I have spent an inordinate amount of time trying to find a good sunscreen for the face that works, isn’t full of chemicals and doesn’t irritate my super sensitive skin. Eventually, I came across ColoreScience Sunforgettable. This is a mineral powder with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide that brushes on.

It never makes me breakout and it is surprisingly effective. ColoreScience even claims it carries on working after 80 minutes in water.

I especially like the fact that it is a powder. After my morning regimen of serums and moisturizers, its great not to have to put on yet another layer of gloopy, clog-poring cream. This mineral powder is virtually sheer but it does provide some barely there coverage that evens out the skin tone. However, if you wear makeup this should go on top.

Brushes can be washed and/or sprayed with a sanitizer.  When you’ve used this product up, you can simply buy a refill powder.

The TIA shop has the SPF50 in Medium for $60, and the  SPF30 in Tan Almost Clear (a little darker than the medium, but they are all pretty sheer) and SPF30 Medium Perfectly Clear both at $50.

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I was recently searching online for a safe sunscreen spray to use on my family and myself.  Those who regularly slather sunscreen on their children and spouses can appreciate the convenience of a spray.  Yes, I’ve used those Coppertone sprays (EWG rating: 7) because they are so easy and spray to finely that rubbing is not necessary.  However, once I started educating myself about chemicals and their affects on our health, the usage of these sprays stopped – much to my husband’s chagrin.  So, back to my search…I came across the All Terrain brand and sent an email to their marketing department just inquiring about their product line (sunscreen and eczema remedies).  I received a response from Susan who mentioned their EWG ratings and offered some samples.

I have been utilizing the KidSport Spray SPF 30 ($9.8) (EWG rating: 1) on my kids with great success over the last few weeks.  We’ve had some absolute scorchers here in the Mid-Atlantic so far this summer and the sunscreen has come through with flying colors (even after swimming).  The spray is not fine so some minimal rubbing is required but nothing compared to traditional cream/lotion sunscreens.  There is minimal fragrance so smell is not an issue either.  I am won over!  And my kids appreciate the lesser application time.

Along with the sunscreen sample, Susan sent me their Ditch the Itch product and their Kids Eczeam Cream.  Ditch the Itch (EWG rating: 3) “temporarily protects and helps relieves minor skin irritations and itching due to rashes, eczema, insect bites and poison ivy and oak.  Kids Eczeam Cream (EWG rating: 3) is meant to “protect and relieve eczema, irritations and itching”.  Both of these items seem promising as well although I have not had much occasion to truly test them as much as the sunscreen.  I will try to report back once I have used them more extensively.

All Terrain’s mission is “to sell quality Natural Remedies for Outdoor Enthusiasts.”  Being an environmentally-conscious organization, their products have all natural ingredients and the packaging is made from recycled material, recyclable and/or biodegradable.  Aside from the products previously mentioned, All Terrain also offers natural bug repellants, first aid supplies, latex free bandages, other natural sunscreen options (creams/sprays for adults and kids including waterproof), soaps, and pet care.  Additionally, travel kits and travel sizes are also offered for several products.

Note: I’ve noticed that my local Safeway has started to carry the line so it’s very convenient to pick up as needed.

Ingredients for kidssport spf 30 ($12.99):

Zinc oxide 19% other ingredients: aloe vera (aloe barbadensis) gel, bladderwrack (fucus vesiculosus) extract, caprylic/capric triglycerides, caprylyl glycol, cucumber (cucumis sativus) extract, d-alpha tocopherol (vitamin e), grapefruit (citrus grandis) extract, jojoba oil, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (vitamin c), sea kelp (macrocystis pyrifera) extract, sunflower (helianthus annuus) oil

Ingredients for ditch the itch ($7.99):

Colloidal oatmeal usp 0.1%, aloe barbadensis leaf extract, allantoin, bisabolol, butyrospermum (shea butter), caprylyl glycol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, cetyl alcohol, ceteareth-20, dimethicone, eucallyptus globulus leaf oil, glycerin, 1,2 hexnediol, kaolin clay, melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) leaf oil, neem oil, stearteth-2, topical starch (cornstarch), water xanthan gum, zinc oxide

Ingredients for eczeam cream ($7.99):

Colloidal oatmeal usp 0.1%, aloe barbadensis leaf extract, allontoin, bisabolol, butyrospermum (shea butter) , caprylyl glycol, caprylic/capric, triglyceride, cetyl alcohol, ceteareth-20, dimenthicone, eucalyptus, globulus leaf oil, glycerine, hexnediol, kaolin clay, melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree), leaf oil, neem oil, steareth-2, topical starch (corn starch), water, xantham gum, zinc oxide

