Italian brand, Dermophisiologique, makes a very good eye cream called Optyma – in fact it is one of our Five Best. So I was excited to try out a lip balm from the Optyma range called Lip Perfect ($18). When I tried it out, I liked the rich, but not greasy texture and it was immediately soothing and hydrating.

What makes this standout amongst other lip balms is something called Tinosorb. I once described this as a sun protection ingredient that might actually work and it was approved some time ago in the EU and Australia. Tinosorb is a broad spectrum sunscreen and it is unique amongst chemical sunscreens in that it both absorbs and reflects like the inorganic filters such as zinc and titanium. But the thing that makes Tinosorb (its chemical name is bemotrizinol and the individual ingredients are listed by Optyma: listed below as bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphinyl triazine) special is that it is extremely stable, whereas many other sunscreen actives are decidely not.

Tinosorb, unlike other sunscreen actives, is very stable: it remains 98.4% intact. It can also partly protect other chemical sunscreens, such as avobenzone (Butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane) from degradation. It appears to have a good safety profile, even though current safety data are insufficient and, since Tinosorb is relatively new, it is unclear whether it could produce low-level skin damage or systemic effects with long-term use. Considering that tinosorb is stable, poorly soluble and minimally absorbed by the skin, the risks appear to be low.

Alongside Tinosorb is Octyl Methoxycinnamate is an organic ester used in sunscreens and lip balms.  A recent study concluded that Octyl Methoxycinnamate does not penetrate the outer skin in sufficient concentration to cause any significant toxicity to the underlying human keratinocytes. However, it should probably be avoided by pregnant women as estrogenic effects were noted in laboratory animals at concentrations close to those experienced by sunscreen users.

An interesting ingredient is phytosphingosine. These lipids inhibit micro-organisms and their second-messenger function, and are therefore considered part of the body’s natural defense system, and have bacteria-killing properties. Not only does this enable Phytosphingosine to prevent acne from forming, but recent studies in France have also shown it to act as an anti-inflammatory at concentrations as low as 1%. So perhaps we shouldn’t be disappointed to see it at the very end of the ingredients list.

Aloe, shea, ceramide and sodium hyaluronate help moisturize the lips. I am less keen on the alumina and aluminum stearate, which can be neurotoxins, but are hopefully in doses too small to worry about here.

Ingredients

Tridecyl trimellitate, PEG-8 beeswax, methyl hydrogenated rosinate, hydrogenated vegetable oil, octyl methoxycinnemate, shea butter, c12-15 alkyl benzoate, titanium dioxide, carnauba wax, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphinyl triazine, butyl methoxydibenzoyl methane, tridecyl salicylate, aloe, glycrrhetinic acid, fragrance, cetyl dimethicone, polyhydroxystearic acid, alumina, aluminum stearate, sucrose distearate, sodium hyaluronate, phenoxyethanol, tocopheryl acetate, allantoin, bisabolol, ceramide-3, phytosphingosine.

Science in skincare is so unpredictable and, often for me, so low-brow. Not always in a “this is too wacky for me to like” kind of way; more in a “that’s different” kind of way. I have this reaction with Guinot Large Ecran SPF 30 Sunscreen.

The French line Guinot is known for being innovative in the skincare industry and pioneering some interesting products. Guinot’s Large Ecran SPF 30 Sunscreen was quite striking when I learned DNA was added into the product. After some research, I discovered this was a fairly new method (within the past ten years). DNA added to the sunscreen is beneficial.

In a nutshell (because it gets rather technical and complex), the ultraviolet light from the sun causes damage to the skin cells by actually changing the structure of the DNA in them. Introducing small bits of DNA (thymidine dinucleotide) can boost the cell’s repair pathways so they remove more of the damaged bits of DNA after UV exposure.

The DNA is essentially major protection from the sun and Guinot’s touted, patented Nucleic Defense complex (DNA, heliotropine, filtres and UVA-UVB screens) is basically the abstinence to the regular sunscreen’s condom. The complex combines UVA and UVB filters with actual DNA molecules so it reflects as much as it repairs and protects. When applied, it actually absorbed pretty fast and didn’t have that “sunscreen smell.” It was actually quite fragrant.

The great thing is that it’s not all science. The Large Ecran Sunscreen contains horse chestnut and Enteine extracts, which help soothe, as well as Vitamin E to neutralize free radicals.

www.guinotusa.com

Active Ingredients:

Octinoxate (Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate) 7.50%, Octocrylene 5%, Oxybenzone (Benzophenone-3) 5%, Titanium Dioxide 5.81%.

