skin care products, makeup products, self-tanning products, and sunscreen and suntan products. It is an “ester formed by the condensation of gallic acid and propanol,” according to Wikipedia, and is added to food and skin care products containing oils and fats to prevent oxidation. If oxidation occurs, it can result in rancidity, color changes, viscosity changes and deterioration of active ingredients in formulas, negating their effectiveness (CosmeticsInfo.org).
Propyl Gallate is on the FDA’s list of ingredients that are Generally Recognized As Safe (GRAS) for use, but it is limited to a maximum concentration of 0.02% of the fat or oil content of the food. The CIR has approved Propyl Gallate as a safe ingredient in cosmetics and personal care products at concentrations less than or equal to 0.1%.
Proline
* An amino-acid
* Can also be found as L-proline, D-proline, or DL-proline
Functions:
Proline is one of the twenty non-essential amino acids, meaning that it can be created and synthesized within the human body. It is involved in the body’s production of collagen and cartilage (and is often seen as an ingredient in energy drinks and dietary supplements) and is used in anti-aging and cosmetic formulas because of its ability to strengthen and renew aging skin cells. One-sixth of collagen, a major building block of skin (and its youthful appearance) is comprised of proline (Wikipedia). According to research, Proline can break down protein to help create healthy cells and connective tissues, promoting firmer, glowing skin and reducing sagging, wrinkles and aging of skin due to sun exposure.
Pro-Xylane
* A xylose derived anti-aging ingredient
Functions:
Pro-Xylane is an ingredient originally developed by Lancome in 2006. According to research, it is a sugar-protein hybrid made from xylose, a sugar found abundantly in beech trees and known to stimulate the production of glycoaminoglycans (GAGs), molecules responsible for defending the skin against water loss.
Pro-Xylane enters the skin and sparks the production and building of sections of the extra-cellular matrix (the gel-like network of proteins and sugars that acts as a scaffold and shock absorber between cells) called proteoglycans. These molecules absorb water, making the matrix more gel-like, increasing the firmness of the cells and hence the skin. It also serves as a highway to guide replenishing molecules such as growth proteins to the cells.
PPG 5 Ceteth 20
* An emollient
Functions:
PPG 5 Ceteth 20 is used in cosmetics and beauty products as both an emollient and surfactant. Little information about this ingredient, but it is considered to have versatile uses and can have lubricating properties or serve as solvent in formulas. When used as a traditional emollient, PPG 5 Ceteth 20 creates a dry, silky feeling on the skin and can reduce the greasy effect of oils and petroleum. It is found in a large number of hair care formulas, as well as skin care products like moisturizers and cleansers.
It is approved by the CIR at concentrations ranging from 5-20% (ThePersonalFormulator.com).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
PPG 3 Benzyl Ether Myristate
* An emollient
Functions:
PPG 3 Benzyl Ether Myristate is a shine-enhancing emollient and plasticizer found primarily in hair care products, as well as lip gloss formulas. According to a study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Science in 2004 entitled “A new multifunctional, shine-enhancing emollient: PPG-3 benzyl ether myristate” PPG 3 Benzyl Ether Myristate provides a silicone-like feel, can enhance shine in hair products, high gloss in lip products, “and reduces whitening effect of fatty alcohols and silica in anti-perspirants/deodorants applications. [It] has high solubility of UV filters, low skin-spreading factor, and good pigment wetting behavior, which are preferable in sunscreen and make-up formulas to enhance the pigment localization and improve SPF value.”
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
PPG 3 Benzyl Ether Myristate was rated as a 100% safe ingredient by the Cosmetics Database and no other studies were found that listed any adverse side effects.
PPG 26 Buteth 26
* An alcohol-based conditioning agent and surfactant
Functions:
PPG 26 Buteth 26 is a part of the PPG Buteth ingredient group, used in cosmetics and skin care formulas because of its ability to restore the appearance of dry, damaged skin and hair by reducing flaking and improving suppleness (CosmeticsInfo.org). It is primarily considered an emulsifying agent with conditioning properties, but is also used as a fragrance ingredient and surfactant. PPG 26 Buteth 26 is a widely used ingredient but is seen mostly in cleansing products, including bubble baths and other bath products, shampoos and other hair products, skin fresheners, skin cleansers, and shaving products, according to RealSelf.com.
PPG 26 Buteth 26 is FDA approved as an additive to, although there is no current reported use of the ingredient in food. The CIR has approved its use in cosmetics with limitations.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
PPG 2 Myristyl Ether Propionate
* An emollient
Functions:
PPG 2 Myristyl Ether Propionate is an ingredient made by combining glycols with fatty alcohols. It is most often used as a skin-conditioning agent or emollient, and is also seen as a thickening agent in some skin care and cosmetic formulas (CosmeticsCop.com).
According to chemical supplier The Personal Formulator, PPG 2 Myristyl Ether Propionate “forms cohesive uniform films that lack the occulsiveness of heavy oils, like mineral oils, enabling it to provide a more pleasing skin feel.” It is a non-oily, dry emollient that is easily mixed and spreadable. PPG 2 Myristyl Ether Propionate is often used in sunscreen formulas because of its dry properties, as well as other heavy cream formulas that cannot have oily, runny properties.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
PPG 11 Stearyl Ether
* An emollient
* Also known as PPG 15 Stearyl Ether
Functions:
PPG 11 Stearyl Ether is the same compound as PPG 15 Stearyl Ether, where the 11 or 15 represents the ‘units’ of propylene glycol produced in the reaction between Propylene Oxide and Stearyl Alcohol (which is derived from animal fats and oils), according to Glam Scientist. It is used in skin care products, mostly in cleansers and moisturizers, as an emollient, because of its lubricating properties that give skin a silky look and feel. It is also seen in a large number of deodorant and antiperspirant products, as well as other skin care and cosmetic formulas. It is CIR approved in concentrations from 2% – 10%, but not to exceed 25%.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
PPG 1 Trideceth 6
* Emulsifying agent
Functions:
Very little information is available regarding PPG 1 Trideceth 6, which is also known as Polyoxypropylen(1) Polyoxyethylen(1) Tridecylether, according to CosmeticAnalysis.com. It is used as both an emollient and emulsifying agent in a variety of skin care, hair care, and cosmetic formulas.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database found PPG 1 Trideceth 6 to be 100% safe for use, and noted only data gaps as a concern. No studies were found that reported negative side effects regarding its use.
Recommended Products w/ PPG 1 Trideceth 6:
Ardell Brow and Lash Growth Accelerator, Abrione Positive Vibrations Massage Cream, Pure Basic Tea Tree and Rosemary Anti-Dandruff Shampoo and Anti-Dandruff Conditioner, Kronos Phyx Overnight Repair Mask
Potassium Sulfate
* A thickening agent
* Also known as Potassium Sulphate or Sulphate of Potash (UK)
Functions:
Potassium Sulfate is most commonly used as the primary chemical in fertilizer because of its ability to deliver both potassium and sulfur. However, it is also an ingredient in cosmetic and skin care formulas when used as a viscosity increasing agent or thickener (Wikipedia). Little more information is available regarding its use in the beauty industry, but is seen in a wide variety of products, including hair care formulas, moisturizers, and make up products.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Despite Potassium Sulfate’s toxic reputation, it is considered a safe ingredient. The Cosmetics Database rates it as a low hazard ingredient and only notes lesser concerns that include organ system toxicity and neurotoxicity, stemming from studies showing brain, nervous system and respiratory effects in animals when exposed to Potassium Sulfate at high doses unlike those found in cosmetic and skin care formulas.
Potassium Stearate
* An emulsifier
Functions:
Potassium Stearate is an emulsifier from the Stearate salt family used in cosmetics and beauty products to stabilize formulas and increasing the thickness, or add lubricating properties. It may also assist in keeping a formula from separating into its oil and liquid components (CosmeticsInfo.org). In its original form, Potassium Stearate is a fine, white powder that has a fatty odor. It is used in a wide variety of skin care and hair care products, including eyeliner, eyeshadow, mascara, lipsticks, blushers, face powders and foundations, and less often in perfumes, deodorants, and hair and skin care formulas.
Potassium Stearate is CIR and FDA approved; the FDA has given it is Generally Recognized as Safe rating and it is used as a direct food additive.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Potassium Sorbate
* A mild preservative
* Please read TIA’s post on Why Products Need Preservatives
Functions:
Potassium Sorbate is a mild preservative being used in cosmetic and skin care formulas as a paraben alternative to prevent or retard the growth of microorganisms and protect products from spoiling, according to CosmeticsInfo.org. Developed from Sorbic Acid, which is naturally found in the berries of the mountain ash tree, Potassium Sorbate is effective against fungi, mold and yeast, but less active against bacteria, and therefore not considered a broad spectrum preservative; it needs to be used in conjunction with other preservatives to ensure formulas are totally protected. It is used in a wide variety of skin care and cosmetic products, including facial, eye and hair care formulas.