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By Copley

The sun is a strange beast. During childhood, it is a source of joy – a sign of summer and an invitation to get out from indoors. But at a certain age, when one becomes cognizant of its malign powers, the sun mutates from friend to foe. It is only in the past few years that I have come to comprehend all the signs of aging for which the sun is responsible. Big brown spots. Small white spots. Moles. Leathery skin. Deep wrinkles. Tiny blood vessels. All of these lovely skin accouterments have the sun to thank for their existence. And then there’s skin cancer, lurking amid atypical moles and scaly lesions stimulated by the sun. When you think about it, the sun is the skin’s worst nightmare.

I learned at an early age that the sun is capable of great evils, especially for someone with my fair skin, prone to proliferating freckles and painful burns. Slathering sun block on the younger me often came with kicking and screaming. But it was critical, since I spent many of my days splashing and running around under the Florida sun. I was persnickety about my choice of sunscreen, amenable only to oil-free face sticks and body sprays. Years of applying only the bare minimum of sun protection has left me mottled and moley. I’m not happy about it, but I’ve learned my lesson.

Nonetheless, there were moments when my judgement slipped. Buying a multi-pack of visits to roast in a tanning booth before prom and during a semester abroad in Ireland were my most flagrant skin abuses. But I was young and vain, more focused on having a healthy tan in the here and now than suffering the health consequences in the far-off future. Nowadays, my sunscreen dilemma combines the prerequisites of providing broad spectrum protection, achieving compatibility with my daily moisturizer (since sunscreen alone is not sufficient for my dry skin), avoiding a greasy sheen or ghostly pallor, bypassing breakouts, and keeping icky chemicals at bay. Yes, it’s a tall order.

For daily safeguarding against the sun, I alternate between two favorites. No sunscreen is capable of making my face as wonderfully matte, balanced, and glowing as DoshaCare Sakala SPF 28 ($29). The formula, based on Ayurvedic principles, blends extracts from turmeric, aloe vera, sandalwood, neem, eucalyptus, hibiscus, fenugreek, shikakai, and tulsi. No less than 98% of its ingredients are drawn from the Earth. Another botanical beauty, Lather Botanical Sunscreen SPF 25 is a lightweight lotion that blends nicely on top of my regular moisturizer, though another layer isn’t even necessary. Defense against UV rays is managed by micronized zinc oxide, while extracts from antioxidant-rich green tea, grape leaf, aloe, and olive, as well as B & E vitamins, provide extra protection. At $16, it is also a great buy since one bottle goes a very long way.

As for the rest of my body, no part goes uncovered if I plan to be in the sun for longer than my morning commute. My lips get a layer of Mission Skincare Lip Balmer SPF 15, one of the only SPF-charged balms I’ve found that lasts a long time and doesn’t taste like sunscreen. My decollete gets shielded and smoothed out by Skin2Skin Organic Anti-Photoaging SPF 30 ($68), a tinted sunscreen that combines zinc oxide and titanium oxide, along with all sorts of organic wonders. Warning: Do not get this sunscreen near white clothing – it should be treated with as much caution as liquid foundation.

Before my Monday evening beach volleyball games, I spritz on some Supergoop Bug Away Spray SPF 30 ($16)- also essential for summer picnics, barbecues, and hikes. When I need to whip out the big guns for an entire afternoon outdoors, I rely on my new drugstore buys: Neutrogena UltraSheer Dry-Touch Sunblock SPF 70 ($10) for the face and body. The formulas may not win any all-natural awards, but they do incorporate a number of sun blockers for broad spectrum protection. Both sheer lotions are oil-free, fast-absorbing, and sweat-proof, making them worthy opponents to the sun throughout an active day.

My mother could be the poster child for any sun safety campaign. All my life, she would never venture outdoors unless she was cloaked from head to toe like Zorro. Sunscreen – no matter how high the SPF – can’t cut it. My mom dreads sitting by the pool, walking on the beach, and going for a boat ride, since each of these activities demands prolonged sun exposure. Playing tennis always entails large-brimmed hats, white long-sleeved shirts, and white leggings under a pleated skirt – even in the middle of an oppressive summer. She would rather get ill from heat exhaustion than risk exposing her flesh to the sinister sun. It makes you wonder why on earth my parents would choose to settle down in Florida of all places.

