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Posted by David

As a child, I remember my twin sister and I spending countless hours roaming our local grocery store’s aisles with my father who insisted that we tag along to “learn the pains of grocery shopping.” I can’t say that I learned the “pain” – because now I sort of like going – but I can tell you that we met a lot of nice people during our trips there.  One in particular stands out. His name was Harry.

Harry was an older man – looked like Ed Asner, sounded like Santa Claus –  who was probably working the job more for the people than for the money.  We adored Harry because he told great stories and was always willing to convince the baker to give us cookies.  Although now Harry is but a distant memory, I recall one bit of sage advice that he gave me.  ”Keep eating your bread crust and your hair will stay curly.”  I was at a point in life – maybe five-years-old – where I wasn’t really cognizant of my own hair let alone understanding of what curly hair was.  But, for some reason, this pearl of wisdom has stayed with me.

Today, many years later, I sit here typing with a head of curly hair and a five o’clock shadow that grows in even curlier.  I realize now that while Harry’s advice was good for the time, he failed to bestow on me the secret to taming the wild follicles on my face.  These follicles put forth hair that grow in what seems like a thousand different directions and ultimately result in bumps and cuts during shaving.  While I have become desensitized to the pain of shaving, I have not grown accustomed to the visible skin irritation that emerges in countless pictures and makes me self-conscious during work meetings, surrounded by adults who seem to have mastered the secret of shaving.  

So, to avoid this shame, I started using Pacific Shaving Company’s Nick Stick.  Pacific Shaving Company, whose motto is “Good for the skin. Good for the wallet. Good for the earth,” has impressed me with their simple and effective cure to shaving’s inevitable nicks and cuts.  They claim that the Nick Stick “can stop bleeding right away.  And with vitamins A & E and aloe, it will help promote healing and soothe skin, too.”  

After numerous uses, I can attest that Nick Stick meets all these claims and more.  I have noticed that not only does it stop bleeding quickly, but it also helps heal my skin so that it isn’t irritated during subsequent shaves.  The self-sterilizing applicator allows the Nick Stick to work efficiently and its formula leaves behind no traces of residue or chalkiness.  The Nick Stick’s size also makes it easy to put in your Dopp kit or leave in your medicine cabinet.  So, while the run-ins with Harry at the grocery store are memories that will forever stay with me, thanks to the Nick Stick, the wounds of shaving are not.

“If thou tastest a crust of bread, thou tastest all of the stars and all of the heavens.” – Robert Browning

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I’m always looking for a good serum that gives your face that instant “lift’. Normally, I like to apply something before I go to the gym, or when I know I’m going to have a long night out. It’s like caffeine for the skin, a nice little perk that refreshes. One product I came across that I can completely recommend is ESPA for men’s Instant Revitalising Serum ($68).

Espa is a high-end brand used in many high-end spas (Four Seasons, Mandarin Oriental, Rosewood). I’ve always been a fan, especially since they launched the men’s line two years back. I was impressed how they strive to use only natural ingredients (no parabens, no chemicals, no dyes), which is often not the case at similar establishments. Espa’s Instant Revitalising Serum easily worked its way into my skincare regime.

One of the top ingredients in squalane, an oil obtained from shark livers (or, preferably, olives), a powerful moisturizer that permeates the skin rather quickly. Furthermore, it prevents UV damage and promotes cell growth. The essential oils of bergamot and ginger also help promote cell renewal and even out skin tone. Squalane’s partner in crime here is the apricot kernel oil, which is also easily absorbed into the skin, rich in oleic acid and fatty acids, so it’s great for fighting fine lines and revitalizing the skin. It’s particularly beneficial for dehydrated and sensitive skin. Four great ingredients and we haven’t even gotten to the best part!

Instant Revitalising Serum is chockfull of algae extract, packed with goodies like amino acids and minerals, reducing inflammation of the skin and increasing hydration for the skin. There’s also bearberry, one of my favorites, which has extremely beneficial astringent and tonic properties, and has a natural whitening effect. This is actually a bonus. It’s the hypopigmenting component in bearberry that sets off the whitening effect (as in diminishing age spots). It’s also a terrific antioxidant and increases the cell turnover rate quite quickly and works as a natural sunscreen.