Potassium Sorbate is also used as a food preservative and is frequently seen as a wine ingredient to increase shelf life and stability (Wikipedia). It is FDA approved and not considered toxic. It is also CIR approved.
Potassium Hydroxide
* A pH adjuster and buffering agent
* Also known as Caustic Potash
Functions:
Potassium Hydroxide is used in the cosmetic and skin care industry as a pH adjuster or bufferer in a wide variety of formulas, including bath products, cleansing products, fragrances, foot powders, hair dyes and colors, makeup, nail products, shampoos, shaving products, depilatories, skin care products, and suntan products, according to CosmeticsInfo.org. It has a unique ability to attract water molecules from its environment, and ultimately dissolve into the water that it had originally absorbed, balancing the formula without creating excess weight or changing the composition.
Potassium Hydroxide is widely used in soft soap products because of its softness and high levels of solubility; soaps comprised of potassium require less water to liquefy, and can therefore containing higher concentrations of cleaning agents than other liquid soaps that are not potassium-based (Wikipedia).
Potassium Chloride
* A viscosity increasing agent
Functions:
Potassium Chloride is most famous for its use in fertilizer and lethal injections, but is used in cosmetics and skin care formulas as a viscosity increasing agent or thickening agent, according to CosmeticsInfo.org. It is often seen as an ingredient in bath products, cleansing products, eye makeup, skin care products, and hair care products.
Potassium Chloride is an odorless salt composed of potassium and chlorine that naturally occurs as sylvite, and can be extracted from salt water or manufactured by crystallization. It is FDA approved for use as a food additive and is often combined with salt for flavoring purposes (Wikipedia).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate
* A surfactant
Functions:
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is a surfactant and emulsifying agent used as a detergent and cleansing agent, according to CosmeticsCop.com, in a variety of beauty products and cosmetics, including shampoos, facial cleansers, exfoliants, sunscreens, moisturizers, and make up removers.
Potassium Cetyl Phosphate is the potassium salt of a complex mixture of esters of phosphoric acid and Cetyl Alcohol, a multi-functioning fatty alcohol.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Although the Cosmetics Database finds Potassium Cetyl Phosphate to be a 100% safe ingredient and no studies were found that listed any negative side effects or adverse safety measures, one of its primary components, Cetyl Alcohol, can be considered an irritant when used on sensitive skin, so it should be used with some caution.
Recommended Products w/ Potassium Cetyl Phosphate:
Kenneth Mark MD Antioxidant Cream with Astaxanthin, Neocutis Journee Biorestorative Day Cream, Nia 24, Yes to Carrots Moisturizing Day Cream, Calvin Klein Infinite Matte Oil-Free Foundation
Potassium Azelaoyl Diglycinate
* An acne treatment ingredient
* Please read TIA’s post on Azelaic Acid
Functions:
Very little information is available regarding Potassium Azelaoyl Diglycinate, although it does appear as an ingredient in a large number of acne treatments and formulas, and is derived from Azelaic Acid, a known acne fighter. Azelaic Acid has anti-acne and bleaching properties, and to a lesser extent, it serves as a treatment for Rosacea. It acts as an anti-bacterial and keratolytic, returning any skin abnormalities back to normal.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
No information was available regarding safety measures regarding the use of Potassium Azelaoyl Diglycinate. The Cosmetics Database listed it only as an unknown with data gaps. No studies were found to warn of any harmful side effects. However, because it is derived from Azelaic Acid, the same stinging and burning sensations associated with this ingredient may occur, but normally subside over time.
Pomegranate
* A fruit rich in antioxidants
* Please read TIA’s article on What is it? Pomegranate for more information
* Please read TIA’s article on Five Best Botanical Ingredients for Younger Skin
Functions:
Pomegranate has long been touted for its high levels of Vitamin C and antioxidants, which can help prevent cell damage. Several studies have shown its ability to speed wound healing, as well as play a positive role in the repair of sun damaged and aging skin. Pomegranate extracts exert their positive effects by extending the life of fibroblasts, the cells responsible for producing collagen and elastin, the components that give strength and support to the skin (Source).
Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)
* A binder, emulsion stabilizer and film former
Functions:
Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) is a versatile ingredient used in the cosmetics and beauty industry as a binder, film former, emulsion stabilizer, suspending agent and hair fixative, and is seen primarily in products such as mascara, eyeliner, hair conditioners, hair sprays, shampoos and other hair care products, according to the Cosmetics Database and CosmeticsInfo.org. It is keep emulsions from separating into their oil and liquid components, and hold together the ingredients of a compressed tablets or cakes. Polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) also has the ability to dry and form a thin coating on the skin, nail or hair, and when it is seen as an ingredient in hair products, it is used to hold hair styles in place by preventing the hair’s ability to absorb moisture. It is also used in contact lens solution, and as the thickening agent in whitening toothpastes and tooth whitening gels (Wikipedia).
Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE)
* Teflon
Functions:
Although Polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) is more commonly known for its use in pans found in the kitchen, it is now seen in cosmetic and beauty products, in a wide range of products including mineral make up, nail polish, injectable wrinkle fillers, skin care creams, and other formulas. It is used as a bulking agent, slip modifier, binding agent and skin conditioner, according to the Cosmetics Database, and can create a smoother application for a variety of products, and fill in fine lines and wrinkles on the skin.
Polytetrafluoroethylene is also used as the main component of the synthetic filler Gore-Tex, also known as SoftForm and UltraSoft. It is an FDA-approved cosmetic corrective filler used for soft tissue augmentation. According to Dermalogic Surgery, “it is considered to be more of a synthetic implant than a classic injectable material.” However, if it isn’t placed under the skin correctly during surgery, it can be felt.
Polysorbate 80
* A surfactant
* Also known as Tween 80, Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monooleate, and POE (20) sorbitan monooleate
Functions:
Polysorbate 80 is primarily used in cosmetics and beauty products as a surfactant and emulsifier because of its ability to help other ingredients dissolve in a solvent in which they normally would not be able to dissolve, specifically in the case of oil in water (CosmeticsInfo.org). It can also help to reduce surface tension of substances that need to be emulsified. It is seen in a variety of formulas, including skin fresheners, skin care products, skin cleansing products, makeup bases and foundations, shampoos, and fragrance powders, as well as food products.
Polysorbate 60
* A thickening agent
Functions:
Polysorbate 60 is a thickening agent and oily liquid used in cosmetics and skin care formulas “to dissolve in a solvent in which they would not normally dissolve. They also help to form emulsions by reducing the surface tension of the substances to be emulsified,” according to CosmeticsInfo.org. Polysorbate 60 is a surfactant created by reacting sorbitol with ethylene oxide and fatty acids obtained from vegetable fats and oils. It is used to disperse oil in water in formulas, and seen in a wide variety of products, including skin fresheners, skin care products, skin cleansing products, makeup bases and foundations, shampoos, and fragrance powders.
Polysorbate 60 is FDA and CIR approved.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database finds Polysorbate 60 to be a low hazard ingredient, although it does note concerns regarding cancer, and developmental and reproductive toxicity. Studies in the 1950s showed tumor formation and reproductive effects at high doses. It is not considered an irritant.
Polysorbate 20
* A surfactant
* Also known as Tween 20
Functions:
Polysorbate 20 is used in cosmetics and skin care products as a surfactant, emulsifier, and fragrance ingredient. It is derived from Lauric Acid and is also a chemical mixture of sorbitol ethylene oxide, according to Wikipedia. It is sometimes derived from fruits and berries as well, leading to its fragrant properties. Polysorbate 20 can serve as a dispersing agent and mix oil and water, work as a fragrance solubilizer and stabilizer, act as a lubricator, and have a soothing effect on the skin (NatureBath.com).
Polysorbate 20 is FDA and CIR approved.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database rates Polysorbate 20 as a low hazard ingredient, noting developmental and reproductive toxicity as concerns, but finding these results only in animals after high doses were administered. Lesser concerns regarding this ingredient are endocrine disruption, organ toxicity, and irritation, and one or more animal studies show skin irritation at moderate doses.
Polyquaternium 7
* An anti-static agent and film former
Functions:
Polyquaternium 7 is an anti-static agent and film former that is found primarily in hair care products such as shampoos, conditioners, and hair sprays, but is also seen in bath soaps and cleansing products. It prevents the buildup of static electricity and forms a thin coating on the hair shaft that is absorbed by the hair, inhibiting the hair from absorbing moisture and creating frizz, according to CosmeticsInfo.org.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database rates Polyquaternium 7 as a low hazard ingredient, although it does not a concern about the contamination of this ingredient by the impurity Acrylamide. However, according to RealSelf.com, the CIR Expert Panel found that the maximum concentration of 10 ppm is small enough that in cosmetic formulas at less than 5% concentration, “the amount of acrylamide has no toxicological significance.”