Though I have never been as vigilant as my mother about my sun protection, once I passed the quarter-century mark, my approach to skin care took a serious turn. I became determined to not just protect my skin from daily UV assault but to also reverse damage already done. I briefly flirted with hydroquinone (in gloTherapeutics gloLightening serum) with the brazen hope that it would vanish my sun spots quickly, without causing the harm that has earned it a black mark in some countries. How silly of me. I learned the hard way that a) my skin is too sensitive to handle this severe irritant and b) the threat of cancer keeps me up at night. After waking up with a patch of flaming red skin, I kicked hydroquinone to the curb. There are so many better, safer alternatives.

I’ve had lots of luck with PRESCRIBEDSolutions A Bolt of Lightening, which uses an enzyme inhibitor called hexylresorcinol to break up excess melanin deposits and block the production of new melanin. It also draws on plant extracts with proven lightening properties such as koji acid, arbutin, and azelaic acid. In the not too distant future, I will probably pony up for photodynamic therapy to see if I can tone down my hyperpigmentation for good.

Bottom line: my skin will never again be a blank canvas thanks to the sun. I know that my sun spots are, for the most part, here to stay and that they will inevitably be joined by wrinkles, scars, and more freckles with time. Alas, that’s all part of the aging process. If you have a favorite sun fighting or fading product, please leave a comment and spread the love!

Ingredients in DoshaCare Sunscreen:
Actives: Octinoxate 7.5 %, Octocrylene 7.0%, Octisalate 5.0%, Zinc Oxide 2.9%
Inactives: Water/Aqua, Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Glycerin, Sorbitan Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Dimethicone, Polysorbate-60, Silica, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Curcuma Longa (Turmeric) Root Extract, Azadirachta Indica (Neem) Leaf Extract, Ocimum Sanctum (Tulsi) Leaf Extract, Santalum Album (Sandalwood) Wood Extract, Eucalyptus globules (Eucalyptus) Leaf Extract, Acacia Concinna (Shikakai) Fruit Extract, Hibiscus Sabdariffa Flower Extract, Eclipta Prostrata (Maka/Bhrigraj) Extract, Trigonella Foenum – Graecum (Fenugreek) Extract, Allantoin, Squalane, Tocopheryl Acetate, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Citric Acid, Essential Oil Blend.

Ingredients in Lather Botanical Sunscreen:
Parsol 1789, ethylhexyl ethylhexanoate, micronized zinc oxide, deionized water (aqua), glycerin, dimethiconol, caprylic / capric trigyceride, butylene glycol, soja glycine phospholipids, grape (vitis vinifera) leaf extract, DL panthenol, aloe barbadensis extract, decyl oleate, trimethylsiloxysilicate, green tea (thea sinensis) extract, sodium hyaluronate, walnut (juglans regia) extract, laurylmethicone copolyol, dicaprylate dicaprate, niacine, rhatany (radix ratanhiae) root extract, royal jelly, olive (olea europaea) fruit extract, PPG-1 trideceth, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, grape (vitis vinifera) seed extract, tocopheryl acetate, cyclomethicone, sunflower (helianthus annuus) oil, phenoxyethanol, potassium sorbate, ethylhexylglycerin, oxynex K (Peg-8 and tocopherol and ascorbyl palmitate and ascorbic acid and citric acid), tetrasodium salt

Ingredients in Supergoop Bug Away Spray:
Actives: Avobenzone – 2.0%, Cedrus Atlantica (Cedarwood) Bark Oil – 0.4%, Cymbopogon Schoenanthus (Lemongrass) Oil – 0.2%, Octinoxate – 7.5%, Octisalate – 5.0%, Octocrylene – 1.4%, Padimate O – 8.0%
Inactives: SD Alcohol 40-A, Cyclomethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Dipropylene Glycol, Dibenzoate, Acrylates Copolymer, PPG-15 Stearyl Ether Benzoate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), Lavendula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil

Ingredients in Skin2Skin Organic Anti-Photoaging Sunscreen:
Actives: Zinc Oxide 6%, Titanium Dioxide 6%
Inactives:Water, Lecithin, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Oil, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Xanthan Gum, Lecithin, Iron Oxide (and) Methicone. O-cymene-5 –ol. (Thyme oil based preservative), Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Dimethicone / Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, Isododecane (and) Butylene/Ethylene/Propylene Crosspolymer.
Certified Organic Extracts of: Punica Granatum (Pomegranate), Rubus Fruticosus (Blackberry/Loganberry) Leaf, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Root, Camellia Sinensis (White Tea), Camellia Oleifera Leaf (Green Tea), Symphytum Officinale (Comfrey) Leaf, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Flower, Zingiber Officinale (Ginger) Root, Equisetum Arvense (Horsetail), Rosa Canina (Rose Hips) Seed, Malva Sylvestris (Mallow), Borago Officinalis (Borage) Seed Oil, Sambucus nigra (Elderflower), Aloe Barbadensis (Aloe Vera) Leaf Juice, Trifolium pratense (Red Clover), Althaea Offinalis (Marshmallow) Root, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) , Macrocystis Pyrifera (Sea Kelp), Panax (Ginseng) Root, Ilex paraguariensis (Yerba Mate), Fucus Vesiculosus (Bladderwrack), Malva silvestris (Blue Malva Mallow), Porphyra Yezoensis (Nori), Ginkgo ( Ginkgo Biloba ), Humulus Lupulus (Hops), Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Seed, Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber) Fruit.

Ingredients in PRESCRIBEDSolutions A Bolt of Lightening:
Water (Aqua/Eau), Alcohol Denat., Propylene Glycol, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Sorbitol, Kojic Acid, Butylene Glycol, Berberis Vulgaris Extract, Mulberry (Morus Alba) Leaf Extract, Hexylresorcinol, Arbutin, Salicylic Acid (Beta Hydroxy Acid), Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C), Azelaic Acid, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Disodium EDTA, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Potassium Sorbate, Hexylene Glycol

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I can’t say that I have found many body lotions doubling as sunscreen that I enjoy using. They are usually too thick and chalky to even consider putting near clothing that hasn’t been put on for the purposes of cleaning out the basement. Or they are greasy and degenerate into sweaty rivulets while doing nothing more strenuous than walking to the bus stop. Drum roll please…. Yes To Carrots Hydrating Body Lotion SPF30 ($14.99).

This cream goes on easily leaving the skin  looking hydrated but feeling perfectly dry and cool. No greasy sheen and no chalky streaks from the 10% zinc oxide. I have found that this is a perfect sunscreen for daily use in the city and it is even relatively sweat proof for outdoor sports and exercise. A useful ingredient is kaolin clay. Not only is kaolin soothing, it will help mattify the shiniest of skins.

As you’d expect from Yes To Carrots, the price to quality ratio is excellent. In fact, it deserves to be added to the list of beauty bargains that do a great job that I pulled together the other day. There are Yes To signature ingredients such as dead sea water and, of course, carrot, a major source of vitamin C, vitamin B6, folate, pantothenic acid, iron, potassium, copper, vitamin A and vitamin K. Shea, jojoba and coconut oil moisturize while chamomile soothes. I also like the inclusion of melon, a source of potassium and vitamin A as well as being an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory.

The only thing not to like is polyhydroxystearic acid, which although considered a low hazard ingredient by the Cosmetic Database is biocumulative and hence its use is limited in Canada.

Active Ingredients: Zinc Oxide (10%)
Inactive Ingredients: Water, Prunus Amygdalus (Almond oil) Fruit extract, Kaolin, Ceaprlic/capric triglyceride, Glyceryl Stearate, Potassium Cetyl Phosphate, Dead Sea Water (Maris Aqua), Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Extract, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract, Aloe (Aloe Barbadensis) Leaf Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Retinyl (Vitamin A) Palmitate, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Cucumis Melo (Melon) Fruit Extract, Glyceryl Isostearate, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides, Potassium Sorbate, Xanthan Gum, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Citric Acid, Dehydroacetate Acid, Alcohol, Benzyl Alcohol, Fragrance (Parfum)

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Italian brand, Dermophisiologique, makes a very good eye cream called Optyma – in fact it is one of our Five Best. So I was excited to try out a lip balm from the Optyma range called Lip Perfect ($18). When I tried it out, I liked the rich, but not greasy texture and it was immediately soothing and hydrating.

What makes this standout amongst other lip balms is something called Tinosorb. I once described this as a sun protection ingredient that might actually work and it was approved some time ago in the EU and Australia. Tinosorb is a broad spectrum sunscreen and it is unique amongst chemical sunscreens in that it both absorbs and reflects like the inorganic filters such as zinc and titanium. But the thing that makes Tinosorb (its chemical name is bemotrizinol and the individual ingredients are listed by Optyma: listed below as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphinyl triazine) special is that it is extremely stable, whereas many other sunscreen actives are decidely not.