Reviewed by Chris

I’ve been using Belli Anti-Chloasma Facial Sunscreen SPF 25 for about the past four weeks. I was excited to give it a try because it doesn’t contain any chemical sunscreens, which tend to sting my face. And although the product is aimed at pregnant woman to help prevent against melasma and chloasma, I am not pregnant and not afflicted by either condition, so I cannot speak to that issue.

The Belli sunscreen uses titanium dioxide and zinc oxide exclusively, which are my preferred sunscreen ingredients. The balance of ingredients are not organic (which I do prefer), and I could do without the PEG-100 stearate and the phenoxyethanol , but other than those ingredients I don’t see anything that would throw up a red flag.

The sunscreen is lightly tinted – so lightly tinted that I didn’t think it would do much in the way of coverage or evening out my skin tone. I’m happy to say I was wrong! Surprisingly, the sunscreen did a great job of covering minor imperfections without looking heavy or cakey. I used it over my moisturizer and found that I did not need any foundation – just a light dusting of powder and I’m out the door.

The biggest problem I have with sunscreens is the shiny, “sunscreeny” look that most sunscreens impart. A dusting of powder usually tones down the shine, but I’m happy to report I was shine-free even before using powder.

The Belli sunscreen did a great job of protecting my skin under normal conditions. But I don’t think it holds up well to sweat, as I did notice a little redness on the days that I went on bike rides and got hot and sweaty. I think a water-resistant sunscreen would be a better bet on hot summer days that are spent outside, but for a daily sunscreen/tinted moisturizer, Belli has my vote.

Related posts

Beli’s eye brightening cream

Five Best zinc oxide sunscreens

EWG’s safe sunscreen picks

Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide (7%), Zinc Oxide (5%)

Inactive Ingredients: Water (Deionized), Cyclomethicone, Isopropyl Palmitate, C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerine, Cetyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG 100 Stearate, Polyglyceryl 2 Diisostearate, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Sodium PCA, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth 20, Phenoxyethanol, Xanthan Gum, Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E), Iron Oxides, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Glycereth 2 Cocoate

I was headed out of the Truth In Aging offices to catch an afternoon Mets game recently and realized that the only sun protection I  had between my face and the hot August rays was the SPF 20 in my face lotion from that morning. Marta kindly supplied me with a bottle of Pratima Neem Rose Face Sunscreen ($16) as I headed out the door with the stipulation that I review it for TIA.  You’ve heard about this product on TIA before. A few readers have recommended it and we named it one of the 5 best zinc oxide sunscreens earlier this summer. We also liked Pratima’s Turmeric Facial Mask.

Pratima’s products are handmade according to Ayurvedic traditions. They believe (and I firmly agree), that “What we apply on the skin should be good enough to eat.” A fully Ayurvedic skincare regimen means that the products you use are determined by what type of skin you have, which can be Vata, Pitta or Kapha. I just took a quick online quiz to determine my Dosha and it told me that I am Pitta. I did not visit an Ayurvedic practitioner before using this sunscreen, but Pratima says that it is suitable for all skin types.

The Neem Rose Face Sunscreen is wonderful. It smells fabulous (like roses), goes on smoothly, rubs in quickly without feeling greasy and provides a full spectrum of sun protection with 18.6% zinc oxide. I have normal skin, not too oily or sensitive, and this caused me no problems at all. Between softball and pool time, I’ve been in the sun frequently over the past weeks and have been happy with Pratima’s performance each time.

The ingredients are top quality. Neem oil, taken from an evergreen tree, is a popular ingredient in natural beauty products because of its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties that combat free radicals. Thus, this sunscreen does double-duty as an anti-aging product. Read more about neem in this post by Jimmy.

Marta reviewed some of the other good things in this sunscreen in the zinc oxide roundup, “shatavari, a Himalyan plant whose name means ’she of 100 husbands’. It is, however, a potent antioxidant (source). Brahmi is a marsh plant that is supposed to stimulate hair and nail growth.” You can purchase Pratima Neem Rose Face Sunscreen at http://www.pratimaskincare.com/.

Ingredients:

*Ionized Water, Micronized Zinc Oxide 18.6%, Extract of Neem, Brahmi, Shatavari, Licorice, Vitamin E, Lecithin, Rose Essential Oil, Xanthan Gum.