There’s also some great essential oils that give your face that boost it needs (sweet orange, ginger, the list goes on). The ESPA Instant Revitalising Serum is definitely a keeper with its myriad benefits (oh, and that sweet, gorgeous smell of it… so delicious!)

Water (Aqua) , Squalane, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot) Kernel Oil, Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate , Oenothera Biennis (Evening Primrose) Oil , Citrullus Vulgaris (Watermelon) Seed Oil , Glycerin , Algae Extract , Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride , Crithmum Maritimum Extract , Butylene Glycol , Hamamelis Virginiana (Witch Hazel) Extract , Sorbitol , Sclerotium Gum , Sodium PCA, Tocopherol, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil , Cymbopogon Martini Oil, Cananga Odorata Flower Oil , Pelargonium Graveolens Flower Oil , Spiraea Ulmaria Flower Extract , Mel (Honey) Extract , C12-16 Alcohols , Alcohol Denat, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi Leaf Extract , Citrus Paradisi (Grapefruit) Fruit Extract , Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract , Morus Alba Leaf Extract , Scutellaria Baicalensis Root Extract , Phenoxyethanol , Stearyl Alcohol , Glyceryl Stearate SE, Sodium Lactate , Benzoic Acid , Dehydroacetic Acid , Lecithin , Palmitic Acid, Phytic Acid , Sodium Hyaluronate , Limonene , Geraniol , Linalool , Citranellol

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One of the disadvantages of international travel (yes, there are disadvantages!) are the long-haul flights which leave your skin so dry you wish they could invent a cream that would replenish the moisture instantly. Well, I don’t see this happening any day, but the closest thing I found so far is Borage Dry Skin Therapy 24-hour repair cream by Shikai ($12.69).

Borage 24-Hour Repair Cream is another indie underdog I discovered at Whole Foods. Seeing that they specialize in dry skin, I thought it would be a good idea to try it out when my skin felt incredibly parched (whether from flying, long hours in the sun, whenever). Borage 24-Hour Repair Cream absorbed instantly without a hint of greasiness. And, as you would expect from a company that specializes in dry skin, left my skin pretty moisturized… for the 24 hours promised!

So what’s the magic in this lotion? It’s actually borage itself. Borage is a blue flower found mostly in the Mediterranean, traditionally used for culinary and medicinal purposes. These days, it’s claim to fame is its oil. The seed oil contains a high source of gamma-linolenic acid. As a matter of fact, the borage flower is the world’s richest source of this acid. The omega-6 fatty acid is vital for the formation and maintenance of healthy skin cells. studies have shown that borage oil provides long-term benefits and relief for those who have dry skin (and even chronic skin problems). As a bonus, the borage oil also contains other rockstar oils like linoleic acid and palmitic acid, giving an extra dose to your dry skin woes. The oil goes directly to the skin cells and basically latches on until new skin cells develop.

Borage Dry Skin 24-Hour Repair Cream also contains avocado oil (known to be one of the most nourishing oils for problem skin). Not only does it have a history of healing and regenerating damaged skin, it also easily absorbs into the deep tissue instead of scratching the surface. The shea butter also helps in hydrating.

I love this moisturizer. Because I generally don’t have super-dry skin, I don’t use it on a daily basis but it definitely comes in handy when I have that dry skin emergency.

Ingredients

Water (aqua), borage (borago officinalis) oil avocado (persea gratissima) oil, jojoba (simmondsia chinensis) seed oil, glycerine, glyceryl stearate SE, shea butter (butyrospermum parkii fruit), natural vitamin E acetate (tocopherol acetate), cetyl alcohol, cyclomethicone, diazolidinyl urea, batyl alcohol, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin.

