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Lancome Genifique
What is really in
U
Usnea Barbata
* An antibacterial ingredient
* Also known as Old Man’s Beard, Beard Lichen, or Treemoss
Functions:
Usnea Barbata is a natural extract found in Lichen tress around the world. It’s main component, Usnic Acid, is considered to be a strong antibiotic and antifungal that is used in cosmetics and personal care products as a natural preservative to prevent the growth of bacteria and fungi in formulas, and as a healing ingredient because of its anti-inflammatory properties (Wikipedia). Although Usnea Barbata is neither FDA or CIR approved for use, in vitro tests have proven its antimicrobial properties, and it has been traditionally used by the Native Americans to treat wounds and gangrene with high levels of success. It is found to be a broad spectrum antimicrobial and is considered effective against all gram-positive and tuberculosis bacterial species.
Ursolic Acid
* An anti-inflammatory ingredient
Functions:
Ursolic Acid is a naturally-derived compound found in a variety of fruits and plants, including apples, basil, bilberries, cranberries, elder flower, peppermint, rosemary, lavender, oregano, thyme, hawthorn, and prunes, that it used in cosmetics and personal care products for its anti-aging and anti-inflammatory properties (Wikipedia). According to Ursolicare.com, Ursolic Acid has anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antibacterial and antifungal properties, not only preventing the growth or bacteria and fungus in formulas and on the skin, but assisting with wound healing as well. Ursolic Acid is known to prevent the development of cyclooxygenase and lipoxygenase, inflammatory enzymes that aggravate the skin (Herbal-Properties).
Ursolic Acid is also thought to improve general health of the skin and hair by creating barriers on the surface, much like the protective wax found on fruits and plants. It is used to “treat photoaged skin, because it inhibits the appearance of wrinkles and age spots by restoring the skins collagen bundle structures and elasticity. Ursolic acid inhibits the action of elastase enzyme in the skin, thereby preventing the enzyme from attacking structural proteins,” according to Naringin.net.
Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine
* A whitening agent
* The chemical name for Sepiwhite
* Please see TIA’s post on Dermaxime.com
Functions:
Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine is a compound that includes amino acids and lipid residue, used in cosmetics and personal care products, specifically whitening formulas, to prevent skin cells from producing melanin pigmentation. Undecylenoyl Phenylalanine inhibits melanotropin, a melanin stimulator found in the skin, according to MakingCosmetics.com. Melanotropin controls tyrosinase activity (tyrosinase being an essential enzyme in the production of melanin), melanin (eumalanin) synthesis and melanosome; therefore, by preventing the production of melanotropin, the pigmentation process is reduced or halted.
According to PGBeautyGroomingScience, “In vitro testing shows that undecylenoyl phenylalanine works differently than other topical ingredients for spot reduction. Currently, niacinamide and N-acetyl glucosamine work by interrupting the melanin synthesis pathway. Undecylenoyl phenylalanine works as an MSH (melanin stimulating hormone) antagonist, preventing the melanin synthesis from starting.”
Safety Measures/Side Effects:
Ubiquinone
* An antioxidant
* Please read TIA’s post on What Is It: Coenzyme q10
* Also known as Coenzyme q10
Functions:
Ubiquinone is another name for CoQ10, a potent antioxidant naturally produced by the body and important to cell functioning and development. Ubiquinone naturally decreases with aging, and it is used in cosmetics and personal care products (in a wide variety of formulas) as an anti-aging ingredient that replaces some of the natural antioxidant produced by the body, whether ingested or applied topically (Wikipedia). When applied topically, Ubiquinone is thought to penetrate the skin easily, and reduce free radical damage via its antioxidant properties. It is also been found to assist cells in building collagen and elastin, therefore reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, according to SmartSkinCare.com. Ubiquinone also has properties that allow it to prevent or reduce oxidative damage to tissues, and may be more effective than Vitamin E at preventing this damage (TheMayoClinic).