Tinosorb, unlike other sunscreen actives, is very stable: it remains 98.4% intact. It can also partly protect other chemical sunscreens, such as avobenzone (Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane) from degradation. It appears to have a good safety profile, even though current safety data are insufficient and, since Tinosorb is relatively new, it is unclear whether it could produce low-level skin damage or systemic effects with long-term use. Considering that tinosorb is stable, poorly soluble and minimally absorbed by the skin, the risks appear to be low.

Alongside Tinosorb is Octyl Methoxycinnamate is an organic ester used in sunscreens and lip balms.  A recent study concluded that Octyl Methoxycinnamate does not penetrate the outer skin in sufficient concentration to cause any significant toxicity to the underlying human keratinocytes. However, it should probably be avoided by pregnant women as estrogenic effects were noted in laboratory animals at concentrations close to those experienced by sunscreen users.

An interesting ingredient is phytosphingosine. These lipids inhibit micro-organisms and their second-messenger function, and are therefore considered part of the body’s natural defense system, and have bacteria-killing properties. Not only does this enable Phytosphingosine to prevent acne from forming, but recent studies in France have also shown it to act as an anti-inflammatory at concentrations as low as 1%. So perhaps we shouldn’t be disappointed to see it at the very end of the ingredients list.

Aloe, shea, ceramide and sodium hyaluronate help moisturize the lips. I am less keen on the alumina and aluminum stearate, which can be neurotoxins, but are hopefully in doses too small to worry about here.

Ingredients

Tridecyl trimellitate, PEG-8 beeswax, methyl hydrogenated rosinate, hydrogenated vegetable oil, octyl methoxycinnemate, shea butter, c12-15 alkyl benzoate, titanium dioxide, carnauba wax, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphinyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane, tridecyl salicylate, aloe, glycrrhetinic acid, fragrance, cetyl dimethicone, polyhydroxystearic acid, alumina, aluminum stearate, sucrose distearate, sodium hyaluronate, phenoxyethanol, tocopheryl acetate, allantoin, bisabolol, ceramide-3, phytosphingosine.

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Science in skincare is so unpredictable and, often for me, so low-brow. Not always in a “this is too wacky for me to like” kind of way; more in a “that’s different” kind of way. I have this reaction with Guinot Large Ecran SPF 30 Sunscreen.

The French line Guinot is known for being innovative in the skincare industry and pioneering some interesting products. Guinot’s Large Ecran SPF 30 Sunscreen was quite striking when I learned DNA was added into the product. After some research, I discovered this was a fairly new method (within the past ten years). DNA added to the sunscreen is beneficial.

In a nutshell (because it gets rather technical and complex), the ultraviolet light from the sun causes damage to the skin cells by actually changing the structure of the DNA in them. Introducing small bits of DNA (thymidine dinucleotide) can boost the cell’s repair pathways so they remove more of the damaged bits of DNA after UV exposure.

The DNA is essentially major protection from the sun and Guinot’s touted, patented Nucleic Defense complex (DNA, heliotropine, filtres and UVA-UVB screens) is basically the abstinence to the regular sunscreen’s condom. The complex combines UVA and UVB filters with actual DNA molecules so it reflects as much as it repairs and protects. When applied, it actually absorbed pretty fast and didn’t have that “sunscreen smell.” It was actually quite fragrant.

The great thing is that it’s not all science. The Large Ecran Sunscreen contains horse chestnut and Enteine extracts, which help soothe, as well as Vitamin E to neutralize free radicals.

www.guinotusa.com

Active Ingredients:

Octinoxate (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) 7.50%, Octocrylene 5%, Oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3) 5%, Titanium Dioxide 5.81%.

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Reviewed by Chris

I’ve been using Belli Anti-Chloasma Facial Sunscreen SPF 25 for about the past four weeks. I was excited to give it a try because it doesn’t contain any chemical sunscreens, which tend to sting my face. And although the product is aimed at pregnant woman to help prevent against melasma and chloasma, I am not pregnant and not afflicted by either condition, so I cannot speak to that issue.

The Belli sunscreen uses titanium dioxide and zinc oxide exclusively, which are my preferred sunscreen ingredients. The balance of ingredients are not organic (which I do prefer), and I could do without the PEG-100 stearate and the phenoxyethanol , but other than those ingredients I don’t see anything that would throw up a red flag.

