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Superoxide Dismutase
* An antioxidant
* Also known as SOD
Functions:
Superoxide Dismutase is an antioxidant naturally found in the body, and is a part of a class of “enzymes that catalyze the dismutation of superoxide into oxygen and hydrogen peroxide. It is also found in barley grass, broccoli, brussels sprouts, cabbage, wheatgrass, and most green plants. As such, they are an important antioxidant defense in nearly all cells exposed to oxygen,” like skin cells (Wikipedia). Superoxide Dismutase overpowers the damaging reactions of superoxide, and protect the cell from superoxide (the most common free radical in the body) toxicity; it has the fastest turnover number of any known enzyme. Superoxide Dismutase is used in cosmetics and personal care products as an anti-aging ingredient and antioxidant because of its ability to reduce free radical damage in the skin, therefore preventing wrinkles, fine lines, age spots, help with wound healing, soften scar tissue, protect against UV rays, and reduce other signs of aging.
Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer
* A film former
Functions:
Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer is a synthetic polymer used as a film former in cosmetics and personal care products that has opaque properties and is seen in a variety of formulas, including those for sunscreens and other lotions, according to CosmeticsCop.com. Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer has large molecules that do not penetrate the skin.
Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer is CIR approved with concentration limits.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer is listed as a moderate hazard ingredient by the Cosmetics Database. The EWG notes contamination concerns including methacrylic acid, a potential toxin and carcinogen; acrylic acid, a human respiratory toxicant, known toxin and potential carcinogen; and 2-ethylhexyl acrylate, a known immune syste, human lung and skin toxicant. It is, however, “Considered safe based on assumption of low absorption.”
Stearyl/PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Dimer Dilinoleate
* An emollient
Functions:
There is little information available on Stearyl/PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Dimer Dilinoleate. According to the Cosmetics Database, it is an emollient and skin conditioning agent. Various patents filed that include Stearyl/PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Dimer Dilinoleate list it as a liquid wax, but none provide comprehensive information on its use.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database lists no negative side effects regarding the use of Stearyl/PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Dimer Dilinoleate, although it does note numerous data gaps and a lack of information available regarding this ingredient. No other studies or sources were found to indicate any side effects of Stearyl/PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Dimer Dilinoleate, and further research yielded no information.
Stearyl Heptanoate
* An emollient
Functions:
Stearyl Heptanoate is the ester of stearyl alcohol and heptanoic acid. It is often derived from sperm whale oil or from vegetable sources, and is used as an emollient in cosmetics and personal care products. It is also found in most eye liner products as an emollient and stabilizer (Wikipedia).
Stearyl Heptanoate is CIR approved with concentration limits.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database finds Stearyl Heptanoate to be a low hazard ingredient, and it is “Classified as not expected to be potentially toxic or harmful.” According to a study published in the Journal of the American College of Toxicology, it can be used in concentrations up to 25% in lip balms and up to 5% in ointments. Stearyl Heptanoate can potentially cause mild skin irritation, but is not a sensitizer. Undiluted, this ingredient can produce eye irritation in rabbits, but at concentrations up to 1.5%, it caused no effects. It is also not considered to be comedogenic.
Stearyl Alcohol
* An emulsion stabilizer and conditioning agent
Functions:
Stearyl Alcohol is a naturaly fatty alcohol derived from stearic acid, coconut oil or vegetable fatty acids, and is used to soothe and soften as a conditioning agent and as an emulsifier. It is often found as a hair coating ingredient in shampoos and conditioners, and an emollient in creams and lotions for the skin (Sci-Toys.com and Wikipedia). It can also be used to thicken formulas, adding body and viscosity.
Stearyl Alcohol is FDA and CIR approved.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database finds Stearyl Alcohol to be a low hazard ingredient, despite cancer, irritation, and organ system toxicity concerns and strong evidence that it is a human irritant by the CIR. One or more animal studies show tumor formation at high doses. However, the high doses that caused tumor formation are much higher than those likely to be found in cosmetics and personal care products.
Steartrimonium Chloride
* An anti-static ingredient and preservative
* Also known as Quaternium 10
* Please see TIA’s post on What Is It: Preservatives and Parabens and Are They Safe
Functions:
Steartrimonium Chloride is a quaternary ammonium salt found in cosmetics and personal care products, most often in hair care products such as conditioners, dyes, and in some skin care products as a an anti-static agent (by naturally carrying a positive charge that attracts them to the slightly negatively charged skin and hair proteins), surfactant and preservative. It is a synthetic compound derived from the fatty acid, stearic acid (Cosmetics Unmasked by Dr. Steve Antczak). It also helps form emulsions “by reducing the surface tension of the substances to be emulsified and help to distribute or to suspend an insoluble solid in a liquid,” according to CosmeticsInfo.org. Johnson & Johnson describe Steartrimonium Chloride as a “stabilizer that ensures the proper dispersion of a product.”
Stearic Acid
* A fatty acid
* Also known as Octadecanoic Acid
Functions:
Stearic Acid is a fatty acid found primarily in animal derivatives, but in vegetable fats as well. It is used in a variety of cosmetics and personal care products, as a fragrance ingredient, surfactant and emulsifier. It is also used as the base for the manufacture of other fatty acid ingredients which are used as emulsifers, emollients and lubricants, according to CosmeticsInfo.org. It is also used as an ingredient in candles, plastics, dietary supplements, oil pastels, and for softening rubber; it is a frequent ingredient in soaps made from vegetable oil, and is used to harden the product (Wikipedia).
Stearic Acid is FDA and CIR approved.e
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Steareth 21
* An emulsifier
Functions:
Steareth 21 is a polyethylene glycol ether made from stearic acid. It is used as an emulsifier in cosmetics and personal care products, including makeup, lotions, personal cleanliness products and deodorants, as well as suntan, fragrance, skin, eye and hair care products. The Steareths are “prepared by reacting ethylene oxide with stearyl alcohol where the numerical value in the name corresponds to the average number of units of ethylene oxide. Therefore, Steareth 21 is prepared using an average of 21 units of ethylene oxide reacted with stearyl alcohol, and is relatively liquid compared to higher Steareth values, which become waxy solids (CosmeticsInfo.org and other research).
Steareth 21 is FDA and CIR approved.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine
* A hair conditioning agent
* Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: Silicones and Should We Avoid Them
Functions:
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine is a fatty mine salt, used as a hair care ingredient used as a conditioning and anti-static agent in shampoos and conditioners, and is also sometimes used for its luminescent, pearl-like properties. It serves in some cases as a mild detergent that can remove hair build-up (Happi.com). When seen as a surfactant, it is at concentrations much lower than typical shampoo levels (1% vs 12%) and is considered a mild alternative to other harsher cleansers, according to The Beauty Brains.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
According to the Cosmetics Database, Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine is a low hazard ingredient that is “Classified as not expected to be potentially toxic or harmful.” No other studies were found that reported negative side effects regarding use of this ingredient.
Stearamidoethyl Diethylamine
* An emulsifier
Functions:
Stearamidoethyl Diethylamine is an ingredient found in a variety of cosmetics and personal care products, primarily in shampoos and other hair care formulas, as an emulsifier, anti-static agent, and hair conditioner. Little additional information is available regarding this ingredient’s uses.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
According to the Cosmetics Database, Stearamidoethyl Diethylamine is a low hazard ingredient that is “Classified as not expected to be potentially toxic or harmful.” No negative side effects or warnings are listed.