Safe sunbathing is now widely accepted as an oxymoron. Safe sunscreen may be one too. Sunscreen is, at the very least, controversial. There are scientists who believe that chemical sunscreens and even a mineral such as titanium dioxide are sensitive to sunlight, whereupon they break down and become free radicals rampaging our good cells. Because of this, some scientists think the population’s increase in melanoma is actually due to using sunscreen. How ironic is that? Nonetheless, we know sun damage is bad for us too, so sunscreen is a necessary evil. Now, what if someone could make a sunscreen that is effective and safe? Antiaging potion maker, Chella, may have done just that.

Chella recently sent me its Anti-aging Formula SPF 25 UVA & UVB Morning Crema for normal to oily skin. Noticing that the active ingredient is ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, I grimaced slightly and put it to one side. Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate is usually listed as octinoxate, one of the most widely used sunblocks in the industry. When octinoxate is exposed to sunlight, it is converted into a less UV absorbent form (from E-octyl-p-methoxycinnamate into a Z-octyl-p-methoxycinnamate). For this reason it is usually combined with another active. In this case, Chella has added butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, also known as avobenzone.  Some studies have demonstrated it to be absorbed by the body and secreted into urine, and is therefore not recommended to use on children or pregnant women.

Several days later, I picked up the box and squinted at it. Chella had added in something called Silasoma. What I read next was really interesting: “Silasoma is a scientifically advanced silk protein that encapsulates UVA and UVB filters so that they never touch the skin. The silk protein forms a protective barrier between even the most sensitive skin and the potentially irritating UV filters.” Now you’re talking!

As far as I can understand, Silasoma is polysilicone-14, which is a microcapsule that wraps itself around the sunscreen particles. If this really works, then it seems that harmful sunscreens are rendered harmless because they can’t penetrate the skin. It would also mean that the avobenzone, a notorious irritant, would be less likely to bother me (there are very few sunscreens that don’t make me breakout).

Chella’s Morning Crema ($75, but currently deeply discounted on Amazon) also contains Matrixyl, vitamins E, A, B and C, as well as aloe vera and antioxidant posy of marigold, butcher’s broom, gotu kola and green tea. I’ve been using this cream for the past couple of (hot and sunny in New York) days and found that the protection was good and I haven’t suffered any irritation.

In the meantime, I also found Silasoma in a couple of other products, including Epicuren (who makes a cleanser I also like) Skin Mist Sunscreen ($44).

Related posts

Five Best zinc oxide sunscreens

The EWG’s sunscreen picks

Active ingredients

Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (6.60%), butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane (1.65%)

Ingredients

Water, cetearyl alcohol, palmitoyl oligopeptide, glyceryl polymethacrylate, glyceryl stearate, caprylic/capric triglyceride, polysilicone-14, tocopheryl acetate, retinyl palmitate, acsorbyl palmitate, panthenol, aloe vera leaf juice, propylene glycol, polysorbate 20, trimethylopropane tricaprylate/tricaprate, dimethicone, stearic acid, cyclomethicone, sodium polyacryloyldimethyl, taurate, hydrogenated polydecene, butylene glycol, C18-22 Hydroxyalkyl hydroxypropyl guar, rosemary, gotu kola, butcher’s broom, marigold, horse chestnut, licorice root, green tea, grape seed, (hybrid sunflower), allantoin, trideceth-10, disodium EDTA, etidronic acid, phenoxyethanol, ethylhexylglycerin, fragrance.

When it comes to testing and reviewing a product, I try very hard to be fair and unbiased, to live up to the “truth” in “Truth In Aging”, and to do every reasonable thing that I can to provide a comprehensive and honest review. So when it came time to write a review of the Physicians Formula products that I am testing and recently learned contain titanium dioxide, things started to look a little complicated. Thankfully, the fine folks at Physician Formula helped me to make sense of everything, and to understand how to ask the right questions and get answers that were meaningful to me. More about that at the conclusion of the review.

Let’s start with a review of the products that I tested, the Physicians Formula Mineral Wear Talc-free Powder ($24.19), and the Physicians Formula Tinted Moisturizer (with SPF 15).  I have been testing both products for the last month. Put simply, in my opinion these are great products. My skin looks and feels great, my entire makeup routine takes less than five minutes, the products are affordable, and  I am protecting my skin from future aging with the very same active ingredient (titanium dioxide) which is found in the physical sunscreens that I have been smugly recommending all year.