Polyquaternium 51
* A humectant
Functions:
Polyquaternium 51 is a skin conditioning ingredient originally developed for the contact lens industry to maintain moisture and counteract dry eye. However, it is now an ingredient used by cosmetic and skin care companies to add moisturizing properties to formulas, while also benefiting from its added film forming properties. Polyquaternium 51 is a “phospholipid copolymer that improves the moisture retention capability of the epidermis, and also serves as a natural barrier against further water loss from the skin, in part by forming a protective film on the epidermis, according to AMC.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database rates Polyquaternium 51 as a 99% safe, low hazard ingredient, only noting data gaps as a concern. No other studies were found that noted negative or hazardous side effects regarding its use.
Recommended Products w/ Polyquaternium 51:
Polyquaternium 47
* A film former and humectant
Functions:
Very little information is available regarding Polyquaternium 47, although it is noted several places to be a film former and humectant. It may neutralize other ingredients as well. According to TheBeautyBrains.com, it is a safe and functional ingredient, although its properties in comparison to other Polyquaterniums are still unclear. All Polyquaterniums provide a positive charge that counteracts the negative charge given by other formulas, such as shampoos. Polyquaternium 47 counteracts the negative charge and provide additional moisture to the hair and skin.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database finds Polyquaternium 47 to be a 100% safe ingredient, but does note data gaps. No other studies were found that noted negative side effects regarding the use of products containing this ingredient.
Polyquaternium 37
* Anti-static agent and film former
Functions:
Polyquaternium 37 is one of the most widely-used members of the Polyquaternium group (similar ingredients with different numbers to indicate their chemical compositions) and is an anti-static agent and film former seen primarily in hair care products. A patent filed by a European beauty company notes that Polyquaternium 37 (in conjunction with fatty alcohol and a surfactant) provides “hair conditioning composition with excellent body enhancing and volume up effect especially for fine hair and also gives hair excellent combability, elasticity and shine;” it goes on to say that it does not way hair down either.
Polyquaternium 37 works by providing a positive charge to counteract the negative charge often found in shampoos and other hair care products. They bond ionically to the hair and “and provide conditioning benefits such as ease of combing, hair alignment, elasticity and shine,” according to the Hairlicious blog.
Polyquaternium 11
* Film former and anti-static agent
Functions:
Polyquaternium 11 is a cloud, straw-colored film former and anti-static agent widely used in hair care products. According to various beauty sites, including CozyCot.com, it also has anti-bacterial properties, although research did not confirm this assertion. It is available in two forms: 50% Polyquaternium-11 dissolved in alcohol, and 19% dissolved in water. Pure Polyquaternium 11 is not available for use in cosmetics and beauty products (CosmeticsInfo.org). The CIR approves it for use below certain concentrations.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database finds Polyquaternium 11 to be a low hazard ingredient, and only notes data gaps and bioaccumulation as concerns. However, CosmeticsInfo.org also mentions the potential inclusion of unreacted Vinylpyrrolidone, a somewhat suspected mutagenic (although studies have shown it to be non-mutagenic), but notes that the low levels of this toxin would not cause harm in cosmetics or beauty products.
Polyquaternium 10
* An anti-static agent and film former
* Also known as Quaternium-19
Functions:
Polyquaternium 10 is a water soluble, white granulated powder that is a widely used ingredient in hair care products because of its anti-static and moisturizing properties. It is also considered a film former, supplying a sheen and coating to hair strands by easily being absorbed by proteins, according to Phibro Chem, an animal health organization, and CosmeticsInfo.org. It is sometimes seen in skin care products as well.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database finds Polyquaternium 10 to be a low hazard, 99% safe ingredient, and it is approved for use in limited concentrations by the CIR. According to RealSelf.com, it has a low order of toxicity, and studies showed that it “adhered to keratin tissue and was poorly absorbed” when applied to skin. Concentrations up to 5% were only mildly irritating to the skin and eyes, and under 2% concentrations caused no reaction.
Polyoxyl 40 Stearate
* An emulsifier
* Also known as PEG – 40 Stearate
* Sometimes classified as a PEG – Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
Polyoxyl 40 Stearate is used in cosmetics and beauty products primarily as a surfactant and emulsifier. It occurs naturally as a white, waxy or flaky substance, according to The Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations. CosmeticsInfo.org notes that Polyoxyl 40 Stearate, as part of the PEG Stearate group, are formed from a naturally fatty acid known as Stearic Acid. The PEG Sterates are used in cosmetics and skin care formulas because they can “clean the skin and hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed away.”
Also known as PEG – 40 Stearate, Polyoxyl 40 Stearate has a molecular weight associated with all PEGs. Its low molecular weight of 40 means that it can penetrate healthy skin, but minimally.
Polyoxyethylene Sorbitol Tetraoleate
* An emulsifier
* Also known as Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate
* Sometimes classified as a PEG – Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
Polyoxyethylene Sorbitol Tetraoleate is used in cosmetics and beauty products primarily as a surfactant and emulsifier. It has the ability to be effective at low concentrations, to remain a stable ingredient, and is less irritating than many other conventional surfactants, according to a 1978 Japanese study entitled “Some characteristics of polyoxyethylene sorbitol tetra-oleate: Oligomer type emulsifier.” CosmeticsInfo.org also notes that Polyoxyethylene Sorbitol Tetraoleate, as part of the PEG Sorbitan/Sorbitol Fatty Acid Esters group, reduces surface tension in emulsions, therefore making it easier for other ingredients to dissolve. It also helps water and oil, and oil and dirt, to mix, therefore allowing them to be whisked away more easily.
Also known as Sorbeth-30 Tetraoleate, Polyoxyethylene Sorbitol Tetraoleate has a molecular weight associated with all PEGs. Its low molecular weight of 30 means that it can penetrate healthy skin, but minimally.
Polymethylsilsesquioxane
* A silicone
* Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: Silicones and Should We Avoid Them
Functions:
Polymethylsilsesquioxane is a silicone ingredient used in many skin care, hair care, and cosmetic formulas, most often as a film former that creates a lubricating, smooth, silky feel and increases the skin or hair’s ability to repel water, according to Marshall Brain, the founder of How Stuff Works. It is is a “spherical, fine particle silicone resin” that is comprised of very small particles, and therefore easily distributed in formulas. In a study done by Grant Inc., a company responsible for cosmetic development, Polymethylsilsesquioxane can be used in particles as small as less than 10 microns, and can impart anti-caking and slip properties to the skin in hair, in addition to its lubrication and water repellent abilities.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Polylysine
* A film former
* A preservative
Functions:
Polylysine is a polypeptide of the essential amino acid, L-lysine, a popular food preservative. It is used in cosmetics and beauty products for two reasons: its ability to serve as a preservative, as well as its properties as a film former and hair conditioning agent. As a preservative, Polylysine can inhibit the growth of microorganisms, and specifically produce an antimicrobial effect against yeast, fungi, and bacteria, according to Wikipedia.
Polylysine may have anti-aging properties as well, due to its protein and amino acid content. According to an article on Amino Acids for Anti-Aging, “Amino acids … act by attaching to skin cells to fill in lines and make skin appear smoother, in addition to improving skin tone and color, providing exfoliation, reducing fine lines and wrinkles, and minimizing the appearance of photodamage.” Amino acids are powerful anti-aging ingredients because of their ability to communicate with cells, improving their ability to affect aging cells and repair them.
Polyhydroxystearic Acid
* Suspending agent
Functions:
Although Polyhydroxystearic Acid is a widely used ingredient in skin care, beauty and cosmetic products, very little information is available regarding its properties. According to Skin Essentials and the Cosmetic Database, as well as various patents that include it in formulas, it is a suspending agent and emulsifier that is used to stabilize products. It is often seen in formulas that contain an SPF component, such as sunscreens.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Polyhydroxystearic Acid is rated as a low hazard ingredient by the Cosmetics Database, and is only known to cause bioaccumlation, therefore limiting its use in Canada. Otherwise, the only concern found by the Cosmetics Database was a lack of data; no studies were found that noted negative side effects or safety measures concerning Polyhydroxystearic Acid as an ingredient in cosmetics and skin care products.
Recommended Products w/ Polyhydroxystearic Acid:
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate
* An emulsifier
* Also known as Tetraglyceryl monoisostearate
Functions:
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate is a plant-based emulsifier used in cosmetics and skin care products to stabilize formulas. One of its main components, Isostearic Acid, is a mild fatty acid also seen in many cleansers and cosmetic powders. Little information is available regarding Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate, although it does appear in many products as a primary emulsifying agent (SusanBrownsBaby.com, a cosmetics company, and The National Institutes of Health).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate is considered a low hazard ingredient by the Cosmetic Database, and is rated as 99% safe, noting only data gaps as a concern. No studies were found that noted any adverse reactions or side effects upon using this ingredient in cosmetic or skin care formulas.
Recommended Products w/ Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate:
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate
* An emulsifier
Functions:
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is a plant-based emulsifier, and sometimes emollient, seen in cosmetics and beauty products. It is considered a glyceryl ester, an ingredient composed of fat and oil that can be altered (to liquid, or solid) depending on temperature, according to CosmeticsCop.com. It combines Stearic Acid (a potential irritant) with the condensation product of Methylglucose and Polyglycerin-3.