However, in a study published in the Contact Deramtitis, called “Allergic contact dermatitis from stearamidoethyl diethylamine phosphate: a cosmetic emulsifier,” reported that four cases of contact dermatitis were found that were directly caused by Stearamidoethyl Diethylamine; three were from a dry skin lotion, and one from a deodorant. This ingredient was found to be the contact allergen after controlled testing of ingredient samples. It was noted that Stearamidoethyl Diethylamine can cause allergic contact dermatitis, other rashes, and dry, cracked skin.
Stearamide MEA Stearate
* A surfactant and foam booster
Functions:
Stearamide MEA Stearate is a waxy solid derived from fatty acids that is used as a surfactant, foam booster, anti-static agent and viscosity increasing agent, according to CosmeticsInfo.org. Stearamide MEA Stearate is primarily used to increase the thickness of formulas, and increasing and stabilize foaming capabilities. It is found in cosmetics and personal care products, especially as an anti-dandruff ingredient. It is also seen in the formulas for deodorants, shampoos, makeup, bath products, and hair and skin care products.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Stearalkonium Chloride
* An anti-static agent
Functions:
Stearalkonium Chloride is derived from stearic acid, a fatty acid found in plants and animals. It is used primarily in hair products (inculding as rinses, conditioners, setting lotions and bleaches) to serve as an anti-static agent, although it is also used in some formulas as a preservative or surfactant. According to CosmeticsInfo.com, Stearalkonium Chloride is a “positively charged salt that attracts and binds proteins, which are negatively charged.” It is found to increase luster and improve the condition of wet or dry hair, often serving to de-tangle the hair.
Stearalkonium Chloride was originally developed by the fabric industry as a fabric softener, and is often found in hair care products as a less-expensive alternative to protein or herbal ingredients (HealthGoods.com).
Stearalkonium Chloride is CIR approved with concentration limits, and in the European Union, it is only approved for formulas at concentrations below 3% in rinse-off products, and a .1% maximum for other products.
Spironolactone
* An acne treatment
* Please read Marta’s post on Jan Marini Relaunches Age Intervention Hair with a thorough explanation of Spironolactone
* Also known as Aldactone, Novo-Spiroton, Aldactazide, Spiractin, Spirotone, Verospiron or Berlactone
Functions:
Spironolactone is classified as an antiandrogen and as a diuretic, and is used to prevent or inhibit the biologic effects of androgens, or male sex hormones. Taken orally, Spironolactone is only recommended for use by women, because it affects the sexual hormones responsible for gender development. It is found to be effective in treating acne caused by hormonal fluctuations, but not all acne conditions; it can also reduce the amount of unwanted facial hair in women as well. Spironolactone works by blocking androgen receptors in the body, blocking cells from absorbing this hormone. These hormones can be responsible for acne flareups, so blocking its development can prevent or treat hormone-related acne (Acne.About.com and Wikipedia).
Spikenard
* A fragrance
Functions:
Spikenard is a natural oil derived from a flowering plant that grows primarily in Nepal, China, and India. It was a famous biblical oil, and has been traditionally used to treat a variety of ailments, including skin ailments and menstrual problems, as well as depression and insomnia. In cosmetics and personal care products, it is primarily used for its anti-bacterial, anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory, and deodorant properties. It is thought to naturally heal dermatitis, psoriasis, insect bites and wounds; it possesses a woodsy, earthy smell that is used in a variety of formulas and is thought to be calming and natural (OrganicFacts.net and SpeicalChem4Cosmetics.com).
According to Wikipedia and CosmeticsCop.com, its anti-bacterial properties are its secondary use after as a fragrance additive, and it can be used as a treatment for not only on skin problems, but can help to terminate bacterial growth inside the body as well.
Soyethyl Morpholinium Ethosulfate
* An emulsifier
Functions:
Little information is available regarding Soyethyl Morpholinium Ethosulfate, although it is considered a natural or organic ingredient used in a variety of natural products, specifically in deodorants. It is classified as a emulsifier and anti-static agent (Cosmetics Database). Soyethyl Morpholinium Ethosulfate is also used as a masking ingredient that has the ability to neutralize odors.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database finds Soyethyl Morpholinium Ethosulfate to be a low hazard ingredient and lists mild concerns regarding organ toxicity due to the Environmental Canada Domestic Substance List classifying Soyethyl Morpholinium Ethosulfate as “expected to be toxic or harmful.” No other studies were found that listed any negative side effects for this ingredient.
Sorbitol
* A humectant
* Also known as D-sorbitol, D-glucitol, Glucitol, Sorbol and Sorbit
Functions:
According to Wisegeek.com and Wikipedia, Sorbitol is a sugar alcohol derived from fruits, corn and seaweed, although most products currently use corn-derived Sorbitol. It is used primarily as a humectant in cosmetics and personal care products, although it is also a fragrance ingredient and flavoring agent (thanks to its sweet flavor). As a humectant, Sorbitol prevents moisture loss by pulling water by osmosis from the air, hydrating skin; however, when used in extremely dry conditions, Sorbitol can instead whisk moisture out of the skin and leave it dry or damaged (DermaDoctor.com). Sorbitol is also frequently used in gel products, because of its ability to retain moisture in otherwise drying, transparent gels.
Sorbitol is used as an ingredient in soaps (especially glycerin soaps, because sorbitol is sometimes considered a less expensive alternative to glycerin), toothpastes, mouthwashes, aftershave lotions, baby shampoos and hair care products, according to CosmeticsInfo.org.
Sorbitan Tristearate
* A surfactant
* Also known as Span 65
Functions:
Sorbitan Tristearate is a nonionic surfactant used for a variety of purposes, including as a dispersing agent, emulsifier, and stabilizer, in food and in aerosol sprays, according to Wikipedia. It is produced by “reacting the polyol, sorbitol, with a fatty acids (stearic acid, lauric acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid),” all of which are naturally occurring. Sorbitan Tristearate is often derived from plants, and when this is the case, it is approved for cosmetics and personal care products in the European Union as well (CosmeticsInfo.org).
Sorbitan Tristearate is CIR approved with concentration limits.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Sorbitan Tristearate is considered a low hazard ingredient by the Cosmetics Database, which does note data gaps in research. The Environmental Canada Domestic Substance List classifies it as “not expected to be potentially toxic or harmful,” and no other studies were found that listed negative side effects regarding the use of this ingredient. However, the Sorbitan esters as a group are found to be generally mild skin irritants but nonsensitizers.
Sorbitan Sesquioleate
* An emollient
Functions:
Sorbitan Sesquioleate is used in a variety of products including skin care products, skin cleansing products, moisturizers, eye makeup and other makeup, primarily as an emollient. It is added to formulas as a skin soother and moisturizer and is derived from sorbitol, a humectant. Little information is available regarding Sorbitan Sesquioleate’s exact role or differentiating characteristics from other sorbitan esters (RealSelf.com and Cosmetics Database).
Sorbitan Sesquioleate is CIR approved with concentration limits.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Sorbitan Sesquioleate is considered a low hazard ingredient by the Cosmetics Database, which only notes mild concerns regarding organ system and toxicity, due to animal studies that showed organ effects and skin moderation at moderate doses.