I can easily recommend both products but I absolutely love the powder. In less than the 30 seconds it takes to apply the powder, my skin is transformed into a soft natural matt look which lasts from morning to night with zero shine. The innovative packaging is excellent and between the high quality application brush which comes with the powder and the “sieve” shield, I get just the right amount of powder on my face, and it goes (and stays) only where intended. The Physicians Formula Mineral Wear Talc-free powder is a keeper… and will stay in my make up bag going forward.

I can also recommend the tinted moisturizer. I get a nice moisturizing effect, a tad of “foundation”, and an spf 15, all in one.  It is available in a small variety of “tints”, and while the “medium” was perfect for me, Marta will also have a “light” tint moisturizer to make available to some lucky reader to try. (Watch for an upcoming “Dare To Try It” if you are looking for a light moisturizer with sunscreen, and a “light” tint works for you. )

Now for the slightly more complicated part.

Last week I clicked onto Marta’s post on Titanium Dioxide usage in sunscreens, and read the warnings that some of the scientific communities (including the International Agency for Research On Cancer…IARC) have posted, regarding Titanium Dioxide (TD) , and the concern that SOME FORMS of Titanium Dioxide might actually be ingested by the body. Be sure to read Marta’s excellent post in its entirely to get the complete story, but overly simplified, the concern is that while TD is working as designed to reflect dangerous sunrays as an ingredient in sunscreens, there is a question as to 1) whether or not TD can also ABSORB some of those rays and 2) IF IT IS MICRONIZED (a.k.a. ultra fine or nano particle sized, less than 0.1 microns or 100 nanometres) MIGHT those tiny particles be absorbed by the skin cells themselves?

So now you understand my earlier dilemma. The Physicians Formula products I was testing (and loving) contain Titanium Dioxide. AS DO all of my physical sunscreens, and almost all of my cosmetics which are “white and creamy” and virtually everything  which sports an “spf” rating of some kind!  All of a sudden it seems TD is listed as an ingredient in just about EVERYTHING I own, drink, buy etc…including the creamer in my morning coffee! TD is everywhere! This is is one of the top fifty chemicals produced worldwide because it is used as a completely safe white pigment in virtually everything… and it is an element which is literally as old as dirt.

Before you run screaming into your bathroom to toss all of your sun blocks, make up, lip sticks, etc, you will want to understand why and when TD is, or isn’t risky, and what specifically has to happen to justify even the slightest concern. First, unless the TD particles are MICRONIZED, there is no debate that TD is considered absolutely, completely, safe. So safe, in fact, that TD has been added as a white pigment to almost every pill and tablet on earth, and even to milk, purely for appearance sake. It can be ingested in the course of normal consumption by humans (and many other species including dogs, cats, rats, rabbits, guinea pigs, etc) without harm or risk, and can be used safely in cosmetics etc, if it is “course” or “fine” The only area of possible debate is the “ultra fine” form, although there is no clear evidence that even this form is risky.  The reason the safety issue of super refined TD is just now coming up is because technology advances have now enabled us to mill the ultra fine size, something not possible just decades earlier.

Ah, so the key to absolutely positively “safe” usage is in knowing the particle size! In the case of the Physicians Formula products, I simply checked with the manufacturer and found out that 1) the Titanium Dioxide in the powder is the completely “safe” larger particle size, and 2) the TD in the moisturizer is the “super fine” size, but the particles have been coated with additives to improve adhesion, etc,  resulting in the larger “safe” particle size as well. Great!

But what is the average consumer to do? Without checking with every manufacturer directly, how can the average consumer who chooses to avoid the nano-sized particle, know for sure? Sadly, there is no easy answer, but if the product has a “white” tone to it, you can be almost 100% sure it contains the larger TD particle size. After all, a primary reason for the creation of the nano-sized TD particle was to avoid the “white” coating look, in the first place.

I also asked the makers of Physicians Formula if there were a standard or a web site which might post this information. According to Physician Formula,  “There is no standard for titanium dioxide or for nano-technology in cosmetics.  There is a lot of useful information at PCPC’s (Personal Care Product Council) website.  There is no substantiated evidence to show that there is any danger or harm in using sunscreens containing ultra-fine titanium dioxide, and this is even supported by EWG (Environmental Working group)”.

