DMAE- Anti-ager or cell killer?
I was intrigued to find, when reviewing You Being Beautiful, that the authors (two doctors) warned off using the anti-aging cosmetic ingredient DMAE because it causes cells to die. Although I don't use anything with DMAE, the claim seemed worth verifying - if only to burst Dr Perricone's bubble. DMAE is one of his much-vaunted ingredients and I have always regarded him as a pretender to the throne of anti-aging king.
I have only found one clinical study that demonstrates that the chemical 2-dimethyl-amino-ethanol (dimethylaminoethanol), commonly listed in many anti-aging cosmetics as DMAE, may cause a seriously negative reaction in skin cells. However, the research does seem be thorough, peer reviewed and published in the British Journal of Dermatology.
DMAE has historically been used as an oral supplement to help improve mental alertness. It's found naturally in fish such as sardines and anchovies and has been shown in limited studies to boost brain function and mood when ingested. As a cosmetics ingredient, it has been claimed that DMAE can help reduce wrinkles by preventing cell deterioration and shoring up cell membranes. You will find it in products by Neutrogena and Dr Perricone's Solar Protection Face with DMAE (pictured). According to Dr. P's book, The Wrinkle Cure, DMAE can prevent cell deterioration when applied topically. His Web site, http://www.nvperriconemd.com/, claims that "introducing additional DMAE into our systems" is good way to maintain an anti-aging skin care regimen.
The research that turns this claim on its head was conducted by the Faculty of Medicine at Canada's Université Laval. Tests on human and rabbit skin cells showed a drastic and rapid swelling of fibroblasts, which maintain the connection between cells. Within a few hours after applying DMAE, cell division slowed and at times stopped completely. Twenty-four hours after applying the concentration of DMAE found in anti-wrinkle cosmetics, the fibroblast mortality rate reached over 25%.
Dr. Guillaume Morissette, who co-presented the recent tests on DMAE, suggests that the so-called anti-wrinkle effect may occur as a result of the actual damage suffered by the skin. When the cell becomes damaged, the skin thickens.
"From our point of view the cells are altered. They stop dividing, they stop secreting, and after...24 hours a certain proportion of them die," Dr. Francois Marceau of the Centre Hospitalier Universitaire de Quebec told Reuters Health.
On the other hand, I found one small study using subjective analysis of side-by-side tests that purports to demonstrate that DMAE is an anti-ager. I have also found a Brazilian study from 2009 (two years after the Canadian one mentioned above) that confirmed that DMAE increased dermal thickness and collagen fiber thickness. The study also noted hydrating effects and concluded (perhaps this refutes the Canadian study) that "mechanical properties were not significantly modified".
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Marta, You got me (mostly thinking and planning, but a modest beginning, as well) into DIY and, in the process, I've come across articles about DMAE. It seems one must be extremely aware how much they use (recommended not more than 1%) and what other ingredients it is mixed with. If uncertain, anyone attempting a DIY project including DMAE should contact a professional; such as Lotioncrafters. ~jk
Posted on December 9, 2008 at 5:30 am
I think the problem with the end of your article is that "anti-ager" is a completely vague term. Temporarily tightening the skin may count as an "anti-aging" effect, but this effect can co-exist with the cell damage discovered by the Laval research team. Short-term anti-aging effects may be bought at the price of long-term damage to the skin, which seems to be the case with DMAE.
Posted on December 9, 2008 at 5:53 am
What is wrong if DMAE kills cells. Don't you want skin cells to die and shed off thus getting new skin to replace quicker?
I wish someone could address this.
Posted on May 6, 2009 at 9:19 am
Well tman, that's partly right. I think that you want to cells to split off and make a new one before they die. And anyway, you need to be aware of the Hayflick Limit:
http://www.truthinaging.com/2007/11/exfoliation-is-regimen-overkill-possible.html
But I will do some more research on this.
Posted on May 6, 2009 at 10:49 am
I've been adding 1/8 tea. DMAE to my ionized water which has a PH of 5.5, and a small dab of Regenerist Day Cream in the red jar. I have noticably softer, thicker skin, especially on the neck and hands.
After reading this I am concerned!
Does anyone have any newer information?
Thanks!
Posted on September 17, 2009 at 1:36 am
Recent study on DMAE
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/20095140?itool=EntrezSystem2.PEntrez.Pubmed.Pubmed_ResultsPanel.Pubmed_RVDocSum&ordinalpos=1
Posted on February 9, 2010 at 7:11 am
All, I've been using Dr. Perricone's products with Alpha lipoic acid and DMAE for 3+ years. I don't know whether 3 years is considered to be long term, however I can say that they have made an extremely significant and sustained improvement in my skin. Since about 90 days after beginning use of his products, my skin has been called "flawless" on a regular basis by a relatively large number of people. This did not happen prior to use of the products. This is of course just an anecdote and is no substitute for clinical trials.
Posted on October 30, 2010 at 12:31 pm
Please let me know the cosmetics or product that has the dmae ingredient.
I would very much appreciate using it. I am sixty years old. Most people I meet up with think I am only fifty or younger.
I can see my skin changing, eventhough I have taken fantastic care, and wearing a sun shade.
Thanks,
Judy
Posted on February 9, 2011 at 11:17 am
So it's good stuff if properly used it seams. I hope so. It kind of sounds too good to be true.
Posted on April 13, 2013 at 7:31 pm