Beyond its emulsifying and conditioning properties, Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is also used as a sunscreen ingredient because of its ability to provide water resistance when serving as a lipid-based surfactant. However, it has a low resistance rate of about 50% – 65% (CosmeticsBusiness.com).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Polyglyceryl-3 Methylglucose Distearate is considered a low hazard ingredient by the Cosmetics Database, which only notes data gaps as a concern. However, the inclusion of Stearic Acid may cause this ingredient to be irritating, although its other lipid components may lessen this effect.
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate / Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate
* An emollient
Functions:
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate and Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate are hydroxy compounds used in cosmetics and skin care products as emollients and surfactants, and are found primarily in lip glosses and lipsticks, although they are also seen in foundations, sunscreens, bronzers, moisturizers and anti-aging serums.
Little information exists regarding these specific compounds, but Polyglyceryl Esters are formed by combing fatty acids with hydroxyl groups of polyglycerol, and are used in cosmetics to stabilize formulas, according to CyberLipid.org.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
According to the Cosmetic Database, Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate is a low hazard ingredient with concerns only regarding data gaps and bioaccumulation; the Cosmetic Database listing for Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate notes it as 100% safe for use in cosmetics and beauty products. However, neither ingredient is CIR approved.
Recommended Products w/ Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate:
Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaoleate
* An emulsifying agent
Functions:
Very little information is available regarding the use of Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaoleate in cosmetics. CosmeticAnalysis.com lists it is an emulsifying agent, and the Cosmetics Database notes it as an emollient as well. Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaoleate is used by cosmetic company Seikisho in its facial masks and by Caudalie Vinexpert Firming Serum, perhaps indicating its firming properties.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Polyglyceryl-10 Pentaoleate is found to be 100% safe by the Cosmetics Database and no other studies were found that list any adverse side effects regarding its use.
Polyethylene Terephthalate
* An adhesive and film former
* A plastic compound, often used in packaging
* Also known as PET and PETE
Functions:
Polyethylene Terephthalate is a polymer resin. According to Wikipedia, it “can be semi-rigid to rigid, depending on its thickness, and is very lightweight.” Polyethylene Terephthalate serves as an efficient moisture barrier, specifically as a barrier to alcohol and solvents, and is used in cosmetics and beauty products to bond ingredients and increase the thickness of formulas. It forms a thin coating on the skin, nails or hair upon drying, and is often seen in hair sprays and other hair fixatives because of its ability to serve as a moisture barrier, preventing the hair from absorbing moisture and losing its hold and style (CosmeticsInfo.org).
Polyethylene
* A versatile ingredient seen as an emulsion stabilizer, viscosity increasing agent, and binding agent
* Also known as Polythene (primarily in UK products)
* Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
Polytheylene is a polymer, or plastic, used in a variety of skin care and beauty products, including as eyeliners, mascara, eye shadows, eyebrow pencils, lipstick, blushers, face powders and foundations, as well as in skin cleansers and skin care products, because of its versatile properties as an abrasive ingredient, adhesive, binder, bulking agent, emulsion stabilizer, film former, oral care agent and as a viscosity increasing agent, according to CosmeticsInfo.org. Polytheylene is also a main component of Polyethylene Glycols, or PEGs.
Polydodecanamideaminium Triazadiphenylethenesulfonate
* A coloring agent that uses nylon components
Functions:
There is little information available regarding Polydodecanamideaminium Triazadiphenylethenesulfonate, although the Cosmetics Database does note that it is a coloring and opacifying agent formed by “the reaction product of Nylon-12(q.v.) and the compound.”
It is seen most often in cosmetics and beauty products as a component of a patented compound known as LipoLight OAP/PVA, which combines Polydodecanamideaminium Triazadiphenylethenesulfonate with Polyvinylalcohol Crosspolymer, according to Adina Cosmetics Ingredient database. LipoLight OAP/PVA uses Polydodecanamideaminium Triazadiphenylethenesulfonate to reduce the appearance of skin imperfections through fluorescent light emission and light diffusion. According to research, “A fluorescent compound is chemically fixed to a microporous nylon-12 support, and encapsulated with a translucent polymer coating. The fluorescent compound incorporated into the polymer absorbs UV light and re-emits that energy as diffuse visible light. The emitted light illuminates the shadowed areas of wrinkles, enlarged pores and other skin imperfections, thus significantly reducing their appearance.”
Polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS)
* A silicone
* Also known as Dimethicone
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: Silicones and Should We Avoid Them
Functions:
Polydimethylsiloxane is a widely-used and versatile ingredient seen in many skin care and beauty products because of its ability to serve as an anti-foaming agent, skin protectant and conditioner; it is known to prevent water and moisture loss in the skin by forming a hydrating barrier. According to research published in Skin Research and Technology, this barrier also serves as a mild water repellent, and has been shown to fill in fine lines, giving skin a temporary “plump” look. Polydimethylsiloxane is an easily spreadable silicone oil that creates a coating when applied to the skin that feels smooth and silky to the touch, although this effect is superficial.
Polybutene
* A thickening agent
Functions:
Polybutene is a oligomeric oil, sometimes derived from petroleum, that is used in its hydrogenated form in cosmetics and beauty products, primarily in lipsticks and balms, as a binder, epilating agent, thickener and lubricant (Wikipedia). It is naturally tacky or sticky and is also used for its adhesive properties, according to research. There is little detailed information available regarding the use of Polybutene in cosmetics, although it is widely used and thought to be a versatile, effective ingredient.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetic Database finds Polybutene to be a low hazard ingredient and notes low incidents of skin, eye and lung irritation in regards to its use. It is FDA and CIR approved for use (Source).
Recommended Products w/ Polybutene:
Blistex Deep Renewal, Procyte Ti-Silc Sunscreen SPF 60, Grassroots Research Pomegranate Super Antioxidant Cream, Korres Lip Butter
Polyacrylamide
* Primarily used as a binder, film former and thickener
* Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: Aquamid and Is It Safe?
Functions:
Polyacrylamide is a polymer that is formed from units of acrylamide, a known neurotoxin. However, Polyacrylamide itself is not considered to be toxic, but is a controversial ingredient because of its potential ability to secrete Acrylamide, according to Wikipedia. It is used in cosmetics and beauty products in two different forms, either as a soft gel in its cross-linked form, which has highly water-absorbent properties, or in its straight-chain form, as a thickener and suspending agent. It has also been used recently as an active ingredient in the subdermal wrinkle filler, Aquamid.
Poly(methyl methacrylate) (PMMA)
* A plastic filler used in cosmetics
Functions:
Although Poly(methyl methacrylate), or PMMA, is widely known as a plastic component used in products such as plexiglass and other transparent glass substitutes, it is appearing as an ingredient in a number of cosmetics and aestheticians’ offices as a filler for wrinkles and fine lines. According to Wikipedia, Poly(methyl methacrylate) is chemically “is the synthetic polymer of methyl methacrylate” (an organic methyl ester). It’s naturally compatible with human tissue, and was a frequent component of contact lenses in the past; it’s also been used for dentures and bone replacement, when combined with bovine collagen.
When used in cosmetic surgery, Poly(methyl methacrylate) microspheres are suspended in biological fluid and injected under the skin to reduce wrinkles or scars permanently. More recently, small particles are purified and used as a filler for foundation, or as a lubrication enhancer for powder and liquid foundation (Sekisui Plastics, Inc.). It “can be added to make it easier to apply cosmetics smoothly, cover up wrinkles, and change their texture. Porous particles are usable as absorber, and elastic particles providing a soft feel are also available.”
Pogostemon Cablin
* Patchouli
Functions:
Pogostemon Cablin oil, more commonly known as patchouli, has been used for centuries for its strong, woodsy scent in fragrances and perfumes. The oil is distilled from the leaves of these plants which grow throughout Asia and the Caribbean. Traditionally, Pogostemon Cablin has been used to induce relaxation, treat headaches, colds, nausea, diarrhea and abdominal pain; it is also thought to be an insect repellent, and has been used in Japan and Malaysia to treat venomous snake bites (Wikipedia).
According to Dermaxime.com, Pogostemon Cablin has cicatrisant (healing product that helps form scar tissue) and cytophylactic (stimulates cellular regeneration) properties that help stimulate new cell growth and calm inflamed skin. It is used as an ingredient in acne treatment formulas because of its ability to serve as an anti-inflammatory while also preventing scarring. Pogostemon Cablin also has astringent properties that revitalize the skin, and diuretic properties that reduce excess fluids and puffiness; it is considered antiseptic as well.
POE Glyceryl Monostearate
* A fatty acid ester
Functions:
POE Glyceryl Monostearate is a fatty acid ester seen in cosmetics and beauty products (hair and skin) for a variety of uses including as a: thickening agent, emulsifier, anti-sticking agent, dispersing agent, solvent, greasing agent, and perfume dilutant (Source). It is a Glyceryl Ester; Glyceryl Monostearate specifically occurs naturally in the body and in fatty foods, and is formed during the breakdown of fats in the body and can also be produced synthetically, according to research.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Little research was found regarding POE Glyceryl Monostearate, although Glyceryl Monstearate was reviewed by the Cosmetics Database and found to be a moderate hazard due to contamination concerns regarding Glyceryl Diesters, enhanced skin absorption, irritation warnings, and organ system toxicity.