So the bottom line, at least for me, is to continue to use products which contain course and medium sized Titanium Dioxide which has been proven to be a safe and effective product, especially in physical sunscreens, while I watch for further studies on any safety issues regarding the ultra fine particles. And I specifically plan to continue my usage of the Physicians Formula Mineral Wear Talc-free powder and moisturizer.

No doubt, much more to come.

Five Best zinc oxide sunscreens

Physicians Formula Mineral Wear Talc Free Powder
Active ingredients: titanium dioxide, zinc oxide. inactive ingredients: boron nitride, zinc stearate, lauroyl lysine, retinyl palmitate, tocopheryl acetate, methylparaben, propylparaben, may contain: mica, iron oxides

Physicians Formula Tinted Moisturizer with SPF 15
Active ingredients: titanium dioxide
Inactive ingredients: water *, cyclopentasiloxane, butylene glycol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, triethylhexanoin, cetyl peg/ppg-10/1 dimethicone, sd alcohol 40, squalane, polyglyceryl-4 isostearate, mica, disteardimonium hectorite, peg-32, aloe barbadensis leaf juice, alumina, cucumis sativus (cucumber) fruit extract, dimethicone, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, disodium edta, glycerin, malachite extract, panthenol, retinyl palmitate, rhodochrosite extract, ruby powder, sapphire powder, smithsonite extract, stearic acid, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, tocopheryl acetate, tourmaline, sodium dehydroacetate, phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, lavandula angustifolia (lavender) oil. may contain: iron oxides, titanium dioxide * mineral water.

Reviewed by Kate

In case you missed my April 20th post on the science and history of self-tanners, and my quest to find “stink-free” self tanning products that don’t dry my skin or turn it orange, here is the Cliff Note version of that earlier review.

Self-tanners don’t actually tan your skin, they contain a substance (often a derivative of vegetables and/or sugars) which simply (and safely) turns the top layer of skin a “tan” color. The substance, Dehydroxyaceatone (DHA) is what also typically gives most self-tanning products an unpleasant “burned/acrid” odor, which some manufacturers try to address with a “cover-up” scent which typically makes things worse.  Another challenge in discovering a great self tanner is to find one that provides believable color across a variety of body parts…. tough to do because of the variation in skin thickness (which affects color outcome) between shins, thighs, faces, etc, plus the great variety in natural skin tones: pale white to deep olive. Lastly, finding a self tanner which includes an effective and appropriate moisturizer is important, because mixing DHA and certain moisturizing”oils” (mineral oil included) changes the PH and the color… an unpleasant surprise for anyone who naively applied their self tanner under or over another moisturizing cream containing oils.

So just in time for summer fun, I am adding the Xen-Tan line of self -tanning products to my very very short list of recommended self tanners. The Xen-Tan self tanning line is one that does an excellent job, smells great, and it appears that it might actually be GOOD for your skin.

For the last month I have been testing the Xen-Tan Deep Bronze (body) Tanner on my horrifically white legs, and the Xen-Tan Face Tanner on my neck, ears and face. Both products worked a bit differently than old-school self tanners because they contain some very sophisticated anti-aging ingredients.  The result is a great looking fake bake, plus an absolutely delightful scent, and healthy skin.

The Xen-Tan Deep Bronze “time release” tanner (5oz, $26) looks and smells exactly like milk chocolate pudding in the tube, but it vanishes nicely and quickly when applied. The scent is fantastic (if you like chocolate)…and while the product didn’t transfer to my sheets or clothes, both did retain the chocolate scent for about 12 hours.  The body tanner gave me  a great even “tan”… it didn’t streak or make my skin appear mottled, but I should mention that I carefully avoided my knee caps and was sure to smooth it in evenly when applying it around my ankle bones and the tops of my feet.  The color developed nicely over about three hours but was fairly light with just a single application. A second light coating the next day gave me the perfect amount of color without looking “muddy”. My tan stayed “true” for about four days, then quickly disappeared, but the product left my skin feeling nicely hydrated, likely because of the Shea butter which is a great moisturizer, and I was especially pleased to find that there were no bad-for-you parabens in the product.

