They say it takes about 20 years for environmental damage (think sun and pollution) and lifestyle factors like smoking, stress and even smiling to show on your skin. Enter your 40s. Maybe the expression lines on your forehead and around your eyes no longer relax or freckles are beginning to morph into dark spots. This is the time to build a solid skin care routine with potent anti-agers that boost cell metabolism and stimulate fibroblast to lay down new collagen. Get it right and enjoy great skin for years to come.

Cleanse

At this age, dead cells are slower to slough off naturally and skin is more prone to inflammation. Not-so-fun fact: Studies show that all of the smog in the air causes inflammation in skin cells. The buildup of dead cells, dirt and toxins can contribute to dryness and dullness and even exacerbate existing spots and wrinkles. All the more reason to reach for a thorough cleanser at the end of the day.

Try one with alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and beta hydroxy acids (BHAs). AHAs, which include glycolic, citric, malic and lactic, are clinically-proven to loosen the glue-like substances that hold skin cells together, thus shedding the top layer of dull and damaged skin. BHAs not only exfoliate the upper layer of skin, but also penetrate deep through the epidermis to rid the dead skin cells and excess oil built up in the pores. The most common is salicylic acid. Skin 2 Skin has a cleanser that fits the bill: AB/HA Exfoliating Cleanser ($42 in the shop).

For a pore cleansing, exfoliating and antioxidant cleansing mask treatment there's LiftLab Detox Cleanser ($58 in the shop). Dr. Dennis Gross has a daily peel that is wonderfully effective and need not be used daily (a few times a week will suffice) and you can start with the Ultra Gentle version: Dr. Dennis Gross' Alpha Beta Ultra Gentle Daily Peel ($88 in the shop).

Day

In the morning, use a sunscreen to prevent further damage and to keep the damage that is already lurking under the skin from surfacing. Dr. Dennis Gross Dark Spot Sun Defense SPF 50 ($42 in the shop) contains a blend of melatonin along with three forms of Vitamin C and one form of Vitamin E, which fight free radical damage and protect the skin from oxidative stress.

If you haven't yet introduced a serum into your skincare, now is the time to do so. If you are seeing the first sign of wrinkles and sun damage, then go for preventative antioxidants with a serum such as Ao Skincare Peak Strength AM Serum-Shot ($85 in the shop), which has anti-aging copper peptides. If wrinkles are beginning to etch your skin, then pick a serum with repairing actves such as ExPürtise Effective Anti-Aging Face Serum ($120 in the shop). If you need additional hydration, then a great option is LaCrème Beauté Luxurious Organic Rose Facial Cream ($102 in the shop), which gives the skin a dewy glow and is a good primer as well.

Night

I was well into my 40s before I realized that my beauty routine needed to be a twice-a-day thing. A hyper-hydrating night cream makes all the difference. Topping off your evening fixers with a night cream that’s loaded with moisture-binding humectants (glycerin, hyaluronic acid), natural oils, antioxidants and amino acids will aid in the skin’s natural repair process and create a useful barrier for skin. We like Ao Skincare Raw Nurture PM Treatment ($85.95 in the shop), a restorative night treatment that hydrates and heals with natural botanicals like jojoba oil, manuka honey and bakuchiol. If you prefer a serum, try Your Best Face Restore Night Treatment Serum ($130 in the shop).

Treat

The changes in your skin may seem a little discouraging at this age. Pay close attention to these targeted treatments, and it will return to smooth and spotless in no time.  

Soften expression lines  

Expression lines are a sign of a life well lived. However, you may not want them permanently etched on your forehead or between your brows. A new class of highly advanced peptides, known as neuropeptides, work on our neurotransmitters to limit muscle movement and inhibit expression lines in a process known as exocytosis. ClarityRX Get Fit Serum ($105.75 in the shop) is formulated with no less than four neuropeptides, including Argireline, Syn-ake, pentapeptide-18 and SNAP-8. Simply Venom Day Cream ($59 in the shop) and Night Cream ($69 in the shop) use a combination of tripeptide actives to deliver wrinkle-relaxing results. 

Lighten dark spots

Dark skin pigmentation is accelerated by actions that increase the activity of melanocytes, such as hormonal imbalance, sun exposure and some medications. Vitamin C is a powerful ingredient you should add to your regimen if you haven’t already. It’s an antioxidant that neutralizes oxidative stress, accelerates the regeneration of cells and inhibits the enzyme tyrosinase, which is responsible for converting tyrosine into melanin. A very pure vit C formula is Transderma C ($175 in the shop), miraculously made without water. Lighten dark spots before they become really stubborn with a targeted treatment such as Your Best Face Brightening Concentrate ($35 in the shop).

Upgrade your eye cream

If you've become particularly concerned about your eye area — it is generally the first to show signs of aging — give your eye cream an extra boost with retinol and antioxidants. This combo will keep the area smooth and bright. Try Dr. Dennis Gross Ferulic & Retinol Eye Cream ($68 in the shop). For a hydrating eye cream, look at LaCrème Beauté Superior Cucumber Hydrating Eye Cream ($78 in the shop)

Mend broken blood vessels

If you’re starting to notice more redness, you’re not alone: It’s very common at this age. Prolonged exposure to the sun is the primary source of broken blood vessels on the face. Load up on sunscreen (we like Prana Reishi Mushroom Shield for skin that is prone to redness; $42 in the shop).