Sorbitan Oleate
* An emulsifier
Functions:
Sorbitan Oleate is the monoester of oleic acid (a source of omegas) and hexitol anhydrides derived from sorbitol (often used as a humectant). It is used in a variety of formulas used in the cosmetic industry, including skin care products, skin cleansing products, moisturizers, eye makeup and other makeup, according to RealSelf.com. Although also seen as a fragrance ingredient and surfactant, it is primarily used as an emulsifier, and is especially suited formulations containing vegetable oils (LotionCrafter.com). It is considered a good co-emulsifier for lotions and other emulsions.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database considers Sorbitan Oleate a low hazard ingredient, although it does note it as a potential carcinogen because studies have shown cell mutation. The EWG has lesser concerns regarding organ system toxicity and irritation, due to animal studies that showed liver effects at high doses and skin irritation at moderate doses. All Sorbitan esters, including Sorbitan Oleate, are considered generally mild skin irritants but nonsensitizers (RealSelf.com).
Sorbic Acid
* A preservative
* Please read TIA’s posts on Why Products Need Preservatives and What Is It: Preservatives and Parabens and Are They Safe
Functions:
Sorbic Acid is derived from the berries of the mountain ash tree, and has traditionally been used as a preservative for food and wine due to its ability to prevent spoilage caused by yeasts, fungis and molds, as well as some other bacterias (Wikipedia). Although it is considered an effective preservative, “Several microorganisms can metabolize sorbic acid particularly when it is present in small concentrations. For this reason, it is not a suitable preservative in foods with high microbial counts,” according to Dr. Murli Dharmadhikari at Iowa State.
This unsaturated fatty acid is used primarily in the formulation of facial and eye makeup, skin care and hair products, according to CosmeticsInfo.org and Cosmetics and Toiletries.
Sodium Xylene Sulfonate
* A surfactant
Functions:
Sodium Xylene Sulfonate is a surfactant found in personal care products, primarily in shampoos, because of its ability to serve as a claritant or wetting agent that helps a formula spread more easily and ensure efficient cleansing, according to Johnson& Johnson. It is classified as a hydrotrope, or an organic compound that increases the ability of water to dissolve other molecules. Because of Sodium Xylene Sulfonate’s dissolving abilities, it is often added to shampoos as a thickening agent that helps suspend other ingredients, clearing out the cloudy look of a formula (Sci-Toys.com).
Sodium Xylene Sulfonate is FDA approved, and is seen in shampoos and other products in concentrations up to 10%.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Sodium Xylene Sulfonate is considered a low hazard ingredient by the Cosmetics Database, which has mild concerns regarding organ system toxicity and skin and eye irritation. One or more animal studies showed liver effects and skin irritation at high doses that are unlike those found in shampoos or other cleansing products.
Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate
* A form of Vitamin E
Functions:
Little information is available regarding Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate, and it is not reviewed by the CIR or the Cosmetics Database. The only studies found regarding this ingredient and its use were provided by companies manufacturing moisturizers that included Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate. According to an article published in Free Radical Biology and Medicine by Australian and Swiss scientists, this ingredient is used for “a number of cellular functions, such as oxidant-protected intracellular transport, enzymatic regulation of its concentration, and cell signaling.” Sodium Tocopheryl Phosphate most likely serves as a moisturizing ingredient, thanks to its Vitamin E properties, and also has the potential to prevent aging or assist in the rebuilding of collagen and elastin, due to its cell signaling and transportation abilities. It is known to display solubility in water at high pH levels and with organic solvents.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Sodium Silicate
* A buffering agent and pH adjuster
* Also known as Water Glass
Functions:
Sodium Silicate is primarily used as in the manufacture of soaps and detergents, because of its ability to provide a constant pH value; it is also “used to prevent the corrosion (rust) of metallic materials used in cosmetic packaging,” according to CosmeticsInfo.org. It is found in a variety of products, including skin care and hair coloring formulas, as well as in eye make up and oral hygeine products.
Industrially, Sodium Silicate is also used as an ingredient in the manufacture of cements, passive fire protection, refractories, textile and lumber processing, and automobiles. According to an article in the Wall Street Journal, it is “the designated agent of death for cars surrendered under the federal cash-for-clunkers program,” because of its ability to permanently disable car engines. It was also historically used as used as an egg preservation agent in the late 1900s, preventing the penetration of bacteria that would spoil the eggs (Wikipedia).
Sodium Riboflavin Phosphate
* A derivative of Vitamin B2
* Please read TIA’s post on Sensitive, Oily Skin? Try Vitamin B
Functions:
There is little information regarding Sodium Riboflavin Phosphate, although its riboflavin component indicates that it is a derivative of Vitamin E, a known antioxidant. According to medical dictionaries, this ingredient “combines with phosphate to form enzyme cofactors flavin mononucleotide–FMN and flavin adenine dinucleotide–FAD, both involved in oxidation-reduction reactions.” In other words, Sodium Riboflavin Phosphate, which can be developed from the water-soluble flavin of the vitamin B complex, (found in milk, organ meats, eggs, leafy green vegetables, whole grains and enriched cereals and breads, and various algae) can reduce oxidation in the skin, preventing drying or wrinkles. It is most often considered a skin conditioning agent when used in cosmetics and personal care products, and is also seen as a gentle acne treatment.
Sodium Riboflavin Phosphate is FDA approved.
Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate
* A film former
Functions:
Little information is available regarding Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate, although it is seen in a wide variety of personal care products, cosmetics and hair care products, in part due to its multiple properties as a synthetic polymer based on polystyrene, a commercially manufactured form of petroleum (Wikipedia). It is used as a film former, emulsion stabilizer, surfactant and viscosity increasing agent, and also has microbicide properties when applied topically. As a film former, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate may help to mask wrinkles when included in formulas.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
According to the Cosmetics Database, Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate is a low hazard ingredient with no negative side effects, although data gaps are noted. It is classified as not expected to be potentially toxic or harmful, although aspiration is listed multiple as a potential problem that can cause internal reactions. This is only expected in occupational situations, not when applied topically or included as an ingredient in cosmetics or personal care products.
Sodium Polyacrylate
* A thickener
* Also known as acrylic sodium salt polymer, or ASAP
Functions:
Sodium Polyacrylate is a synthetic polymer used in cosmetics and personal care products in part because of its ability to absorb as much as 200 to 300 times its mass in water, according to Wikipedia. It is seen as a white powder when dry, but turns into a gel-like substance when wet, and is primarily used as a thickening agent. Sodium Polyacrylate is also used in a variety of formulas because of its other properties, including as an absorbing agent, emulsion stabilizer, film former, emollient, and viscosity increasing agent. Sodium Polyacrylate is also used as a sequestering agent in cleansers and detergents because of its ability to bind to hard water elements like calcium and magnesium, allowing the surfactants to work more effectively (plastics.inwiki.org and Cosmetics Database).
Sodium Phosphate Dibasic
* A buffering agent
* Also known as Disodium Phosphate
Functions:
Sodium Phosphate Dibasic is used in cosmetics and personal care products primarily as a buffering agent, although it is also seen as a corrosion inhibitor, fragrance ingredient, and pH adjuster. It is also used in some laxatives, especially those used to cleanse the bowel before diagnostic procedures such as colonoscopies, according to CosmeticsInfo.org. A patent filed by Pond’s also lists Sodium Phosphate Dibasic as a buffering agent, sometimes functioning as a weak buffer and sometimes as a strong buffer.
Sodium Phosphate Dibasic is FDA approved, and the CIR has deferred its approval to the FDA’s classification.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database has found Sodium Phosphate Dibasic to be a low hazard ingredient, and only notes minimal concerns regarding neurotoxicity and organ system toxicity, as well as irritation because animal studies showed broad systemic effects and skin irritation at moderate doses (it does note that low dose studies may be unavailable for this ingredient).