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I’m not the type of guy to just pick any sample that comes in those small plastic packets. But this past week, my gym was giving out John Frieda Root Awakening Strength Restoring Conditioner ($5.98). It was in a big basket that replaced the complimentary apples. I’m assuming they were out of apples that day but it gave the impression this conditioner was better than fruit. So I playfully took it as a sign and picked up a sample.

John Frieda is a heavyweight in the hair industry, not only a popular salon but a lifestyle brand complete with its own range of hair products. It’s pretty mainstream, and I’m sure you’re familiar (I actually have family members who use the product line).

I wanted to like John Frieda Root Awakening Strength Restoring Conditioner. After using the conditioner, my scalp was tingling and stimulated with a smart coolness from the peppermint and eucalyptus extracts. It felt great on my head and definitely “awakened” my roots. But the reality is that’s pretty much all it did. The product promises to reinforce the hair structure, and the only ingredient that really applies is the panthenol.

It’s like a pop star without any groupies. Most every other ingredient in this product are surfactants, emollients and conditioning agents, so it definitely conditions and gives your hair a ultra-silky feeling… I just wish it was with the right ingredients instead of chemicals (especially completely random ones, like maltodextrin, which is primarily a sugar alternative, but still a hair conditioning agent).

Eucalyptus is a saving grace. It supports healthy hair and, going to back to the “root” of problems, it does help prevent dandruff.

Ingredients

Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cyclopentasiloxane, Behenamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Cetyl Esters, Stearyl Alcohol, Mentha Piperita Leaf Extract (Peppermint), Eucalyptus Globulus (Eucalyptus) Extract, Dimethicone, Panthenol, Propylene Glycol, Menthol, Quaternium 91, Menthyl Lactate, Cetrimonium Methosulfate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Butylene Glycol, Benzyl Alcohol, Glycine, Niacinamide, Calcium Pantothenate (Vitamin B5), Sodium Starch Octenylsuccinate, Maltodextrin, Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Mentha Piperita Oil (Peppermint), Lactic Acid, Pyridoxine HCI, Malic Acid, Salicylic Acid, Silica, Diazolidinyl Urea, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Fragrance (Parfum)

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Australian men have a reputation for being rugged, active, and low-maintenance. It doesn’t hurt that they are also naturally attractive. Someone like Hugh Jackman doesn’t need much assistance in the looks department. However, all men – no matter how physically charmed – need to care for their skin, even if it’s just the bare minimum. Which is why ESHU Skin Assist, a new, no-nonsense skincare range for men, makes sense for the dad who doesn’t have time (or desire) for priming and preening. Developed in Australia and introduced to the US this month, ESHU’s core lineup includes a face wash, moisturizer, face scrub, and shave cream. What more could a man want?

John Mount, an ex-pat who conceived ESHU while adjusting to Australia’s harsh climate, believes that the ideal skincare range for men must satisfy four criteria: function, ease of use, accessibility, and value. ESHU’s straightforward approach meets these benchmarks, valuing substance and simplicity over hype. Its four core products, which range in price from $16 to $27, fulfill the basic needs of every man: getting clean, removing hair, feeling hydrated, and looking good. On top of these essentials, ESHU’s formulas are charged with beneficial properties from plants to provide protection from the elements.

Though ESHU’s products are designed to be effortlessly functional, they are enriched with unique ingredients drawn from local plants that have been used for centuries by indigenous peoples in the Australian wilderness. The face scrub ($19) lightly exfoliates with Australian walnut shell. The mild anti-bacterial face wash ($18) is formulated with anti-inflammatory paperbark oil, traditionally employed by Australian Aboriginies as an anti-septic and anti-fungal to treat open sores, infections, and colds. Gentle enough for the most sensitive of skins, both cleansers removes debris from pores and help release ingrown hairs without stripping away natural oils. Our male tester said the wash left his face clean and refreshed, with just the right amount of moisture to make the skin feel smooth.