Phytosteryl/ Behenyl/ Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate
* An emollient
* Ceramide III
Functions:
Phytosteryl/ Behenyl/ Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate is an emollient and conditioning agent used in beauty products and cosmetics to prevent dehydration and reinforce the skin’s natural protective lipid barrier (Source). It includes Ceramide III, the phytoshingosine backbone acylated with oleic acid.
Ceramide III is one of many ceramides, or naturally occurring lipds that are part of skin’s natural barrier system and extracellular matrix, which has a composition of 50% ceramides, 25% cholesterol, and 15% free fatty acids, according to CosmeticsCop.com. Ceramide III can renew the skin’s protective layer and aid in moisture control, repairing and renewing sensitive, dry and aging skin (Source).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Phytosteryl/ Behenyl/ Octyldodecyl Lauroyl Glutamate was found to be 100% safe by the Cosmetic Database. It is considered a low hazard and the only concern noted is a data gap in information. However, no other studies were found to corroborate the safety of this ingredient.
Phytosphingosine
* A conditioning and anti-bacterial lipid
Functions:
Phytosphingosine is a natural chemical found in the body and is part of the family of lipids. These fats (aka active lipids, free sphingoids, or free sphingoid bases) are formed by the break down of ceramides and are present at high levels in the stratum corneum, according to research. Ceramides are signaling molecules that alert cells to perform apostosis, programming a cell to die.
Phytosphingosine lipids inhibit micro-organisms and their second-messenger function, and are therefore considered part of the body’s natural defense system, and have bacteria-killing properties. Not only does this enable Phytosphingosine to prevent acne from forming, but recent studies in France have also shown it to act as an anti-inflammatory at concentrations as low as 1% (SkinGeek.com).
Phytosphingosine is currently seen in a variety of products as a skin and hair conditioning agent, although it is also being used to treat acne due to its anti-bacteria and anti-inflammatory properties.
Phytonadione
* Vitamin K
Functions:
Phytonadione is a fat-soluble vitamin naturally made in the liver that is used by the body to ensure proper blood clotting. It is used in cosmetics and beauty products “to help diminish vascular conditions that emerge as skin imperfections such as dark circles under the eyes, redness from rosacea, and broken capillaries including spider veins,” according to research.
It is often seen as a key ingredient in under eye creams that claim to reduce or eliminate dark circles, although it is often used in combination with other antioxidants and ingredients. A 2004 study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology studied the results of 57 patients with dark circles who applied a gel containing 2% vitamin K plus 0.1% retinol, vitamin E, and vitamin C over the course of 8 weeks. 47% of the testers noted “fair to moderate” improvement in their dark circles (Source). However, some scientists note that applying Vitamin K topically can yield no direct effects to under eye circles, spider veins, or any other vascular conditions, because Vitamin K can only be produced in the liver and be delivered internally. They credit the effects of the topical creams to the combination of ingredients and anti-inflammatory antioxidant properties.
Phytantriol
* An alcohol
Functions:
Phytantriol is an alcohol found in beauty products and cosmetics for a variety of uses, including as an anti-caking agent, hair conditioning agent, skin-conditioning agent and humectant (Source). It is primarily in hair care products because of its ability to reduce the breakage of hair. According to research, “Additional studies in combination with Panthenol and its derivatives showed an overall improvement in the hair texture. Over the years, it was shown that the addition of Phytantriol to conventional hair care products, improved their performance by increasing the deposition of certain materials on the hair shaft. Other studies showed prevention of split-ends and increased moisturization. Moreover, the addition of Phytantriol to leave-on and rinse-off shampoos and conditioners for use with hot blow-dryers, protected the hair shaft. The protection was further enhanced in combination with UV filters.”
Phytantriol is also found in skin and nail preparations thanks to its water-binding properties (RealSelf.com and CosmeticsCop.com).
Phyllanthus Emblica
* Amla Fruit or Indian Gooseberry
Functions:
Phyllanthus Emblica is a natural plant used in folk medicine to treat a variety of ailments and for a number of applications. All parts of the plant are used in the herbal preparations, including the fruit, seed, leaves, root, bark and flowers, according to Wikipedia. Traditionally, this ingredient was thought to have cooling, astringent and drying properties, and was used to stimulate hair growth by nourishing the hair and scalp and even preventing prematurely graying hair. The high tannin content of Phyllanthus Emblica was also used as a dye in inks, shampoos and hair oils.
Phosphatidylcholine
* An emulsifier that is also being used to break down fat cells in new liposuction treatments
Functions:
Phosphatidylcholine is a member of the class of phospholipids, and is created by isolating distinct components from egg yolks and natural soy beans (Wikipedia). It is used as a skin conditioning agent, emulsifier and surfactant in beauty products and cosmetics, although it also being used and tested as an ingredient in liposuction formulas and alternatives because of its ability to break down fat cells, including in Mesotherapy.
Phosphatidylcholine is a unique phosopholipid because of its structure. It has a choline head and a string of essential fatty acid chains that make up a tail; these characteristics allow Phosphatidylcholine to assist in communication and repair of cell membranes throughout the body, including within the skin. According to research, “Choline is used in the synthesis structural components of all human cell membranes. Choline is used to make the cell signaling molecules, platelet activating factor (PAF) and sphingophosphorylcholine.” The essential fatty acids contained within Phosphatidylcholine assist in manufacturing and repairing cell membranes, and “Omega-3s are used in the formation of cell walls, making them supple and flexible.”
Phenylethyl Resorcinol
* A whitening agent
* Also known as SymWhite 377
Functions:
Phenylethyl Resorcinol is also known as SymWhite 377 and was developed by Symrise researchers to serve as a lightening and brightening ingredient in skin care products, hair lightening products, and cosmetics. It is an antioxidant that is considered effective in influencing the formation of pigmentation, and therefore able to lighten the skin, according to research. It is a synthetic compound that is partially derived from natural lightening compounds found in scotch pine bark, and is considered a reliable whitening agent.
According to studies published by Symrise (no independent studies were found), when directly compared to B-Arbutin, SymWhite 377 (Phenylethyl Resorcinol) was shown to be over one hundred times as effective at lightening hair, and when tested in vivo on skin that had not been exposed to light, 0.5% concentrations of SymWhite 377 proved to be more effective than 1.0% kojic acid.
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid
* An active sunscreen ingredient
* Also known as Ensuizole
* Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: Sunscreen Active Ingredients
Functions:
Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid is an organic compound used in sunscreens and other cosmetic and beauty products with a sunscreen or SPF component because of its ability to block UVB rays. It is known in the United States as Ensuizole, according to Wikipedia. Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid has the ability to block UVB rays, but does not protect against long range UVA rays; because of this, it is often paired with other ingredients, including avobenzone, titanium dioxide, zinc oxide or Tinosorb. Its potency and protective qualities do not degrade in sun exposure, and it is possible that is also partly decreases the degradation of other UVB blocker ingredients in sunscreens. Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid also has the ability to convert incident ultraviolet radiation into less damaging infrared radiation, or heat. It has a light, non-greasy finish (Source).
Phenyl Trimethicone
* A versatile silicone derivative
* Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: Silicones and Should We Avoid Them
Functions:
Phenyl Trimethicone is a derivative of silica, or silcione, and is used in cosmetics and beauty products as an anti-foaming agent, hair conditioning agent, and skin-conditioning agent (Cosmetic Database). It reduces the tendency of formulas to generate foam when shaken, and increases hair’s body, suppleness, and sheen, by improving the texture of hair that has been damaged by chemical treatment, according to CosmeticsInfo.org.
Phenyl Trimethicone provides heat resistance in haircare applications, as well as non-oily “emolliency and anti-whitening properties in antiperspirants” (National Institutes of Health). It also slows the loss of water from the skin by forming a barrier on the skin’s surface.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Phenoxyethanol
* A preservative
* Also known as Ethylene Glycol Monophenyl Ether
* Please read TIA’s articles on What Is It: Phenoxyethanol and Is It Safe? and The FDA’s Warning on Phenoxyethanol
* Please read TIA’s other articles on What Is It: Preservatives and Parabens and Are They Safe? and What Is It: Natural Preservative Alternatives to Phenoxyethanol and Parabens
Functions:
Phenoxyethanol, also known as Ethylene Glycol Monophenyl Ether, is a glycol ether and bactericide (that functions as a disinfectant, antiseptic or antibiotic) that is primarily used as a preservative in cosmetics and beauty products. It is also seen as a fragrance additive, a fixative for perfumes, an insect repellent ingredient in sunscreens, a topical antiseptic ingredient, and solvent (Wikipedia).