Sodium PCA
* A humectant
Functions:
Sodium PCA is a naturally occurring humectant found in human skin that is a derivative of amino acids. Sodium PCA has high water absorbing properties, and is also considered to be hygroscopic, with the ability to absorb moisture from the air (VitaminStuff.com and other research). It can also bind moisture to cells, and hold several times its weight in water. It delivers moisture to the hair and skin, and is often seen as an emollient or humectant in hair conditioners and moisturizers; it is also seen as an ingredient in shampoos, hair sprays, permanent waves, skin fresheners and other hair and skin care products, according to RealSelf.com.
Sodium PCA is CIR approved with concentration limits to 4%.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate
* A surfactant
Functions:
Little information is available regarding Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate, but the Cosmetics Database notes that it is the sodium salt of the coconut fatty acid amide of N-methyltaurine. It is labeled as a surfactant and foaming agent, and CosmeticsCop.com also finds it to be a mild surfactant.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database only notes data gaps and no negative side effects or warnings regarding the use of Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate in cosmetics or personal care products. No definitive studies or warnings could be found elsewhere, although Health-Report.co.uk and another site both listed it as a synthetic toxin, with no explanation as to its toxic properties.
Recommended Products w/ Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate:
Living Proof Anti-Frizz Treatment, Dermalogica Soothing Shaving Cream with Daily Defense Block, Gessato Men’s Skincare Range
Sodium Methyl 2-Sulfolaurate/Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate
* A surfactant
Functions:
Little information is available regarding Sodium Methyl 2-Sulfolaurate/Disodium 2-Sulfolaurate. A green blog posting an article entitled What’s In Your Soap noted that this ingredient is derived from coconut oil and is a mild, non-drying cleanser. The Cosmetics Database labels it as a surfactant and foaming agent.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database only notes data gaps regarding this ingredient, and it is not approved by the CIR or any other organization for use in cosmetics. No information could be found regarding hazardous side effects.
Sodium Metabisulfite
* A preservative
* Please see TIA’s post on What Is It: Preservatives and Parabens and Are They Safe and Why Products Need Preservatives
Functions:
Sodium Metabisulfite is an organic salt used as a disinfectant and preservative agent in cosmetics and personal care products, according to Wikipedia. It is also considered a reducing agent that donates hydrogen molecules to other substances in cosmetics and personal care products. This ingredient can sometimes function as an antioxidant, preventing or slowing deterioration of formulas caused by chemical reactions with oxygen. Sodium Metabisulfite is seen as an ingredient primarily in hair care products, such as formulas for permanent waves, hair bleaches, hair dyes, colors and tints, and also in some bath and skin care products (CosmeticsInfo.org).
Sodium Metabisulfite is FDA approved and has received its Generally Recognized as Safe (GRAS) rating. It is also CIR approved for use in cosmetics.
Sodium Magnesium Silicate
* A binder and bulking agent
Functions:
Sodium Magnesium Silicate is a synthetic silicate clay, comprised mainly of magnesium and sodium silicate. It is used as a binder and bulking agent in cosmetics and personal care products, in part because of its ability to absorb water (CosmeticsInfo.org). It is also used in the creation of concrete. According to a patent filed for a skin-whitening cream, Sodium Magnesium Silicate is effective in slowing the decomposition of formulas, and can “prevent premature darkening of the cosmetic composition and to prevent premature development of a foul odor.” The research done for this patent found that skin-whitening agents susceptible to oxidation have longer shelf lives if those cosmetic compositions also contain Sodium Magnesium Silicate, so it may be considered a preservative in some cases as well.
Sodium Magnesium Silicate is CIR approved, with a maximum concentration limit.
Functions:
Sodium Levulinate
* A preservative
* Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: Preservatives and Parabens and Are They Safe
Functions:
Sodium Levulinate is the sodium salt of levulinic acid, and is used as a preservative and skin conditioning agent in cosmetics and personal care products. Little information is available regarding its use in these formulas, although more research is available regarding Sodium Levulinate as a preservative in food, especially fresh meats. In a study published in the Journal of Muscle Foods, Sodium Levulinate was found to inhibit the growth of aerobic microorganisms during storage compared to controls, while not affecting color or pH levels. It is likely to perform similarly in cosmetics and other skin care formulas, protecting products from the growth of microoragnisms without significantly altering the integrity of the other ingredients.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate
* A surfactant
* Also seen as Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate
Functions:
Very little information is available regarding Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate, although according to TriNature.com, it is a foaming agent that is derived from glucoside from coconut and corn. It is also used as a natural replacement for the ingredient known as sodium laureth sulfate, or SLES. It is seen in cosmetics and personal care products as a surfactant, most often in cleansing formulas such as mild facial washes and special sulfate-free shampoos (FaceProducts-Online).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
No studies were found that reported any negative side effects regarding the use of Sodium Lauryl Glucose Carboxylate, although it is not reviewed by the Cosmetics Database or EWG. It is considered a milder form or alternative to sodium laureth sulfate and sodium lauryl sulfate. (Sodium lauryl sulfate has been linked to cases of contact dermatitis and other irritation, in part because of its ability change the structure of proteins, while sodium laureth sulfate does not cause this reaction but can still be irritating.)
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate
* A foaming agent and surfactant
Functions:
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate is the salt of Lauroyl Sarcosine (produced by the breakdown of creatine or caffeine), a modified fatty acid. It is often seen in shampoos, bath, cleansing and shaving products as a foaming agent, surfactant, and hair conditioning agent, according to CosmeticsInfo.org and Wikipedia. Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate has the ability to enhance the appearance and feel of hair by improving body, suppleness and sheen, especially in hair that is chemically damaged. This ingredient also serves to clean skin and hair by mixing with oil and dirt and enabling them to be rinsed away. As a modified fatty acid, it is thought to be more soluble, and have increased crystallinity and acidity compared to its original fatty acid composition.
Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate is FDA approved as an indirect food additive, and CIR approved when used in rinse-off products, or in leave-on products at concentrations of 5% or less.
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate
* An emulsifier and surfactant
Functions:
Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is a salt derived from the lauric acid ester of lactyl lactate (or milk and coconut oil), and is traditionally used as a food emulsifier, although it is seen in cosmetics and personal care products because of its ability, as a lactylate, to penetrate skin easily, providing “residual moisturization, extended fragrance release, and enhanced delivery of actives,” according to IngredientsToDieFor.com and other manufacturers. (Lauric acid is known for its moisturizing abilities, and is also recognized as an acne-fighter thanks to its anti-microbial properties.) Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate is used as an ingredient in shampoos, face and body washes, and other foaming cleansers.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Sodium Lactate
* A preservative and buffering agent, sometimes an exfoliant
Functions:
Sodium Lactate is the natural salt derived from a natural fermentation product, lactic acid. It is naturally produced in the skin, according to an article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, and also occurs naturally in all animal and human muscle tissue, according to Sodium-Lactate.com. It is often found in meat and poultry products as a preservative, thanks to its antimicrobial action and ability to inhibit bacteria development, and is also seen in cosmetics and beauty products, especially shampoos and liquid cleansers, as a preservative, buffering agent, pH controlling agent, or exfoliant (Wikipedia).
Sodium Lactate is CIR approved when used under certain concentrations, and is considered “Safe when formulated to avoid increasing sun sensitivity or when directions for use include daily use of sun protection,” because of its exfoliating properties (Cosmetics Database). It is also FDA approved.
Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate
* A preservative
Functions:
Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate is a preservative derived from the naturally occurring amino acid, glycine. It is often used in cosmetics and skin care products as a natural alternative to parabens, although the process used to create Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate requires synthetic actions. It is considered an effective preservative because of its ability to cover a broad spectrum of microbes and protect formulas against bacteria, yeast and mold. Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate is used at extremely low concentrations between .1% to 1% and is seen in skin care products, as well as in hair conditioners (Treasured Locks and TruthInSkincare.com).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database has found Sodium Hydroxymethylglycinate to be a low hazard ingredient, and non-irritating, nonsensitizing, non-toxic by skin absorption and non-mutagenic. However, even at concentrations less than 1%, this ingredient has been shown to cause skin and eye irritation and may be more irritating than the parabens it is replacing.
Sodium Hydroxide
* A pH adjuster
* Considered a strong irritant
* Also known as lye, caustic soda, soda lye or sodium hydrate
Functions:
Sodium Hydroxide is an inorganic compound used to control the pH levels or serve as a buffering agent in cosmetics and personal care products. It was historically used in the formulation of soaps, but is currently seen in a variety of formulas, including bath products, cleansing products, fragrances, foot powders, hair dyes and colors, makeup, nail products, personal cleanliness products, shampoos, shaving products, depilatories, skin care products, and suntan products, as well as chemical hair straighteners and hair wave sets (CosmeticsInfo.org and CosmeticsCop.com). It is also a popular ingredient in industrial solvents as a chemical base for soaps, oven cleaners, detergents and drain cleaners because of its ability to dissolve grease, oils, fats and protein based deposits, according to Wikipedia. Less frequently, Sodium Hydroxide is seen as an ingredient in toothpastes.
Sodium Hyaluronate
* A moisture retaining ingredient and humectant
* Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Hyaluronate
Functions:
Sodium Hyaluronate is the salt form of Hyaluronic Acid, a water-binding ingredient that has the ability to fill the spaces between the connective fibers known as collagen and elastin. Hyaluronic Acid is often injected into the skin (on the face most often), and hydrates and separates the skin, allowing it to retain water and create a plumping effect. Sodium Hyaluronate has been used for moisturization and wound healing since its discover in the 1930s. According to DermaDoctor.com, it is comprised of small molecules that penetrate the skin easily, and can hold up to 1000 their own weight in water. Because the skin naturally loses its water composition as it ages (going from 10% – 20% water to less than 10%), Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Hyaluronate can replace some of the water lost in the dermis, and potentially fight wrinkles and other signs of aging.
Sodium Hexametaphosphate
* A versatile ingredient, often used as a preservative alternative
Functions:
According to CosmeticsInfo.org, Sodium Hexametaphosphate is a inactivate metallic ion used to prevent the deterioration of cosmetics and personal care products, prohibiting the corrosion (rust) of metallic materials used in packaging. It is also used as a chelator, detergent, water softener and emulsifier, and is most often found in foundations and mascara, but also in bath products, and moisturizing and skin care products. Sodium Hexametaphosphate is also an ingredient in many tooth whitening formulas (Wikipedia).
Sodium Hexametaphosphate is CIR approved with concentration limits and when formulated to avoid skin irritation, and is also FDA approved as GRAS, or Generally Recognized as Safe.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Sodium Glycolate
* An exfoliant
* Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: Glycolic Acid and Other AHAs
Functions:
Sodium Glycolate is the salt of Glycolic Acid, and is used in cosmetics and personal care products primarily as an exfoliant or buffering agent, but also seen as pH adjusters and skin-conditioning agents. It is considered an AHA, or an alpha hydroxy acid, a type of ingredient used to diminish the lines on the skin by acting as a humectant, or absorbing “moisture in air and by exfoliating action to break the bonds between dead skin cells” (research).
Sodium Glycolate is sometimes considered a milder alternative to Glycolic Acid, a controversial ingredient. Sodium Glycolate is CIR approved for use in concentrations below 10% and when used in conjunction with a sunscreen product to protect the skin from increased UV radiation.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate
* A surfactant
* Also known as Sodium Lauryl Phenyl Sulfonate
Functions:
Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate is comprised of substituted aromatic compounds and used as a surfactant in a variety of cosmetics and personal care products, primarily cleansing products such as bath soaps and shampoos. It is considered a linear alkylbenzene sulfonate (LAS), or specific classification of surfactant that is known to be especially soluble and effective at low concentrations. It is used because of its ability to help water to mix with oil and dirt so that they can be rinsed away (CosmeticsInfo.org).
Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate is CIR approved with a maximum concentration limit. It is FDA approved as well, but research shows that it is only allowed to be used to assist in the peeling of fruits and vegetables.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate
* A surfactant
Functions:
Little information is available regarding Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate. It is, however, known to be a complex mixture of phosphate esters of dihydroxycetyl alcohol that is used as a surfactant in a variety of cosmetics and personal care products.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
According to the Cosmetics Database, Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate is a low hazard ingredient that is classified as a primary skin irritant and has produced skin irritation at moderate doses. A study published in Contact Dermatitis in 2001 identified Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate as a contact allergen when an herbal moisturizing cream containing this ingredient caused severe contact dermatitis. It was determined that hexadecane-1,2-diol and hexadecane-1,2-diol, 2-isopropyl ether were the allergenic compounds in Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate.
Recommended Products w/ Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate:
Sodium Deoxycholate
* An ionic detergent used in mesotherapy
Functions:
Sodium Deoxycholate is the the sodium salt of deoxycholic acid, an ingredient frequently used in mesotherapy injections to break up fat cells, potentially treating cellulite. Mesotherapy is considered a non-invasive alternative to cosmetic surgery, in which the deoxycholic acid “target[s] adipose fat cells, apparently by inducing lipolysis, rupture and cell death among adipocytes,” according to Wikipedia. The procedure is considered controversial, and is not approved as an official cosmetic surgery, although it has been used for years to treat other conditions such as tendonitis, tendon calcification, dental procedures, cancer, cervicobrachialgia, arthritis, lymphedema, and venous stasis.
According to Thermo Scientific, producers of Pierce Protein Research Products and a form of Sodium Deoxycholate, this ingredient is “water soluble ionic detergent/bile salt commonly used in applications ranging from cell lysis (RIPA Buffer), liposome preparation, isolation of membrane proteins and lipids, preventing nonspecific binding in affinity chromatography and a cell culture media supplement” and is used as a detergent agent.
Sodium Dehydroacetate
* A preservative
* Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: Preservatives and Parabens and Are They Safe
Functions:
Sodium Dehydroacetate is a preservative used in cosmetics and personal care products because of its antimicrobial properties. It appears in a variety of products, including bath, skin care, suntan, sunscreen, fragrance, shaving, hair and nail care products, and eye and facial makeup, because of its ability to kill microorganisms and “prevent their growth and reproduction, thus protecting cosmetics and personal care products from spoilage,” according to CosmeticsInfo.org. Sodium Dehydroacetate is considered to be an effective antimicrobial and preservative even at very low concentrations, as low as .6%, prohibiting the growth of bacterial and fungal microbes, although they do not necessarily kill already developed microbes.
Sodium Dehydroacetate is CIR approved, as well as FDA approved, although the FDA only allows this ingredient to be used as a preservative for cut or peeled squash.