The newest addition to its line, ESHU’s shave cream ($16) uses coconut oil to soften the beard hairs and ensure a slick razor glide. True to its roots, the formula combines Australian clove (to help stimulate the whiskers pre-shave) with Australian tea tree oil (to help cleanse and soothe the skin post-shave). ESHU’s everyday moisturizer ($27) is packed with powerful antioxidants and emollients. Endowed with the highest known concentration of vitamin C, Kakadu plum extract protects the skin from environmental damage and promotes skin renewal. Meanwhile, Macadamia seed oil, tea tree leaf oil, paperback oil, and eucalyptus leaf oil work together to keep the skin well-moisturized. Aloe leaf juice acts as an anti-inflammatory on minor shave scrapes and drives nutrients into the skin, while vitamin E naturally conditions skin and protects from the sun’s rays. Essential oils abound in each of ESHU’s products.

ESHU’s signature scent, according to our male tester, is not too overpowering nor too musky. A refreshing mix of citrus, eucalyptus, and mint makes the products smell like they were bottled up straight from nature, even if their formulas fall just short of all-natural. Nonetheless, beyond some ubiquitous PEGs and the suspect preservative methylisothiazolinone, the ingredients are largely as good-looking as the design. Its utilitarian packaging is masculine enough to make even the most macho man proud to display his cosmetic stash. For guys with the same sensibility as those studly mates down under, ESHU deserves a spot at the top of your grooming gift list.

Ingredients in ESHU Face Wash:
Water, Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate, Sodium cocoamphoacetate, Cocamidoppropyl betaine, PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate, Glycerin, Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) leaf oil, Citrus aurantifolia (lime) oil, Rosmarinus officinalis (rosemary) leaf oil, Eugenia caryophyllus (clove) flower oil, Melaleuca quinquniervia (paperbark) oil, Enthol, Camphor, Fragrance, Panthenol, Hydrolysed wheat protein, Benzyl alcohol, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinone, Disodium EDTA, Citric acid.

Ingredients in ESHU Moisturiser:
Water, Ehtylhexyl Palmitate, Glycerin, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Polyacrylamide, C12-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Polysorbate 60, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Cyclomethicone, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Stearate, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Terminalia Ferndinandiana (Kakadu Plum) Fruit Extract, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Citrus Aurantifolia (Lime) Oil, Rosmarinus Officinalis (Rosemary) Leaf Oil, Eugenia Caryophyllus (Clove) Flower Oil, Melaleuca Quinquinervia (Paperback) Oil, Eucalyptus Globulus Leaf Oil, Aloe Bard\badenesis Leaf Juice, Menthol, Camphor, Fragrance, Tocopheryl Acetate, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Methylisothiazolinone, Xanthan Gum, Tetrasodium EDTA.

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Whilst cleaning out my bathroom cabinets of all the shampoos, conditioners, and various skin care products that simply didn’t work, the ensuing melee uncovered a product that somehow got pushed to the back a few weeks ago. No time like the present, so I began putting Elemis Pro Collagen Marine Cream to the test. A British company, Elemis can be found in spas, high-end department stores and offered on cruise lines. The Marine Cream is touted as their number one bestseller on their website.

With a brown algae found in the Mediterranean Sea known as padina pavonica as its key ingredient, it claims to transform the complexion in just over 2 weeks according to independent clinical trials held in 2003. They continue on to say that wrinkle depth was reduced by up to 78% and that hydration was increased by up to 45% while also dramatically increasing skin firmness and elasticity.  With lofty claims come high expectations.

The Pro Collagen Marine Cream is a fairly light, white cream vesseled in a simple screw top jar. I decided to try this only on half of my face and neck so as to better gauge whatever benefits/effects the product may have. I only applied it at night after cleansing and used no other products on the test side during the night or day.

Lightly fragranced, I found it to absorb quickly. After the first application I experienced a breakout around my nose so I avoided that area, but applied everywhere else from the fine lines at the corner of the eyes all the way down the neck.  After almost four weeks of consistent application I can say that although the cream did provide moisturizing properties, I am disappointed to see no improvement in fine lines at the eyes, skin firmness or elasticity.  Priced at $124 for 50ml (1.69 oz), for me this product simply didn’t live up to its claims.