The sunscreen is lightly tinted – so lightly tinted that I didn’t think it would do much in the way of coverage or evening out my skin tone. I’m happy to say I was wrong! Surprisingly, the sunscreen did a great job of covering minor imperfections without looking heavy or cakey. I used it over my moisturizer and found that I did not need any foundation – just a light dusting of powder and I’m out the door.

The biggest problem I have with sunscreens is the shiny, “sunscreeny” look that most sunscreens impart. A dusting of powder usually tones down the shine, but I’m happy to report I was shine-free even before using powder.

The Belli sunscreen did a great job of protecting my skin under normal conditions. But I don’t think it holds up well to sweat, as I did notice a little redness on the days that I went on bike rides and got hot and sweaty. I think a water-resistant sunscreen would be a better bet on hot summer days that are spent outside, but for a daily sunscreen/tinted moisturizer, Belli has my vote.

Related posts

Beli’s eye brightening cream

Five Best zinc oxide sunscreens

EWG’s safe sunscreen picks

Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide (7%), Zinc Oxide (5%)

Inactive Ingredients: Water (Deionized), Cyclomethicone, Isopropyl Palmitate, C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerine, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG 100 Stearate, Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Sodium PCA, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth 20, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E), Iron Oxides, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Glycereth 2 Cocoate

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I was headed out of the Truth In Aging offices to catch an afternoon Mets game recently and realized that the only sun protection I  had between my face and the hot August rays was the SPF 20 in my face lotion from that morning. Marta kindly supplied me with a bottle of Pratima Neem Rose Face Sunscreen ($16) as I headed out the door with the stipulation that I review it for TIA.  You’ve heard about this product on TIA before. A few readers have recommended it and we named it one of the 5 best zinc oxide sunscreens earlier this summer. We also liked Pratima’s Turmeric Facial Mask.

Pratima’s products are handmade according to Ayurvedic traditions. They believe (and I firmly agree), that “What we apply on the skin should be good enough to eat.” A fully Ayurvedic skincare regimen means that the products you use are determined by what type of skin you have, which can be Vata, Pitta or Kapha. I just took a quick online quiz to determine my Dosha and it told me that I am Pitta. I did not visit an Ayurvedic practitioner before using this sunscreen, but Pratima says that it is suitable for all skin types.

The Neem Rose Face Sunscreen is wonderful. It smells fabulous (like roses), goes on smoothly, rubs in quickly without feeling greasy and provides a full spectrum of sun protection with 18.6% zinc oxide. I have normal skin, not too oily or sensitive, and this caused me no problems at all. Between softball and pool time, I’ve been in the sun frequently over the past weeks and have been happy with Pratima’s performance each time.

The ingredients are top quality. Neem oil, taken from an evergreen tree, is a popular ingredient in natural beauty products because of its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that combat free radicals. Thus, this sunscreen does double-duty as an anti-aging product. Read more about neem in this post by Jimmy.

Marta reviewed some of the other good things in this sunscreen in the zinc oxide roundup, “shatavari, a Himalyan plant whose name means ’she of 100 husbands’. It is, however, a potent antioxidant (source). Brahmi is a marsh plant that is supposed to stimulate hair and nail growth.” You can purchase Pratima Neem Rose Face Sunscreen at http://www.pratimaskincare.com/.

Ingredients:

*Ionized Water, Micronized Zinc Oxide 18.6%, Extract of Neem, Brahmi, Shatavari, Licorice, Vitamin E, Lecithin, Rose Essential Oil, Xanthan Gum.

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Safe sunbathing is now widely accepted as an oxymoron. Safe sunscreen may be one too. Sunscreen is, at the very least, controversial. There are scientists who believe that chemical sunscreens and even a mineral such as titanium dioxide are sensitive to sunlight, whereupon they break down and become free radicals rampaging our good cells. Because of this, some scientists think the population’s increase in melanoma is actually due to using sunscreen. How ironic is that? Nonetheless, we know sun damage is bad for us too, so sunscreen is a necessary evil. Now, what if someone could make a sunscreen that is effective and safe? Antiaging potion maker, Chella, may have done just that.

Chella recently sent me its Anti-aging Formula SPF 25 UVA & UVB Morning Crema for normal to oily skin. Noticing that the active ingredient is ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, I grimaced slightly and put it to one side. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate is usually listed as octinoxate, one of the most widely used sunblocks in the industry. When octinoxate is exposed to sunlight, it is converted into a less UV absorbent form (from E-octyl-p-methoxycinnamate into a Z-octyl-p-methoxycinnamate). For this reason it is usually combined with another active. In this case, Chella has added butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, also known as avobenzone.  Some studies have demonstrated it to be absorbed by the body and secreted into urine, and is therefore not recommended to use on children or pregnant women.