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
* A surfactant
Functions:
Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate is a sodium salt ester, or a fatty acid derived from coconut oil. It is used in cosmetics and personal care products as a surfactant and is often seen in hair care products like shampoos because of its ability to help water to mix with oil and dirt, allowing them to be more easily rinsed away, according to CosmeticsInfo.org. Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate is also seen as an ingredient in a variety of soaps and cleansing products. As a surfactant, it creates a wet feeling, it solubilizes oils and reduces surface tension, and can aid in foaming as well.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Sodium Cocoate
* A fatty acid
Functions:
Sodium Cocoate is the generic name commonly used for the mixture of fatty acid derived from coconut oil, according to Wikipedia. It is produced by combining coconut oil with a sodium hydroxide base, and is often combined with Sodium Tallowate to create soap, other cleansers and surfactants.
Fatty acids help maintain resilience and lubrication of cells, and “combine with protein and cholesterol to form living membranes that hold body cells together.” They are known to promote cell membrane function and healthy skin, and coconut oil is often used as a skin moisturizer and softener (chromatography-online.org).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database notes data gaps in the research available regarding Sodium Cocoate, but finds it to be a safe ingredient. Canadian studies classify it as “not expected to be potentially toxic or harmful,” and no other studies were found that listed negative side effects. Coconut oil is considered a safe ingredient as well (Cosmetics Database).
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate
* A surfactant
Functions:
Sodium Cocoamphoacetate is a coconut oil-derived surfactant, foam booster and conditioning agent used in a variety of cosmetics and personal care products, particularly in face cleansers, scrubs and shaving creams, due to its gentleness and ability to add “slip” to the formula, making the product glide smoothly on skin (Lush.co.uk). According to CosmeticsInfo.org, it assists in cleaning by allowing water to mix with oil and dirt so that these substances can be rinsed away. It can also increase foaming capacity or stabilize foams, and enhance the appearance of hair by increasing hair body, suppleness, or sheen of hair that has been damaged physically or by chemical treatment. Sodium Cocoamphoacetate is often used in makeup removers and products designed for use on people with sensitive skin, children and babies because of its mild and non-irritating properties.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Sodium Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate
* A surfactant
Functions:
There is very little information available regarding Sodium Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate, although the Cosmetics Database categorizes it as a surfactant, hair-conditioning agent and foam booster. According to MenEssentials.com, there is also speculation that it is a preservative, or may enhance the cleansing power of a formula or provide a moisturizing effect, again corroborating the Cosmetics Database’s assessment. The definition provided is: “Sodium Cocamidopropyl PG-Dimonium Chloride Phosphate is the quaternary ammonium salt that conforms generally to the formula: where RCO- represents the coconut acid moiety.” Coconut Acid is generally thought to be used as a cleanser, foaming agent, or stabilizer at concentrations up to 50%, according to the International Journal of Toxicology and its “Final Report on the Safety Assessment of Coconut Oil, Coconut Acid, Hydrogenated Coconut Acid, and Hydrogenated Coconut Oil.”
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate
* An anti-inflammatory and conditioning ingredient
Functions:
Sodium Chondroitin Sulfate is a derivative of a natural mucopolysaccharide, or a component “found in connective tissue, skin, bone and cartilage together with proteins from the intercellular cells where collagen and elastin are embedded” (SkinCareInnovation.com). It is used as a skin conditioning agent (and sometimes seen in hair products as well) because of its ability to moisturize, heal, and soothe skin with its anti-inflammatory properties and ability to reinforce skin’s intercellular matrix, according to CosmeticsCop.com.
Sodium Chloride
* Table salt
Functions:
Sodium Chloride is more commonly known as table salt, and is used as a preservative in a number of food products, as well as in foods as a flavor additive. In cosmetics and beauty products, it is used as an oral care agent, flavoring agent, viscosity increasing agent, and is also seen as a thickener in some cases. It is also used as a binding agent and occasionally as an abrasive in scrub products, and can preserve formulas as it does in food packaging (CosmeticsInfo.org and CosmeticsCop.com). It is found as an ingredient in oral hygiene products (because of its ability to polish teeth, reduce oral odor), shampoos, fragrance, skin, hair, nail, cleansing, suntan, makeup and bath products. It can sometimes be drying or stripping, however, especially when found in hair products, including shampoos, and is known to reduce moisture in skin and hair.
Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan
* Binding agent
Functions:
Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan is a binding agent and viscosity increasing agent used in cosmetics and personal care products because of its additional properties that allow it to soothe irritated skin, support the skin’s own antioxidant activity, protect the skin from environmental damage, and help the skin to retain moisture (Skin-One.com). It is also known to be a wound-healer.
According to studies done in Florence, Italy and published in the Department of Pharmacology journal, Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan is also being used in opthalmic surgeries. During studies of this ingredient on corneal cells, it was found that Sodium Carboxymethyl Betaglucan can “protect cells from oxidative stress-dependent cell death … promoting cell adhesion and resistance to oxidative stress.” This may translate to the same effects in skin cells.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Sodium C12-13 Pareth Sulfate
* A surfactant
Functions:
There is little information available regarding Sodium C12-13 Pareth Sulfate, but according to Cosmetics Unmasked, a book by Dr. Steve Antczak from the United Kingdom, it is a synthetic compound derived from petroleum and ethylene oxide that is used as a surfactant in a variety of cosmetics and skin care products. It is also found in contact lens solutions. It is also used as an emulsifier.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Sodium C12-13 Pareth Sulfate is considered 100% safe by the Cosmetics Database, although the organization does note data gaps in its research. No studies were found that reported negative side effects of this ingredient. Hoewver, Ethylene Oxide is considered highly toxic and was even used as a component of nerve gas in WWII, but it is unclear if it should warrant any concern when used in this ingredient.
Sodium Benzoate
* A preservative
* Please read TIA’s posts on What Is It: Sodium Benzoate and What Is It: Preservatives and Parabens and Are They Safe
* Also known as E211
Functions:
Sodium Benzoate is a salt of Benzoic Acid, found naturally in cranberries, prunes, plums, cinnamon, ripe cloves, and apples and used as a preservative in cosmetics and personal care product formulas as a fragrance ingredient, masking ingredient, anti-corrosive agent, and most frequently, as a preservative. As a preservative, it prevents bacteria and fungi from developing in products and formulas and changing their compositions (Wikipedia). When combined with caffeine in Caffeine Sodium Benzoate, it can have a sunscreen effect, and provide UVB protection with antioxidant activity.
Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate
* An emulsifier
Functions:
Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate is an ingredient used and manufactured most often by the herbal ingredient community because it is vegetable derived. It was originally used as a food emulsifier, but is now seen in cosmetics and personal care products because of its ability to serve as an emulsifier, humectant and conditioner in hair and skin care formulas. It is seen in skin creams, lotions, facial cleansers, and bath products such as bath butters and scrubs, according to TheHerbarie.com, one of its herbal manufacturers. It is also used as a gellant in antiperspirants and deodorants that also contain drying silicones or alcohol, as well as bar soaps that are drying, because it adds moisture and is not considered irritating.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database finds Sodium Behenoyl Lactylate to be a 100% safe ingredient, and no studies were found that reported negative side effects or adverse warnings regarding this ingredient.