Interestingly, it is also the first self-tanner that I have seen which contains Silimarin: aka Milk Thistle (see Marta’s most recent posting on Milk Thistle as a topical antioxidant and the potential for blocking free radicals and shielding the skin from UVB damage). The body tanning product also contains “aloe barbadenis” (which is reportedly a natural skin soother) and glycerin which attracts moisture to the skin and leaves it looking great. It also contains Green Tea, Gingko Biloba Leaf Extract, and Lactic acid (to exfoliate) and while those  are enviable ingredients, their addition most certainly contributes to the price. My 5 oz tube lasted me just over a month, but I was fairly liberal in my usage, and I did use two coats on consecutive days because I wanted a nice dark! “tan”.& nbsp; Overall, when considering the price per ounce and the quality of the ingredients, and of course the “tan” appearance itself, this is an excellent product.

The Xen-Tan Face Tanner (2.7 oz, $19) contains similar ingredients albeit in slightly different percentages, but is without the dyes found in the body tanning product. It spreads slightly differently as well, and has a light bronze (vs. chocolate pudding) tint. In this case, I highly endorse the addition of the somewhat pricey ingredients mentioned above. That is because the Face Tanner can be used as often as daily, in place of your facial moisturizer and/or foundation, and those additional ingredients are great for your complexion and have anti-aging qualities.  I used the Face Tanner sparingly every other day for a month, and it gave me a natural looking and again streak free tan on my neck, ears and face. It also did so without pooling up (and darkening) in the tiny laugh lines that I don’t mind having, but certainly don’t want to emphasize.  Over all, the Xen-Tan Facial tanner is the best facial tanner I have ever tried, and while it is not the least expensive facial tanner you could find, one tube should last most of the summer. It is an excellent addition to my summer skin care regime.

One final note, regardless of which type of self tanner you are using or considering, you will want to know that a recent study (read the earlier post mentioned above for the details) done by Katinka Jung of the Gematria Test Lab in Berlin found that self-tanners actually significantly INCREASE the risk of sun-related free radical damage and skin cancer for about the first 48 hours following application, as compared to “untreated” skin. So the smart thing to do is to plan ahead and apply your self tanner a day (or ideally two) before heading to the beach (or any prolonged period of exposure) and be SURE to also apply a great physical sun block every day.

Related posts

Plants that provide sun protection

Ingredients: Deep Bronze tanner:

Water (aqua), Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Dihydroxyacetone, Glycerine, Trimenthylpentanediol/Adipic Acid Copolymer,Cyclomethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Stearyl Alcohol, Steareth-21, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Tocopheryle Acetate, Ginko Biloba Extract, Camelia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Silybum Marianum (Milk Thistle) Extract, Xanthan Gum, DMDM Hydantoin, Sodium Metabisulfite, Lactic Acid, Fragrance (Parfum), Octadecyl Di-t-butyl-4-hydroxhdrocinnamate, Carmel, Yellow 10, blue 1, Red 40.

Ingredients: Face Tanner:

Water (aqua), Caprylic/Capric Triglycerides, Glycerine, Dihydroxyacetone, Trimenthylpentanediol/Adipic Acid Copolymer,Cyclomethicone, Glyceryl Stearate,Stearyl Alcohol,  Steareth-21, Tocopheryle Acetate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter), Camelia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Silybum Marianum (Milk Thistle) Extract, Ginko Biloba Extract, Xanthan Gum, DMDM Hydantoin, Sodium Metabisulfite, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid  Fragrance (Parfum), Octadecyl Di-t-butyl-4-hydroxhdrocinnamate.

Reviewed by Jimmy

After getting sunburned in St Barths last weekend (yes, even after applying copious amounts of sunscreen for a few days, I ran out and the hot sun mixed with perspiration, the water, the shirt-free lifestyle didn’t help) I’ve been a little more “aware” when I leave my apartment. Even going to the gym and back (the walk over is less than a song on my IPod) had me wondering if my face was going to burn off due to the extreme sun we had in the earlier part of the week. In the mornings, I generally apply an energizing cream before I go out but suddenly I was considering one with SPF.

The one that I found the best fit is Epicuren Man Recollect Sustaining Protectant. Epicuren is known for their competent sunscreens. In fact, the company’s fundamental science began two years ago when they were treating severely scarred burn victims. The line actually is based on their technology and very own Enzyme Vitamin Protein Complexes. They’re pretty big on organic ingredients to boot.

When I tried out the Recollect Sustaining Protectant (a mouthful, I know), it went on smooth and actually felt quite refreshing. It’s packed with antioxidants and chockfull of vitamins (a, e, b5, c). It also wasn’t greasy for a daily SPF (thanks to the low SPF content of 8). The sun protection is provided by bearberry, from which arbutin is extracted. This inhibits melanin precursors.