Phaeodactylum Tricornutum
* An algae extract that can repair damaged proteins
Functions:
Phaeodactylum Tricornutum is an extract of the algae Phaeodactylum tricornutum, Bacillariophyceae, and is used in cosmetics and beauty products as a humectant and soothing agent (Source). It is thought to protect and repair age and UV-induced damage to proteins, which are major targets for oxidative damage.
According to a study published in 2004 in Cosmetics and Toiletries entitled “Phytoplankton: The New Frontier for Stress-Relieving Cosmetic Ingredients,” as well as a patent filed by a French cosmetic company, Phaeodactylum Tricornutum promotes “the proteasome activity of skin cells, particularly keratinocytes, fibroblasts or melanocytes … It is acknowledged that UVA, most of which passes through the epidermis, causes the production of oxidizing species such as free radicals, or reactive forms of oxygen, which react at various levels in the skin to damage the skin cells. This results in inflammatory manifestations or the appearance of actinic aging, particularly in the form of wrinkles.”
Perfluorodecalin
* Dissolves and delivers oxygen
Functions:
Perfluorodecalin is a fluorocarbon and derivative of decalin, and used in cosmetics and beauty products as to dissolve and deliver oxygen to the skin in formulas (Wikipedia). It is also used as a skin conditioning agent, detangler, and solvent in some formulas. Perfluorodecalin’s ability to dissolve oxygen is thought to revitalize skin and reduce wrinkles, increasing the partial pressure of oxygen (pO2), according to research.
Some studies have shown that formulas that include Perflurodecalin improve the skin’s barrier function resulting in increased moisturizing efficacy. However, there are no studies to prove that added oxygen can actually repair wrinkled skin or prevent lines from forming. Conversely, too much oxygen can enhance the number of unstable oxygen molecules which cause free radical damage.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Pentylene Glycol
* A humectant
Functions:
Pentylene Glycol is an organic compound humectant used in cosmetics and beauty products that is also secondarily used as a solvent and preservative. It is both water and oil-soluble and can have moisture-binding and antimicrobial properties (Source).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetic Database rates Pentylene Glycol as a low hazard ingredient and only notes studies done in the 1970s that warn that high doses have shown neuro and organ toxicity in animals, as well as skin irritation. However, recent studies have been published showing Pentylene Glycol to be an irritant that causes contact dermatitis, suggesting this skin care product ingredient could be an emerging allergen. “It has properties that are similar to a known allergen–propylene glycol–although it is considered by some to be less irritating or allergenic.” In a case in Belgium published in Contact Dermatitis, a patient developed facial and eyelid dermatitis; in two cases in Cleveland, patients developed hand and body dermatitis, all after using topical creams containing Pentylene Glycol.
Pentasodium Pentetate
* A chelating agent
Functions:
Pentasodium Pentetate is a chelating agent used in cosmetics and beauty products “prevent various mineral components from binding together and negatively affecting the formulation” (Source). It is the salt of Pentetic Acid, and is a compound that binds metal and inactivates metallic ions, such as calcium and magnesium, to help maintain the stability and appearance of cosmetic products. This inactivation also helps to prevent the oxidative deterioration of cosmetics and personal care products, according to CosmeticsInfo.org.
The addition of chelating agents to hard water causes metals to form a complex with the chelating agent, creating superior foaming and cleaning performance. Pentasodium Pentetate also dissolves metals, preventing them from being deposited onto the hair, scalp and skin.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The absence of significant skin penetration of all chelating agents means that Pentasodium Pentetate did not pose any reproductive or developmental toxicity risk when used in cosmetics and personal care products. However, it can be an eye irritant (Source).
Pentane
* A solvent and propellant
* Also known as N-Pentane, Amyl Hydride, or Skellysolve A
Functions:
Pentane is an organic compound used as a solvent or propellant in beauty products and cosmetics, and most often seen as an ingredient in hair sprays (aerosols) and shaving creams. Pentane itself is component of some fuels and has properties similar to those of butane and hexane; it is very flammable and readily forms explosive mixtures with air (Wikipedia and MSDS Safety Data Sheet).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Pentane is considered a low to moderate hazard by the Cosmetic Database, which notes organ toxicity and irritation as concerns depending on usage. The MSDS Safety Data sheet also finds Pentane to be an irritant that is harmful by inhalation, ingestion and has a risk of skin absorption.
Pentaerythrityl Tetraoctanoate
* An emollient
Functions:
Little information is available regarding Pentaerythrityl Tetraoctanoate. It is an ester found in cosmetics and beauty products because of its binding and moisturizing properties; it is also used as a viscosity increasing agent. It is a synthetic compound derived from fatty acids, according to research.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Pentaerythrityl Tetraoctanoate has been reviewed by the Cosmetic Database and was found to be 100% safe for use. No adverse side effects or safety measures were listed, and no studies were found that listed it is an irritant.
Recommended Products w/ Pentaerythrityl Tetraoctanoate:
Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate
* An emollient
Functions:
Very little information is available regarding Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate. The Cosmetic Database notes its uses as an emollient, binder, skin conditioning agent, and viscosity increasing agent. Further research reveals that it can be vegetable derived ester, and is a slightly yellowish liquid with good emulsification stability (Source).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
No studies were found that listed any adverse side effects or safety measures regarding the use of Pentaerythrityl Tetraethylhexanoate in cosmetics or beauty products. The Cosmetic Database finds it 100% safe for use.
Pentaerythrityl Rosinate
* An emollient
* Previously known as Pentaerythritol Rosinate
Functions:
Pentaerythrityl Rosinate is used as an emollient, viscosity increasing agent, and secondarily as a film former in cosmetics and beauty products; it is most often seen in eye shadows, mascaras, and makeup bases, according to CosmeticsInfo.org. It acts as a lubricant on the skin’s surface, giving skin a soft and smooth appearance, and increases the thickness of the lipid portion formulas. Pentaerythrityl Rosinate is produced from wood rosin, a by-product of paper pulping.
The FDA has approved Pentaerythrityl Rosinate, but only as a base for chewing gum at this time.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Although the Cosmetic Database notes Pentaerythrityl Rosinate as a low hazard ingredient, it has not been cleared for use by the CIR because of insufficient data, specifically regarding its chemical structure, genotoxicity, and impurity content. A report published in the International Journal of Toxicology entitled “Amended final report on the safety assessment of pentaerythrityl rosinate” does note that Pentaerythrityl Rosinate may be an irritant, and formulations with the ingredient at concentrations of 7-9.2% resulted in minimal dermal irritation.
Pentadecalactone
* A fragrance ingredient
Functions:
Pentadecalactone is a perfume and fragrance ingredient added to cosmetics and beauty products. It is known for its sweet, powdery, and woody odor. Pentadecalactone is one of the key phermones produced by the apocrine glands of the male armpit, and is credited with attracting females; it is found in other mammals as well, according to research. It is FDA approved for use as an indirect food additive.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
According to the Cosmetic Database, Pentadecalactone is 77% safe and considered a low hazard ingredient. Many of the concerns regarding this ingredient stem from environmental hazards, although studies have shown that causes metabolic effects when administered at high doses to mice. A study published in Food and Cosmetics Toxicology in 1975 also showed skin irritation in rabbits (Source).
Recommended Products w/ Pentadecalactone:
Pelargonium Graveolens
* Geranium Oil
Functions:
Pelargonium Graveolens is a geranium extract used in cosmetics and personal care products as a fragrance ingredient. It is cultivated in large numbers in South Africa, and known for its rose-like scent, although it is also used for other smells it imparts, including citrus, mint, coconut and nutmeg, as well as various fruits. It is sometimes known as rose geranium, old fashion rose geranium, and rose-scent geranium, according to Wikipedia. It is considered a less expensive alternative to other rose oils, and is often used in aromatherapy formulas as well.
Pelargonium Graveolens has other skin care properties as well. According to Dermaxime.com, this ingredient is known to create a balance between oily and dry skin by balancing the production of sebum; this balance assists in boosting and improving the elasticity of the skin. It also stimulates the lymphatic system, releasing excess water that may be retained in the tissue. This may not only prevent cellulite, but can also relieve swelling. Pelargonium Graveolens also has therapeutic abilities that can calm irritated skin, clear acne, and heal bruises, burns, cuts and eczema, due to its astringent, antiseptic, tonic, antibiotic and anti-infectious properties.
PEGs
* Primarily used as an emollient and emulsifier
* Also known as Polyethylene Glycol
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
PEG is the acronym for Polyethylene Glycol. Various forms of PEG compounds are mixed with fatty acids and fatty alcohols to create a variety of substances that have diverse functions in cosmetics, including acting as surfactants, binding agents (to keep ingredients blended), stabilizers, and emollients (Source). PEG is always followed by a number, which represents the approximate molecular weight of that compound. PEGs are controversial ingredients in cosmetics and beauty products, in part because of their ability to penetrate the skin and be absorbed into the body, or assist other chemicals and ingredients in absorption. According to research, lower molecular weight PEG ingredients were minimally absorbed and higher molecular weight PEGs (PEG-75 and greater) were not absorbed through intact skin.