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate
* A Vitamin C derivative
* Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: Vitamin C Derivatives
Functions:
There is a lack of information available regarding Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate because it is a relatively new derivative of Vitamin C being used in skin care products. However, it is considered to be a very stable precursor of Vitamin C that is able to liberate the powerful antioxidant in the skin ( ScienceLab.com). Although Ascorbic Acid can be an irritant and actually cause acne, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate is considered gentle and stable and waits to convert into Ascorbic Acid once it is absorbed. Therefore, it is thought to be a powerful antioxidant that can treat acne on the surface and even stimulate collagen, according to RealSelf.com. It also has skin-whitening abilities ( Beijing Brilliance Biochemical).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Simethicone
* An anti-foaming agent
Functions:
Simethicone is an anti-foaming agent created by combining Dimethicone and Silica. It is often seen as an ingredient in anti-gas OTC medications such as Mylanta and Maalox, because of its ability to decreases the surface tension of gas bubbles and lessen gas pain, according to Wikipedia. Similarly, it is used in cosmetic and personal care product formulas to prevent formulas from generating foam when they are shaken (CosmeticsInfo.org).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database has determined that Simethicone is a low hazard ingredient, as are its two major components, Silica and Dimethicone, when used properly. The CIR has deferred approval for this ingredient, because it has already received the FDA’s approval for use in OTC antacids. No other studies were found that listed negative side effects or warnings regarding this ingredient.
Recommended Products w/ Simethicone:
Silica Dimethyl Silylate
* A suspending agent
Functions:
Silica Dimethyl Silylate is a silica derivative used in cosmetics and personal care products as an anticaking agent, bulking agent, slip modifier, viscosity increasing agent, emollient, and most often as a suspending agent, according to Silicone Specialties (with the Danish Environmental Protection Agencies) and CosmeticsCop.com. It is often found in cosmetics and lip products because of its ability to thicken while moisturizing, and provide long-lasting wear.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database finds Silica Dimethyl Silylate to be 100% safe for use in cosmetics and beauty products. However, because this ingredient is a Silica derivative, users should still be aware of the potential hazards associated with Silica, which is ultimately determined to be a safe ingredient as well when used in its amorphous form (as it is in cosmetic formulations).
Recommended Products w/ Silica Dimethyl Silylate:
Silica
* Absorbing agent
* Also known as Silicon Dioxide
* Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: Silicones and Should We Avoid Them
Functions:
Silica is a mineral found naturally in sandstone, clay, and granite, as well as in parts of plants and animals, and is used as a versatile ingredient in the cosmetics and skin care industry because of its ability to serve as a an abrasive, anticaking agent, bulking agent, opacifying agent and suspending agent. However, it is most often seen as an absorbant, because of its ability to absorb moisture and sweat, according to CosmeticsCop.com and CosmeticsInfo.org. Silica is seen in many make up formulas because its spherical particles not only absorb sweat and oil, but prevent light reflection, and improve spreadability. Silica is also used as an ingredient in powder perfume because the porous spheres can deliver fragrance over a long period of time (ChemistryQuestion.com).
Silanetriol
* A conditioning agent
Functions:
Silanetriol is a latex polymer used in cosmetics and personal care products, often as part of the compounds Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl Silanetriol and Hydrolized Vegetable Protein PG-propyl Silanetriol. It is considered a hair and skin conditioning agent, although little information is available regarding its effectiveness or specific usage. A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology about different conditioning agents and their effectiveness on chemically treated Afro-ethnic hair found that “Straightening emulsions with ammonium thioglycolate containing aqua (and) cystine bis-PG propyl silanetriol … were the ones that provided higher breakage resistance of the thread.”
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database finds both Hydrolized Vegetable Protein PG-propyl Silanetriol and Cystine Bis-PG-Propyl Silanetriol to be 100% safe ingredients, although it notes data gaps in each case due to a lack of available information. No other studies were found that reported negative side effects regarding Silantriol.
Silanediol Salicylate
* Organic silicone
* Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: Silicones and Should We Avoid Them?
Functions:
Very little information is available regarding Silanediol Salicylate, although it is noted in many ingredients lists that it is considered organic silicone. It is the combination of 2-Hydroxybenzoic Acid (which is also known as Salicylic Acid), and a Dihydroxysilyl ester, and is used as a skin conditioning agent and emollient in skin care products and formulas (CosmeticAnalysis.com).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database finds Silanediol Salicylate to be 100% safe, although it does note data gaps due to the lack of information available regarding this specific ingredient.
A variety of side effects are associated with Salicylic Acid/2-Hydroxybenzoic Acid, one of the primary components of this ingredient, including increased sun sensitivity (e.g., UV radiation induced skin damage), skin irritation, and reproductive and developmental toxicity. However, it is unclear whether these same concerns would apply to Silanediol Salicylate.
Serine
* An amino acid
Functions:
Serine is a naturally occurring proteinogenic amino acid that is derived from silk proteins, and plays an important role in the body by helping to form the phospholipids (a major component of the cell membrane) that make up each cell. It also aids in DNA production, fat and fatty acid metabolism, muscle formation, and the maintenance of a healthy immune system, according to Wikipedia and VitaminStuff.com. Serine is used in the cosmetic and personal care industry as a skin conditioning agent, anti-static agent, and hair conditioning agent because of its ability to replenish cysteine levels in the hair to keep it strong and smooth. Amino acids are generally thought to be beneficial to the skin because of their ability to aid in collagen production, boost skin’s elasticity, and replenish moisture.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Sericine
* Silk amino acids
Functions:
Very little information is available regarding Sericine, although it is a glycoprotein that is isolated from Silk Amino Acids, and is made from pure silk elements, including 18 kinds of amino acids. Of these amino acids, L-alanine, L-serine and Glycine comprise over 80%, according to Longs BioChem, a Chinese pharmaceutical company that produces Sericine.
Amino acids aid in collagen production and increase elasticity in the skin; therefore, the high percentage of amino acids in Sericine may make it an anti-aging ingredient or wrinkle fighter. It penetrates the skin and is easily absorbed, and is thought to nourish and protect the skin, and possibly do the same for damaged hair.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Sericine is not reviewed by the Cosmetics Database or any other industry organization. No studies were found that evaluated its safety as a cosmetic or personal care ingredient, and no warnings were found regarding its use. Because it penetrates the skin easily, it should be used with caution.
Sclerotium Gum
* Stabilizer and thickening agent
Functions:
Sclerotium Gum is a gel-like thickening agent used in cosmetics and beauty products because of its versatile properties. According to Auroma.com, it is a polysaccharide produced through a fermentation process (basically fermented sugar) and can be used to reduce the level of oil required in formulas, has natural skin soothing and smoothing properties, and is also used in hair products as a conditioning agent. According to the Cosmetics Database, Sclerotium Gum is emulsion stabilizing and viscosity controlling as well. It is used in cosmetics to prevent pigments from separating.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database finds Sclerotium Gum to be 99% safe and a low hazard ingredient. It is generally considered to be natural and soothing, and no studies were found that listed adverse or negative side effects regarding this ingredient.
Recommended Products w/ Sclerotium Gum:
Sarcosinate
* A surfactant and foaming agent
Functions:
Sarcosinate is an ingredient most often seen as a surfactant and foaming agent in cosmetics and personal care products. According to the book Surfactants in Cosmetics, Sarcosinates are sometimes referred to as “interrupted soaps” and “produce copious soap-like foam, exhibit skin gentleness … have the distinctive property of being strongly absorbed on various protein substrates such as hair, skin.” It can be used in cleansers to impart a smooth and silky feel on the skin.
It is often used in conjunction with other compounds such as: Sodium Cocoyl Sarcosinate, Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (known to be a mild and safe cleanser for both skin and hair that removes surface oil, bacteria, and dirt), Disodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate, and Isopropyl Lauroyl Sarcosinate (a 100% safe emollient, binder, and skin conditioning agent). These compounds are the salts of modified fatty acids, according to RealSelf.com.