The only unusual thing was its scent. It was rather medicinal than something from the earth and after reviewing the ingredients, I think it’s the combination of the pure extracts with little chemicals/emollients that makes it so rich. It’s strong on the citrus-y side, and I would owe this to the lime extract and lemon extract (which is closest to the scent). The strong smell, however, after application, mitigates to a rather subtle citrus scent that’s a little more bearable.

Related posts:

Epicuren Discovery Sport Treat

Plant extracts that provide UV protection

Reviewed and recommended: Epicuren Discovery Milk Cleanser

Ingredients:

Purified water, aloe vera gel, starch, sorbitan oleate, tea-carbomer, panthenol, (provitamin b5) tocopheryl acetate, (vitamin e acetate), retinyl palmitate (vitamin a palmitate), ascorbyl palmitate (vitamin c palmitate), calendula extract, lime extract, grape seed extract, green tea extract, lemon extract, citris grandis (grapefruit) seed extract, arctostaphylos uva ursi (bearberry) leaf extract.

Reviewed by Kate

When I was five years old, my two sisters and I thought our grandfather was hilarious. Any time he started a sentence with “did I tell you kids the story about…..” we three munchkins dropped whatever we were doing and danced around his feet like hyperactive kangaroos, anticipating what was to come.  OF COURSE we had heard each story 1000 times before, that was precisely what made it so entertaining! In some cases we didn’t even understand the content OR the punch line, but that fact made no difference. To us, hearing his stories over and over again was pure entertainment largely because Gramps unconstrained laughter was impossible to resist. He would start his story softly enough with a few chuckles, then he would add in some snorting noises (which is big fun to watch when you are five years old) and end with his chubby face beat red, tears of laughter streaming from his eyes. The final crescendo came when we all SCREAMED out the punch line in unison. Then we would dance around the floor like idiots, slapping each other in the shoulder while repeating the punch line over and over, which made us laugh even harder. Fast forward 40 years, and this same “humor anticipation phenomenon” is what makes us all laugh while watching stupid plotless classic movies like Caddie Shack and Blazing Saddles for the 59th time.

It’s fun and entertaining to hear the same old story over and over again when you are five, but maybe not when you are 25 or 35 or 55. So as important as a good sun block might be, I understand that Truth In Aging readers just might want to hear about SOMETHING ELSE for a change. Therefore I promise that this will be my last posting for 2009 on physical sun blocks. But I just couldn’t resist  this one last recommendation…. Clinique City Block Sheer Face Protector is a great chemical lite sun block, and you might want to try it.

A physical sun block works differently from the more common “chemical” sun blocks, and there are some benefits and as always in life, some disadvantages. The advantage is that the physical sun block sits on top of skin like a giant reflecting sun bonnet, shading you from damaging rays, vs a chemical sun block which is designed to seep into your actual cells, and alter their propensity towards sun burn. The majority of “sun rashes” that people get are caused by a reaction to the chemicals in the sun block, not the sun… so the non-invasive PHYSICAL block is a safer alternative. Not foolproof, but safer. The downside is that the “oxides” in PHYSICAL sun blocks are absolutely going to give your skin some degree of chalkiness…. from the bright white of the life guards nose to the almost invisible of the Clinique City Block Sheer Face Protector. Finding the PHYSICAL sun block which has the right combination of protection for your specific skin type, and a color/tint that works for you might take a little trial and error. Some are shiny, some are matte, and within those categories are great varieties of scent, texture, and price.

To date I have tried almost 20 different types…. and have so far recommended only the highly pigmented Abella product (available in a range of skin tones) and the almost invisible Murad Oil Free sun block.  The third physical sun block which I am recommending today falls somewhere in the middle in terms of coverage and sheerness….. and it is Clinique City Block Sheer Face Protector.   It comes in a light and a medium tint, blends in quickly and nicely, could be worn underneath foundation or in place of foundation on the weekends, and is not too shiny.  The tint is sheer enough that you could wear it on your hands, neck and chest without looking like a goof, although for the price it is really not intended to be a body sun block.  The SPF 15 is not going to give you the deeper protection of the Abella SPF 30 product, but the trade-off is a significantly more sheer look. Even my husband could use the Clinique product (although I would certainly have to hide the girly-girl label while he applied it) without it looking oddly like makeup.