Ingredients

Water (Aqua), Glyceryl Stearate SE, Glycerin, Glyceryl Polyacrylate, Glyceryl Polymethacrylate, Propylene Glycol, Dimethicone, Isononyl Isononanoate, Triticum Vulgare Germ Oil (Wheat), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) (Shea Butter), Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil (Jojoba), Chlorella Vulgaris Extract, Padina Pavonica Extract, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Extract (Carrot), Porphyridium Cruentum Extract, Acacia Decurrens Absolute, Rosa Damascena Flower Absolute, Lecithin, Ginkgo Biloba Extract, Phenoxyethanol, Cetearyl Alcohol, Stearic Acid, Polyacrylamide, Xanthan Gum, Chlorphenesin, Methylparaben, Laureth 7, Disodium EDTA, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Tocopheryl Acetate, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Hydroxyisohexyl 3 Cyclohexene Carboxaldehyde, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Linalool, Citronellol

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After testing face scrubs for years, I think I’m jaded. Or, maybe I just know what’s best for me. There’s the good, and then there’s Anthony Logistics for Men Facial Scrub ($35). Anthony for Men is a popular brand in the men’s grooming market, thanks to marketing and the moderately priced products. From the getgo, I couldn’t get turned onto Anthony for Men due to its fragrance. Sure it’s bright and bubbly and refreshing but it smells like candy or something you would buy your children. That’s already a red flag for me.

I tried out Anthony Logistics for Men Facial Scrub only because it was in a gift bag I received over the weekend. Why not? I thought. It’s been years. I was reunited with that very candy-like, fruity scent, which comes across very unnatural. Then there’s the ingredients. Wow. The first couple of ingredients are pretty toxic, ranking in moderately hazard according to cosmetic database, including cocamidopropyl betaine, propylene glycol, treithanolamine. There’s also some parabens that I could do without.

The good news is that it does contain beneficial ingredients, like algae extract, which helps prevent wrinkles and purifies. There’s also aloe vera leaf juice, which, as you know, heals and calms and moisturizes. There’s a smatter of essential oils (grapefruit, mandarin) which help tone but there’s nothing here that truly deeply exfoliates and offers long-term benefits. The beads are pretty large (there’s finely ground Bora Bora sand – very little – to counteract that), which help remove the dead skin cells and brighten the complexion but it just felt like it wasn’t doing the job. It did exfoliate but I didn’t feel like I got a true, deep-down, pore-cleansing exfoliation. And I was scared off by the chemicals. For a man on a budget, it’s fit, but for a man who’s serious about getting a good facial scrub, there are better ones on the market.

Ingredients

Water (Aqua Purificata) Purified, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Propylene Glycol, Polyethylene, Carbomer, Triethanolamine, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, DMDM, Hydantoin, Absorbic Acid, Algae Extract, Anthemis Nobilis Flower Extract, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Citrus Nobilis (Mandarin Orange) Peel Oil, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, EDTA, Red 4 (CI 14700), Yellow 5 (CI 19140), Blue 1 (CI 42090).

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Here’s a brand that’s got great public relations. I remember Korres when it was just a handful of products back in 2004 when I was in Greece (it’s country of origin). Now they have their own stores (like Kiehl’s), which isn’t very common for a relatively unknown beauty brand. While I was in Soho, I popped into the Korres store, curious about how much the brand expanded and to try out a product. I’m a big fan of white tea, so it was the obvious choice.

What I first loved about Korres is that they don’t beat around the bush. On the web site it will tell you straight up the natural formations that do or do not exist in the product (they tell you that 78.8% of the white tea facial fluid gel cleanser is natural content.. how’s that for specific?). The packing is recyclable, and their products are completely environmentally conscious (well, they strive to be) as well as naturally derived.