Salvia Sclarea
* An essential oil
* Also known as Clary or Clary Sage
Functions:
Salvia Sclarea is an herb native throughout Europe and east and central Asia, and used as a fragrance ingredient in cosmetics and personal care products because of its spicy or “hay-like” odor. It is also thought to reduce excess oil or dandruff on the scalp from excessively oily complexions. This is most likely due to the mucilage formed from Salvia Sclarea seeds, which were historically used to remove eye irritants, but are known to bond to small particles, allowing them to be whisked away (SusunWeed.com). It is also known to have antiseptic, antispasmodic, astringent, and bactericidal properties. Salvia Sclarea was historically used as a flavoring, and was found in beers and ales; it is also used to flavor wine and tobacco products, according to Wikipedia.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Salicylic Acid
* A versatile ingredient used as an acne treatment and exfoliant
* Also known as Beta Hydroxy Acid
* Please read TIA’s post on Beauty Safety for Pregnant Women: An Interview with Dr. Jason P. Rubin
Functions:
Salicylic Acid is a Salicin, formed with Salicin is metabolized. It is considered to have aspirin-like, anti-inflammatory properties and is a popular ingredient in acne treatment formulas. Salicylic Acid is one of several beta hydroxy acids, and works as a keratolytic by exfoliating the skin, “causing the cells of the epidermis to shed more readily, preventing pores from clogging up, and allowing room for new cell growth” (Wikipedia). It is considered especially effective because of its ability to penetrate the follicle, clearing the pores of debris at a deeper level and reducing blockage and in turn, acne flare ups and breakouts, according to Acne.About.com. According to CosmeticsCop.com, citing an articles entitled “Preservatives in Cosmetics,” it also has antimicrobial properties. It is also well documented that salicylic acid can improve skin thickness, barrier functions, and collagen production.
Salicin
* An anti-inflammatory ingredient
* Also known as Willowbark
Functions:
Salicin is an anti-inflammatory agent produced from willowbark that is metabolized to salicylic acid in the body. It has properties similar to aspirin and has been traditionally used to heal wounds, and calm aching joints and muscles, according to Wikipedia. Although the process of converting Salicin to salicylic acid requires enzymes in the body, applying Salicin topically may work because of its aspirin-like, anti-inflammatory abilities, and it is used as a treatment for acne and to treat other skin irritations (CosmeticsCop.com and other research).
In a patent entitled “Use of salicin as an anti-irritative active compound in cosmetic and topical dermatological preparations,” Salicin is thought to be a useful ingredient in “the control and prophylaxis of so-called ’stinging’, the use of salicin for the treatment of atopic dermatitis, skin allergies of type I and type IV, and the use of salicin for increasing the irritancy threshold in sensitive skin.” The aspirin-like properties of the Salicin are also thought to help calm diaper rash, herpes inflammation, and sunburn, in concentrations of approximately 5%.
Sage Leaf
* A skin-conditioning agent
* Also known as Salvia Officinalis
Functions:
Sage Leaf is a natural extract from the whole plant, leaves, flowers, stems and roots of sage plants, which are part of the mint family and native to the Balkan and Mediterranean regions. It is used as a skin-conditioning agent, fragrance ingredient and oral care ingredient in a variety of cosmetics and personal care products, including bath products, shaving creams, fragrance products, shampoos, and cleansing products, according to CosmeticsInfo.org.
Sage Leaf is known to have anti-microbial properties, thought to be because of the thujone content. It can protect formulas against certain bacterias and fungi. This ingredient also contains essential oils, Hydroxycinnamic acid derivatives, and flavonoids, which deliver additional antioxidant effects. According to Escop, a production company, “the antioxidative activity of a dry acetone extract from sage leaf was found to be 101-116% of that of the synthetic antioxidant butylated hydroxytoluene.” It is also thought to have astringent and antihidrotic (fights perspiration) properties. Sage Leaf is also used to treat indigestion, lack of appetite, oral inflammation, perspiration, rhinitis and sore throat, and is thought to improve brain function and memory (WhatReallyWorks).
Saccharomyces Lysate
* Yeast
Functions:
There is very little scientific information on Saccharomyces Lysate, although it is known to be a yeast compound. The Cosmetics Database lists it as a skin-conditioning agent. According to CosmeticsCop.com, citing the Global Cosmetic Industry journal, Saccharomyces Lysate is a group of fungi that ferment sugars, and a source of beta-glucan, which is a good antioxidant. Live yeast-cell derivatives have been shown to stimulate wound healing, but “much of what is known about yeast’s effects for skin is theoretical, and concerns yeast’s tissue-repair and protective properties.” It has also been suggested that Saccharomyces Lysate may have positive effects on inflammation, because of heat-shock proteins (SkinActives.com).
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database finds Saccharomyces Lysate to be 99% safe for use in cosmetics and personal care products, and no other studies were found that reported adverse side effects.
Recommended Products w/ Saccharomyces Lysate :
Saccharomyces Copper Ferment
* Yeast
Functions:
There is very little scientific information on Saccharomyces Lysate, although it is known to be an extract of yeast fermented in the presence of copper ions that may have antioxidant properties. The Cosmetics Database lists it as a skin-conditioning agent. According to CosmeticsCop.com, citing the Global Cosmetic Industry journal, Saccharomyces Lysate is a group of fungi that ferment sugars, and a source of beta-glucan, which is a good antioxidant. Live yeast-cell derivatives have been shown to stimulate wound healing, but “much of what is known about yeast’s effects for skin is theoretical, and concerns yeast’s tissue-repair and protective properties.”
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database finds Saccharomyces Lysate to be a low hazard ingredient in cosmetics and personal care products, although it does note organ system toxicity and enhanced absorption concerns, but states that there is limited evidence of respiratory toxicity. No other studies were found that reported adverse side effects.
Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract
* A skin-conditioning agent
* Also known as baker’s yeast
Functions:
Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract is a skin-conditioning agent used in cosmetics and beauty care products because of its ability to “act in oxidative stress and improve skin conditions,” according to a study published in Food and Chemical Toxicology in 2008 entitled “Evaluation of dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing Saccharomyces cerevisiae extract and vitamins.” The study compared results of transepidermal water loss, skin moisture, skin microrelief and free radicals protection after applying formulas containing vitamins A, C and E esters, just Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, or a combination of the vitamins and the extract (and all 3 against a control group). Results were compared after 3 hours, 15 days and 30 days. Although all of the formulas increased the skin moisture on the patients, only the formulas containing only the Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract or the combination of the vitamins and extract yielded skin microrelief results, whereas the vitamins alone did not.
Saccharide Isomerate
* An emollient
* Also known as Pentavitin
Functions:
Saccharide Isomerate, which is marketed under the trademark name Pentavitin, is a water-binding agent and emollient, according to CosmeticsInfo.org. It is an effective moisturizer containing natural carbohydrates found in the stratum corneum of human skin. It binds to the free amino groups of lysine in the keratin of the stratum corneum, and cannot be washed off easily, leading to long-lasting moisturization (SkinInfo.com). It is also effective in dry hair and low humidity.
In tests done by CenterChem, producers of Pentavitin, in a 2 week study, 32% improvement was seen on the forearm and 40% improvement on the calf was seen after using test creams containing 1.5% concentration Pentavitin.
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
The Cosmetics Database finds Saccharide Isomerate to be a 100% safe ingredient, and no other studies were found that listed any negative side effects regarding this emollient, or Pentavitin.