Several days later, I picked up the box and squinted at it. Chella had added in something called Silasoma. What I read next was really interesting: “Silasoma is a scientifically advanced silk protein that encapsulates UVA and UVB filters so that they never touch the skin. The silk protein forms a protective barrier between even the most sensitive skin and the potentially irritating UV filters.” Now you’re talking!

As far as I can understand, Silasoma is polysilicone-14, which is a microcapsule that wraps itself around the sunscreen particles. If this really works, then it seems that harmful sunscreens are rendered harmless because they can’t penetrate the skin. It would also mean that the avobenzone, a notorious irritant, would be less likely to bother me (there are very few sunscreens that don’t make me breakout).

Chella’s Morning Crema ($75, but currently deeply discounted on Amazon) also contains Matrixyl, vitamins E, A, B and C, as well as aloe vera and antioxidant posy of marigold, butcher’s broom, gotu kola and green tea. I’ve been using this cream for the past couple of (hot and sunny in New York) days and found that the protection was good and I haven’t suffered any irritation.

In the meantime, I also found Silasoma in a couple of other products, including Epicuren (who makes a cleanser I also like) Skin Mist Sunscreen ($44).

Related posts

Five Best zinc oxide sunscreens

The EWG’s sunscreen picks

Active ingredients

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (6.60%), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (1.65%)

Ingredients

Water, cetearyl alcohol, palmitoyl oligopeptide, glyceryl polymethacrylate, glyceryl stearate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, polysilicone-14, tocopheryl acetate, retinyl palmitate, acsorbyl palmitate, panthenol, aloe vera leaf juice, propylene glycol, polysorbate 20, trimethylopropane tricaprylate/tricaprate, dimethicone, stearic acid, cyclomethicone, sodium polyacryloyldimethyl, taurate, hydrogenated polydecene, butylene glycol, C18-22 Hydroxyalkyl hydroxypropyl guar, rosemary, gotu kola, butcher’s broom, marigold, horse chestnut, licorice root, green tea, grape seed, (hybrid sunflower), allantoin, trideceth-10, disodium EDTA, etidronic acid, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, fragrance.

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When it comes to testing and reviewing a product, I try very hard to be fair and unbiased, to live up to the “truth” in “Truth In Aging”, and to do every reasonable thing that I can to provide a comprehensive and honest review. So when it came time to write a review of the Physicians Formula products that I am testing and recently learned contain titanium dioxide, things started to look a little complicated. Thankfully, the fine folks at Physician Formula helped me to make sense of everything, and to understand how to ask the right questions and get answers that were meaningful to me. More about that at the conclusion of the review.

Let’s start with a review of the products that I tested, the Physicians Formula Mineral Wear Talc-free Powder ($24.19), and the Physicians Formula Tinted Moisturizer (with SPF 15).  I have been testing both products for the last month. Put simply, in my opinion these are great products. My skin looks and feels great, my entire makeup routine takes less than five minutes, the products are affordable, and  I am protecting my skin from future aging with the very same active ingredient (titanium dioxide) which is found in the physical sunscreens that I have been smugly recommending all year.

I can easily recommend both products but I absolutely love the powder. In less than the 30 seconds it takes to apply the powder, my skin is transformed into a soft natural matt look which lasts from morning to night with zero shine. The innovative packaging is excellent and between the high quality application brush which comes with the powder and the “sieve” shield, I get just the right amount of powder on my face, and it goes (and stays) only where intended. The Physicians Formula Mineral Wear Talc-free powder is a keeper… and will stay in my make up bag going forward.

I can also recommend the tinted moisturizer. I get a nice moisturizing effect, a tad of “foundation”, and an spf 15, all in one.  It is available in a small variety of “tints”, and while the “medium” was perfect for me, Marta will also have a “light” tint moisturizer to make available to some lucky reader to try. (Watch for an upcoming “Dare To Try It” if you are looking for a light moisturizer with sunscreen, and a “light” tint works for you. )

Now for the slightly more complicated part.

