Sederma, the makers of power peptide Matrizyl 3000 and Renovage, recently came up with (about a year ago, I think) a new ingredient for 60-somethings. It is specifically aimed at fortifying and restructuring their thin and fragile skin. This seems to me like a good idea by a company that is likely to execute well. Why then, is the ingredient - called Essenskin - not appearing in potions for boomers?

So far, I have only found it in a neck cream by Isomers ($34.99) and Hydroxatone ($80). Both also have Sederma's signature Matrixyl 3000. Isomers gives barley a star billing, whereas the pricier Hyroxatone packs in a lot more botanicals. A slightly different approach is taken by Elysee, which favors treprenone, otherwise known as Renovage (Sederma must be doing a two for one special) rather than Matrixyl to complement the Essenface in its Youthspan cream ($59.95).

Essenskin is mostly calcium and essential amino acids (the full combo is pentylene glycol, polysorbate-20, 3-aminopropane sulfonic acid, calcium hydroxymethionine and hydroxyethylcellulose). Sederma claims it will reboost cell metabolism and protein synthesis, rebalance ion flow and recreate calcium gradient. There are results from a two month clinical study (conducted by Sederma, so not independently verified) on 29 women with an average of 60 and mature skin and sagging necklines using a cream with 2.5% concentration of Essenskin. The company claims skin density increased by 68%, firmness and elasticity by 80%.

If you can find it and you are 50 or 60-something with a growing temptation to buy turtle neck sweaters then a potion with Essenface could be worth trying it. If you do (or already have), please let us know how it works out.

Ingredients in Isomers

Water/Aqua, Polysorbate 60, Cetearyl Alcohol Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Hordeum Distichon (Barley) Extract, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate-20, 3-Aminopropane Sulfonic Acid, Hydroxymethionine Calcium Salt , Glycerin, Coco-Glucoside, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Aloe Barbadensis (Leaf) Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Urea, Phenoxyethanol, Tropolone, Caprylyl Glycol, Alcohol, Glaucine

Ingredients in Hydroxatone

Water (Aqua), Capric/Caprylic Triglycerides, C12 15 Alkyl Benzoate, Glycerin, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, Octadecenedioic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Ceteareth-20, Stearic Acid, Cetearyl Alcohol, Sorbitan Stearate, Pentylene Glycol, 2-Aminopropane Sulfonic Acid, Spilanthes Acmella Flower Extract (Spilanthes), Hydroxymethionine Calcium Salt, Sodium Hyaluronate, Panthenol, Acrylates/C10 30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Tocopherol Acetate (Vitamin E), Retinyl Palmitate (Vitamin A), Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C) (Vitamin C), Tetrasodium EDTA, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Triethanolamine, Polysorbate 20, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Propylene Glycol, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide 7, Sorbic Acid, Punica Granatum Fruit Extract (Pomegranate), Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract (Grape), Pinus Strobus Bark Extract (White Pine), Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract (Green Tea), Panax Ginseng Extract (Ginseng), Matricaria Flower Extract (Chamomilla Recutita), Algae (Seaweed) Extract, Arctostaphylos Uva Ursi (Bearberry) Leaf Extract (Bearberry), Echinacea Angustifolia (Coneflower) Extract (Coneflower), Glycyrrhiza Glabra Extract (Licorice)

Ingredients in Elysee

Water, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Glycerin, Coco-Glucoside, Caprylyl Glycol, Alcohol, Glaucine, Pentylene Glycol, Polysorbate-20, 3-Aminopropane Sulfonic Acid, Hydroxymethionine Calcium Salt, Hydroxyethylcellulose, Macrocystis Pyrifera Extract, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, PVP, Algae Extract, Pullulan, Astragalus Gummifer Gum, Teprenone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Thermus Thermophilus Ferment, Propylene Glycol, Carbomer, Methylparaben, Propylparaben, Triethanolamine.