PEG/PPG-8/3 Laurate
* Primarily used as an emulsion stabilizer in hair care products
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
PEG/PPG-8/3 Laurate is the product formed by the reaction of Lauric Acid with an average of 8 moles of Ethylene Oxide and 3 moles of Propylene Oxide. It is primarily used in hair care products as an emulsion stabilizer, because of its thickening, silicone properties. However, it is also seen as a hair conditioning agent, humectant, surfactant, and skin conditioning agent. According to a patent filed by Avon, it “can be added directly into a vehicle for a water-based shine gel or other hair care composition, without any dilution that is normally needed for silicones. This vehicle is preferably aqueous based. Thus, the use of ethoxylated ester enables the formulators to more easily formulate the present compositions than a conventional silicone product, and at a fraction of the cost of a traditional silicone product.”
PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol
* A surfactant
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol is a PEG used primarily as a surfactant in beauty products and cosmetics. It is sometimes seen as an emulsifier as well. PEG is the acronym for Polyethylene Glycol; PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol the is polyethylene glycol ether of Rapeseed Sterol (Source). The number 10 in PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol indicates its low molecular weight, and in turn, low absorption rate.
Despite the many fears regarding PEGs, including PEG-10 Rapeseed Sterol, they are seen as an ingredient in a large number of products because of their diverse properties. In a study published in the Toxicology journal in 2005, entitled “Safety assessment on polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and their derivatives as used in cosmetic products,” it was concluded that: “Taking into consideration all available information from related compounds, as well as the mode and mechanism of action, no safety concern with regard to these endpoints could be identified. Based on the available data it is therefore concluded that PEGs of a wide molecular weight range (200 to over 10,000), their ethers (laureths. ceteths, ceteareths, steareths, and oleths), and fatty acid esters (laurates, dilaurates, stearates, distearates) are safe for use in cosmetics.”
PEG 8 Laurate
* A surfactant
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
PEG 8 Laurate is the polyethylene glycol ester of Lauric Acid and is used in cosmetics and beauty products as a surfactant and emulsifying agent. PEG 8 Laurate’s low molecular weight means that it is minimally absorbed by the skin (Source).
The inclusion of Lauric Acid, or coconut oil, makes this PEG more irritating than other PEGs, which are generally considered non-irritants. Although coconut oil is touted for its moisturizing and anti-microbial properties, it is considered an allergen. It is primarily used as a fragrance ingredient and surfactant in cosmetics and beauty products. PEG 8 Laurate is FDA and CIR approved for use, but not on broken skin.
PEG 75 Lanolin
* An emollient and surfactant derived from Lanolin
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
PEG 75 Lanolin is a PEG that helps to form emulsions by reducing the surface tension of the substances to be emulsified. It also acts as a lubricant on the skin’s surface, giving the skin a soft and smooth appearance (Source). Sometimes PEG 75 Lanolin is seen as a surfactant ingredient as well. PEG Lanolin ingredients are prepared from whole lanolin, a product of sheep sebaceous glands, which is obtained from sheered wool.
PEG 5 Cocamide
* A surfactant
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
PEG 5 Cocamide is a Polyethylene Glycol amide of Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Acid, in which the fatty acids are derived from coconut oil. It is used in beauty products and cosmetics as a surfactant, emulsifier and foam stabilizer. According to research, PEGs “are often reacted with fatty acids to make formulas that have thickening and foam stabilizing properties. When chemically combined with fatty acids from coconut oil, it makes detergents like PEG-5 Cocamide, which is used in shampoos as a surfactant, emulsifier, and foam stabilizer.” PEG 5 Cocamide’s low molecular weight means that it can penetrate healthy skin, but minimally.
PEG 40 Stearate
* A surfactant and cleansing agent
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
PEG 40 Stearate is used in cosmetics and beauty products primarily as a surfactant and cleansing agent, because PEG Stearates’ ability to clean the skin and hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed away, according to CosmeticsInfo.org. However, it is also seen as an emollient, because of secondary properties.
Unlike typical PEGs, (whose identifying number corresponds to their molecular weight) the numerical value of each PEG Stearate corresponds to the average number of ethylene oxide monomers in the polyethylene chain (from 2 – 150).
PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil
* An emulsifier and fragrance ingredient
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is the polyethylene glycol derivatives of hydrogenated castor oil, and is an amber colored, slightly viscous liquid that has a naturally mildly fatty odor. It is used in cosmetics and beauty products as an emulsifier, surfactant, and fragrance ingredient, according to research.
PEGs are not considered to be irritants or sensitizers, and are CIR and FDA approved for use, but not on broken skin. The CIR has found that PEG 40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is safe for use in concentrations of up to 100% without causing irritation, although it has been shown to increase the sensitization potential of other ingredients. It’s molecular weight of 40 means that it is minimally absorbed by the skin.
PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate
* A surfactant and emulsifier
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
PEG 30 Dipolyhydroxystearate is used in beauty products and cosmetics an emulsifying agent and surfactant, more specifically as a lipophilic polymeric emulsifier. It is the Polyethylene Glycol diester of Polyhydroxystearic Acid, and is minimally absorbed by skin because of its low molecular weight, according to research.
Despite the many fears regarding PEGs, they are seen as an ingredient in a large number of products because of their diverse properties. In a study published in the Toxicology journal in 2005, entitled “Safety assessment on polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and their derivatives as used in cosmetic products,” it was concluded that: “Taking into consideration all available information from related compounds, as well as the mode and mechanism of action, no safety concern with regard to these endpoints could be identified. Based on the available data it is therefore concluded that PEGs of a wide molecular weight range (200 to over 10,000), their ethers (laureths, ceteths, ceteareths, steareths, and oleths), and fatty acid esters (laurates, dilaurates, stearates, distearates) are safe for use in cosmetics.”
PEG 20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate
* An emollient and surfactant
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
PEG 20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate is used in beauty products and cosmetics as both an emollient and surfactant. It is the polyethylene glycol ether of the mono and diesters of Methyl Glucose and Stearic Acid, and is minimally absorbed by skin because of its low molecular weight, according to research.
Despite the many fears regarding PEGs, they are seen as an ingredient in a large number of products because of their diverse properties. In a study published in the Toxicology journal in 2005, entitled “Safety assessment on polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and their derivatives as used in cosmetic products,” it was concluded that: “Taking into consideration all available information from related compounds, as well as the mode and mechanism of action, no safety concern with regard to these endpoints could be identified. Based on the available data it is therefore concluded that PEGs of a wide molecular weight range (200 to over 10,000), their ethers (laureths, ceteths, ceteareths, steareths, and oleths), and fatty acid esters (laurates, dilaurates, stearates, distearates) are safe for use in cosmetics.”
PEG 20
* An emollient and surfactant
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
PEG 20 is seen in a variety of forms in beauty products and cosmetics, primarily as emollients and surfactants. As a PEG with a lower molecular weight, it is minimally absorbed into the skin. Two forms of PEG 20, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate and Sorbitan Beeswax are among the most popular PEG 20 ingredients found in skin care products.
PEG 20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate is a water soluble derivative comprised of the polyethylene glycol ether of the mono anddiesters of methyl glucose and stearic acid; the EWG notes that it is a moderate hazard depending on usage. PEG 20 Sorbitan Beeswax was assessed in a study published by the International Journal of Toxicology in 2001 and found to be a non-irritant to rabbit skin up to 2% concentrations, although it is used in products at concentrations as high as 11%. “Careful consideration was made of the data on the cocarcinogenesis, but the high exposure levels, high frequency of exposure, and absence of a dose-response led to the conclusion that there was not a cocarcinogenesis risk with the use of these ingredients in cosmetic formulations. Accordingly, these ingredients were considered safe for use in cosmetic formulations under the present practices of use.”
PEG 150 Distearate
* An emulsifier and thickening agent
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
PEG 150 Distearate is used in beauty products and cosmetics as an emulsifier and thickening agent; it is most often seen as an ingredient in shampoo and other hair products. PEG 150 Distearate is the Polyethylene Glycol Diester of Stearic Acid (Source).
The 150 designates the molecular weight of this specific PEG. PEGs are controversial ingredients in cosmetics and beauty products, in part because of their ability to penetrate the skin and be absorbed into the body, or assist other chemicals and ingredients in absorption. According to research, lower molecular weight PEG ingredients were minimally absorbed and higher molecular weight PEGs (PEG-75 and greater) were not absorbed through intact skin; PEG 150 is a high weight PEG and is not easily absorbed by the skin.
PEG 150
* A surfactant
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
PEG 150 is used in beauty products and cosmetics as a surfactant and cleansing agent, and is sometimes seen as a thickening agent as well. PEG 150 is also seen in different compounds in beauty products, often as PEG 150 Jojoba, an ethoxylated version of fully hydrogenated jojoba wax, or PEG 150 Distearate, a polyethylene glycol diester of stearic acid (Wikipedia and MakingCosmetics.com).
