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When I posted my review of ReLuma’s serum, I went out of my way to discourage anyone without wrinkles from buying it. The active ingredient is a complex of growth factors that were originally developed for wound healing. These things need something to repair and if you don’t have anything, you’d be disappointed with a perceived lack of results. It’s a rather good problem to have, but someone with good skin still needs to take preventative measures. What should you be looking for?
A good place to start is ingredients that I highlighted in a post for 30-somethings last year: astaxanthin (prevention of free radical damage), carnosine (an amino acid that extends the number of times cells turnover), teprenone (also extends cell life), and SNAP-8, a neuropeptide that inhibits wrinkles caused by facial expressions.
Antioxidants are the most important preventative weapons. They fight the unstable molecules that attack cells, targeting those that cause inflammation. You can get antioxidants from eating blueberries, pomegranates, goji, grapes and a host of other fruits and veggies (see our new superfoods section in Beauty 360). However, the skin is the last organ to receive ingested nutrients and so a helping hand from topical applications is definitely needed even if you have an impeccable diet.
Unlike growth factors, copper, AHAs or retinol that all work to reverse existing damage, antioxidants do their work ahead of time. Continuous use should help prevent cell degradation, protect cellular membranes, defend fibroblasts, and minimize photosensitivity.
You should be looking out for the antioxidant polyphenols that exist in superfruits like pomegranate or high tech free radical scavengers such as the new active lipochroman-6. There are a few other types of antioxidants including phenolproponoids (which contain ferulic acid), flavenoids found in berries and citrus fruit, and tannins such as resveratrol in grapes. They all work on different components of the skin, so formulators recommend potions that provide a potent blend of various antioxidants. One way to get a good dose of antioxidants is to use a regular face mask, such as Tilvee’s pomegranate and acai fruit powder mask.
I often find that 30-something skin is beginning to look a little dull and needs brightening and exfoliating. So judicious (perhaps only once or twice a week) use of a cream with alpha hydroxy acids or glycolic acid will be really helpful. Take a look at Kiss My Face’s budget–priced Peaches And Cream AHA moisturizer and La Vie Celeste’s lovely glycolic mask.
Talking of La Vie Celeste, just about any of this natural products’ line would be worth investing in, especially the cleanser. Also look for some of the newer products from Your Best Face – as always, they have cutting edge ingredients, but formulated for younger or less damaged skin. Some of them, including the Refresh eye cream and Antioxidants Concentrate can be sampled in a trial kit that has been exclusively packaged for Truth In Aging. For makeup and skincare, 30-somethings will like 100% Pure. The color cosmetics use fruit pigments and the 100% Pure Potent Mushroom Concentrate is a favorite of our regular reviewer, Kim.
January 30, 2013
by Wendy
Hi -
This thread has been so interesting and helpful - thanks so much to all for taking the time to write us, especially Noel. I am wondering if anyone does at home glycoliic peels at 30% - I just did a series of about 6, every two weeks, once a month at first. What do you think of this - maybe not necessary while using retinoids? I am currently using Avene Triacneal. I am going to check out the products you mentioned! Thanks again.
October 29, 2011
by Ana
Hi Noel,
Thank you so much for all the information, I am truly grateful for it. I in fact have Dr. Denese's Retinol Max and after I use it up I will try the Pete Roth Thomas Retinol that you recommend and say is more effective. My question pertains to the order in which you layer these products. After cleansing (and exfoliating if necessary) would you then put Dr. Denese's WrinkleRx Extreme pro peptide gel first followed by Peter Roth Thomas retinol fusion serum. I just read Dr. Denese's site and she suggests starting off with the product that contains water as the first/ or main ingredient. Do you agree with that? Kindly advice. Thanks so much.
June 27, 2011
by NoeyD77
Hey Talia-I forgot to address your question on Paula's Choice! I never tried any of her products, though they seem well formulated. My choice, though probably not to, though probably not the wisest is the fact that I just don't take Paula Begoun seriously and her reviews. How can a product reviewer be impartial when she is selling her own skin care line? Additionally, it seems as of late that her reviews of products are becoming more sarcastic and negative which ascertains her self-serving agenda. Plus she reviews products based on INDIVIDUAL ingredients, not as a whole, which biochemically speaking one shouldn't do. She has lessened the scientific data in her reviews and increased the sarcastically negative tone in her reviews.
A couple years back she was soooo anti-retinoil, now she is a complete advocate. She currently slams stem cell technology and peptides, but lets see if that changes when she brings out a peptide/stem cell serum! She rates ALL of her products with the highest regards!
If a product of hers landed on my lap I would indeed give it a whirl, but I just wouldn't purchase any.
June 27, 2011
by NoeyD77
Hey Talia! If you're still around I LOVE niacinamide! I rank that ingredient up there with Vitamin C! Using that with tretinoin and 10% glycolic acid, hon you really can't do much more topically for your skin! Thats a powerful regimen you have going on!
I as well use some form of RX retinoid, either Atralin/Refissa/Retin A/RAM/Tazorac. One thing though is that I switched from Nia24 to the fairly newly reformulated Strivectin. I heard that Nia24 bought them out, though I'm not certain about that. It contains 8% of Nia-114 which is there "version" of niacinamide, plus its less expensive since you can get value sets on QVC.
Regardless opf any other products I use, I will FOREVER use a RX retinoid of some sort (prob Atralin), a vitamin c serum, a niacinamide product, a glycolic pad of at least 10% glycolic aciud and and a physical sunscreen!
May 19, 2011
by Ann
Hi Talia, Your skin sounds amazing. Thanks for sharing. What skin type do you have? And also, would you mind sharing the brands you are using in terms of the alpha hydroxy peels you are doing along with 10% glycolic acid? Many thanks