Last week I clicked onto Marta’s post on Titanium Dioxide usage in sunscreens, and read the warnings that some of the scientific communities (including the International Agency for Research On Cancer…IARC) have posted, regarding Titanium Dioxide (TD) , and the concern that SOME FORMS of Titanium Dioxide might actually be ingested by the body. Be sure to read Marta’s excellent post in its entirely to get the complete story, but overly simplified, the concern is that while TD is working as designed to reflect dangerous sunrays as an ingredient in sunscreens, there is a question as to 1) whether or not TD can also ABSORB some of those rays and 2) IF IT IS MICRONIZED (a.k.a. ultra fine or nano particle sized, less than 0.1 microns or 100 nanometres) MIGHT those tiny particles be absorbed by the skin cells themselves?

So now you understand my earlier dilemma. The Physicians Formula products I was testing (and loving) contain Titanium Dioxide. AS DO all of my physical sunscreens, and almost all of my cosmetics which are “white and creamy” and virtually everything  which sports an “spf” rating of some kind!  All of a sudden it seems TD is listed as an ingredient in just about EVERYTHING I own, drink, buy etc…including the creamer in my morning coffee! TD is everywhere! This is is one of the top fifty chemicals produced worldwide because it is used as a completely safe white pigment in virtually everything… and it is an element which is literally as old as dirt.

Before you run screaming into your bathroom to toss all of your sun blocks, make up, lip sticks, etc, you will want to understand why and when TD is, or isn’t risky, and what specifically has to happen to justify even the slightest concern. First, unless the TD particles are MICRONIZED, there is no debate that TD is considered absolutely, completely, safe. So safe, in fact, that TD has been added as a white pigment to almost every pill and tablet on earth, and even to milk, purely for appearance sake. It can be ingested in the course of normal consumption by humans (and many other species including dogs, cats, rats, rabbits, guinea pigs, etc) without harm or risk, and can be used safely in cosmetics etc, if it is “course” or “fine” The only area of possible debate is the “ultra fine” form, although there is no clear evidence that even this form is risky.  The reason the safety issue of super refined TD is just now coming up is because technology advances have now enabled us to mill the ultra fine size, something not possible just decades earlier.

Ah, so the key to absolutely positively “safe” usage is in knowing the particle size! In the case of the Physicians Formula products, I simply checked with the manufacturer and found out that 1) the Titanium Dioxide in the powder is the completely “safe” larger particle size, and 2) the TD in the moisturizer is the “super fine” size, but the particles have been coated with additives to improve adhesion, etc,  resulting in the larger “safe” particle size as well. Great!

But what is the average consumer to do? Without checking with every manufacturer directly, how can the average consumer who chooses to avoid the nano-sized particle, know for sure? Sadly, there is no easy answer, but if the product has a “white” tone to it, you can be almost 100% sure it contains the larger TD particle size. After all, a primary reason for the creation of the nano-sized TD particle was to avoid the “white” coating look, in the first place.

I also asked the makers of Physicians Formula if there were a standard or a web site which might post this information. According to Physician Formula,  “There is no standard for titanium dioxide or for nano-technology in cosmetics.  There is a lot of useful information at PCPC’s (Personal Care Product Council) website.  There is no substantiated evidence to show that there is any danger or harm in using sunscreens containing ultra-fine titanium dioxide, and this is even supported by EWG (Environmental Working group)”.

So the bottom line, at least for me, is to continue to use products which contain course and medium sized Titanium Dioxide which has been proven to be a safe and effective product, especially in physical sunscreens, while I watch for further studies on any safety issues regarding the ultra fine particles. And I specifically plan to continue my usage of the Physicians Formula Mineral Wear Talc-free powder and moisturizer.

No doubt, much more to come.

Five Best zinc oxide sunscreens

Physicians Formula Mineral Wear Talc Free Powder
Active ingredients: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide. inactive ingredients: boron nitride, zinc stearate, lauroyl lysine, retinyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate, methylparaben, propylparaben, may contain: mica, iron oxides

Physicians Formula Tinted Moisturizer with SPF 15
Active ingredients: titanium dioxide
Inactive ingredients: water *, cyclopentasiloxane, butylene glycol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, triethylhexanoin, cetyl peg/ppg-10/1 dimethicone, sd alcohol 40, squalane, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, mica, disteardimonium hectorite, peg-32, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, alumina, cucumis sativus (cucumber) fruit extract, dimethicone, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, disodium edta, glycerin, malachite extract, panthenol, retinyl palmitate, rhodochrosite extract, ruby powder, sapphire powder, smithsonite extract, stearic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, tocopheryl acetate, tourmaline, sodium dehydroacetate, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, lavandula angustifolia (lavender) oil. may contain: iron oxides, titanium dioxide * mineral water.

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