There are some great physical sun blocks on the market today that will provide you with excellent protection without subjecting your skin and body to yet even more chemicals.  The trick is in finding the one that works well for you….. and the three I have recommended in 2009 might be a good place to start.

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Reviewed and recommended: Abella Colorshade

A drumroll for Murad’s oil free sunblock

Clinique City Block Sheer Face Protector Active Ingredients: Titanium Dioxide, Zinc Oxide

Ingredients: Water (aqua purificata) purified, trioctyldodecyl citrate, butylene glycol, cyclomethicone, titianium dioxide, tricaprylin, steareth-2, silica, tricaprylyl citrate, behenoxydimethicone, zinc oxide, lecithin, sorbitan tristearate, stearic acid, dimethicone, alumina, ceteth-2, peg-40 stearate, octyldodecyl neopentanoate, dimethicone copolyol, sodium phosphate, tocopheryl acetate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, steareth-20, disodium edta, pantethine, polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleate, bisabolol, sodium stearate isopropyl titanium triisostearate, silver borosilicate, barium sulfate, xanthan gum, magnesium aluminum silicate, bht, iron oxides (ci 77491, ci 77492, ci 77499).

Reviewed by Jimmy

Back in the Caribbean, I was surprised how hot it was in May. Well, maybe not surprised, as I’m in the gorgeous island of Grenada… here the temperature stays a steady 80 degrees year-round but I didn’t know what to expect considering I haven’t been to the Caribbean outside of fall/winter. Grenada is so close to the equator that you can break out into a lovely sweat just sitting on your balcony, or do a fire dance on the hot sand. The sun is remarkably hot but I love it. What I don’t love? Sunburns. And who does? The pinching of skin, the strange color of grapefruit that pains when touched. Not to mention you surrender any time back in the sun as your skin literally burns.

This time around, for protection, I tried Murad Waterproof Sunblock SPF 30. Murad is a top, international brand known for its philanthropic ways, giving back to the community. Launched by Dr. Murad himself, the products are mostly concentrated on anti-aging treatments (he pioneered the use of alpha hydroxy acids in skincare products back in 1989) and is a leader of patents.

The sunblock comes in nice golden packaging with red strips. It’s classic; I like it.  What I like more than the packaging is the product itself. It’s not gooey or sloppy. It actually applied very nicely and quite smooth. It also had a nice, fresh, herbal/citrus-y fragrance, thanks to the oils included like grapefruit, rosewood, geranium, lavender and thyme.

I wanted to test the “waterproof” element. I’ve tried sunscreens that literally oil up the pool, stain the sunbeds and sweat off your body as soon as  you’re out. After thirty minutes of application, I went for a rather lengthy swim. When I got out, it was as if nothing was on my body. No dripping, smearing or melting. Success. In fact, the sunscreen continued to block the sun. Very impressive.

It’s marketed with pomegranate extract as a top ingredient. We all love pomegranate, which promotes skin regeneration and has calming qualities. So even if I baked in the sun for hours, the pomegranate was a “bonus” for protection. I was also impressed that it had rice amino acids, which has moisturizing qualities. There’s also grape seed extract: studies have shown it helps protect against ultraviolet damage.
Not bad. I like it, even if one tube is not enough for four days of this hot hot sun!

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What is it: pomegranate

Active Ingredients: Avobenzone 2.0%, Homosalate 6.5%, Octinoxate 7.5%, Octisalate 5.0%, Oxybenzone 4.0%

Other Ingredients: Water (Aqua), Butylene Glycol, Glyceryl Stearate, VP/Eicosene Copolymer, Sodium Dihydroxycetyl Phosphate, Dicaprylyl Maleate, Cocoglycerides, Cetyl Alcohol, Isostearic Acid, PEG-100 Stearate, Propylene Glycol, Punica Granatum Extract, Chitosan Ascorbate, Zinc Aspartate, Lysine Lauroyl Methionate, Rice Amino Acids, Stearyl Dimethicone, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Palmitoyl Hydroxypropyltrimonium Amylopectin/Glycerin Crosspolymer, Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Extract, Glycolipids, Sodium Hyaluronate, Silica, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Aminomethyl Propanol, Disodium EDTA, Melanin, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Butylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Isobutylparaben, Citrus Grandis (Grapefruit) Peel Oil, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Oil, Aniba Rosaeodora (Rosewood) Wood Oil, Geranium Maculatum Oil, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Thymus Vulgaris (Thyme) Oil