The 150 designates the molecular weight of this specific PEG, or polyethylene glycol. PEGs are controversial ingredients in cosmetics and beauty products, in part because of their ability to penetrate the skin and be absorbed into the body, or assist other chemicals and ingredients in absorption. According to research, lower molecular weight PEG ingredients were minimally absorbed and higher molecular weight PEGs (PEG-75 and greater) were not absorbed through intact skin; PEG 150 is a high weight PEG and is not easily absorbed by the skin.
PEG 120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate
* A surfactant and emulsifier
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
PEG 120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate is the polyethylene glycol ether of the diester of natural Methylglucose and Oleic Acid. It is used in beauty products and cosmetics as a surfactant and emulsifier. It is used as a thickener in hair and skin care products. It is considered a non-irritant, and also has a specific property that allows it to reduce the irritation value of whole formulas (Source). The high molecular weight of this specific PEG makes it impenetratable to healthy skin; it is FDA and CIR approved for use, but not on broken skin.
PEG 12 Dimethicone
* A diverse silicone
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
PEG 12 Dimethicone is a PEG binded with Dimethicone, a silicone-based polymer used to give formulas a smooth feel, promote spreadability, and add lubrication. It acts as a surface tension depressant, hair conditioning agent, skin conditioning agent, wetting agent, emulsifier and foam builder in a wide variety of beauty products and cosmetics (Source). Because of PEG 12 Dimethicone’s low molecular weight, it is minimally absorbed by the skin.
Despite the many fears regarding PEGs, they are seen as an ingredient in a large number of products because of their diverse properties. In a study published in the Toxicology journal in 2005, entitled “Safety assessment on polyethylene glycols (PEGs) and their derivatives as used in cosmetic products,” it was concluded that: “Taking into consideration all available information from related compounds, as well as the mode and mechanism of action, no safety concern with regard to these endpoints could be identified. Based on the available data it is therefore concluded that PEGs of a wide molecular weight range (200 to over 10,000), their ethers (laureths. ceteths, ceteareths, steareths, and oleths), and fatty acid esters (laurates, dilaurates, stearates, distearates) are safe for use in cosmetics.”
PEG 100 Stearate
* An emollient and emulsifier
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: PEGs
Functions:
PEG-100 Stearate is made by combining natural oils (oftentimes palm or coconut) with Stearic Acid to form a water-soluble ester. It can also be a synthetic polymer made by combining Oxirane (Ethylene Oxide) and fatty acids (Source). PEG-100 Stearate is primarily used by the cosmetics and beauty care industry as an emollient, an emulsifier and a moisturizer, although PEG Stearates in general are also known to clean the skin and hair by helping water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed away, according to CosmeticsInfo.org.
Unlike typical PEGs, (whose identifying number corresponds to their molecular weight) the numerical value of each PEG Stearate corresponds to the average number of ethylene oxide monomers in the polyethylene chain (from 2 – 150).
Paullinia Cupana Seed Extract
* Caffeine
* Also known as Guarana
Functions:
Paullinia Cupana Seed Extract is derived from an Amazonian plant primarily used as an herbal supplement that supposedly treats a variety of ailments, ranging from diarrhea to migraines. It is also used as a weight loss treatment because of its caffeine levels, which are twice as high as those found in coffee beans (Wikipedia). It is thought to have antioxidant and antibacterial effects, and the high concentration of caffeine in Paullinia Cupana Seed Extract serves as a defensive toxin that cleanses the body from the inside out.
Pantothenic Acid
* Vitamin B5
* Please read TIA’s post about Sensitive Oily Skin? Try Vitamin B
Functions:
Pantothenic Acid is an essential nutrient is primarily utilized by the body for the natural synthesis of carbohydrates, proteins, and fats. It is used in cosmetics and beauty care products because of its potential wound-healing and acne treatment properties. Pantothenic acid is also referred to as an anti-stress vitamin, due to its essential role in the formation of various adrenal hormones, which allow the body to adapt to and respond effectively to various types of stress (Source).
Panthenyl Hydroxypropyl Steardimonium Chloride
* A hair conditioning agent
Functions:
Very little information is available regarding Panthenyl Hydroxypropyl Steardimonium Chloride, but according to the Cosmetics Database, it is a hair conditioning agent and is also used for its anti-static properties. No other research could be found on this ingredient.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database rated Panthenyl Hydroxypropyl Steardimonium Chloride as 100% for use.
Panthenol
* A VitaminB5 derivative
Functions:
Panthenol is the provitamin of B5 because and is used in cosmetics and beauty products primarily as a lubricant, emollient and moisturizer because of its ability to bind to the hair and penetrate the skin, providing both with lubrication and hydration (Wikipedia).
As an ingredient in shampoos and conditioners, Panthenol’s binding properties allow it to coat and seal the hair follicles, lubricating the shaft and making the hair appear shiny. As an ingredient in skin products, Panthenol has been seen to improve hydration, reduce itching and inflammation of the skin and accelerate and improve healing of epidermal wounds; it is also often used in sunburn treatment products. According to research, when Panthenol is applied topically, it penetrates into lower skin layers, is absorbed into skin cells and processed into Pantothenic Acid (commonly known as Vitamin B5). Because it is absorbed deeply into the skin, it adds essential moisture.
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7
* A regenerating peptide
* Previously known as Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3
* A key ingredient in Matrixyl 3000
* Please read TIA’s article on What Is It: Matrixyl
Functions:
Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7 is a synthetic peptide comprised of four amino acids that is used in beauty products and cosmetics to suppress the production of excess interleukins, the chemical messengers which trigger the body’s acute inflammatory response. This can lead to glycation damage, or the process by which glucose links with proteins and causes them to bind together, stiffening tissues. This negatively affects the skin’s support system, comprised of collagen, elastin and other proteins, and leads to wrinkles, sagging, and uneven skin tone (Source).
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4
* Molecules that link amino acids
* Also known as Matrixyl and Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3
* Please read TIA’s articles on What Is It: Pentapeptides and the Latest Botox in a Jar Potion and What Is It: Matrixyl
Functions:
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 was developed by the corporations Sederma SA and Proctor & Gamble and originally named Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, but later renamed to Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 to reflect a correction in the data on its molecular structure, according to research. It is also included in many commercial formulas under the trademark of Matrixyl.
Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 is a pentapeptide, synethsized chain protein created by linking five amino acid peptides. This chain creates a response in the dermis of the skin that stimulates collagen and elastin fibroblasts, developing fibronectin (FN) and glycosaminoglycans (GAG), according to research. Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 is a small molecule that penetrates the skin easily and is structurally similar to the precursor of collagen type I. It is thought that pentapeptides can communicate with a cell and program it to do specific things, including repair work.
Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer
* An emollient
Functions:
Little information is available regarding Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer. It is noted as an emollient and skin conditioning agent, used to act as a lubricant on the skin’s surface and give the skin a soft and smooth appearance, according to research. The Cosmetic Database defines Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer as a “palmitic acidester of a polymer of the hydroxypropyltrimonium derivative of Amylopectin (q.v.) crosslinked with glycerin.” Glycerin is widely used as a humectant and lubricant in beauty products and cosmetics.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The EWG rates Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer as 100% safe and no studies were found that noted any adverse reactions, side effects, or safety measures regarding the use of it in beauty products or cosmetics.
Recommended Products w/ Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer:
Dermalogica Soothing Shaving Cream with Daily Defense Block, Murad’s Oil Free SPF 15 Sunblock with Sheer Tint, Murad’s Waterproof Sunblock with SPF 30
Palmitic Acid
* A fatty acid
Functions:
Palmitic Acid is is one of the most common saturated fatty acids. It is found in both animals and plants, primarily from the oil of palm trees. It is most often seen as an ingredient in detergents, soaps and cleaning products, and as a surfactant, although it is used in beauty products and cosmetics for a variety of properties, including as a fragrance ingredient; opacifying agent; surfactant; cleansing agent; emulsifying agent; and emollient (CosmeticsInfo.org and Wikipedia). Palmitic Acid is approved for use up to 13% and is not considered a primary or cumulative irritant, nor sensitizer, although it does create foam and can be drying.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The EWG finds Palmitic Acid to be a low hazard ingredient, but still only gives it a 62% safety rating, primarily because of lack of data and studies available. It is FDA and CIR approved.
PABA
* A sunscreen ingredient that is linked to cancer
* Please read TIA’s article on Chemical VS Physical Sunscreens
* Also known as 4-Aminobenzoic Acid and Para-aminobenzoic Acid
Functions:
PABA was first used as a UV filter in sunscreen formulations in the 1970s, in part because of its ability to bind tightly to cells in the epidermis, keeping it from getting washed off in water or even rubbed off with a towel, according to research. It has since been strongly linked to cancer, an increase in free radicals, and DNA damage.
Widely associated with Vitamin B, PABA is a nutrient produced in the colon from E-coli that is essential to bacteria, but not to human health. However, PABA deficiency can lead to some dermatological effects in the human body, including scleroderma, eczema, skin infections, and patchy pigment loss in skin, according to Wikipedia.