The extract of white tea (again, a favorite of mine) has a high content of polyphenols, one of the most potent ingredients combating free radicals as it has strong antioxidant action and improves skin microcirculation (FYI: white tea contains more polyphenols than green tea). Additionally, studies have shown that white tea protects the skin from oxidative stress and immune cell damage. With this said, it definitely helps slow down the anti-aging process (wrinkling, pigmentation, etc). There’s also green tea extract, which reduces redness and helps mitigate skin inflammation and irritation and, as you already know, acts as a powerful antioxidant.

There’s a high concentration of aloe vera in this face wash, which is great, but leaves a soft filmy feel after you wash (which is fine, I just like the squeaky clean feel). This ensures you’re not over-drying or stripping the skin though. Other highlights are the Omega 3 and Omega 6, essential fatty acids that help nourish and replenish the skin.

Though I’m not a big fan of gel at the moment (John Masters foam cleanser set high standards for me), using Korres White Tea Facial Fluid Gel Cleanser for a few days was a joy and I know long-term benefits are in store.

Ingredients

Aqua (Water), Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Decyl Glucoside, PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, Betaine, PEG-40 Glyceryl Cocoate, Sodium Cocoamphoacetate, Sucrose Laurate, Capryloyl Glycine, Coco Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Hydrolysed Oats, Arginine, Benzyl Alcohol, Butylene Glycol, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Castoryl Maleate, Geraniol, Hexyl Cinnamal, Lactic Acid, Linalool, Magnesium PCA, Manganese PCA, Panthenol, Parfum (Fragrance), Phenoxyethanol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Coceth Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Oat Amino Acids, Sodium PCA, Tocopherol, Zinc PCA.

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Here’s a little secret that I just learned: The cost of a spa treatment at any Fresh store in Manhattan is fully redeemable in products (for instance, pay $100 for a facial and get $100 worth of Fresh products for free!). I’ve always been a fan of Fresh since they were a tiny boutique on Newbury Street in Boston (they have grown fast in the past ten years). What makes Fresh unique is that their philosophy is more food-based (rather than science or botanicals), and it was just a matter of time before I got my hands on the new Soy Face Exfoliant ($42).

Apparently in the early nineties, soy was all the rage, proven to have several health benefits. Fresh explored soy for the skin to learn that it also has heaps of benefits externally. Studies have shown that the proteins and isoflavones found in soybeans help in inhibiting milanosome transfer, which is a direct cause of pigment reduction (the isoflavones are the most responsible). It also stimulates collagen (this, as you know, helps increase the skin’s structure, increasing thickness and elasticity). Soy also has antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties, paving the way for that porcelain skin we all desire, and a blessing for anti-aging remedies. Studies have also indicated (yes, there’s more!) that soy helps hydrate, condition and moisturize.

With my research, there was no studies that indicated soy could have an adverse effect on the skin (I just wanted to double check. I think anything good for you internally is also excellent externally when proven).

The Fresh Soy Face Exfoliant, when applied, was a slightly gooey texture with fine jojoba, rose hip and cucumber seeds working as the tiny particles to slosh away dead skin (the subtle scent of the cucumber is delicious). The soy proteins help accelerate cell turnover and the results are instant. It felt natural on my face, which I loved. The cucumber extract soothes and calms, and there’s also grapefruit extract to tone and brighten. And I felt that, afterward, my face was incredibly affected (in a good way, of course) and felt, well, fresh. www.fresh.com

Ingredients

Water (aqua), hydrogenated jojoba oil, cetearyl alcohol, glycine soja (soybean) oil, stearyl alcohol, rosa canina seed powder, kaolin, butylene glycol, phenoxyethanol, cucumis sativus (cucumber) seed, simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) seed oil, cucumis sativus (cucumber) fruit extract, citrus grandis (grapefruit) fruit extract, rosa damascena flower water, melia azadirachta leaf extract, glycine soja (soybean) sterols, tocopheryl acetate, cetearyl glucoside, hydrolyzed soy protein, magnesium aluminum silicate, potassium sorbate, behenyl alcohol, glyceryl stearate caprylic/capric triglyceride, pentylene glycol, disodium edta, xanthan gum, lecithin

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